A brand new indoor bouldering facility will open in Turku hopefully at the end of August. According to their web pages there will be about 500 sqm floor area with 400 sqm of walls. Bouldertehdas is found by a local brilliant climber Olli-Petteri Manni, so we can expect well thought wall profiles. Nice!! You can follow the progression of the building project from the blog of Bouldertehdas.
La Chronique de la Haine Ordinaire
27.07.2010
Andy Gullsten has today climbed his first 8c sports route, 'La Chronique de la Haine Ordinaire' at sector Biographie, Céüse. The ascent required two goes, although Andy has tried the route last year. Source and details: Sakke's blog.
Also from the same source: Anton Johansson has about two weeks ago climbed 'Riverbed' (8b) at Magic Wood, Switzerland.
'Finska Skriket' fa by Saku
23.07.2010
Saku Korosuo has just opened a new hard line at Rösåsberget, northern Sweden. 'Finska Skriket' is an intensive sports climb on the steepest part of the cliff's and Saku suggests solid 8a for the grade. Congratulations!! Story, details (in Finnish) and nice photos at Saku's blog.
'Dark Sakai' (8b) fa by Andy
09.07.2010
Anthony Gullsten has opened a new hard boulder line at Magic Wood, Switzerland. 'Dark Sakai' is a direct version of 'In search of time lost' and situates at the Darkness cave. The suggested grade is 8b. In addition Andy made a quick, bit over an hour ascent to 'Deep Throat' (8b). Source and details at Sakari's blog.
Midsummer bouldering
06.07.2010
During his return trip from Norway, Nalle Hukkataival has repeated two hard lines 'Lada Miestä Kuljettaa assis' (8a+) at Louhua and 'Paddington' (8a+) at Jyväskylä. For the latter however, he suggests a downgrade to 8a. Story, photos and detailed ticklist at Nalle's blog.
On his Swiss trip Anthony Gullsten has climbed two more 8b's, 'Steppenwolf' and 'Riverbed'. Source: Andy's scorecard and the blog of Sakari McCregor.
Sami Romppainen has also had a productive midsummer. During the past weeks he has repeated at least two classics: 'Mahjongg' at Nunnanlahti (Juuka) and 'Marvin' at Keljonkangas, Jyväskylä area. Both these are rated 8a. Details and videos about the ascents at the pages of Työväenkiipeilijät.
Jani Lehtola has added a very nice video about his early June FA of 'Edge of Darkness' (8b) to his blog
'Smeagol' repeated
30.06.2010
Yesterday another testpiece at Tampere area,'Smeagol' (8a+), got it's first repeat by Ville Koskela. The line situates at Mäyrävuori (Kangasala) and was opened by Tomi Nytorp on 2004. With only about 8 meters height and very bouldery nature, Ville thinks it's hard to estimate the grade. Anyway the crux section is about 7c boulder and the ascent required 9 tries from Ville. "About one grade stiffer than 'Missä ote?'. A compromise grade 8a :)". Congratulations!
'Missä ote?' repeated by Ville
28.06.2010
Late, but inspiring news from early June: Ville Koskela has repeated 'Missä ote?', a stiff, slightly overhanging line at Viitapohja, Tampere area. The line was opened already 11 years ago by Sami Salonen and has remained unrepeated until Ville's effort. The original grade suggestion was 7c but 7c+/8a is probably more on the right range. A video about the ascent is available at Vimeo.
According to his scorecard at 8a.nu, Nalle Hukkataival has flashed 'Fokus' (Harbak) and 'Talib' (Vingsand), both 8a+. He also opened 'Rough Gem' (8b) at Lofoten. This was his other route of this grade after the FA of 'Diamanten' reported earlier.
Early summer ascents
19.06.2010
Matilda Nordman has been tripping in Lake Como area, Italy, where she has climbed 'Bulldog' (7c+), 'Sgoing' (7c) and 'Turbolenta' (7c), the last one on-sight! Jari Pöllänen has climbed 'Diabolic Feelings' (8a+) at Niemisel and Valtteri Ritamäki's 'Buu Klubben' (8a) at Siuntio. On May Esko Hautanen repeated 'Matador' (8a) at Falkberget. Nice work!
Update: Pasi Sjöman has also repeated 'Matador' on 20th June.
