Steadily progressing Ilari Kelloniemi dispatched yesterday third repeat of 'The Globalist' (8b+) in Sipoo. The line was opened by Nalle Hukkataival on -09 and has seen repeats at least by Andy Gullsten and Anton Johansson. Congrats!! Couple of days earlier he climbed 'Jaakobin Paini' (8b+) in Nummi and 'One for Sorrow' (8a) in Sipoo. Earlier October he did 'Asterix' (8a) in Rokokallio. The man is in shape, so all the best for the Finnish Championships in Oulu on the coming weekend!
Another hard core powerhouse Jani Lehtola did a remarkable first ascent by opening 'Livstid assis' (8a+) two days back. The route situates in Rian, northern Sweden and looks outstandingly good in the topo image.
Other hard ascents: in Sipoo Markus Muinonen has climbed 'Spider Pig' (8a) and Kuutti Heikkilä 'One for Sorrow' (8a). In Myllis cliff Espoo Anssi Venho has climbed 'Hattivatti' (8a) and both Juha Paatinen and Kuutti Heikkilä 'Unusual Suspect' (8a). In Jyväskylä area Juho Kauppinen and Ilkka Unkuri climbed 'Forte Risoluto' (8a).
Late season's great friction conditions produced a hard first ascent in Reventeenvuori: Maija Eerola did the first ascent of 'Zen oppitunti' (= Zen lesson), which was an old slab project between Summerdays and Ristinolla at Koulusektori. Maija estimates the route to be appr. 7c range. Grade confirmations can be sent to reventeenvuori (at) gmail.com. Good work, Maija!
Two days back Sami Haapakoski opened a cutting edge boulder route in Myllis crack, Espoo. 'Armoton' (Ruthless) runs over a severely overhanging face left from 'Hottentotti' and as you can guess, it presents a line you easily consider unclimbable. Sami however didn't think so and for a grade he suggests stiff 8b+. Great work!!
Sami has been on the front end of Finnish climbing for many years. Couple of weeks back he opened 'One For a Sorrow' (8a) in Sipoo and on April last year 'Unbreakable' (8b) in Nurmijärvi.
Youth Nordic Championships in bouldering were competed in Stockholm past weekend. In the Juniors category Sami Koponen was the first after Saturday's qualifications and took silver in the finals. Congratulations! Detailed result with other Finnish placements on the pages of Svenska Klätterförbundet.
Yet a collection of some nice ascents from Aug - Sep range.
Anna Laitinen has been roadtripping. On August she's been hitting at least the sweetly overhanging faces of Voralpsee in Switzerland. Souvenirs include an ascent of 'Alaska Kid' (8a) and probably many more hard lines. Also on August Olli Antikainen logged impressive amounf of 8a level boulders from Swizz. These include 'Marakesch' and '3er traverse' in Sustenpass, 'Komilator' in Chironico and 'Octopussy' in Magic Wood.
In homeland both Ilari Kelloniemi and Sami Koponen have climbed 'Spider Pig' (8a) in Sipoo (video below). Sami also repeated Ville Koskela's 'Fail Compilation' (8a) in Kuopio area. Antti Virtavuo and Juha Paatinen have climbed 'Forte Risoluto' (8a) in Jyväskylä and Jere Hurtig 'Hottentotti' (8a) in Espoo. With rope, Pasi Sjöman and Ville Mustonen have climbed 'Bruce Lee variaatio' (8a+) in Ruhankallio.
Spider Pig 8A from Mick Juslén on Vimeo.
Among many hard boulders, Andy Gullsten has logged onsight of classic 'Total Brutal' (8b+) in Zillertal. This is probably the hardest ever onsight by a Finn this far. Congrats!!!
"Two remaining unclimbed quality crack lines got their fist ascents at Reventeenvuori. The new route development at the Klassikkoainesta -sector has been paused for a long time due to access strategy, but now it was a right time to open these lines. After intensive clean-up work, Miia and Toni Fohlin opened these routes in the memory of the late Antti Ahola and Juha Hirvonen (in beautiful autumn evening sun). Routes area located in the 'memorial corner'; the next crack to the left of route 'Noora' is now 'Antti'. It goes in the Finnish grade 6/6+ with good but a little tricky to place gear all the way up, sharing the same finish with 'Noora'. Sharing the same start as 'Joukahainen' a direct line goes up from the ground, right through the small roof’s right side and follows a crack system all the way up on the left side of 'Joukahainen'. This is 'Juha' and it goes appr. 6-/6 with exellent gear all the way up to the same anchor with 'Joukahainen'. In the old topo of SKIL the route is marked with number 17.
Go climb and take a quiet moment to our beloved friends in high places while sitting at the top. Enjoy!" -Toni
Andy Gullsten has logged 'Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3' (9a), which combines the boulder (parts 1+2, 8b+) with sporty three bolts upper section. The line was first climbed by a German Peter Würth on 2009.
