Slouppi.net synnytettiin -90 luvulla Rock Climbing in Finland ja Pulteri.net saittien yhteenliittymänä kasvavan suomalaisen kiipeilijäkunnan tiedonjanoa tyydyttämään. Uuden vikkelämmän median nähtiin mukavasti täydentävän Kletteratiinin ja myöhemmin Kiipeilylehden antia. Topot, uudet reitit, kovat nousut ja kisat ovat olleet keskeistä materiaalia. Uutisoinnissa on pyritty laaja-alaisuuteen objektiiviseen esitystapaan. Kieleksi valittiin Englanti jotteivät kielialueemme ulkopuolelta tulevatkaan jäisi tietoa vaille.
Kovasti on maailma muuttunut näistä ajoista.
Nykyään tieto leviää nopeasti some –ympäristöissä, minkä lisäksi erinomainen 27crags.com on tehokkaasti korvannut 'hardkoodatut' topot. Sloupin merkitys tiedon jakajana on tässä ympäristössä pienentynyt aivan oleellisesti.
Sloupin kaltaisen saitin ylläpito vaatii myös aikaa ja aktiivista läsnäoloa kiipeilyskenessä. Reilun vuosikymmenen ajan olen vastannut yksin Sloupin toiminnasta, samalla kun käytettävän ajan määrä on vähentynyt. Päivitystahti on hidastunut ja uutiset lähinnä listauksia nousuista, eli tietoa joka on suoraan nähtävillä muissa kanavissa. Tätä taustaa vasten on varmasti helppo ymmärtää päätös uutisoinnin lopettamisesta ja moni miettinee miksei tätä ratkaisua ole tehty jo vuosia sitten.
Iso kiitos kaikille vuosien kuluessa Slouppi.netin kehittämiseen (Mervi, Samppa ja Talvikki!) ja sisällöntuotantoon osallistuneille, sekä tietysti lukijoille!
Nähdään kallioilla ja kivillä!
PS. Saittia voidaan jatkossa käyttää esim. access- tai kisatiedotukseen, jos tieto on valmiiksi julkaisumuodossa. Ei myöskään ole poissuljettua että Slouppi.net jatkaa pienimuotoisesti Facebook/27crags -ympäristössä jonne tiedotteet linkitetään. Näistä vaihtoehdoista myöhemmin lisää. Uskoisin että Sloupin uutistietokannalla alkaa olla hieman kiipeilyhistoriallistakin arvoa joten se pyritään pitämään julkisesti nähtävillä. Foorumin toiminta jatkuu toistaiseksi normaalisti.
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Shortly in English: Slouppi.net discontinues news publication. Thanks for all the readers!
End season ascents
Long dry and chilly period has given a good opportunity for many to realize their projects. Here are some, probably as many missing.
Helsinki area boulders: Sami Koponen has opened a new route 'Bloody Baron' (8a) in Sipoo. 'Hottentotti' (8a) has been repeated by at least Anna Laitinen, Anssi Laatikainen and Markus Muinonen. Visiting star Griffin Whiteside did also the assis version (8a+) and 'Unusual Suspect' (8a).
In Jyväskylä area Mr Whiteside did several classics such as 'Syyshämärä assis' (8b), 'Paddington' (8a, flash!) and 'Forte' (8a). Jere Hurtig did also
'Paddington' and Anssi Laatikainen who has got into really good shape 'Forte'.
Other parts of Finland: Sami Romppainen has just opened 'Nepenthe' (8a) in Viitaniemi, Kuopio. Osmo Aspi has earlier this summer opened 'Master Messenger' and 'Smooth Operator' (both 8a) in Simo area, Antti Virtavuo has opened 'Jäätävä Polte' (8a) in Noormarkku. Juha Olli repeated 'Kukkoritari ss' (8a) in Huhtanen boulder, Imatra.
In Switzerland Ilari Kelloniemi has climbed a good number of 8a and above routes such as 'La Proue' (8b), 'Dreamtime stand' (8a+), 'Doctor Jump' (8a+) and 'La Pelle Direct' (8a+). Anssi Laatikainen did 'Arete with Pocket' (8a) in Chironico.
With rope Johannes Puranen has climbed 'Malo' (8a) and Pasi Sjöman 'Kultakanta' (8a/+) and 'Wild Side' (8a) in Haukkavuori. Anthony Gullsten has climbed 'Eye of Odin' and 'Muy Verdes' (both 8c+) in Flatanger, Norway.
Long time since the last news update but here are some of the hardest sends with boulders first.
In the beginning of August Mr Voema Sami Romppainen flashed 'Nambla' (8a) in Hiidenkirnut, Rovaniemi. Flashing a route this hard in Finland is very exceptional, so it makes an impressive proof of Sami's superb skills!! About a week back Ilari Kelloniemi sent 'Monumentti' (8b) in Pihlajasaari.
On a rope Katariina Rahikainen has climbed 'Super Duper Goo' (8a) in Blue mountains, Australia and Anna Laitinen 'Radote joli pépère' (8b) in Céüse, France. Markus Lehtonen has again been having a great season. After collecting an impressive ticklist from Céüse, Markus has climbed 'Jaakobin Paini' (8b+), 'Amen Break' (8b) and 'Malo' (8a) in Finland and 'Rich Marcus' (8c) link-up in Niemisel, Sweden. On August Andy Gullsten started his trad career modestly with a very quick ascent of 'Hiidenkirnu' (8a) in Mäntyharju. This was probably the third ascent after FA by Tomi Nytorp and first rep by Johannes Puranen about two years back. Johannes has also been sending well lately with ascents of 'Kultakanta' (8a/+) and 'Mestari Globulus' (8b). In Nummi 'Fors Fortuna' (8a+) has been climbed by both Sami Koponen and Ilari Kelloniemi. In addition, Sami climbed 'Sulttaani' (8a+) and 'Sheriffi' (8a), which Björn Isomaa also did about a week back.
Access ongelmia Olhavalla
Kiipeilyliittoon on tullut Metsähallitukselta erittäin vakavasti otettavaa ja ikävää palautetta suomalaisten kiipeilijöiden käyttäytymisestä Olhavalla heinäkuun aikana. Olhavalle on jätetty jätesäkillisiä roskia ja tyhjiä tölkkejä mm. laavun palautelaatikko oli tungettu täyteen roskia. Muut retkelijät oli käsketty pois laavulta kiipeilijöiden alta, eli laavu oli varattu kokonaan itselle. Paikalla olleet kiipeilijät olivat väittäneet, että laavu on vain kiipeilijöitä varten, mikä on ihan ennenkuulumatonta hölmöilyä. Meluaminen on jatkunut pitkälle aamuyöhön niin, etteivät muut retkeilijät ja lähialueen mökkiläiset ole saaneet nukuttua. Tänä päivänä ei pelkästään Metsähallitus, vaan myös muut retkeilijät seuraavat kiipeilijöitä tarkasti ja kaikki ylilöynnit tulevat heti tietoon.
Olhavan arvo Suomen kiipeilylle on korvaamaton ja tämän ymmärtäville kiipeilijöille tällainen käytös on sama asia kuin kirkon alttarilla riehuminen.
On sanomattakin selvää, että näin ei voida jatkaa. Nyt on korkea aika ymmärtää, että Olhavalla elämä on muuttunut niistä “kultaisista” vuosista, jolloin tuollainen käytös oli enemminkin meriitti kuin moka. Nyt olisi siis näiden idioottien syytä katsoa itseään peiliin ja miettiä omaa käytöstään ihan kunnolla.
Olhavalla toimitaan erityisen etiketin mukaan, joka löytyy opastetauluista. Kolme tärkeintä asiaa ovat:
*Roskaton retkeily: et jätä itsestäsi mitään jälkiä ja vie kaikki omasi ja muidenkin jättämät roskat mennessäsi
*Kunnioita luonnon rauhaa olemalla hiljaa; leirissä hiljaisuus kello 22.00, jotta kaakkurit, kiipeilijät, jotka tulevat kiipeilemään ja nauttimaan luonnosta, eivätkä riehumaan, ja muut retkeilijät saavat levätä
*Ota huomioon muut ihmiset toiminnassasi ja ole kohtelias
Jos näet asiatonta käytöstä, kun itse olet mestoilla, ole sinä se järkevä, joka puuttuu ajoissa toimintaan. Se on meidän kaikkien ei vain velvollisuutemme mutta myös etumme.
Sloupin Access-osiossa (http://bit.ly/1Kiq2oD) on Olhavan perusohjeet, kohdetaulussa leirissä tarkemmin.
'Syncro' by Ilari
Ilari Kelloniemi climbed today 'Syncro' (8c+) in Nummi. This was probably the fifth ascent to this Finland's hardest after Tomi Nytorp (fa), Anthony Gullsten, Andreas Bindhammer and Samuel Hammer. Visionarily bolted by Henrik Suihkonen. Thanks to Anssi for photo and congrats to Ilari!!
Andy flashes 'King of Limbs' (8b/+)
Andy Gullsten has yesterday flashed 'King of Limbs' (8b/+) in Rocklands. The line was originally graded 8b+/c. Very impressive!!
27crags uudelle greidille!
Hyvät kiipeilyveljet ja siskot!
Olette tehneet hienoa työtä luodessanne sisältöä 27crags.com:iin kaikkien kiipeilijöiden saataville. 27crags.com on ollut menestys Suomessa ja suomalainen kiipeily ei voi enää koskaan palata pelkän paperitopon varaan.
Kuten varmaan jo tiedätte, tänä vuonna 27 Crags on aika viedä aivan uudelle greidille ja tehdä siitä appsi kännyköille. Siksi keräämme applikaation ennakko-ostoja Indiegogo:ssa.
Joukkorahoituskampanjat ovat erikoista psykologista peliä. Tuhannet hienot ideat kickstarttereissa yms. ovat kaatuneet siihen, että idealla on vain muutamia lahjoittajia. Kun on vähän lahjoittajia se pitää uudet lahjoittajat epäileväisinä.
Pyydämme teiltä, sisäpiiriläisiltä, luottohenkilöiltä, varmistajapareilta, että tilaatte applikaation Indiegogo-sivustolta heti sunnuntaina klo 12.
Näin autatte epäileväisten epämääräistä joukkoa tarttumaan mukaan tarjoukseemme. Mitä nopeammin saamme ensimmäisen päivän aikana kerättyä rahaa sen enemmän kampanjamme saa näkyvyyttä Indiegogo:n etusivulla ja kerää myös lahjoittajia, jotka eivät ole 27 Cragsista koskaan kuulleetkaan.
Alla muutamia faktoja kampanjasta.
