Male podium: Sami Koponen, Antti Kontio and Jere Hurtig. Female: Helmi Puustinen, Sanna Leppänen and Marianne Lalli. Congrats! All results and photos here.
Couple of boulder ascents before start of the indoor season in Finland: Timo Toivonen climbed 'Painajainen assis' (8a) in Nokia couple of weeks ago. Ilari Kelloniemi has climbed 'Houdini assis' (8b) in Långholmen, Stockholm area. Andy Gullsten and Nalle Hukkataival were on a trip to Austria. Andy did lines such as 'The Power of Goodbye' (8b) and 'Power Break' (8a+). Unfortunately Nalles main target, a sit start to 'Bügeleisen' ('silitysrauta' in finnish) was wet but he opened ‘High highs and low lows’ (8a) and did also 'Power Break' and 'Black Jack' (both 8a+). Better luck next time with Bügeleisen! Samuel Hammer did 'Sundance sit' (8a+) in Ginzling Wald, also in Austria.
On September Haukkavuori in Rautjärvi got two new sports lines. 'Malo' by Tatu Autio and 'One Minute Silence' by Jani Lunnas both check in at 8a or harder range.
Top three in men: Anton Johansson, Ilari Kelloniemi and Elias Silvola. Women: Katariina Haime, Niini Vartia and Helmi Puustinen. Congrats! Detailed results here (in pdf-format). The venue was Bouldertehdas in Turku.
Anton Johansson has today made the second repeat of Nalle Hukkataival testpiece 'The Globalist' (8b+) in Sipoo. The route was opened on 2009 and has this far seen only one repeat (Andy Gullsten 2011). Congratulations!
Andy Gullsten took gold yesterday in Bouldering Nordic championships in Stockholm. Ilari Kelloniemi placed fourth. On female side Anna Laitinen placed fourth and Eevi Jaakkola fifth. Congratulations! Detailed results here.
A week back in Nekala Masters, Tampere, Joonas Selänniemi collected the biggest heap of points. Katariina Haime, Niini Vartia and Anitra Taskinen all collected equal amount of points on the female side. Results here.
Anton Johansson has today made a fast ascent to 'Keep Going' (8c) in sector Kalydna, Kalymnos. The route has been opened by wonder kid Alexander Megos on 2009. Congrats!!!
Sisu Masters by Toyota Kiipeilyareena was the first real international challenge competitition arranged in Finland. Our best male and female boulderers were testing their skills against some of the best in the world. This was not all: the day started with an open comp where the Areena's shiny new bouldering facility was run in and ended to a party with some well known performers. As you can imagine, all incredients for a good whole day social climbing experience were present and the outcome did not leave you dissappointed.
What comes to the publicity, no other climbing event in Finland has been promoted this much beforehand. The event got good pre coverage in several newspapers, radio channels and even in tv. Tickets were sold out well before Saturday but fortunately live stream was available for everyone who could not come to the spot.
Routes in the challenge comp were built by the participants and thereby presented more or less the climbers individual strengths. For this reason climbing was diversified and enjoyable to watch! Results: Men: 1. Nalle Hukkataival, 2. Anthony Gullsten, 3. Kilian Fischhuber, 4. Dave Graham - Women: 1. Mélissa Le Nevé, 2. Anna Stöhr, 3. Anna Laitinen, 4. Eevi Jaakkola.
Results of the open competition can be found here (in pfd-format). The winners were Ilari Kelloniemi and Roosa Huhtikorpi. More information about the whole event in the pages of Sisu Masters and Facebook. The video stream of the challenge comp can be replayed here.
Many thanks for the arrangement team for an excellent and successfull event! Hopefully this will become some kind of a tradition.
Recent impressive flash sends: Ilari Kelloniemi
has flashed 'Helboy' and 'Kaamos' both (7c+) in Viidakkokalliot, Espoo. In addition, he has done quick work with 'Unusual suspect' (8a), 'Hattivatti' (8a) and 'Hottentotti assis' (8a+) in Myllis. Olli Antikainen did also 'Unusual Suspect'. Sami Koponen flashed 'Molester' (7c+) and 'Svetogorsk' (7b+) in Lökkiö area, Puumala. Nice!!
Anna Laitinen and Mina Jokivirta have both climbed 'Adlon' (8a) in Nummi. Anna did the line couple of weeks back and Mina last Thursday. These were most probably the first female ascents to this crimpy route.
