PROFILE 3.11.2002
What's up?:
Martin Mobråten
6 years
7c+ os, 8a flash, 8b+ rp
Martin took the gold medal in Nordic championships 2002, Helsinki.


Slouppi: Congratulations for the gold medal in Nordic Championships!
M.M.: Thanks!

Slouppi: Where do you live in Norway?
M.M.: The place is called Asker. It's about twenty minutes south from Oslo.

Slouppi: Are you a student or..?
M.M.: Not right now. Next year, I'm going to start studies.

Slouppi: Then, what are you going to be after ten years?
M.M.: Ten years... I have no idea, I don't know what to study yet.

Slouppi: So, lot's of climbing until that?
M.M.: Yes, basically lot's of climbing!

Slouppi: Have you planned to be a professional climber?
M.M.: No, I climb just for fun.

Slouppi: How is the climbing at your home district?
M.M.: It's OK. I mean for this type of climbing (NC in Finland) it's perfect, because it's like granit. It's not overhanging and the holds are small crimps. So, the finals was good for me!

Slouppi: Are there also steep cliffs at Oslo area?
M.M.: Not too many, there are about three crags that are about 10 to 30 degrees overhanging.

Slouppi: What did you like about the routes in this competition?
M.M.: I think they were very cruxy. There were many people falling in the same place, many hard moves and then some easier moves between them. And I think it was nice because you can't climb 'safe', you have to take chances. I'm not very good on taking chances, so for me it's good training to do catches and that kind of things.

Slouppi: You performed nicely on the finals route. You pulled nicely the long reach to the right side at mid height...
M.M.: Yeah, that was long! That's the type of climbing we have in Oslo. This route was hard but I was happy that the finals was there (on the gently overhanging wall).

Slouppi: How did you prepare for this competition?
M.M.: I've been climbing pretty many competitions this year, many world cups together with Peter, Stian and Fredrik

Slouppi: Did you train specifically?
M.M.: No, I haven't trained specifically but I noticed about four weeks ago that I was starting to feel better. I knew that I felt good at the moment.

Slouppi: Do you have any targets or do you set targets when you train?
M.M.: Sometimes I train for specific competition. This year there have been very many competitions. So it's hard for me to pick out one, and I have to take them as a part of my training. Next year, I'm going to pick like four competitions and then train for them and see how good I can be in those competitions. This year, I have been in all World Cup events but I have not been doing very well. The climbers there are really good and when I went to every competition, I couldn't train specifically for all the competitions.

Slouppi: So, it's hard to make a time-table for that kind of competition series?
M.M.: Yes! It's like you come home from competition and you have two weeks to the next competition. What to do? You also have to rest for the next competition. So it is difficult!

Slouppi: What do you prefer most, climbing outdoors or indoors?
M.M.: Outdoors of course!!! You met me in Spain. That's more fun! But I think competitions are also motivating in the winter. It's very funny to compete. It's like everyone likes to know how good they are.

Slouppi: About the grades, how long did it take to make your first 8a?
M.M.: I did not climb very much on the first two years. After two years, I did something like 6c on the spring and then in November, I did my first 8b. So, my first 8b came before 8a.

Slouppi: That's quite special. What is your hardest redpoint outside?
M.M.: 'Pump Fiction' 8b+ but I think it's maybe 8b.

Slouppi: What kind of climbing is it?
M.M.: The route is on the steepest cliff in Oslo, like 30 degrees overhanging. Long powerful reaches on underclings and sharp positive edges. Crimpy.

Slouppi: That sounds something like climbing in Finland...
M.M.: I like it!

Slouppi: What is your best on-sight?
M.M.: My best on-sight is 7c+ and I've flashed 8a.

Slouppi: What is your relation to bouldering?
M.M.: When I climb indoors, I only boulder. If I train endurance, I go circles. In Oslo, I climb in Tyrili and it's probably better place for bouldering. Mostly people boulder there and then I can just do circles 30 to 50 moves.

Slouppi: So you mostly train for longer routes?
M.M.: Yeah. I try to do that as much I can, maybe a bit too much...

Slouppi: About the Norvegian climbing association, do you get your trips paid to the competitions?
M.M.: Yes they pay. I mean we need to pay something but they pay almost everything. That's very nice! There is a new federation now, and they have started all over again with a new Norwegian team. They need time for a start but I think it's going to be very good.

Slouppi: What do you prefer the best place to climb?
M.M.: Ceüse, I think. I was there one month this summer. We met there! I think that was the best place to climb I've ever visited. I climbed there also with Peter (Bosma). He is so strong, and I learned a lot when climbing with him. That was good for me. And also I think Fontainebleau but I've only been there one time three years ago. I've never been any place where I had learned as much climbing as in ten days there. You have to be so precise all the time, you cannot make any mistakes or you just fall off.

Slouppi: What is your most memorable climbing experience?
M.M.: About three or four years ago, me and Stian Christophersen went to some trip with Robert Caspersen who was our coach that time. I think that's one of the best experiences I've had, learning so much from him. He's so good, you know. It was really fun to be with him.

Slouppi: That must have been motivating!?
M.M.: Yes! That was cool. Some of the best climbers have an attitude like 'I do not want to climb with you'. But he was very nice!

Slouppi: Thanks for the interview and have a safe trip back to home!
M.M.: Thanks. We'll see on crags!

- RH -