1. Kampanjan tavoitteet:
* 20000 € mahdollistaa iOS appsin tekemisen
* 40000 € mahdollistaa myös Android appsin tekemisen
2. Ennakkotilattavia paketteja on 15-1500 €:n väliltä
3. Lahjoitus oikeuttaa appsin vuosijäsenyyteen, jolla saa täyden version appsista
4. 27 Crags on ja tulee olemaan aina ilmainen. Syksyn aikana tulemme lisäämään sinne myös maksullisia topoja. Vuosijäsenyys mahdollistaa kaikkien maksullisten topojen käytön kännykällä.
5. Jos kampanjan tavoitteet täyttyy
* appsista julkaistaan myös ilmainen versio
* voimme saada toteutukseen myös julkista rahaa, mikä mahdollistaa oikeasti maailman parhaimman kiipeilysovelluksen tekemisen
6. Jos kamppis ei onnistu tavoitteessa, niin rahat saa takaisin (ja 27Crags appsia tuskin koskaan tulee). Jos 20000 € tavoite ylitetään, mutta tavoite jää alle 40000 € Android appsin toimitusaika venyy vuodelle 2016, mutta se tehdään kyllä.
Tilataan siis heti sunnuntaina klo 12 osoitteesta http://igg.me/at/27crags ja tehdään mobiilisovelluksesta nyt totta!
May and early summer ascents
For those who do not actively follow 27crags or the social media, here's a probably very incomplete list of harder end ascents from the last one and half months.
New boulders: 'Lurppikerho' (8b) in Nousiainen by Ilari Kelloniemi and 'Timantit Ovat Ikuisia' (8a) in Pinsiö by Antti Virtavuo. The latter was repeated by Tommi Lahtinen. Other ascents of existing routes: Jarkko Linkosuonio 'Bob Marley' and 'Hottentotti assis', both 8a+. Andy Gullsten 'Armoton' (8b+) in Myllis, Kuutti Huhtikorpi 'Mongooli' (8a) in Åland, Olli Antikainen 'Mahjongg' (8a) in Juuka, Lauri Vehkala 'Nambla' (8a) in Rovaniemi, Markus Lehtonen 'Kellarijengi' (8a) in Turku and 'Optical Illusion' (8a) in Espoo. The latter was also climbed by Markus Muinonen. With rope: Already on April Sauli Kiema climbed 'Subway' (8b) and 'Slimline' (8a) in Frankenjura. Sami Koponen and Pasi Sjöman have climbed 'Jaakobin Paini' (8b+) in Nummi.
'Texas Ranger' (8a+) onsight by Andy
Andy Gullsten has yesteray onsighted 'Texas Ranger' (8a+) in Ruhankallio. Very impressive!! He also climbed the nice left start variation 'Bruce Lee' (8a+).
At least two international events/comps have attracted Finnish climbers lately. Andy Gullsten, Anna Laitinen and Nalle Hukkataival took part in Melloblocco
in Italy. This outdoor climbing event has been growing every year and there is also a competition where the new testpieces of the area are being challenged. Andy performed extremely well by sending 9 of the 10 comp routes with 5 flashes. Only Adam Ondra and Martin Stranik from (CZ) were able to match this performance. Detailed results here.
European Championships in Bouldering were held in Innsbruck past weekend. Anna, Andy and Ilari Kelloniemi were competing with placings 29th, 21st and 59th respectively. Detailed results here.
'New Orleans Heavy Weight Division' (8c) by Pamu
A month has passed since last update so here's again a combined list of some remarkable ascents.
Roped action from abroad first: Samuel 'Pamu' Hammer tells in Instagram that he has done 'New Orleans Heavy Weight Division' (8c) in Frankenjura. Sami Koponen visited Spain and did several 8th grade routes including 'No toques a tu madre' (8a+) in Desplomilandia.
On boulders Pasi Sjöman continued strong spring in Switzerland by doing 'Arete With Pocket' (8a) in Chironico. In Font Antti Virtavuo climbed a classic dyno 'Rainbow Rocket' (8a). In Finland Sami Koponen climbed 'Optical Illusion' (8a) and 'Hottentotti assis' (8a+) which has just recently been climbed also by Kuutti Huhtikorpi and Jiri Kuusonen. Jarkko Linkosuonio did 'Hottentotti' and 'Unusual Suspect', both 8a. Andy Gullsten has climbed 'Normipäivä' (8b) in Åland and '27club' (8a+) in Lappnor. Tuomo Vainio did 'Kellarijengi' (8a) in Pirunpesä, Turku. Last but certainly not least the routesetter of the final Boulderliiga series Griffin Whiteside climbed 'The Globalist' (8b+) in Sipoo.
The final positions after the series was quite clear before the last event and there were no big surprises in the male category. Top three were Andy Gullsten, Nalle Hukkataival and Ilari Kelloniemi. Andy took also the first position in the overall results
followed by Ilari Kelloniemi and Sami Koponen. On female side, the winner was Anna Laitinen, second Eevi Jaakkola and third Tarja Sinisalo. Anna was superior in the overall results, followed by Niini Vartia and Eevi Jaakkola. Best three in both categories nabbed good money prices with 2000, 1000 and 500 euros respectively. Congratulations!
Spring season has been on for some time now in Finland and many hard ticks have been witnessed already.
At least one hard new line has been established as Ilari Kelloniemi opened 'Nälkävuosi' (8a+) in Nousiainen. Repeats: Two days back Jarkko Linkosuonio did quick work with 'Supermario' (8b) and yesterday 'My Cock Rages On' (8a) in Myllis. Also yesterday Anssi Kankkunen climbed 'Hottentotti assis' (8a+) and Anna Laitinen 'Hottentotti' (8a). This was most probably the first female ascent of this testpiece. Nice!!! Pasi 'Sjömonster' Sjöman has been shrinking his to-do list by ascents of 'Pukaron Paroni' (8a), 'Unusual Suspect' (8a) and 'Painajainen assis' (8a). The latter was climbed also by Sami Haarahiltunen. Markus Lehtonen and Ville Mustonen did 'Totoro' (8a) and Timo Houkka 'Hottentotti' (8a). With rope Johannes Puranen climbed 'Buu Klubben' (8a).
Accident in Annapurna
A very sad day for climbing community. Samuli Mansikka and a local guide Pemba Sherpa died today while descending Mount Annapurna in Himalayas, Nepal. Deepest condolences to his family and friends.
Boulderliiga in Oulu and Lappeenranta
On mid February the Boulderliiga arrived in Oulu. It seemed that couple of the top male participants were distracted by the distance or maybe military obligations. Anyway the male podium was shared by Axel Lindfors, Osmo Aspi and four other competitors sharing the third position. Anna Laitinen, Niini Vartia and Teresa Harjula shared the female podium. Detailed results from Oulun Kiipeilykeskus can be found here.
Last weekend the venue was the nice hall of BoulderSaimaa. Winner here was a strong Russian guest Vadim Timonov, followed by Andy Gullsten and Ilari Kelloniemi. Eevi Jaakkola and Anna Laitinen shared the first position and Niini vartia was third in female category. Detailed results here. Congrats!
Raportti tammikuun alkupuolella tapahtuneesta jääkiipeilyonnettomuudesta.
Kaksi kiipeilijää oli aamupäivällä saapunut Artjärven Muikkulankylän Haukkaankalliolle kiipeämään kallion jääputousta. Sää oli erittäin tuulinen ja lämpötila noin -5C. Jääputous sijaitsi kallion tuulensuojaisessa kohdassa, joten alhaalla putouksen juurella olosuhteet olivat suhteellisen hyvät.
Kiipeily päästiin aloittamaan ensimmäisen kiipeilijän valitessa kiipeilylinjaksi putouksen vasemman puoleisen laidan. Nousun loppuvaiheessa ensimmäinen kiipeilijä ehdotti että voisi varmistaa toisen kiipeilijän ylhäältä. Ensimmäinen kiipeilijä kuitenkin totesi tuulen olevan ylhäällä reilusti kovempi kuin alhaalla ja päätti laskeutua tekemästään ankkurista alas parempiin olosuhteisiin varmistamaan toisen kiipeilijän nousua yläköysikiipeilymoodissa. Tuohon mennessä oli havaittu tuulen vaikuttavan kiipeilijöiden väliseen kommunikointiin. Huudoista ei saanut kunnolla selvää. Rakennettua yläköysiankkuria hyödynnettiin vielä yhteen yläköysinousuun.
Kellon lähestyessä puoltapäivää tuli toisen kiipeilijän vuoro liidata ylös ja hänelle yhdessä tuumin valittiin linja keskeltä putousta valmiin yläköysiankkurin kohdalta ja köysi vedettiin alas ankkurista.. Tämän jälkeen valmistauduttiin nousuun ja tarkastettiin molempien kiinnittyminen köyteen ennen nousuun lähtöä. Pari ei kuitenkaan sopinut mitä liidin jälkeen tapahtuu; laskeutuuko liidaaja itse, laskeeko varmistaja liidaajan alas tai jääkö liidaaja ylös varmistamaan seuraavan kiipeilijän. Kiipeily sujui hyvin ylös asti ja liidaaja kiinnitti köyden päivän aiemmilta nousuilta jätettyyn ankkuriin. Tämän jälkeen hän huusi alas varmistajalle "Voi alkaa laskemaan". Alhaalla varmistaja luuli kuulevansa "Voi lopettaa varmistamisen" ja vastasi ylös liidaajalle "Irti", jota ylhäällä ollut kiipeäjä ei kuullut. Tämän jälkeen varmistaja irrotti varmistuslaitteen kiipeilyköydestä.
Varmistaja kääntyi pois päin seinästä mennäkseen valmistautumaan omaan vuoroonsa kiivetä. Otettuaan yhden askeleen, hän kuuli putoavaa ääntä ja samalla hetkellä näki kuinka kiipeilijä putosi noin 25 metrin matkan alas törmäten jääputouksen juurella olevaan lumiseen kivikkoon. Maassa uhri pyörähti kertaalleen vasemmalle kyljelleen ja jäi tajuissaan valittamaan kipuja. Putoamisen aikana uhri osui oman muistikuvansa mukaan putouksen puoliväissä olevaan hyllyyn.
Heti putoamisen jälkeen tehtiin avunpyyntö 112een ja uhri pyrittiin pitämään lämpimänä vaatteiden ja ensiapupaketissa olleen lämpöpeiton avulla. Noin puolen tunnin odotuksen jälkeen pelastusyksiköt saapuivat paikalle ja veivät uhrin Päijät-Hämeen keskussairaalaan. Uhri oli tajuissaan koko matkan ajan. Varmistaja jäi jääputoukselle keräämään kiipeilyparin varusteet maasta sekä jääputouksen seinämältä.
Uhrilla todettiin useita eri tasoisia vammoja ja on nyt parantumassa niistä sairalahoidossa."