Jani Lehtola has opened a new very hard route in Luohua block, Oulu area. 'Desperado' (8b) has independent start and it shares the same end with 'Fat Hippo'. Congratulations!!
Boulders: Jani Lehtola has repeated Sami Haapakoski's 'Veni, Vidi, Vici' (8a) in Ängesby, Sweden. Matti Uurtamo has sent 'Nambla' (8a) in Hiidenkirnut, Tuomo Lankinen, Marko Kauko and Anssi Venho repeated 'Localist' (8a) in Lökkiö. On a roped side Anssi Kankkunen has repeated 'Matador' (8a) in Falkberget, Kirkkonummi.
Anton Johansson and Sauli Kiema had a couple of days bouldering trip to north. During the stop in Pyhäntä
they did the first and second repeat of Jani Lehtola's testpiece 'No Man's Land standing start' (8a). In Ängesby
Sweden Anton repeated Sami Haapakoski's 'Veni, Vidi, Vici' (8a) and opened a sit-start version which adds 2 moves to the start and checks in at 8a+.
Once again the weekend offered good climbing weather and several hard ascents were completed. Samuel Hammer bagged the third and Markus Lehtonen fourth ascent of 'Mestari Globulus
' (8b) in Mustavuori. Pamu also flashed 'Tohtori Gaussin Käyrä' (7c) on the same cliff. Last week he added a hard direct end variation to 'Super Mario' (7a+) in Pickala, Kirkkonummi. 'Hyper Mario' checks in at 7c+. During the weekend Mikko Mäkelä bagged his first 8b, 'A Day in Life' in Niemisel, Sweden. Congrats!!!
On the ropeless side, another strong youngster Sami Koponen repeated 'Atlantis' (8a), a steep test piece by Sami Romppainen in northern Savo. On Saturday he visited new hot-spot Huhtanen in Imatra and opened 'Kukkoritari' (8a) which adds 4 moves to the start of 'Dark Knight' (7c+).
Finnish highlights from weekend's event in Kiipeilyareena: Junior boys: 1st Elias Silvola, 2nd Sami Koponen. Youth A boys: 1st Samuel Hammer. Youth B girls: Helmi Puustinen. Complete results here.
Bouldering European championships were competed at the same time in Eindhoven (NED). Andy Gullsten and Anna Laitinen took part and placed 23rd and 28th respectively. Results here.
Last Saturday Andy Gullsten made the first repeat of 'Mestari Globulus' (8b) in Mustavuori, Mäntyharju. The route was opened on 2010 by Rami Haakana. Previous weekend Ville Mustonen climbed
'Texas Ranger' (8a+) in Ruhankallio, Tervakoski.
Yet again a step up in Finnish climbing standards: Anu Korosuo is the first Finnish woman to bag an 8a trad ascent! The route was 'Mustang' in Cadarese, Italy! Read the amazing story in Saku's blog.
Markus Lehtonen is in a strong form which he put into a good use in Niemisel about a week back. Highlights include 'A Day in a Life' (8b), 'Diabolic Feelings (8a+) and 'Swing It' (8a/+).
Andy Gullsten has yesterday opened a new hard test piece in Mustavuori, Mäntyharju. The line in question was bolted years ago by Joonas Sailaranta and offers jamming and compression moves on a continuous 45 plus degrees overhang. The route got named 'Kansannousu' (8b+). In addition to this, Andy also made probably the first repeat to 'Amen Break' (8b) and last Saturday he bagged 'Oma Planeetta' (8a+) in Olhava. Strikingly impressive!!
Andy has also logged an ascent that he hinted about in social media: on end of June he opened 'Mr. Hyde' (8c+) in sector Biografie, Céüse. Whoa!
Kari Holkko has climbed his hard project in Karahonganvuori, Orivesi. 'Integratron' gets a grade suggestion 7c+/8a. Story and photos about the labour pains in Rannari. Congrats!!
Saku Korosuo has sent yet another bad ass trad line, 'Mustang' (8a), in Cadarese, Italy. Check the story in Saku's blog. Nice!!! Sami Koponen has opened an old project in Vuorivaara, Joensuu area. 'Jatkuva Hulluus' checks in at 8a. Other recent ascents: during his competition trip to Imst, Samuel Hammer sent 'Fortuna' (8b) in Nassereith, Austria and Ilari Kelloniemi has sent both 'Sulttaani' (8a+), Nummi and 'Buu-klubben' (8a) in Siuntio.