No news from homeland but starting from the beloved western neighbour, Jari Pöllänen climbed yesterday 'Jedi Mind Trix' (8b) in Niemisel. Couple of weeks earlier Miku Kyrklund did 'Diablo' (8a) at the same spot. Andy Gullsten who has been on a road trip to Switzerland, did 2nd go ascent of 'Euporie' (8b+) in Voralpsee and several hard boulders in Sustenpass, including 'Sputnik' and 'Le Reve de Faire' (both 8b). On the other side of the globe Kata Rahikainen and Pasi Sjöman did 'Eye of the Tiger' (29, 8a). This awesome looking line situates in Muline, Grampians area, Australia.
UPDATE 19.8.: Andy climbed yesterday 'Practice of the Wild' (8c) in Magic Wood!
In the middle of hot July the access hardmen Toni Fohlin and Teemu Ojala and the access hardwoman Miia Fohlin stroke again at Olhava. This time the main efforts were planned to be carried out in the so called “old end”, that is the far left sectors (1&2). The idea was to spread the climbing pressure during busy days to the other good sectors than only the “Laatta” and to have more easily accessible sectors without boats.
* Stradarotta sector and sector 1 are now connected with similar structures that can be found under Laatta
* Ikaros pillar’s start from the water/wetland is now covered with a platform
* Steroidi route’s start and 2nd pitch is re-cleaned (1st pitch’s inside corner still waits for brushing). There is also a new double bolt mid belay anchor. This underrated classic is a superb route, go and tick it!
* A new rappel line, accessible with a single rope (60m), straight down from top of the Ikaros pillar (2 rappels: 15m+30m) This is the walk-in access point to these sectors, the path from main sectors leads straightforward to top of the, easily recognizable top of Ikaros-pillar. Climb out.
* Now there are top anchors on top of Teacher and of Rolling Stones pillars
* Fallen down trees and other bush-mess cleaned from old routes in the left end sectors of the cliff
And as a big bonus Miia cleaned a pile of human shit… Yes, you got it right. From behind the “Kaari-flake”, at the tent site. For somebody the distance to the toilet is obviously too much… So sad.
The team got excellent help from visiting climbers in carrying the heavy wood material to the construction site, big thanks for that!
While climbing at Olhava, please, respect the rules (visible at the big info tables near the toilet) and behave! For the Finnish climbing community Olhava is an irreplaceable crag!
Toni, Teemu and Miia
PS. As a warm-up, Teemu did a second round re-re-clean-up mission of ”Sammalränni” which is getting now very popular and why not! -40m of sustained moderate corner climbing with great rock all the way. Btw. There as well is a new double bolt belay/rappel station.
PPS. After the work session, properly warmed up in middays hottest hours Teemu decided to give “Eklipsi” an redpoint attempt which became eventually one of the best fights that the belayer has ever seen. This time however the wall was tougher than the rock-fighter but it did not matter as Teemu got so nice battle scars that it was worth it (see the picture)!
Two Finnish climbers, Juha Hirvonen and Antti Ahola died yesterday in a tragic accident on a glacier of the western slopes of Aiguille de Blaitière, France. Both were motivated, talented, positive and friendly characters and it feels heart-breakingly stopping and sad that these lifes were taken much too early. Most sincere condolences to the families and the loved ones. Warm memories will remain. -rh-
Andy Gullsten opened yesterday an old project in Mustavuori. 'Post Orgasmic Depression'' starts with the steep middle groove and follows sloping crack to the left and up. The line has been bolted by Tatu Autio. The initial grade suggestion is whopping 8c. Congrats!
Starting with rope, couple from earlier spring and June: Roosa Huhtikorpi climbed 'La Sombra del Viendo' (8a) and also did couple of hardish on-sights including 'Festa Fotre' (7c) in Margalef, Spain. Markus Lehtonen climbed 'BabababaGurgur' (8a+) in Haukkamäki, Salo area and did quick work with 'One Minute Silence' (8a) in
Haukkavuori, Ruokolahti. Sauli Kiema climbed 'Wild Side' (8a) also in Haukkavuori. Timo Toivonen has climbed 'Texas Ranger' (8a+) in Ruhankallio, Tervakoski. Valtteri Pulkkinen did 'La sombra del viento' (8a) in Margalef and week back 'La Cara que no Miente' (8a+) Siurana 2nd go. Sami Koponen who moved to capital area has started to fill his Nummi tick list. This far he's dispatched at least 'Adlon' and 'Nummisuutari' (8a). Samuel Hammer has climbed 'Adlon' and 'Tornado direct' (8b) in Nummi giving personal suggestion of 8b+ for the present version with broke hold. Couple of days ago Pamu also did 'Amen break' (8b) in Mustavuori, Mäntyharju.