Boulderliiga in Jyväskylä and Turku
The year has started with two comps of Boulderliiga series. Two weeks back the podium in Boulderpaja was shared by Andy Gullsten, Sami Koponen and Jiri Kuusonen. This time the consistent top gun Ilari Kelloniemi had to exchange the valuable points for his trip to Albarracin, where he bagged impressive tick list! Respectively the female podium was shared by Roosa Huhtikorpi, Niini Vartia and Eevi Jaakkola. Detailed results here.
Last weekend the venue was Bouldertehdas in Turku. Here Ilari and Andy shared the first position followed by Axel Lindfors. Female positions were Eevi Jaakkola, Anna Laitinen (also shared 1st) and Roosa Huhtikorpi. Detailed results here.
Next Boulderliiga event will be arranged 14th February in Oulu.
End season climbs
Outdoor season has practically ended and maybe the last hard sends in Finland were Ilari Kelloniemi's repeat of 'Unbreakable' (8b), Nurmijärvi and Jarkko Linkosuonio's ascent of 'Hattivatti' (8a), Myllis. Abroad Katariina Rahikainen has climbed 'Self Portrait' (8a) in Blue Mountains, Australia and Kuutti Huhtikorpi added a nice ticklist from Kalymnos with 6 routes at 8a range.
Slouppi wishes Merry Christmas to all!
Last Saturday offered plenty of choices for a competition oriented climber: the traditional Asemaboulder in Koivukylä, fourth Boulderliiga comp in Tallinn and Hakkuhuukkailu event in the Olympic Stadium for the toolers. Links to the results below.
Mira Alhonsuo nabbed yesterday most probably the first female ascent of 'Suentassu' (M9+) in Sotkamo. The route was opened about 10 years ago by Antti Mankinen and was at the time the hardest mixed line in Finland. Congratulations!!
UPDATE: Read the story about the ascent from Rollomixed (in Finnish).
Kalakukkoboulder 2014 results
The event was a part of the Finnish Boulderleague and gathered around hundred climbers to Voema's excellent walls in Kuopio. Again, the podium was occupied by the familiar triplet: 1st Andy Gullsten, 2nd Ilari Kelloniemi and 3rd Sami Koponen. The order between Ilari and Andy was resolved after superfinal. The podium standings on the prettier category: 1st Anna Laitinen, 2nd Eevi Jaakkola and 3rd Niini Vartia. Detailed results here.
Jernej defies Hypergravity
The strong Slovenian Jernej Kruder climbed yesterday 'Hypergravity' (8b) in a less than optimal conditions. The man is known for his good weather tolerance as on last January he did 'Hottentotti assis' (8a+) in a freezing winter conditions. Very inspiring! Read the story from Jernej's blog.
Jernej is undoubtedly one of the world's best climbers and he does extemely well indoors also. On August he took silver in bouldering world championships in Munich. Next he'll head to La Sportiva Legends Only invitational in Stockholm. Best luck to Jernej for the competition!
'Armoton' (8b+) repeated by Ilari
Ilari Kelloniemi has repeated 'Armoton' (8b+), the ultimate testpiece in Myllis, opened by Sami Haapakoski on mid October. This was Ilari's second route of this grade within a month after the ascent of 'Globalist' in Sipoo. Very impressive!
Other recent ascents: Sauli Kiema and Sami Koponen repeated Sami's 'One for Sorrow' (8a) in Sipoo. Tuomo Vainio has climbed 'Nokipolvi' (8a) in Valkeavuori, Turku, Juho Kauppinen did 'Paddington' (8a) in Jyväskylä and Anssi Kankkunen dispatched 'Hottentotti' (8a) in Myllis last weekend.
'One Love' flash by Jarkko
Six years ago Jarkko Linkosuonio was a rising rock star with huge potential and full of motivation. However, things didn't go as expected and his overtraining symptoms proved to be something much more serious. Since that, the illness has prevented regular training and complicated his normal life. More about Jarkko's story in his blog.
The inner flame for climbing has not died and gradually Jarkko has been checking his 'lost' capabilities. Couple of weeks back he visited Font for a first time and managed to flash 'Magic Bus' (7b+) and do 'Carnage assis' (7c) on first try. About week ago he did 'Paddington' (8a) in a session and yesterday flashed 'One Love' (7c+), 'Gammamamma' (7b) and 'Ei Oo Rakkautta' (7a) in Sipoo. Yup, the power is still there and things are starting to look really promising!! Wishing speedy recovery to Jarkko.
Results from Isatis Open
Isatis in Helsinki hosted the second event of Boulderliiga. In male category the top positions were occupied pretty much by the same guys than in the first event: 1st Andy Gullsten, shared 2nd Sami Koponen, Ilari Kelloniemi, Kuutti Huhtikorpi and Evgenii Kalashnikov. In female Eevi Jaakkola and Anna Laitinen shared the 1st position, Katariina Haime was 3rd. Detailed results here.
Results from Finnish Lead Championships in Oulu
Anna Laitinen and Anthony Gullsten are the Finnish champions in difficulty 2014. The event took place in the great new climbing center of Oulu today. In female category the second was Maria Skyttä and third Katariina Haime. In male the second was Olli-Petteri Manni (this wasn't surprise!) and third Sami Koponen. Congratulations to all the finalists! Total results with also the younger age categories can be found here.
Results from the first Boulderliiga competition in Tampere can be found here.
'The Globalist' by Ilari and other ascents
Steadily progressing Ilari Kelloniemi dispatched yesterday third repeat of 'The Globalist' (8b+) in Sipoo. The line was opened by Nalle Hukkataival on -09 and has seen repeats at least by Andy Gullsten and Anton Johansson. Congrats!! Couple of days earlier he climbed 'Jaakobin Paini' (8b+) in Nummi and 'One for Sorrow' (8a) in Sipoo. Earlier October he did 'Asterix' (8a) in Rokokallio. The man is in shape, so all the best for the Finnish Championships in Oulu on the coming weekend!
Another hard core powerhouse Jani Lehtola did a remarkable first ascent by opening 'Livstid assis' (8a+) two days back. The route situates in Rian, northern Sweden and looks outstandingly good in the topo image.
Other hard ascents: in Sipoo Markus Muinonen has climbed 'Spider Pig' (8a) and Kuutti Heikkilä 'One for Sorrow' (8a). In Myllis cliff Espoo Anssi Venho has climbed 'Hattivatti' (8a) and both Juha Paatinen and Kuutti Heikkilä 'Unusual Suspect' (8a). In Jyväskylä area Juho Kauppinen and Ilkka Unkuri climbed 'Forte Risoluto' (8a). In Font Joel Lappalainen sent classic dyno 'Rainbow Rocket' (8a).
Hard addition to Reventeenvuori
Late season's great friction conditions produced a hard first ascent in Reventeenvuori: Maija Eerola did the first ascent of 'Zen oppitunti' (= Zen lesson), which was an old slab project between Summerdays and Ristinolla at Koulusektori. Maija estimates the route to be appr. 7c range. Grade confirmations can be sent to reventeenvuori (at) gmail.com. Good work, Maija!
Ruthless dispatch by Sami
Two days back Sami Haapakoski opened a cutting edge boulder route in Myllis crack, Espoo. 'Armoton' (Ruthless) runs over a severely overhanging face left from 'Hottentotti' and as you can guess, it presents a line you easily consider unclimbable. Sami however didn't think so and for a grade he suggests stiff 8b+. Great work!!
Sami has been on the front end of Finnish climbing for many years. Couple of weeks back he opened 'One For Sorrow' (8a) in Sipoo and on April last year 'Unbreakable' (8b) in Nurmijärvi.
Sami takes silver in bouldering NC
Youth Nordic Championships in bouldering were competed in Stockholm past weekend. In the Juniors category Sami Koponen was the first after Saturday's qualifications and took silver in the finals. Congratulations! Detailed result with other Finnish placements on the pages of Svenska Klätterförbundet.
Late summer ascents
Yet a collection of some nice ascents from Aug - Sep range.
Anna Laitinen has been roadtripping. On August she's been hitting at least the sweetly overhanging faces of Voralpsee in Switzerland. Souvenirs include an ascent of 'Alaska Kid' (8a) and probably many more hard lines. Also on August Olli Antikainen logged impressive amounf of 8a level boulders from Swizz. These include 'Marakesch' and '3er traverse' in Sustenpass, 'Komilator' in Chironico and 'Octopussy' in Magic Wood.
In homeland both Ilari Kelloniemi and Sami Koponen have climbed 'Spider Pig' (8a) in Sipoo (video below). Sami also repeated Ville Koskela's 'Fail Compilation' (8a) in Kuopio area. Antti Virtavuo and Juha Paatinen have climbed 'Forte Risoluto' (8a) in Jyväskylä and Jere Hurtig 'Hottentotti' (8a) in Espoo. With rope, Pasi Sjöman and Ville Mustonen have climbed 'Bruce Lee variaatio' (8a+) in Ruhankallio.
Among many hard boulders, Andy Gullsten has logged onsight of classic 'Total Brutal' (8b+) in Zillertal. This is probably the hardest ever onsight by a Finn this far. Congrats!!!
New routes in Reventeenvuori
"Two remaining unclimbed quality crack lines got their fist ascents at Reventeenvuori. The new route development at the Klassikkoainesta -sector has been paused for a long time due to access strategy, but now it was a right time to open these lines. After intensive clean-up work, Miia and Toni Fohlin opened these routes in the memory of the late Antti Ahola and Juha Hirvonen (in beautiful autumn evening sun). Routes area located in the 'memorial corner'; the next crack to the left of route 'Noora' is now 'Antti'. It goes in the Finnish grade 6/6+ with good but a little tricky to place gear all the way up, sharing the same finish with 'Noora'. Sharing the same start as 'Joukahainen' a direct line goes up from the ground, right through the small roof’s right side and follows a crack system all the way up on the left side of 'Joukahainen'. This is 'Juha' and it goes appr. 6-/6 with exellent gear all the way up to the same anchor with 'Joukahainen'. In the old topo of SKIL the route is marked with number 17.
Go climb and take a quiet moment to our beloved friends in high places while sitting at the top. Enjoy!" -Toni
'Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3' by Andy
Andy Gullsten has logged 'Unendliche Geschichte 1+2+3' (9a), which combines the boulder (parts 1+2, 8b+) with sporty three bolts upper section. The line was first climbed by a German Peter Würth on 2009.
More from Niemisel
Markus Lehtonen has also been sending hard in Niemisel. Last weekend he climbed 'När Lammen Tystnar' (8b+) and sent 'Jedi Mind Trix' (8b) on his third try. Brilliant!!
