Despite of warm weather, Andy Gullsten has climbed 'Jungle Speed' (9a) in one session! The route situates in sector La Capella, Siurana. Couple of days earlier he flashed 'Cronica' (8b) in sector L'Olla.
Andy has been on the road now for about a month. On the way to south he has stopped in
Fontainebleau where he did lines such as 'La Théorie des Jeux' (8b) and 'Big Dragon' (8a+). In Switzerland he did 'Heritage' (8b+) and a proper heap of 8b's such as 'No mistery after break', 'Schule des Lebens after break', 'General Disarray', 'Santoku', 'Kings of sonlerto' and 'The crack line'. Impressive indeed!
Long-term routesetter Sami Romppainen has opened probably the hardest boulder line in Savo. 'Kovasikajuttu' starts with about 10 reachy compression moves on a 40-50 degrees overhang and follows an easy crack of about 4 meters to the top. All in all there are over 20 moves from start to the top of the 8 meters high boulder. The end part of the route goes between two stones over a ravine so falling is not an option here. Sami feels that the grade is somewhere at 8a/8a+ range and he's not hesitant to say that the line is among the finest in Finland at this grade level. By knowing Sami's eye for quality lines and by looking the photos this is easy to agree with!
Anna Laitinen and Samuel Hammer have been having a good start for their trip to Spanish sports crags. On the first day they both did 'Memorias de una sepia' (8a) in sector Siuranella, Siurana. The route was flashed by Samuel. Today Anna sent 'Ramadan' (8b) in a session! Probably more hard sends to come...
Jari Koski has opened a new great sports climb in Elimäki area. 'Omat Säännöt' (own rules) situates in Ytmäki and offers > 10 meters of physical and technical climbing on slightly overhanging wall. Initial suggestion for the grade is 8a which probably isn't far from the truth. This is Jari's second testpiece in the area after excellent 'Half Century' (8a) in Rotkokallio. His creation 'Vanha Soturi' (7c+/8a range) from last summer is still waiting for the first repeat. The line situates in Askola, north from Porvoo.
Katariina Rahikainen has been having very productive climbing days in Spain. Yesterday she became probably the first Finnish woman to flash 8th grade by doing 'Entre dos Caminos' (8a)in Chulilla. She also did 'La Quebranta' (7c+) on 2nd go. Other good climbs from the past days include onsights of 'Super Zeb' (7c) also in Chulilla, and 'Scala Dei' (7c) in Montsant. Nice!!!
To every climbers delight, season has started earlier than expected (although, for some it never really ended)! Season's first hard FA was done by Andy Gullsten, who opened a sit start to 'Fatman' establishing 'Fat chicks can't jump!' (8a+) in Hilatien kattokivi, Kirkkonummi. Abroad Anton Johansson did 'The Great Shark Hunt' (8b) in Chironico third go. Jani Lehtola has climbed ultra-classic 'Karma' (8a+) in Cuisinière, Fontainebleau and Sauli Kiema 'Kirk Windstein' (8a+) and 'Miss Schweitz' (8a) in Cresciano.
Nalle Hukkataival has this evening sent 'Gioia' (8c+), one of the most iconic and extreme testpieces in the world of bouldering! The line situates in Varazze, Italy, and was opened by Christian Core on 2008. This far it has seen only one repeat by Adam Ondra on 2011. Hopefully a video to come. Madly inspiring! Congrats!!!
The competition took place today and thaks to a smooth and high quality video streaming, everyone could enjoy the event even from a home sofa. Arrangements by Voema team and routes by Tomi Nytorp seemed to be top-notch!
Female podium: 1. Roosa Huhtikorpi (4/4 flashed!), 2. Katariina Haime, 3. Anitra Taskinen. Male podium: 1. Anthony Gullsten (again, 4/4 flashed), 2. Ilari Kelloniemi, 3. Sami Koponen. Congratulations! Detailed results from the finals here and from qualifications here. The results include also senior male and female categories.
Katariina Rahikainen managed to send two of her projects in Oliana today. The routes 'Michi' and 'Mon Dieu' took both 6-7 days of work but were sent on a same day. And yes, they are not just a walk in the park but 8a and 8a+ respectively. Congrats!
Kata has been having very good winter trip to Middle and Southern Europe. She has done several eighth grade routes, the hardest this far being 'Flix Flax' (8a+) in Terradets.
Assortment of choises for an indoor climber grew even bigger in capital area as the new BK Isatis opened it's doors last weekend in Mekaanikonkatu 15, Herttoniemi. The hall offers big variety of bouldering profiles with a huge overhanging prow not seen in any Finnish climbing gyms before. The other services include cafe, gear shop, yoga, conference rooms, sauna etc. Rather complete package one would say!
The opening competition on Saturday gathered 200 climbers. Categories were many and the results can be found here. For a set of great photos surf here (photos by Juha Immonen).
UPDATE: Results from the Sunday's finals here.
Enni Bertling took exquisite 6th position in an ice climbing competition arranged beside Kandersteg Ice Climbing Festival, Switzerland. Check the detailed results here.
Fortunately the previous news update was not the year's last after all! Tomi Nytorp is back in business after some serious elbow troubles. During a turn of the year -trip to Spain, he has visited Perles and managed to climb 'Escalatamàsters' (9a). According to Tomi, he studied the moves three times and managed to sent the line on his second redpoint try. This was Tomi's second 9a after 'La Cabane au Canada' on summer 2012. Congratulations!!
