Tomi Nytorp has returned from a month long climbing trip to France. Among multi-pitch climbs in Verdon and La Jonte, he visited a small sports cliff at Vallee du Giffre, where he managed to on-sight 'Gare au Grand Gourou' (8a+). This was the first on-sight of this level to Tomi and probably to a Finnish climber in general. Congratulations!
The end of the summer has been slow but some ascents to mention: Pasi Penttinen has made probably the first repeat of 'Kivifetissi' (8a+) at Haukkavuori and Martin Nugent repeated 'Nummisuutari' (8a/+?) at Nummi. On yesterday Esko Hautanen repeated 'Pavarotti' (8a) at Jynkkä, Kuopio. On the boulder side, Aki Nurminen has repeated 'Unusual Suspect' (8a) at Myllis, Espoo.
Nummi ascents by Andy
21.08.2010
Andy Gullsten has yesterday made a rapid 3rd go ascent to 'Sulttaani' (8a+) at Nummi. About a week ago he repeated 'Sheriffi' (8a), another Nummi testpiece.
'Transgressor' by Perttu
18.08.2010
A free translation of Perttu's description about his recent hard ascent:
"On the first of August I climbed a major project of mine at Sauvo. 'Transgressor' is not an actual crack line, but it follows a clear rock formation on the steep main face of Kattilamäki until to the top at 25 meters height. It starts aggressively from a large pedestal. From here on the moves are manageable, but especially on the lower section they have to be freezed for placing solid gear. Although the placements get easier on the upper part, the moves do not.
It may tell something about the nature of 'Transgressor' that one belayer refused to belay me when he saw the line. Another belayer refused to continue belaying after two lead falls. Fortunately I have brave belayers! Making a clean ascent consumed so much of my resources that finally at the top I had 'feelings of nine'. One of the most beloved of my trad ascents."
- Perttu Ollila -
Finnish grade 9 corresponds roughly to about 8a French grade. Big congrats to Perttu!
Roped action
12.08.2010
Andy Gullsten has updated his scorecard with several hard ascents at Céüse. These include redpoint of 'Dures Limites' (8c), flash ascents to 'Encore' and 'Le Poinconneur des Lilas' (both 8a+) and several 8a's.
Saku Korosuo has climbed 'Eventyrblanding' (8a) at Flatanger, Norway. Nice story and photos at Saku's blog.
'Bah Bah Black Sheep' (8c+) by Andy
05.08.2010
From the trusty blog of Sakari McGregor: "Andy Gullsten has climbed 'Bah Bah Black Sheep' (8c+) in Céüse".
The line situates at sector Biographie, and it was established by Dave Graham on 2002. This was probably the second 8c+ ascent by a Finn after Nalles success with 'Duele la realidad' at Oliana last January. Congratulations!!
Mestari Globulus
01.08.2010
"On Saturday, I managed to free one of the projects of Mustavuori at Mäntyharju. 'Mestari Globulus' situates on the cliff's main overhang, runs over a beautiful and very steep crack system ending to the left side of the mid height ledge. With 8 meters continuous overhang on 20 meters length, the line may actually be the steepest sports climb in Finland. Action can be described as intensive and technical with rather poor chalking opportunities. Super nice line in my opinion!
About the grade then... Considering the amount of effort, have to say that this route may be the hardest I've climbed so far. As I feel that it really is at least 2 grades harder than couple of the steepest 8a routes in Finland, I dare to propose 8b. Repeats will be the key to settle the real level.
The process of getting convinced about do-ability, figuring out the moves and sequences, and finally succeeding with the ascent has been a pleasure and a nice learning opportunity. Thanks also to my belay b*tch Johannes Puranen who btw made a full-trad ascent to 'Komiat Pärjää Aina' recently at Mustavuori!"
- Rami Haakana -
Matilda climbed 'Habahuba'
30.07.2010
Matilda Nordman has repeated 'Habahuba', a hard 7c+ at Piruntädinkallio, Sauvo. The route was opened by Jouni Nordman on July 2009.
Bouldertehdas opens in Turku
29.07.2010
A brand new indoor bouldering facility will open in Turku hopefully at the end of August. According to their web pages there will be about 500 sqm floor area with 400 sqm of walls. Bouldertehdas is found by a local brilliant climber Olli-Petteri Manni, so we can expect well thought wall profiles. Nice!! You can follow the progression of the building project from the blog of Bouldertehdas.
La Chronique de la Haine Ordinaire
27.07.2010
Andy Gullsten has today climbed his first 8c sports route, 'La Chronique de la Haine Ordinaire' at sector Biographie, Céüse. The ascent required two goes, although Andy has tried the route last year. Source and details: Sakke's blog.
Also from the same source: Anton Johansson has about two weeks ago climbed 'Riverbed' (8b) at Magic Wood, Switzerland.