Ascents from abroad
No news from homeland but starting from the beloved western neighbour, Jari Pöllänen climbed yesterday 'Jedi Mind Trix' (8b) in Niemisel. Couple of weeks earlier Miku Kyrklund did 'Diablo' (8a) at the same spot. Andy Gullsten who has been on a road trip to Switzerland, did 2nd go ascent of 'Euporie' (8b+) in Voralpsee and several hard boulders in Sustenpass, including 'Sputnik' and 'Le Reve de Faire' (both 8b). On the other side of the globe Kata Rahikainen and Pasi Sjöman did 'Eye of the Tiger' (29, 8a). This awesome looking line situates in Muline, Grampians area, Australia.
In the middle of hot July the access hardmen Toni Fohlin and Teemu Ojala and the access hardwoman Miia Fohlin stroke again at Olhava. This time the main efforts were planned to be carried out in the so called “old end”, that is the far left sectors (1&2). The idea was to spread the climbing pressure during busy days to the other good sectors than only the “Laatta” and to have more easily accessible sectors without boats.
* Stradarotta sector and sector 1 are now connected with similar structures that can be found under Laatta
* Ikaros pillar’s start from the water/wetland is now covered with a platform
* Steroidi route’s start and 2nd pitch is re-cleaned (1st pitch’s inside corner still waits for brushing). There is also a new double bolt mid belay anchor. This underrated classic is a superb route, go and tick it!
* A new rappel line, accessible with a single rope (60m), straight down from top of the Ikaros pillar (2 rappels: 15m+30m) This is the walk-in access point to these sectors, the path from main sectors leads straightforward to top of the, easily recognizable top of Ikaros-pillar. Climb out.
* Now there are top anchors on top of Teacher and of Rolling Stones pillars
* Fallen down trees and other bush-mess cleaned from old routes in the left end sectors of the cliff
And as a big bonus Miia cleaned a pile of human shit… Yes, you got it right. From behind the “Kaari-flake”, at the tent site. For somebody the distance to the toilet is obviously too much… So sad.
The team got excellent help from visiting climbers in carrying the heavy wood material to the construction site, big thanks for that!
While climbing at Olhava, please, respect the rules (visible at the big info tables near the toilet) and behave! For the Finnish climbing community Olhava is an irreplaceable crag!
Toni, Teemu and Miia
PS. As a warm-up, Teemu did a second round re-re-clean-up mission of ”Sammalränni” which is getting now very popular and why not! -40m of sustained moderate corner climbing with great rock all the way. Btw. There as well is a new double bolt belay/rappel station.
PPS. After the work session, properly warmed up in middays hottest hours Teemu decided to give “Eklipsi” an redpoint attempt which became eventually one of the best fights that the belayer has ever seen. This time however the wall was tougher than the rock-fighter but it did not matter as Teemu got so nice battle scars that it was worth it (see the picture)!
Tragic accident in Chamonix area
Two Finnish climbers, Juha Hirvonen and Antti Ahola died yesterday in a tragic accident on a glacier of the western slopes of Aiguille de Blaitière, France. Both were motivated, talented, positive and friendly characters and it feels heart-breakingly stopping and sad that these lifes were taken much too early. Most sincere condolences to the families and the loved ones. Warm memories will remain. -rh-
New hard testpiece by Andy
Andy Gullsten opened yesterday an old project in Mustavuori. 'Post Orgasmic Depression'' starts with the steep middle groove and follows sloping crack to the left and up. The line has been bolted by Tatu Autio. The initial grade suggestion is whopping 8c. Congrats!
Early summer cranking
Starting with rope, couple from earlier spring and June: Roosa Huhtikorpi climbed 'La Sombra del Viendo' (8a) and also did couple of hardish on-sights including 'Festa Fotre' (7c) in Margalef, Spain. Markus Lehtonen climbed 'BabababaGurgur' (8a+) in Haukkamäki, Salo area and did quick work with 'One Minute Silence' (8a) in
Haukkavuori, Ruokolahti. Sauli Kiema climbed 'Wild Side' (8a) also in Haukkavuori. Timo Toivonen has climbed 'Texas Ranger' (8a+) in Ruhankallio, Tervakoski. Valtteri Pulkkinen did 'La sombra del viento' (8a) in Margalef and week back 'La Cara que no Miente' (8a+) Siurana 2nd go. Sami Koponen who moved to capital area has started to fill his Nummi tick list. This far he's dispatched at least 'Adlon' and 'Nummisuutari' (8a). Samuel Hammer has climbed 'Adlon' and 'Tornado direct' (8b) in Nummi giving personal suggestion of 8b+ for the present version with broke hold. Couple of days ago Pamu also did 'Amen break' (8b) in Mustavuori, Mäntyharju.
On boulders Ilari Kelloniemi climbed world class list of hard lines in Switzerland. The hardest include 'The Riverbed', 'Steppenwolf', 'Deep Throat' and 'Dark Sakai' all 8b. Juha Olli climbed 'Kukkoritari' (8a) in Huhtanen, Imatra, and Kuutti Huhtikorpi 'Painajainen assis' (8a) in Killeri, Tampere area. Samuel Hammer's rampage to Lökkiö resulted ascents of 'Korben Dallas' and 'Localist' (8a) among others. Sami Romppainen has opened new fantastic looking line 'The Gentle Art of Making Enemies' (8a) in Varkaus area. He also climbed 'Wicked and Weird' (8a+) in Lökkiö couple of days ago. Anssi Vehno climbed rarely repeated 'Senorita' (8a) in Vaasa. Maybe the nominee for the most hilarious fist ascent goes Andy Gullstens recent 'accidental' send of 'Kreskiano sit start' (8a) in
Hurissalo a week back. The man clearly does not know his powers... Last minute logs in 27Crags show that Axel Lindfors has climbed 'Hottentotti' (8a) in Myllis. UPDATE: Let's add 'Localist' (8a) by Sami Koponen and 'Wicked and Weird' (8a+) by Samuel Hammer from this afternoon :-)
Silbergeier by Nalle and Tomi
Nalle Hukkataival and Tomi Nytorp joined their forces and climbed 'Silbergeier' (8b/8b+) in Rätikon, Swiss alps. This is one of the hardest multipitch routes in the world offering 6 pitches of vertical and super technical climbing. The route was opened by Beat and Conny Kammerlander on 1993 and has seen only a handful of repeats. What makes this even more impressive, the route is first ever multipitch for Nalle!
During the weekend Andy Gullsten had probably the best ever on-sight sessions seen in Finland! In Haukkavuori, Rautjärvi area, he climbed following routes ALL on-sight: 'Kultakanta' (8a+), 'Wild Side' (8a), 'One Minute Silence' (8a), 'Kultakuume' (7c+, for which he suggests 8a), 'Veri Vetää Itään' (7c+) and 'Peruslager' (7b+). Whoa!!!
Matti A. Jokinen 1932-2014
The great pioneer of Finnish climbing, Matti A. Jokinen has passed away.
I knew Matti as an inspiring and diverse character who maintained his passion for climbing until the very end. His attitude convinced me and probably countless of other fellow climbers that climbing (despite of those occasional high gravity days) could be a life long journey and an unwaning joy. -rh-
8b's by Pamu and other spring ascents
This spring has offered good bouldering weather all over the Southern Finland. Routes have been repeated and personal level pushed by many climbers.
Two weeks back Samuel Hammer climbed 'One-Up' (8b) and yesterday 'Syyshämärä assis' (8b) with new beta. He has also climbed 'Totoro', 'Millyways' and 'Optical Illusion', all (8a). On April he did well with rope also by on-sighting 'La Mosca' (8a) in Montsant, Spain. Ilari Kelloniemi who has been on beast mode on all the spring, flahed yesterday 'Jack's broken heart' (8a+) in Magic Wood, Switzerland. Couple of weeks back Sauli Kiema repeated 'Jaakobin Paini' (8b+) in Nummi. Sami Koponen has been sending literally everything he touches all over Southern Finland, the hardest including 'Totoro', 'Hottentotti', 'Gluteus Maximus' and 'Paddington', all 8a. Add here sports climbs 'Buu Klubben' (8a) and first repeat of '
Hyper Mario' (7c+). Olli-Pekka Saxell has done '7 veljestä' (8a/+). Pasi 'Sjömonster' Sjöman has done heap of hard boulders including 'Optical Illusion', 'Totoro' and '7 Veljestä'. For the last he suggests personal grade of 7c as a piece has detached from the starting hold leaving a better hold to start with. Anssi Venho has climbed 'Korben Dallas' and 'Kellarijengi', both 8a. Anssi Laatikainen and Juha Paatinen climbed 'Localist' (8a) in Lökkiö. Anssi Kankkunen and Ville Mustonen did 'Unusual Suspect' (8a) and Ilkka Unkuri 'Paddington' (8a).
Niccolò Ceria in Åland
Italian powerhouse Niky Ceria has been on a two week trip to Åland (Ahvenanmaa). According to his fb-page 'Normipäivä' (8B) got it's first ascent after a hold broke and he also opened a new fantastic looking line 'Nitro' (8B) in Kasviken. Probably a story coming shortly to his blog.
Anthony Gullsten took part in Melloblocco, a yearly bouldering event in Val di Mello and Val Masio, Italy. The event has been organized since 2004 and has become increasingly popular year by year. Among casual climbing there's a competition where the climbers try to climb as many of the named testpieces as possible. Andy placed the shared first position with 6 climbed problems in a very hard company. Check the details in the pages of Melloblocco. In video Andy sending one of the problems 'Il Cappone'.
'Hypergravity' (8b) in a session by Ilari
Ilari Kelloniemi has been having super strong spring. Yesterday he managed to climb 'Hypergravity' (8b) in Sipoo in a session. This was the first ascent after a hold breakage. He also flashed 'Isildur assis' (7c+). A week back Ilari hit Lökkiö area, where he did 'Wicked and Weird' (8a+) 3rd go, 'Localist' (8a), 'Korben Dallas' (8a) 2nd go and flashed 'Molester' (7c+).
'Jungle Speed' (9a) in a session by Andy
Despite of warm weather, Andy Gullsten has climbed 'Jungle Speed' (9a) in one session! The route situates in sector La Capella, Siurana. Couple of days earlier he flashed 'Cronica' (8b) in sector L'Olla.
Andy has been on the road now for about a month. On the way to south he has stopped in
Fontainebleau where he did lines such as 'La Théorie des Jeux' (8b) and 'Big Dragon' (8a+). In Switzerland he did 'Heritage' (8b+) and a proper heap of 8b's such as 'No mistery after break', 'Schule des Lebens after break', 'General Disarray', 'Santoku', 'Kings of sonlerto' and 'The crack line'. Impressive indeed!
This is Kovasikajuttu
Long-term routesetter Sami Romppainen has opened probably the hardest boulder line in Savo. 'Kovasikajuttu' starts with about 10 reachy compression moves on a 40-50 degrees overhang and follows an easy crack of about 4 meters to the top. All in all there are over 20 moves from start to the top of the 8 meters high boulder. The end part of the route goes between two stones over a ravine so falling is not an option here. Sami feels that the grade is somewhere at 8a/8a+ range and he's not hesitant to say that the line is among the finest in Finland at this grade level. By knowing Sami's eye for quality lines and by looking the photos this is easy to agree with!