Andy's Magic Wood ticks
19.06.2010
According to Sakari McGregor's excellent blog Andy Gullsten has this far climbed several hard boulder lines in Magic Wood, Switzerland. These include 'One Summer in Paradise' (8b), 'Pura Vida' (8a+) and 'Massive Attack' (8a+). More ascents in Andy's scorecard.
Hattivatti repeated
10.06.2010
Aki Nurminen has yesterday repeated 'Hattivatti' (8a) at Myllis, a creation of Andy Gullsten few weeks back. Aki has had a good year as he has previously repeated several other 8a's such as 'Koopa', 'Hottentotti' and 'Zion train'.
Edge of Darkness
07.06.2010
Jani Lehtola has yesterday climbed one of the hardest projects at Louhua boulder. 'Edge of Darkness' weights in at around 8b.
The line seemed to be a serious challenge for Jani who is no stranger for hard lines and determined projecting. As the bad slopers and hooks are making the line very weather dependent, Jani was forced to shift to night sessions. Hence the name 'Edge of Darkness'. In total some 25 sessions plus some slimming was required before the mission was completed. Well done!
Rocinante by Sami
05.06.2010
After winning his category in the youth Finnish championships on April, Sami Koponen has been having nice rising trend on real rock. Today he repeated 'Rocinante' (7c+) at Vuorivaara. Nice! We'll probably hear about this 15 years old chap from Joensuu later on...
Diamanten
31.05.2010
The blog of Björn Pohl tells that Nalle Hukkataival has managed to send the Diamanten project at Vingsand, Trondheim area. The grade is estimated to be at 8b/8b+ range. In a case that this rumour is truthful, the line would be the hardest boulder in Norway. Check the Björn's blog for further information.
Perttu Ollila has spent some quality time at Costa Blanca on May. His target was to climb all the big adventurous lines at the back areas of Echo Valley and also to climb some hard limestone route with no fixed gear. This target culminated to the proud ascent of 'Mad Dog' (8a, E8 6c)!
Koopa by Ilari
23.05.2010
Ilari Kelloniemi has repeated 'Koopa' (8a), a strenuous dyno problem at Myllis, Espoo. Ilari has been having a strong spring as in addition to this and several other hard repeats, he has opened 'Nokipolvi sit-start' (8a+) at Valkeavuori, Turku. More details at Ilari's scorecard.
More Myllis action by Andy
21.05.2010
Yesterday the route crusher Andy Gullsten got again loose at Myllis and the results were more than decent... First he opened a new right starting variation to the 'Usual Suspect'. The new line is called 'Unusual Suspect' and the grade suggestion is 8a (foto). After this he repeated 'Super Mario' (8a+). Not bad!!
Andy crushes at Myllis
20.05.2010
Despite of hot weather, Andy Gullsten had QUITE a good day at Myllyjärvi yesterday.
First he opened a new line which starts from the starting holds of 'Pot smoker' and heads to up right topping out 'Endless hangover'. The creation was named 'Hattivatti' and Andy suggests 8a for the grade. Next he repeated 'Eskimo' (8a+), a 30 moves traverse that ends with 7c+ boulder 'Usual suspect ss' on his first try this season. Next in a row was 'Koopa' (8a) which he climbed on fifth try. 8a, 8a and 8a+ on a same session... whoa. Check the details at Andy's blog!
Andy had also a good First of May trip to Åland. He repeated lines such as 'Dodo sitstart' (8a+), 'Mongooli' (7c+/8a? flash), 'Hello Africa' (7c+) and was progressing well with 'Normipäivä' (8b) before a hold broke off at the top. The line may now be 8b+. Two weeks back he repeated 'Hottentotti ss' (8a+) also at Myllis.
Climbing limitations at Hyvinkää area
20.05.2010
SKIL informs that there will be climbing limitations at Hyvinkää area on June, due to Jukolan viesti, the biggest annual orienteering event in Finland. Climbing will be prohibited at Jaanankallio and Piilolampi on 18th to 20th June. A map of the competition area can be found here and the homepage of the event from here.
Matilda shakes the tree
03.05.2010
According to her scorecard, Matilda Nordman has climbed 'Shake My Tree' (7c+) at Nummi past weekend!
Bouldertehdas opens in Turku