Markus Lehtonen has also been sending hard in Niemisel. Last weekend he climbed 'När Lammen Tystnar' (8b+) and sent 'Jedi Mind Trix' (8b) on his third try. Brilliant!!
No news from homeland but starting from the beloved western neighbour, Jari Pöllänen climbed yesterday 'Jedi Mind Trix' (8b) in Niemisel. Couple of weeks earlier Miku Kyrklund did 'Diablo' (8a) at the same spot. Andy Gullsten who has been on a road trip to Switzerland, did 2nd go ascent of 'Euporie' (8b+) in Voralpsee and several hard boulders in Sustenpass, including 'Sputnik' and 'Le Reve de Faire' (both 8b). On the other side of the globe Kata Rahikainen and Pasi Sjöman did 'Eye of the Tiger' (29, 8a). This awesome looking line situates in Muline, Grampians area, Australia.
UPDATE 19.8.: Andy climbed yesterday 'Practice of the Wild' (8c) in Magic Wood!
In the middle of hot July the access hardmen Toni Fohlin and Teemu Ojala and the access hardwoman Miia Fohlin stroke again at Olhava. This time the main efforts were planned to be carried out in the so called “old end”, that is the far left sectors (1&2). The idea was to spread the climbing pressure during busy days to the other good sectors than only the “Laatta” and to have more easily accessible sectors without boats.
* Stradarotta sector and sector 1 are now connected with similar structures that can be found under Laatta
* Ikaros pillar’s start from the water/wetland is now covered with a platform
* Steroidi route’s start and 2nd pitch is re-cleaned (1st pitch’s inside corner still waits for brushing). There is also a new double bolt mid belay anchor. This underrated classic is a superb route, go and tick it!
* A new rappel line, accessible with a single rope (60m), straight down from top of the Ikaros pillar (2 rappels: 15m+30m) This is the walk-in access point to these sectors, the path from main sectors leads straightforward to top of the, easily recognizable top of Ikaros-pillar. Climb out.
* Now there are top anchors on top of Teacher and of Rolling Stones pillars
* Fallen down trees and other bush-mess cleaned from old routes in the left end sectors of the cliff
And as a big bonus Miia cleaned a pile of human shit… Yes, you got it right. From behind the “Kaari-flake”, at the tent site. For somebody the distance to the toilet is obviously too much… So sad.
The team got excellent help from visiting climbers in carrying the heavy wood material to the construction site, big thanks for that!
While climbing at Olhava, please, respect the rules (visible at the big info tables near the toilet) and behave! For the Finnish climbing community Olhava is an irreplaceable crag!
Toni, Teemu and Miia
PS. As a warm-up, Teemu did a second round re-re-clean-up mission of ”Sammalränni” which is getting now very popular and why not! -40m of sustained moderate corner climbing with great rock all the way. Btw. There as well is a new double bolt belay/rappel station.
PPS. After the work session, properly warmed up in middays hottest hours Teemu decided to give “Eklipsi” an redpoint attempt which became eventually one of the best fights that the belayer has ever seen. This time however the wall was tougher than the rock-fighter but it did not matter as Teemu got so nice battle scars that it was worth it (see the picture)!
Two Finnish climbers, Juha Hirvonen and Antti Ahola died yesterday in a tragic accident on a glacier of the western slopes of Aiguille de Blaitière, France. Both were motivated, talented, positive and friendly characters and it feels heart-breakingly stopping and sad that these lifes were taken much too early. Most sincere condolences to the families and the loved ones. Warm memories will remain. -rh-
Andy Gullsten opened yesterday an old project in Mustavuori. 'Post Orgasmic Depression'' starts with the steep middle groove and follows sloping crack to the left and up. The line has been bolted by Tatu Autio. The initial grade suggestion is whopping 8c. Congrats!
Starting with rope, couple from earlier spring and June: Roosa Huhtikorpi climbed 'La Sombra del Viendo' (8a) and also did couple of hardish on-sights including 'Festa Fotre' (7c) in Margalef, Spain. Markus Lehtonen climbed 'BabababaGurgur' (8a+) in Haukkamäki, Salo area and did quick work with 'One Minute Silence' (8a) in
Haukkavuori, Ruokolahti. Sauli Kiema climbed 'Wild Side' (8a) also in Haukkavuori. Timo Toivonen has climbed 'Texas Ranger' (8a+) in Ruhankallio, Tervakoski. Valtteri Pulkkinen did 'La sombra del viento' (8a) in Margalef and week back 'La Cara que no Miente' (8a+) Siurana 2nd go. Sami Koponen who moved to capital area has started to fill his Nummi tick list. This far he's dispatched at least 'Adlon' and 'Nummisuutari' (8a). Samuel Hammer has climbed 'Adlon' and 'Tornado direct' (8b) in Nummi giving personal suggestion of 8b+ for the present version with broke hold. Couple of days ago Pamu also did 'Amen break' (8b) in Mustavuori, Mäntyharju.