'Ramadan' (8b) in a session by Anna
Anna Laitinen and Samuel Hammer have been having a good start for their trip to Spanish sports crags. On the first day they both did 'Memorias de una sepia' (8a) in sector Siuranella, Siurana. The route was flashed by Samuel. Today Anna sent 'Ramadan' (8b) in a session! Probably more hard sends to come...
Jari's Own Rules
Jari Koski has opened a new great sports climb in Elimäki area. 'Omat Säännöt' (own rules) situates in Ytmäki and offers > 10 meters of physical and technical climbing on slightly overhanging wall. Initial suggestion for the grade is 8a which probably isn't far from the truth. This is Jari's second testpiece in the area after excellent 'Half Century' (8a) in Rotkokallio. His creation 'Vanha Soturi' (7c+/8a range) from last summer is still waiting for the first repeat. The line situates in Askola, north from Porvoo.
'Entre dos Caminos' (8a) flash by Kata
Katariina Rahikainen has been having very productive climbing days in Spain. Yesterday she became probably the first Finnish woman to flash 8th grade by doing 'Entre dos Caminos' (8a)in Chulilla. She also did 'La Quebranta' (7c+) on 2nd go. Other good climbs from the past days include onsights of 'Super Zeb' (7c) also in Chulilla, and 'Scala Dei' (7c) in Montsant. Nice!!!
To every climbers delight, season has started earlier than expected (although, for some it never really ended)! Season's first hard FA was done by Andy Gullsten, who opened a sit start to 'Fatman' establishing 'Fat chicks can't jump!' (8a+) in Hilatien kattokivi, Kirkkonummi. Abroad Anton Johansson did 'The Great Shark Hunt' (8b) in Chironico third go. Jani Lehtola has climbed ultra-classic 'Karma' (8a+) in Cuisinière, Fontainebleau and Sauli Kiema 'Kirk Windstein' (8a+) and 'Miss Schweitz' (8a) in Cresciano.
'Gioia' (8c+) by Nalle!
Nalle Hukkataival has this evening sent 'Gioia' (8c+), one of the most iconic and extreme testpieces in the world of bouldering! The line situates in Varazze, Italy, and was opened by Christian Core on 2008. This far it has seen only one repeat by Adam Ondra on 2011. Hopefully a video to come. Madly inspiring! Congrats!!!
Bouldering Finnish Championships in Kuopio
The competition took place today and thaks to a smooth and high quality video streaming, everyone could enjoy the event even from a home sofa. Arrangements by Voema team and routes by Tomi Nytorp seemed to be top-notch!
Female podium: 1. Roosa Huhtikorpi (4/4 flashed!), 2. Katariina Haime, 3. Anitra Taskinen. Male podium: 1. Anthony Gullsten (again, 4/4 flashed), 2. Ilari Kelloniemi, 3. Sami Koponen. Congratulations! Detailed results from the finals here and from qualifications here. The results include also senior male and female categories.
A good day for Kata!
Katariina Rahikainen managed to send two of her projects in Oliana today. The routes 'Michi' and 'Mon Dieu' took both 6-7 days of work but were sent on a same day. And yes, they are not just a walk in the park but 8a and 8a+ respectively. Congrats!
Kata has been having very good winter trip to Middle and Southern Europe. She has done several eighth grade routes, the hardest this far being 'Flix Flax' (8a+) in Terradets.
BK Isatis opening comp
Assortment of choises for an indoor climber grew even bigger in capital area as the new BK Isatis opened it's doors last weekend in Mekaanikonkatu 15, Herttoniemi. The hall offers big variety of bouldering profiles with a huge overhanging prow not seen in any Finnish climbing gyms before. The other services include cafe, gear shop, yoga, conference rooms, sauna etc. Rather complete package one would say!
The opening competition on Saturday gathered 200 climbers. Categories were many and the results can be found here. For a set of great photos surf here (photos by Juha Immonen).
Enni Bertling took exquisite 6th position in an ice climbing competition arranged beside Kandersteg Ice Climbing Festival, Switzerland. Check the detailed results here.
'Escalatamàsters' (9a) by Tomi
Fortunately the previous news update was not the year's last after all! Tomi Nytorp is back in business after some serious elbow troubles. During a turn of the year -trip to Spain, he has visited Perles and managed to climb 'Escalatamàsters' (9a). According to Tomi, he studied the moves three times and managed to sent the line on his second redpoint try. This was Tomi's second 9a after 'La Cabane au Canada' on summer 2012. Congratulations!!
Perles situates on the southern slopes of Pyrenees nearby Oliana and the actual line is described in the topo as follows: "Beautiful rock arch of Pont de l'arc host one of the most awesome-looking climbs in the region: the amazing and rarely repeated 'Escalatamàsters'".
...with year's last news summary.
Sends with rope: Katariina Rahikainen has done 'La Cucina d'Inferno' (8a) in sector Massone, Arco (Italy) and in sector Bruixes, Terradets (Spain) both 'Bon Viatge' (8a) and 'Latido del Miedo' (8a). On boulders, Anssi Laatikainen has climbed 'El Varano' (8a) and 'Zarzamora' (8a) in Albarracin (Spain). Nalle Hukkataival has visited Red Rocks in Nevada and climbed hard as usual. Check the details in Nalle's blog.
Results from some of the year's last competitions have been hard to find but here are some anyway from Paja Open vol. 001 and Asemaboulder 2013. Oulu Open 2013 results from early November still missing.
Kisanjärjestäjille tiedoksi: slouppi.net mielellään kertoo myös kisatulokset. Kun nyt edelleen näette sloupin hyväksi kanavaksi levittää tietoa tulevista kisoista niin kannattaa jälkikäteen lähettää myös tuloslista tai ainakin linkki saitille mistä tulokset löytyvät. Tulokset julkaistaan suurella varmuudella ja yleensä pienemmällä viiveellä :-) Hyvää joulua!
Results from Kalakukkoboulder
Male podium: Sami Koponen, Antti Kontio and Jere Hurtig. Female: Helmi Puustinen, Sanna Leppänen and Marianne Lalli. Congrats! All results and photos here.
End season ascents
Couple of boulder ascents before start of the indoor season in Finland: Timo Toivonen climbed 'Painajainen assis' (8a) in Nokia couple of weeks ago. Ilari Kelloniemi has climbed 'Houdini assis' (8b) in Långholmen, Stockholm area. Andy Gullsten and Nalle Hukkataival were on a trip to Austria. Andy did lines such as 'The Power of Goodbye' (8b) and 'Power Break' (8a+). Unfortunately Nalles main target, a sit start to 'Bügeleisen' ('silitysrauta' in finnish) was wet but he opened ‘High highs and low lows’ (8a) and did also 'Power Break' and 'Black Jack' (both 8a+). Better luck next time with Bügeleisen! Samuel Hammer did 'Sundance sit' (8a+) in Ginzling Wald, also in Austria.
On September Haukkavuori in Rautjärvi got two new sports lines. 'Malo' by Tatu Autio and 'One Minute Silence' by Jani Lunnas both check in at 8a or harder range.
Results from Talviaika Open
Top three in men: Anton Johansson, Ilari Kelloniemi and Elias Silvola. Women: Katariina Haime, Niini Vartia and Helmi Puustinen. Congrats! Detailed results here (in pdf-format). The venue was Bouldertehdas in Turku.
'The Globalist' (8b+) by Anton
Anton Johansson has today made the second repeat of Nalle Hukkataival testpiece 'The Globalist' (8b+) in Sipoo. The route was opened on 2009 and has this far seen only one repeat (Andy Gullsten 2011). Congratulations!
Results from Boulder NM & Tampere
Andy Gullsten took gold yesterday in Bouldering Nordic championships in Stockholm. Ilari Kelloniemi placed fourth. On female side Anna Laitinen placed fourth and Eevi Jaakkola fifth. Congratulations! Detailed results here.
A week back in Nekala Masters, Tampere, Joonas Selänniemi collected the biggest heap of points. Katariina Haime, Niini Vartia and Anitra Taskinen all collected equal amount of points on the female side. Results here.
Anton keeps going!
Anton Johansson has today made a fast ascent to 'Keep Going' (8c) in sector Kalydna, Kalymnos. The route has been opened by wonder kid Alexander Megos on 2009. Congrats!!!
Sisu Masters 2013
Sisu Masters by Toyota Kiipeilyareena was the first real international challenge competitition arranged in Finland. Our best male and female boulderers were testing their skills against some of the best in the world. This was not all: the day started with an open comp where the Areena's shiny new bouldering facility was run in and ended to a party with some well known performers. As you can imagine, all incredients for a good whole day social climbing experience were present and the outcome did not leave you dissappointed.
What comes to the publicity, no other climbing event in Finland has been promoted this much beforehand. The event got good pre coverage in several newspapers, radio channels and even in tv. Tickets were sold out well before Saturday but fortunately live stream was available for everyone who could not come to the spot.
Routes in the challenge comp were built by the participants and thereby presented more or less the climbers individual strengths. For this reason climbing was diversified and enjoyable to watch! Results: Men: 1. Nalle Hukkataival, 2. Anthony Gullsten, 3. Kilian Fischhuber, 4. Dave Graham - Women: 1. Mélissa Le Nevé, 2. Anna Stöhr, 3. Anna Laitinen, 4. Eevi Jaakkola.
Results of the open competition can be found here (in pfd-format). The winners were Ilari Kelloniemi and Roosa Huhtikorpi. More information about the whole event in the pages of Sisu Masters and Facebook. The video stream of the challenge comp can be replayed here.
Many thanks for the arrangement team for an excellent and successfull event! Hopefully this will become some kind of a tradition.
Hard flashes and sends
Recent impressive flash sends: Ilari Kelloniemi
has flashed 'Helboy' and 'Kaamos' both (7c+) in Viidakkokalliot, Espoo. In addition, he has done quick work with 'Unusual suspect' (8a), 'Hattivatti' (8a) and 'Hottentotti assis' (8a+) in Myllis. Olli Antikainen did also 'Unusual Suspect'. Sami Koponen flashed 'Molester' (7c+) and 'Svetogorsk' (7b+) in Lökkiö area, Puumala. Nice!!
More girl power in Nummi
Anna Laitinen and Mina Jokivirta have both climbed 'Adlon' (8a) in Nummi. Anna did the line couple of weeks back and Mina last Thursday. These were most probably the first female ascents to this crimpy route.