On boulders Ilari Kelloniemi climbed world class list of hard lines in Switzerland. The hardest include 'The Riverbed', 'Steppenwolf', 'Deep Throat' and 'Dark Sakai' all 8b. Juha Olli climbed 'Kukkoritari' (8a) in Huhtanen, Imatra, and Kuutti Huhtikorpi 'Painajainen assis' (8a) in Killeri, Tampere area. Samuel Hammer's rampage to Lökkiö resulted ascents of 'Korben Dallas' and 'Localist' (8a) among others. Sami Romppainen has opened new fantastic looking line 'The Gentle Art of Making Enemies' (8a) in Varkaus area. He also climbed 'Wicked and Weird' (8a+) in Lökkiö couple of days ago. Anssi Vehno climbed rarely repeated 'Senorita' (8a) in Vaasa. Maybe the nominee for the most hilarious fist ascent goes Andy Gullstens recent 'accidental' send of 'Kreskiano sit start' (8a) in
Hurissalo a week back. The man clearly does not know his powers... Last minute logs in 27Crags show that Axel Lindfors has climbed 'Hottentotti' (8a) in Myllis. UPDATE: Let's add 'Localist' (8a) by Sami Koponen and 'Wicked and Weird' (8a+) by Samuel Hammer from this afternoon :-)
Nalle Hukkataival and Tomi Nytorp joined their forces and climbed 'Silbergeier' (8b/8b+) in Rätikon, Swiss alps. This is one of the hardest multipitch routes in the world offering 6 pitches of vertical and super technical climbing. The route was opened by Beat and Conny Kammerlander on 1993 and has seen only a handful of repeats. What makes this even more impressive, the route is first ever multipitch for Nalle!
Detailed info about 'Silbergeier' here.
During the weekend Andy Gullsten had probably the best ever on-sight sessions seen in Finland! In Haukkavuori, Rautjärvi area, he climbed following routes ALL on-sight: 'Kultakanta' (8a+), 'Wild Side' (8a), 'One Minute Silence' (8a), 'Kultakuume' (7c+, for which he suggests 8a), 'Veri Vetää Itään' (7c+) and 'Peruslager' (7b+). Whoa!!!
The great pioneer of Finnish climbing, Matti A. Jokinen has passed away.
I knew Matti as an inspiring and diverse character who maintained his passion for climbing until the very end. His attitude convinced me and probably countless of other fellow climbers that climbing (despite of those occasional high gravity days) could be a life long journey and an unwaning joy. -rh-
This spring has offered good bouldering weather all over the Southern Finland. Routes have been repeated and personal level pushed by many climbers.
Two weeks back Samuel Hammer climbed 'One-Up' (8b) and yesterday 'Syyshämärä assis' (8b) with new beta. He has also climbed 'Totoro', 'Millyways' and 'Optical Illusion', all (8a). On April he did well with rope also by on-sighting 'La Mosca' (8a) in Montsant, Spain. Ilari Kelloniemi who has been on beast mode on all the spring, flahed yesterday 'Jack's broken heart' (8a+) in Magic Wood, Switzerland. Couple of weeks back Sauli Kiema repeated 'Jaakobin Paini' (8b+) in Nummi. Sami Koponen has been sending literally everything he touches all over Southern Finland, the hardest including 'Totoro', 'Hottentotti', 'Gluteus Maximus' and 'Paddington', all 8a. Add here sports climbs 'Buu Klubben' (8a) and first repeat of '
Hyper Mario' (7c+). Olli-Pekka Saxell has done '7 veljestä' (8a/+). Pasi 'Sjömonster' Sjöman has done heap of hard boulders including 'Optical Illusion', 'Totoro' and '7 Veljestä'. For the last he suggests personal grade of 7c as a piece has detached from the starting hold leaving a better hold to start with. Anssi Venho has climbed 'Korben Dallas' and 'Kellarijengi', both 8a. Anssi Laatikainen and Juha Paatinen climbed 'Localist' (8a) in Lökkiö. Anssi Kankkunen and Ville Mustonen did 'Unusual Suspect' (8a) and Ilkka Unkuri 'Paddington' (8a).
Italian powerhouse Niky Ceria has been on a two week trip to Åland (Ahvenanmaa). According to his fb-page 'Normipäivä' (8B) got it's first ascent after a hold broke and he also opened a new fantastic looking line 'Nitro' (8B) in Kasviken. Probably a story coming shortly to his blog.
UPDATES: Other hard repeats include 'Living the Dream' (8b+) and 'Dodo' (8a+)! Video below.
Bouldering in Åland (Fin) from niky_ceria on Vimeo.