'Finska Skriket' fa by Saku
23.07.2010
Saku Korosuo has just opened a new hard line at Rösåsberget, northern Sweden. 'Finska Skriket' is an intensive sports climb on the steepest part of the cliff's and Saku suggests solid 8a for the grade. Congratulations!! Story, details (in Finnish) and nice photos at Saku's blog.
'Dark Sakai' (8b) fa by Andy
09.07.2010
Anthony Gullsten has opened a new hard boulder line at Magic Wood, Switzerland. 'Dark Sakai' is a direct version of 'In search of time lost' and situates at the Darkness cave. The suggested grade is 8b. In addition Andy made a quick, bit over an hour ascent to 'Deep Throat' (8b). Source and details at Sakari's blog.
Midsummer bouldering
06.07.2010
During his return trip from Norway, Nalle Hukkataival has repeated two hard lines 'Lada Miestä Kuljettaa assis' (8a+) at Louhua and 'Paddington' (8a+) at Jyväskylä. For the latter however, he suggests a downgrade to 8a. Story, photos and detailed ticklist at Nalle's blog.
On his Swiss trip Anthony Gullsten has climbed two more 8b's, 'Steppenwolf' and 'Riverbed'. Source: Andy's scorecard and the blog of Sakari McCregor.
Sami Romppainen has also had a productive midsummer. During the past weeks he has repeated at least two classics: 'Mahjongg' at Nunnanlahti (Juuka) and 'Marvin' at Keljonkangas, Jyväskylä area. Both these are rated 8a. Details and videos about the ascents at the pages of Työväenkiipeilijät.
Jani Lehtola has added a very nice video about his early June FA of 'Edge of Darkness' (8b) to his blog
'Smeagol' repeated
30.06.2010
Yesterday another testpiece at Tampere area,'Smeagol' (8a+), got it's first repeat by Ville Koskela. The line situates at Mäyrävuori (Kangasala) and was opened by Tomi Nytorp on 2004. With only about 8 meters height and very bouldery nature, Ville thinks it's hard to estimate the grade. Anyway the crux section is about 7c boulder and the ascent required 9 tries from Ville. "About one grade stiffer than 'Missä ote?'. A compromise grade 8a :)". Congratulations!
'Missä ote?' repeated by Ville
28.06.2010
Late, but inspiring news from early June: Ville Koskela has repeated 'Missä ote?', a stiff, slightly overhanging line at Viitapohja, Tampere area. The line was opened already 11 years ago by Sami Salonen and has remained unrepeated until Ville's effort. The original grade suggestion was 7c but 7c+/8a is probably more on the right range. A video about the ascent is available at Vimeo.
According to his scorecard at 8a.nu, Nalle Hukkataival has flashed 'Fokus' (Harbak) and 'Talib' (Vingsand), both 8a+. He also opened 'Rough Gem' (8b) at Lofoten. This was his other route of this grade after the FA of 'Diamanten' reported earlier.
Early summer ascents
19.06.2010
Matilda Nordman has been tripping in Lake Como area, Italy, where she has climbed 'Bulldog' (7c+), 'Sgoing' (7c) and 'Turbolenta' (7c), the last one on-sight! Jari Pöllänen has climbed 'Diabolic Feelings' (8a+) at Niemisel and Valtteri Ritamäki's 'Buu Klubben' (8a) at Siuntio. On May Esko Hautanen repeated 'Matador' (8a) at Falkberget. Nice work!
Update: Pasi Sjöman has also repeated 'Matador' on 20th June.
Andy's Magic Wood ticks
19.06.2010
According to Sakari McGregor's excellent blog Andy Gullsten has this far climbed several hard boulder lines in Magic Wood, Switzerland. These include 'One Summer in Paradise' (8b), 'Pura Vida' (8a+) and 'Massive Attack' (8a+). More ascents in Andy's scorecard.
Hattivatti repeated
10.06.2010
Aki Nurminen has yesterday repeated 'Hattivatti' (8a) at Myllis, a creation of Andy Gullsten few weeks back. Aki has had a good year as he has previously repeated several other 8a's such as 'Koopa', 'Hottentotti' and 'Zion train'.
Edge of Darkness
07.06.2010
Jani Lehtola has yesterday climbed one of the hardest projects at Louhua boulder. 'Edge of Darkness' weights in at around 8b.
The line seemed to be a serious challenge for Jani who is no stranger for hard lines and determined projecting. As the bad slopers and hooks are making the line very weather dependent, Jani was forced to shift to night sessions. Hence the name 'Edge of Darkness'. In total some 25 sessions plus some slimming was required before the mission was completed. Well done!
Rocinante by Sami
05.06.2010
After winning his category in the youth Finnish championships on April, Sami Koponen has been having nice rising trend on real rock. Today he repeated 'Rocinante' (7c+) at Vuorivaara. Nice! We'll probably hear about this 15 years old chap from Joensuu later on...
'Gare au Grand Gourou', an 8a+ onsight by Tomi