'Desperado' (8b) by Jani
Jani Lehtola has opened a new very hard route in Luohua block, Oulu area. 'Desperado' (8b) has independent start and it shares the same end with 'Fat Hippo'. Congratulations!!
Sends from past weeks
Boulders: Jani Lehtola has repeated Sami Haapakoski's 'Veni, Vidi, Vici' (8a) in Ängesby, Sweden. Matti Uurtamo has sent 'Nambla' (8a) in Hiidenkirnut, Tuomo Lankinen, Marko Kauko and Anssi Venho repeated 'Localist' (8a) in Lökkiö. On a roped side Anssi Kankkunen has repeated 'Matador' (8a) in Falkberget, Kirkkonummi.
Northern sends by Anton and Sauli
Anton Johansson and Sauli Kiema had a couple of days bouldering trip to north. During the stop in Pyhäntä
they did the first and second repeat of Jani Lehtola's testpiece 'No Man's Land standing start' (8a). In Ängesby
Sweden Anton repeated Sami Haapakoski's 'Veni, Vidi, Vici' (8a) and opened a sit-start version which adds 2 moves to the start and checks in at 8a+.
Once again the weekend offered good climbing weather and several hard ascents were completed. Samuel Hammer bagged the third and Markus Lehtonen fourth ascent of 'Mestari Globulus
' (8b) in Mustavuori. Pamu also flashed 'Tohtori Gaussin Käyrä' (7c) on the same cliff. Last week he added a hard direct end variation to 'Super Mario' (7a+) in Pickala, Kirkkonummi. 'Hyper Mario' checks in at 7c+. During the weekend Mikko Mäkelä bagged his first 8b, 'A Day in Life' in Niemisel, Sweden. Congrats!!!
On the ropeless side, another strong youngster Sami Koponen repeated 'Atlantis' (8a), a steep test piece by Sami Romppainen in northern Savo. On Saturday he visited new hot-spot Huhtanen in Imatra and opened 'Kukkoritari' (8a) which adds 4 moves to the start of 'Dark Knight' (7c+).
Results from Junior NC difficulty
Finnish highlights from weekend's event in Kiipeilyareena: Junior boys: 1st Elias Silvola, 2nd Sami Koponen. Youth A boys: 1st Samuel Hammer. Youth B girls: Helmi Puustinen. Complete results here.
Bouldering European championships were competed at the same time in Eindhoven (NED). Andy Gullsten and Anna Laitinen took part and placed 23rd and 28th respectively. Results here.
Globulus first repeat by Andy
Last Saturday Andy Gullsten made the first repeat of 'Mestari Globulus' (8b) in Mustavuori, Mäntyharju. The route was opened on 2010 by Rami Haakana. Previous weekend Ville Mustonen climbed
'Texas Ranger' (8a+) in Ruhankallio, Tervakoski.
Mustang (8a) trad by Anu Korosuo
Yet again a step up in Finnish climbing standards: Anu Korosuo is the first Finnish woman to bag an 8a trad ascent! The route was 'Mustang' in Cadarese, Italy! Read the amazing story in Saku's blog.
Markus in Niemisel
Markus Lehtonen is in a strong form which he put into a good use in Niemisel about a week back. Highlights include 'A Day in a Life' (8b), 'Diabolic Feelings (8a+) and 'Swing It' (8a/+).
Andy Gullsten has yesterday opened a new hard test piece in Mustavuori, Mäntyharju. The line in question was bolted years ago by Joonas Sailaranta and offers jamming and compression moves on a continuous 45 plus degrees overhang. The route got named 'Kansannousu' (8b+). In addition to this, Andy also made probably the first repeat to 'Amen Break' (8b) and last Saturday he bagged 'Oma Planeetta' (8a+) in Olhava. Strikingly impressive!!
Andy has also logged an ascent that he hinted about in social media: on end of June he opened 'Mr. Hyde' (8c+) in sector Biografie, Céüse. Whoa!
'Integratron' by Kari Holkko
Kari Holkko has climbed his hard project in Karahonganvuori, Orivesi. 'Integratron' gets a grade suggestion 7c+/8a. Story and photos about the labour pains in Rannari. Congrats!!
'Mustang' (8a trad) by Saku and other ascents
Saku Korosuo has sent yet another bad ass trad line, 'Mustang' (8a), in Cadarese, Italy. Check the story in Saku's blog. Nice!!! Sami Koponen has opened an old project in Vuorivaara, Joensuu area. 'Jatkuva Hulluus' checks in at 8a. Other recent ascents: during his competition trip to Imst, Samuel Hammer sent 'Fortuna' (8b) in Nassereith, Austria and Ilari Kelloniemi has sent both 'Sulttaani' (8a+), Nummi and 'Buu-klubben' (8a) in Siuntio.
'Turkey Crack' by Saku
Saku Korosuo has bagged probably the third ascent to 'Turkey Crack' (8a), a delicious looking offwidth roof crack in Cadarese, Italy. Story and photos of this alluring line in Saku's blog, Haukkari. Super inspiring!
Anssi Venho had a rewarding visit in Nummi last Saturday as he sent both of his projects 'Nummisuutari' (8a) and 'Adlon' (8a) during the same evening. Last week Ilari Kelloniemi sent also 'Nummisuutari' and 'Sheriffi' (8a) and previous week 'Adlon' in Nummi.
'Syncro' (8c+) by Pamu!
Samuel Hammer sent today 'Syncro' (8c+) which is known as the hardest sports climb in our country! Big congratulations!!
It's remarkable that despite his young age (15 years) Pamu has already bagged almost all the sports testpieces as well as big pile of 8th grade boulders in Finland. He sent his first 8c 'Waldläufer' in Niederthai only a month back. Impressive!
This was the fourth ascent to Syncro which btw situates in Nummi, was freed by Tomi Nytorp on 2006 and has seen repeats by Christian Bindhammer and Andy Gullsten. The line was bolted by Henrik Suihkonen.
'Jaakobin Paini' (8b+) by Anton
Last weekend Anton Johansson climbed 'Jaakobin Paini' (8b+) in Nummi. Congrats!
Past weeks climbs
Pasi Sjöman has continued his strong season by climbing 'Sulttaani' (8a+) for which he suggests personal grade 8b - as did Samuel Hammer. Andy Gullsten has repeated 'Fors Fortuna' (8a+) also in Nummi. Olli-Petteri Manni has repeated 'Presente' in Bohuslän, Sweden. This steep off-width crack is graded only 6+ (!) but has a reputation of being one of the hardest off-widths in the world. OPM's ascent was probably the 4th overall! Good work!!! Samuel Hammer and Sami Koponen have returned from Austria. Highlights from the rest of the trip: 'Ares' (8a+) in Götterwandl by both, 'Wargames' (8a+) in Niederthai by Pamu and 'Sator' (8a) on a way back in Örnberget, Stockholm, by both.
On a bouldering side, Kuutti Huhtikorpi is on a long road trip and located in Australia at the moment. Couple of days back he logged an exhaustive tick list with couple of hard test-pieces like 'Ammagamma' (8b), 'Cave Bitch' (8a+) and 'Sleepy Hollow' (8a+), all in the Grampians area. Anssi Laatikainen has repeated 'Stalker in The Horizon' (8a) in sector Rhino, South Africa. Sami Haapakoski has added a new line 'Veni, Vidi, Vici' (8a) to Ängesbyn, Luleå area, Sweden.
'Sheriffi' (8a) by Mina and Anna
Mina Jokivirta and Anna Laitinen continued the series of hard female sends with 'Sheriffi' (8a) in Nummi cliff last Wednesday. To Mina this was the first 8a so congrats! Quoting a friend, Mina and Tomi are getting rather high in the official 'average grade of couples' ranking...
Sheriffi is a sweet combination of crimping, crack holds, longish moves and intensive sequences on an appealing Nummi angle. It's one of the first 8th grade lines in Finland, and - as most lines on the cliff - free'd by Henrik Suihkonen.
Hard sends in Finland and Austria
Pasi Sjöman repeated Martin Nugents's praised 'Kära Dagbok' (8b) in Siuntio just before the Midsummer heat wave. The young guns Samuel Hammer and Sami Koponen have continued their trip to Austria where the going seems to get tougher day by day. Sami climbed his personal best by first sending 'Odysseus' (8b) and two days later 'Uranus' (8b) in Götterwandl, Nassereith. Samuel did these and also 'Blasius' (8b+). Impressive!!
'The Understanding' by Nalle
Nalle Hukkataival has free'ed famous and very longstanding project in Magic Wood. 'The Understanding' has no public grade suggestion yet. See the details in Nalle's blog. Super inspiring!
Nalle Hukkataival has tied in and made a quick repeat of Markus Bock's 'Bucking Bronco' (8c+) in sector Nago, Arco. He also flashed some 8b. Samuel Hammer and Sami Koponen are at the momenti in Austria where Samuel has climbed 'Masada' (8b) and 'Boulderstelle' (8a) in Niederthai and 'Dynamischer Exorzist' (8a+) in Astlehn, Ötztal. Sami has climbed 'Wargames' (8a+), 'Twilight Zone' (8a) and 'Boulderstelle' (8a) also in Niederthai.
In Finland Ville Koskela has freed a stiff project in Neulaniemi, Kuopio area. Ascent of 'Fail Compilation' (8a at least) was also caught on film. See below!
Anna Laitinen has pushed Finnish women's climbing standards one step higher by redpointing 'Estrella' (8b) in Nummi cliff today! Anna has tried the route on one session last year and couple of times this season. On her best attempt she fell once below the anchor before successfull redpoint. Huge congratulations! 'Estrella' is known as the first 8b graded route in Finland and was established late 90's by Henrik Suihkonen.
Anton Johansson made it to the semi's in the bouldering world cup comp in Toronto past weekend. His final position was 20th. Detailed results here.
'Jonestown Massacre' (8a) by Eevi
Eevi Jaakkola has stepped into 8th level by sending 'Jonestown Massacre' (8a) in Fiskars area last Friday. Congratulations! Samuel Hammer climbed the line couple of days earlier.
Last Sunday Olli-Petteri Manni free'd an old aid route 'The Nenä' (A3/A3+) in the north-east sector of Pärkänvuori, Uusikaupunki. Check the inspiring video about the ascent below!
'Kära Dagbok' (8b) by Markus
Couple of days back Markus Lehtonen climbed Martin Nugent's test piece 'Kära Dagbok' (8b) in Siuntio. Yesterday Koji Moriwaki repeated 'Matador' (8a) in Falkberget. Congratulations to both!
Climbing World Cup (B) in Innsbruck
Andy Gullsten climbed again into the semifinals in the bouldering world cup Innsbruck past weekend. His final position was 21st. Anton Johansson placed 51st. No finnish female participants this time. See the detailed results here.