Anthony Gullsten took part in Melloblocco, a yearly bouldering event in Val di Mello and Val Masio, Italy. The event has been organized since 2004 and has become increasingly popular year by year. Among casual climbing there's a competition where the climbers try to climb as many of the named testpieces as possible. Andy placed the shared first position with 6 climbed problems in a very hard company. Check the details in the pages of Melloblocco. In video Andy sending one of the problems 'Il Cappone'.
Ilari Kelloniemi has been having super strong spring. Yesterday he managed to climb 'Hypergravity' (8b) in Sipoo in a session. This was the first ascent after a hold breakage. He also flashed 'Isildur assis' (7c+). A week back Ilari hit Lökkiö area, where he did 'Wicked and Weird' (8a+) 3rd go, 'Localist' (8a), 'Korben Dallas' (8a) 2nd go and flashed 'Molester' (7c+).
Despite of warm weather, Andy Gullsten has climbed 'Jungle Speed' (9a) in one session! The route situates in sector La Capella, Siurana. Couple of days earlier he flashed 'Cronica' (8b) in sector L'Olla.
Andy has been on the road now for about a month. On the way to south he has stopped in
Fontainebleau where he did lines such as 'La Théorie des Jeux' (8b) and 'Big Dragon' (8a+). In Switzerland he did 'Heritage' (8b+) and a proper heap of 8b's such as 'No mistery after break', 'Schule des Lebens after break', 'General Disarray', 'Santoku', 'Kings of sonlerto' and 'The crack line'. Impressive indeed!
Long-term routesetter Sami Romppainen has opened probably the hardest boulder line in Savo. 'Kovasikajuttu' starts with about 10 reachy compression moves on a 40-50 degrees overhang and follows an easy crack of about 4 meters to the top. All in all there are over 20 moves from start to the top of the 8 meters high boulder. The end part of the route goes between two stones over a ravine so falling is not an option here. Sami feels that the grade is somewhere at 8a/8a+ range and he's not hesitant to say that the line is among the finest in Finland at this grade level. By knowing Sami's eye for quality lines and by looking the photos this is easy to agree with!
Anna Laitinen and Samuel Hammer have been having a good start for their trip to Spanish sports crags. On the first day they both did 'Memorias de una sepia' (8a) in sector Siuranella, Siurana. The route was flashed by Samuel. Today Anna sent 'Ramadan' (8b) in a session! Probably more hard sends to come...
Jari Koski has opened a new great sports climb in Elimäki area. 'Omat Säännöt' (own rules) situates in Ytmäki and offers > 10 meters of physical and technical climbing on slightly overhanging wall. Initial suggestion for the grade is 8a which probably isn't far from the truth. This is Jari's second testpiece in the area after excellent 'Half Century' (8a) in Rotkokallio. His creation 'Vanha Soturi' (7c+/8a range) from last summer is still waiting for the first repeat. The line situates in Askola, north from Porvoo.
Katariina Rahikainen has been having very productive climbing days in Spain. Yesterday she became probably the first Finnish woman to flash 8th grade by doing 'Entre dos Caminos' (8a)in Chulilla. She also did 'La Quebranta' (7c+) on 2nd go. Other good climbs from the past days include onsights of 'Super Zeb' (7c) also in Chulilla, and 'Scala Dei' (7c) in Montsant. Nice!!!
To every climbers delight, season has started earlier than expected (although, for some it never really ended)! Season's first hard FA was done by Andy Gullsten, who opened a sit start to 'Fatman' establishing 'Fat chicks can't jump!' (8a+) in Hilatien kattokivi, Kirkkonummi. Abroad Anton Johansson did 'The Great Shark Hunt' (8b) in Chironico third go. Jani Lehtola has climbed ultra-classic 'Karma' (8a+) in Cuisinière, Fontainebleau and Sauli Kiema 'Kirk Windstein' (8a+) and 'Miss Schweitz' (8a) in Cresciano.
Nalle Hukkataival has this evening sent 'Gioia' (8c+), one of the most iconic and extreme testpieces in the world of bouldering! The line situates in Varazze, Italy, and was opened by Christian Core on 2008. This far it has seen only one repeat by Adam Ondra on 2011. Hopefully a video to come. Madly inspiring! Congrats!!!
The competition took place today and thaks to a smooth and high quality video streaming, everyone could enjoy the event even from a home sofa. Arrangements by Voema team and routes by Tomi Nytorp seemed to be top-notch!
Female podium: 1. Roosa Huhtikorpi (4/4 flashed!), 2. Katariina Haime, 3. Anitra Taskinen. Male podium: 1. Anthony Gullsten (again, 4/4 flashed), 2. Ilari Kelloniemi, 3. Sami Koponen. Congratulations! Detailed results from the finals here and from qualifications here. The results include also senior male and female categories.