On boulders Ilari Kelloniemi climbed world class list of hard lines in Switzerland. The hardest include 'The Riverbed', 'Steppenwolf', 'Deep Throat' and 'Dark Sakai' all 8b. Juha Olli climbed 'Kukkoritari' (8a) in Huhtanen, Imatra, and Kuutti Huhtikorpi 'Painajainen assis' (8a) in Killeri, Tampere area. Samuel Hammer's rampage to Lökkiö resulted ascents of 'Korben Dallas' and 'Localist' (8a) among others. Sami Romppainen has opened new fantastic looking line 'The Gentle Art of Making Enemies' (8a) in Varkaus area. He also climbed 'Wicked and Weird' (8a+) in Lökkiö couple of days ago. Anssi Vehno climbed rarely repeated 'Senorita' (8a) in Vaasa. Maybe the nominee for the most hilarious fist ascent goes Andy Gullstens recent 'accidental' send of 'Kreskiano sit start' (8a) in
Hurissalo a week back. The man clearly does not know his powers... Last minute logs in 27Crags show that Axel Lindfors has climbed 'Hottentotti' (8a) in Myllis. UPDATE: Let's add 'Localist' (8a) by Sami Koponen and 'Wicked and Weird' (8a+) by Samuel Hammer from this afternoon :-)
Nalle Hukkataival and Tomi Nytorp joined their forces and climbed 'Silbergeier' (8b/8b+) in Rätikon, Swiss alps. This is one of the hardest multipitch routes in the world offering 6 pitches of vertical and super technical climbing. The route was opened by Beat and Conny Kammerlander on 1993 and has seen only a handful of repeats. What makes this even more impressive, the route is first ever multipitch for Nalle!
Detailed info about 'Silbergeier' here.
During the weekend Andy Gullsten had probably the best ever on-sight sessions seen in Finland! In Haukkavuori, Rautjärvi area, he climbed following routes ALL on-sight: 'Kultakanta' (8a+), 'Wild Side' (8a), 'One Minute Silence' (8a), 'Kultakuume' (7c+, for which he suggests 8a), 'Veri Vetää Itään' (7c+) and 'Peruslager' (7b+). Whoa!!!
The great pioneer of Finnish climbing, Matti A. Jokinen has passed away.
I knew Matti as an inspiring and diverse character who maintained his passion for climbing until the very end. His attitude convinced me and probably countless of other fellow climbers that climbing (despite of those occasional high gravity days) could be a life long journey and an unwaning joy. -rh-
This spring has offered good bouldering weather all over the Southern Finland. Routes have been repeated and personal level pushed by many climbers.
Two weeks back Samuel Hammer climbed 'One-Up' (8b) and yesterday 'Syyshämärä assis' (8b) with new beta. He has also climbed 'Totoro', 'Millyways' and 'Optical Illusion', all (8a). On April he did well with rope also by on-sighting 'La Mosca' (8a) in Montsant, Spain. Ilari Kelloniemi who has been on beast mode on all the spring, flahed yesterday 'Jack's broken heart' (8a+) in Magic Wood, Switzerland. Couple of weeks back Sauli Kiema repeated 'Jaakobin Paini' (8b+) in Nummi. Sami Koponen has been sending literally everything he touches all over Southern Finland, the hardest including 'Totoro', 'Hottentotti', 'Gluteus Maximus' and 'Paddington', all 8a. Add here sports climbs 'Buu Klubben' (8a) and first repeat of '
Hyper Mario' (7c+). Olli-Pekka Saxell has done '7 veljestä' (8a/+). Pasi 'Sjömonster' Sjöman has done heap of hard boulders including 'Optical Illusion', 'Totoro' and '7 Veljestä'. For the last he suggests personal grade of 7c as a piece has detached from the starting hold leaving a better hold to start with. Anssi Venho has climbed 'Korben Dallas' and 'Kellarijengi', both 8a. Anssi Laatikainen and Juha Paatinen climbed 'Localist' (8a) in Lökkiö. Anssi Kankkunen and Ville Mustonen did 'Unusual Suspect' (8a) and Ilkka Unkuri 'Paddington' (8a).
Italian powerhouse Niky Ceria has been on a two week trip to Åland (Ahvenanmaa). According to his fb-page 'Normipäivä' (8B) got it's first ascent after a hold broke and he also opened a new fantastic looking line 'Nitro' (8B) in Kasviken. Probably a story coming shortly to his blog.
UPDATES: Other hard repeats include 'Living the Dream' (8b+) and 'Dodo' (8a+)! Video below.
Bouldering in Åland (Fin) from niky_ceria on Vimeo.
Anthony Gullsten took part in Melloblocco, a yearly bouldering event in Val di Mello and Val Masio, Italy. The event has been organized since 2004 and has become increasingly popular year by year. Among casual climbing there's a competition where the climbers try to climb as many of the named testpieces as possible. Andy placed the shared first position with 6 climbed problems in a very hard company. Check the details in the pages of Melloblocco. In video Andy sending one of the problems 'Il Cappone'.