Hard repeats by Pamu, Antti and Andy
Samuel Hammer climbed yesterday 'Jaakobin Paini' (8b+) on fourth go in Nummi. The route was established by Henrik Suihkonen on 2001 and this was probably the second repeat after a hold broke from the upper crux. Andy Gullsten did the first repeat last year. Antti Ahola has also been doing hard (first) repeats. Week back he climbed a bold trad line 'Cro Magnon' (7b/c) in Olhava and yesterday another trad line 'Jäähyväiset vasaroille' (7c/+) in Perskallio, Kärkölä. On Mayday Andy Gullsten flashed 'Toyboy' (8a) and repeated 'BabababaGurgur' (8a+) in Haukkamäki, Salo area.
'Speed' by Tomi
Tomi Nytorp climbed yesterday a rarely repeated classic 'Speed' (8c+) in Voralpsee, Switzerland. He worked the route on three days last week and made the first two redpoint attempts on Saturday, getting within couple of moves from the top. On Sunday he was about to give up as the two first attempts were bad, skin getting thin, forearms empty and return flight leaving in couple of hours. Fortunately on third go everything snapped together and the route got done! Congrats!
'Speed' is about 30 meters high, 10 degrees overhanging and was opened by Beat Kammerlander on 1995. At that time the line was among the very hardest in the world. Climbing can be described as technical and very pumpy.
Climbing World Cup (B) in Kitzbühel
Andy Gullsten took part in a Climbing World Cup (bouldering) in Kitzbühel this weekend. He qualified to the semi-finals on a shared 9th position in his qualification group with 4 flashes. The final palcement after semi's was 16th. Nice!! Detailed results here.
Olhava is ready for Mayday
A message from the Olhava access correspondent and jack-of-all-trades Toni Fohlin:
"Olhava toivottaa Wappu-kiipeilijät tervetulleiksi. Veneet saatiin vesille tällä kertaa viime viikonloppuna, tosin järvi oli vielä tiukasti jäässä... mutta olkoot säät suosiolliset viikon kuluttua. Hyvää kiipeilykautta ja muistakaa kohdella veneitä kuin omianne; tulpat auki lähtiessä ja veneet niin ylös rannalle, että tyhjentyvät sadevedestä yms. Kiitos!"
In English: "Olhava welcomes summer season in. Boats are in use, please take care of them. Leave the hull cork open when you leave in order to let rainwater drain out etc. Thank you and have a good climb!"
Ilari Kelloniemi has been in Spain where he did several routes in eight level. In Margalef he did 'El Fustigador' (8a+) and 'Dando brea' (8a) and in Terradets 'Flix Flax' (8a+) and 'Bon Viatge' (8a). Roosa Huhtikorpi did her 1st 8a by also climbing 'Viatge'. Congratulations! Ilari also flashed 'Energia Positiva' (7c+) which got 2nd go ascent by Maria Skyttä.
Before leaving to spain, Ilari did 'Hottentotti' (8a) in Myllis. Markus Lehtonen has climbed '7 veljestä' (8a+) and Pasi Sjöman 'Kaamos' (8a) giving personal grade 7c+. Week back Ville Koskela did 'Forte Risoluto' (8a) in a session.
About two weeks back Andy Gullsten and Nalle Hukkataival returned from Maltatal, Austria. Andy did 'Wrestling with an Alligator' (8b) plus heap of other lines above 8a, which you can check from his tick-list. In the same location Nalle did second repeat to 'Bügeleisen' (8b+), an old Klem Loskot classic. See Nalle's tick list here.
Sami takes gold in Nordic Junior championships
Today Sami Koponen from Joensuu took gold in the bouldering Nordic Championships in Lillehammer, Norge. Big congratulations! Elias silvola was the other Finn to get into the finals in the Juniors category placing fifth overall. Another finnish finalists: Samuel Hammer 4th (Youth A boys), Katariina Haime 3rd, Anitra Taskinen 4th (Youth A girls). Detailed results here.
'Unbreakable' (8b) by Sami
Sami Haapakoski opened today a new boulder line which undoubtedly belongs to the hardest in Finland! 'Unbreakable' (8b) situates at 7 Veljestä boulder in Nurmijärvi and is basically a sit start to 'Paholainen direct'. It starts with left hand on a very low pinch and right hand on an undercling. From here on it gets straight up via the starting sloper of 'Paholainen'. Strong!!
Other ascents: 'Hottentotti' (8a) in Myllis has got 3 ascents in few days by Jani Lehtola, Kuutti Heikkilä and Pasi Sjöman. Samuel Hammer made the first repeat to Sami's new variation reported in the previous news. The line 'My Cock Rages On' gets personal beta and thereby personal grade suggestion of 7c+ by Pamu.
Still lots of snow around but chilly and dry weather has allowed good conditions for hard boulder sends. Today Samuel Hammer sent ´7 veljestä' (8a+) in Nurmijärvi. About a week back he repeated 'Hattivatti' (8a) in Myllis. In the same place Sami Haapakoski has repeated 'Hottentotti assis' (8a+) and added a new hard (8a?) variation to the line, starting from the small ledge right side. Two days back Andy Gullsten climbed 'Paskapäivä' and 'Drakguld' (both 8a) in Grottan, Åland. Ilari Kelloniemi did also 'Paskapäivä' and 'Dodo assis' (8a+). A week back Ville Koskela from Kuopio (ex Tampere resident) did 'Fat Hippo' (8a) in Luohua.
Results from Boulder Finnish Championships 2013
1. Anton Johansson
2. Tomi Nytorp
3. Kuutti Huhtikorpi
4. Anthony Gullsten
5. Ilari Kelloniemi
6. Sami Koponen
1. Eevi Jaakkola
2. Anna Laitinen
3. Roosa Huhtikorpi
4. Katariina Haime
5. Henrika Niemi
6. Anitra Taskinen
Tomi Nytorp and Mina Jokivirta spent their Christmas holiday climbing in Northern Spain, more exactly in Siurana
and Terradets. During the trip Tomi managed to on-sight all 8a and harder routes he tried, 7 in total! The hardest were 'Formula Weekend L1+L2' (8a+) and 'Tirabolts' (8a+), both in Paret de les Bruixes, Terradets. Tomi has managed to on-sight this grade earlier on 2010 when he did 'Gare au Grand Gourou' in Vallee du Giffre, France. More details in the next Kiipeilylehti.
Freerider by Adrian & co
Adrian Pollard has written a nice trip report of an attempt to 36 pitch 'Freerider' in Yosemite valley (October 2012). Check it out!
Asemaboulder 2012 results
Results from yesterday's Asemaboulder event can be found
here (in pdf-format). Despite of snapping his pulley in qualifications, Andy Gullsten was superior in the male category. On the female side the first position was taken by Anna Laitinen with a small margin to Eevi Jaakkola. Congratulations to the winners and thanks to the arranging team for super nice routes and event!
Finnish Climbing Association (SKIL) has published a reprint of Matti A. Jokinen's sold out classic 'Alppien Seinämillä'. See the details and information about availability in the pages of SKIL.
Results from Youth Lead NC
Youth Lead Nordic Champiohsips were competed in Solna Klättercenter, Stockholm past weekend. Elias Silvola (Kruxi, Turku) took gold in the Juniors category. Other podium placements: Sami Koponen 3rd (Youth A) and Ines Fager 3rd (Juniors). Congratulations! Detailed results here.
Last Saturday offered several options to choose from as in addition to the Tofuboulder event, there was 'Hakkuhuukkailu' drytooling contents for those who preferred outdoor air. Ossi Eskola has written a very nice blog posting
about the event (in Finnish). Check it out!
The winner of the contest was a strong all-around climber Antti Ahola who had actually had only four sessions with ice axes before the event. The second was Adrian Pollard and third Tapio Alhonsuo.
Tofuboulder 2012 results
Podium male: 1st Andy Gullsten (all 51 routes in 1.5 hours!), 2nd Kuutti Huhtikorpi, shared 3rd Ilari Kelloniemi and Sergey Prikhodko. Podium female: 1st Niini Vartia, 2nd Roosa Huhtikorpi, 3rd Eevi Jaakkola. Detailed results here. Thanks to Boulderkeskus for an excellent event!
Results from Lead Finnish Championships
1. Andy Gullsten
2. Kuutti Huhtikorpi
3. Sampo Kiesiläinen
4. Kuutti Heikkilä
5. Sami Haapakoski
6. Tuukka Kaipainen
7. Elias Silvola
1. Anna Laitinen
2. Roosa Huhtikorpi
3. Katariina Rahikainen
4. Mina Jokivirta
5. Katariina Haime
6. Minna Ruokonen
7. Eevi Jaakkola
8. Maria Skyttä
The venue was Tapanilan Kiipeilykeskus and the main route setter Tomi Nytorp. Detailed results including the youth categories here. Congratulations to the winners!
Marko Kauko has re-climbed 'Marvin' after the starting jug broke. As expected, the route is now a stiffer and the grade probably around 8a+. Another Jyväskylä area testpiece 'Paddington' (8a/+) got also recently ticked by Marko.
Anssi Venho and Sauli Kiema had a good trip Västervik area last weekend. During 3 days the guys climbed 'Awake the Unkind' (8a+), 'Dillerium' (8a) and 'The Office SDS' (8a). Kuutti Huhtikorpi did 'Dillerium' on previous Tuesday. In the capital area Andy Gullsten flashed 'Kaamos' (8a) in Viidakkokalliot, suggesting personal grade 7c+.
Octoberfest in boulders
Past couple of months have been very rainy but fortunately there has been dry days in between. Andy Gullsten did the first repeat of 'Bob Marley' (8a+) in Pirunpesä in Turku area and opened 'Legoland' (8a) in Nousiainen. He has also repeated 'Korben Dallas' (8a) and 'Localist' (8a) in Lökkiö area, Eastern Finland. Anton Johansson tore apart Pinsiö by sending 'Painajainen ss' (8a) 2nd go and by flashing several 7c/+'s. See the inspiring video here. Samuel Hammer managed to send his project in Viidakkokalliot last Saturday. 'Kaamos' (8a) was quickly repeated by Anton who confirmed the grade and praised the quality of the route. During their competition trip to Jyväskylä, Sami Koponen and Elias Silvola repeated 'Forte' (8a) in Muuratsalo.
As most of the higher cliffs have been wet lately, Samuel Hammer chose to spent his autumn holiday in Austria and Germany. A bad flapper did not slow him down and he managed to send impressive amount of hard lines including 'Double big mac' (8a+) in Öztal, 'Metamorphose' (8a+) and 'Ötztal Szene' (8a) in Piburger See, 'Shir Kan Direct' (8a) in Chinesische Mauer, 'Schlachtruf' (8a) in Frankenjura and 'Twilight Zone' (8a) in Niederthai.