Perles situates on the southern slopes of Pyrenees nearby Oliana and the actual line is described in the topo as follows: "Beautiful rock arch of Pont de l'arc host one of the most awesome-looking climbs in the region: the amazing and rarely repeated 'Escalatamàsters'".
...with year's last news summary.
Sends with rope: Katariina Rahikainen has done 'La Cucina d'Inferno' (8a) in sector Massone, Arco (Italy) and in sector Bruixes, Terradets (Spain) both 'Bon Viatge' (8a) and 'Latido del Miedo' (8a). On boulders, Anssi Laatikainen has climbed 'El Varano' (8a) and 'Zarzamora' (8a) in Albarracin (Spain). Nalle Hukkataival has visited Red Rocks in Nevada and climbed hard as usual. Check the details in Nalle's blog.
Results from some of the year's last competitions have been hard to find but here are some anyway from Paja Open vol. 001 and Asemaboulder 2013. Oulu Open 2013 results from early November still missing.
Kisanjärjestäjille tiedoksi: slouppi.net mielellään kertoo myös kisatulokset. Kun nyt edelleen näette sloupin hyväksi kanavaksi levittää tietoa tulevista kisoista niin kannattaa jälkikäteen lähettää myös tuloslista tai ainakin linkki saitille mistä tulokset löytyvät. Tulokset julkaistaan suurella varmuudella ja yleensä pienemmällä viiveellä :-) Hyvää joulua!
Male podium: Sami Koponen, Antti Kontio and Jere Hurtig. Female: Helmi Puustinen, Sanna Leppänen and Marianne Lalli. Congrats! All results and photos here.
Couple of boulder ascents before start of the indoor season in Finland: Timo Toivonen climbed 'Painajainen assis' (8a) in Nokia couple of weeks ago. Ilari Kelloniemi has climbed 'Houdini assis' (8b) in Långholmen, Stockholm area. Andy Gullsten and Nalle Hukkataival were on a trip to Austria. Andy did lines such as 'The Power of Goodbye' (8b) and 'Power Break' (8a+). Unfortunately Nalles main target, a sit start to 'Bügeleisen' ('silitysrauta' in finnish) was wet but he opened ‘High highs and low lows’ (8a) and did also 'Power Break' and 'Black Jack' (both 8a+). Better luck next time with Bügeleisen! Samuel Hammer did 'Sundance sit' (8a+) in Ginzling Wald, also in Austria.
On September Haukkavuori in Rautjärvi got two new sports lines. 'Malo' by Tatu Autio and 'One Minute Silence' by Jani Lunnas both check in at 8a or harder range.
Top three in men: Anton Johansson, Ilari Kelloniemi and Elias Silvola. Women: Katariina Haime, Niini Vartia and Helmi Puustinen. Congrats! Detailed results here (in pdf-format). The venue was Bouldertehdas in Turku.
Anton Johansson has today made the second repeat of Nalle Hukkataival testpiece 'The Globalist' (8b+) in Sipoo. The route was opened on 2009 and has this far seen only one repeat (Andy Gullsten 2011). Congratulations!
Andy Gullsten took gold yesterday in Bouldering Nordic championships in Stockholm. Ilari Kelloniemi placed fourth. On female side Anna Laitinen placed fourth and Eevi Jaakkola fifth. Congratulations! Detailed results here.
A week back in Nekala Masters, Tampere, Joonas Selänniemi collected the biggest heap of points. Katariina Haime, Niini Vartia and Anitra Taskinen all collected equal amount of points on the female side. Results here.
Anton Johansson has today made a fast ascent to 'Keep Going' (8c) in sector Kalydna, Kalymnos. The route has been opened by wonder kid Alexander Megos on 2009. Congrats!!!
Sisu Masters by Toyota Kiipeilyareena was the first real international challenge competitition arranged in Finland. Our best male and female boulderers were testing their skills against some of the best in the world. This was not all: the day started with an open comp where the Areena's shiny new bouldering facility was run in and ended to a party with some well known performers. As you can imagine, all incredients for a good whole day social climbing experience were present and the outcome did not leave you dissappointed.
What comes to the publicity, no other climbing event in Finland has been promoted this much beforehand. The event got good pre coverage in several newspapers, radio channels and even in tv. Tickets were sold out well before Saturday but fortunately live stream was available for everyone who could not come to the spot.
Routes in the challenge comp were built by the participants and thereby presented more or less the climbers individual strengths. For this reason climbing was diversified and enjoyable to watch! Results: Men: 1. Nalle Hukkataival, 2. Anthony Gullsten, 3. Kilian Fischhuber, 4. Dave Graham - Women: 1. Mélissa Le Nevé, 2. Anna Stöhr, 3. Anna Laitinen, 4. Eevi Jaakkola.
Results of the open competition can be found here (in pfd-format). The winners were Ilari Kelloniemi and Roosa Huhtikorpi. More information about the whole event in the pages of Sisu Masters and Facebook. The video stream of the challenge comp can be replayed here.
Many thanks for the arrangement team for an excellent and successfull event! Hopefully this will become some kind of a tradition.