Results from Talviaika Open 2012
Detailed results from the Talviaika Open 2012 can be found here (in pdf-format). Participation has been very good! Podium male: Andy Gullsten, Kuutti Huhtikorpi, Elias Silvola. Podium female: Anna Laitinen, Niini Vartia, Katariina Haime. Congrats!
'Kylmää kiveä' - The story of Finnish climbing
Blue Kangoo Films has released a trailer of 'Kylmää kiveä' ('Cold stone'), an upcoming document film about the past and present of Finnish climbing. The crew behind the camera and production table consists of two experienced climbers and filmmakers, Tommy Vänskä and Ville Kurru. The trailer saw it's first public presentation in Reel Rock Tour last weekend and it is now available in Vimeo for all interested. A real cultural act for climbing so better check this out! A version with English subtitles also available.
Good amount of climbers gathered together on Saturday in Tampereen Kiipeilykeskus, the venue for the first open bouldering competition this fall. Detailed results can be found here. Andy Gullsten, Elias Silvola and Ville Koskela shared the podium in male category. Niini Vartia, Mina Jokivirta and Katariina Haime collected the biggest heap of points in female category. Congratulations!
Anton repeats 'Monumentti'
Anton Johansson did quick job with 'Monumentti' (8b) in Pihlajasaari. After checking the moves on top rope, Anton sent the route on his first or second go! He also started the line one move lower than the first ascentionists. Good work!
See the previous news item about the first ascent.
New testpieces in Pihlajasaari
Andy Gullsten and Nalle Hukkataival tore Pihlajasaari into pieces and climbed couple of old projects in a very short session. 'Monumentti' (8b) was opened by Andy and was repeated straight after by Nalle. All in all the line took only one our from both! The line is very high quality and one of the proudest in Helsinki. The easier 'Seurapiirisankari' (7c) took only couple of tries from both. Nice!!!
Results from Nordic Championships
Male podium: Erik Grandelius (SWE), Anthony Gullsten (FIN) and Magnus Högström (SWE). Female podium: Tina Johansen Hafsaas (NOR), Malin Holmberg (SWE) and Anna Gärdsmo (SWE). Final positions of the Finnish participants will be added here when the full result list becomes available.
UPDATE: Tomi Nytorp 4th, Olli-Petteri Manni 7th, Matilda Nordman 6th and Anna Laitinen 7th. Results from the finals here. Qualification results to be added later.
Jari sends 'Nambla'
On Sunday Jari Pöllänen climbed his first 8a graded boulder 'Nambla' in Hiidenkirnut, Rovaniemi. What's even more noteworthy, we've seen some photo evidece that crimpmeister Jari actually openhanded some of the holds;-) Congrats! On the same day Jani Lehtola made the second repeat of a bit morpho 'Midi assis' (8a) in the same location.
On Monday Anssi Venho did 'Texas Ranger' (8a+) in Ruhankallio. Björn Isomaa climbed his first 8a grade route 'Matador' in Falkberget on Sunday. Congratulations!
'Kära Dagbok' by Sami
'Kära Dagbok' (8b) in Siuntio got another repeat by Sami Haapakoski last Thursday. This route seems to become season's another popular testpiece along with 'Texas Ranger'!
'Kära Dagbok' gets 2 ascents in one day
Both Kuutti Huhtikorpi and Samuel Hammer climbed today 'Kära Dagbok' (8b) in Siuntio. This line was established by Martin Nugent on 2008 and it has a reputation of being hard for the grade.
Other hard ascents: on Saturday Pasi Sjöman climbed 'Half Century' (8a) in Rotkokallio and Olli-Petteri Manni 'Wild Side' (8a) 2nd go in Haukkavuori. He barely missed onsight of 'Kultakanta' (8a+) but got both 'Veri Vetää Itään' (7c/+) and 'Peruslager' (7b+) onsights! A week ago Samuel Hammer climbed 'Sheriffi' (8a) in Nummi and Mikko Mäkelä 'Buu-Klubben' (8a) in Siuntio. On Tuesday Osmo Aspi repeated yet another hard boulder line 'Sirkuspapukaija' (8a) in Luohua.
'Amen Break' by Rami
"On Saturday we witnessed Rami Haakana send his longstanding project at Mustavuori, Mäntyharju. This was the first hard line bolted already in 2007. Several years Rami tried to solve the moves on this route without success and especially linking the hard boulder in the middle of the route turned out to be a problem. This year some extra training on the bouldering wall helped and a few weeks ago he was able to link the crux for the first time.
Rami named the route 'Amen Break' and graded it 8b. He says it might feel easier for taller climbers but knowing how much time Rami has invested in the route, the grade should be solid. The stone quality of this route is perfect granite and it never is wet, too.
2 years ago Rami made the first ascent of 'Mestari Globulus
' so he is the father of the 2 hardest routes in Mustavuori. 'Mestari Globulus' has not been repeated yet and climbers who have tried it, feel that it is very hard for its 8b grade.
Big congrats to Rami!" (Peter Hammer)
"Few words about the effort and invested time. Have been on this project only 1 or max 2 goes per season, just to discover: not happening this year. This summer however, the pieces started to stick together and it became the main goal of the season. Happy to have it done!" (RH)
Jani Lehtola has today managed to send his longstanding project in Martti Servo
boulder, Rovaniemi. The line adds a sit start to 'Turvasanat' and reqired whopping amount of sessions and driving by Jani. The new route 'Voimasanat' checks in at 8b+ making it a strong contender for the hardest boulder in Finland! Big congratulations!!!
Markus Lehtonen bagged today the second ascent of 'Sagittarius A' (8a) in Mustavuori. The route was opened on May by Johannes Puranen (see the news 24.5.). Another good ascent: Valtteri Pulkkinen climbed 'Matador' (8a) in Falkberget about a week back.
Munchen bouldering world cup
Anna Laitinen 31st and Eevi Jaakkola 42nd, 51 participants in total. Anton Johansson 31st and Andy Gullsten 33rd of 65 in total. Detailed results here.
'Texas Ranger' by Jani
Jani Mäkinen has climbed maybe the most popular hard route of this season, 'Texas Ranger' (8a+) in Ruhankallio, Tervakoski. Congratulations!
There are also no signs of any slow down by Samuel Hammer, who (on his trip to Youth Euro Cup last week) did quick job with another classic 'Center Court' (8a+) in Bärenschlucht, Frankenjura and after that has climbed also 'Unusual Suspect' (8a) in Myllis.
Anna in Magic Wood
Anna Laitinen was in flames on her recent bouldering trip to Magic Wood, Switzerland. Her hardest ticks were 'Free for All' (8a), 'Foxy Lady' (8a), 'Down Under' (7c+) and 'Jack the Chipper' (7c). Very nice!!! Anna is no stranger to hard boulder lines as on April 2010 she did 'Idefix assis' (8a) in Sipoo.
Pamu in Youth Euro Cup, Imst
Samuel Hammer has did very well in the European Youth Cup lead competition in Imst, Austria. He made it to the finals and placed 7th among the 45 competititors! Congratulations! This was probably the second best youth comp performance ever (boys) as Anton Johansson placed 5th in Slovenia on 2000. Sami Koponen who competed in the youth A category, placed 33rd (46 competitors in total). Detailed results here.
On the same trip Pamu climbed a Wolfgang Gullich's classic 'Slimline' (8a) in Waldkopf, Frankenjura. He barely missed the flash by falling from the last move but made it on his second go. Strong!!!
Finns in Céüse
Several Finns have ticked good heap of hard routes in Céüse this summer. At the end of July Ilari Kelloniemi
has climbed 'Sueurs froides' (8a+), 'Keket Direct' (8a+), 'Carte Blanche' (8a) and 'Bourinator' (8a). According to Kuutti Huhtikorpi's recent tick-list update to 27crags he has done 'Slow Food' (8b+), 'Le sacrilège du Déviant' (8a+), 'Keket Direct' (8a+) and flashed both 'Bourinator' (8a) and 'Carte Blanche' (8a). Also in the end of June Valtteri Pulkkinen
has done 'Bourinator' (8a), 'Les Colonnettes' (8a) and 'Carte Blanche' (8a).
'Oma Planeetta' (8a+) by Pamu
Samuel Hammer has today made probably the second repeat of Olhava test piece 'Oma Planeetta' (8a+). The ascent took five tries in total. Although Pamu found some new funky beta for the crux sections, he still recalls this as the hardest 8a+ he has climbed. "Could well be 8b". Way to go!
The line was established by Henrik Suinkonen and has been repeated by Tomi Nytorp.
Standard day for Pamu
Today Samuel 'Pamu' Hammer climbed two capital area testpieces in Myllis. The other one 'Eskimo' (8a+) tests your endurance with about 10 meter long traverse combined with a 7c+ boulder top out and the other 'Hottentotti' (8a) requires explosive power on a very steep ground. Nice indeed!
Hard trad by Mina
Mina Jokivirta has made the first repeat of 'Pieni Sammakko' (7b+) in Perskallio, Kärkölä. The line is an old aid route known as 'Kavapakki' and was freed by Tomi Nytorp couple of years ago. Correct me but this could well be the hardest trad ascent by a Finnish woman. Congratulations!
UPDATE: There is at least one even harder ascent as Anna-Liisa Sihvonen has last year climbed 'Akradabra' (7c) in Lilla Galgberg, Bohuslän!
Massive access work carried out at Olhavanvuori
FCA-access actives Toni Fohlin and Teemu Ojala put themself into a test and managed last week to replace all briges at Olhava in Repovesi National park. The new heavy-duty bridges (appr. 200kg each!) are beautifully crafted from larch (lehtikuusi), a wood which is not chemically treated, is long lasting and widely used in Finnish national parks. The style of the bridges suites well with the other permanent constructions in the park. The rather intensive operation was carried out with hauling systems and installed with glue-on anchors and stainless steel parts. The bridges are to last at least the next 20 years.
Metsähallitus (Forest and National Park Services) provided most of the materials, and Toni and Teemu put all the work under their belts. The two hardmen replaced the main briges at the island and were especially happy with the two duckboards that connect the first routes starting from water to the mainland. These new narrow bridges provide now ”dry-foot” access all the way to ”Riippuvat puutarhat” from the mainland. Additionally the overgrown and messy corner of ”Suuri leikkaus” got a clean-up of bushes and is now a very pleasant environment to all routes at ”The Big-Laatta”.
Old anchor replacement work was also started by Toni and as well as old routes update cleaning by Teemu and Miia Fohlin. As a result the classics ”Sammalränni” and ”Riippuvat puutarhat” got a facelift – have a go and try these fine, a little bit underated but fantastic and good protected middle-grade routes next time.
While enjoyning these new improments, please keep in mind the strict policy of how to behave in a National Park. Use the public boat only when accessing routes and in rescue purposes. Use it as if it were our own, with care and easy roving. This way it will last longer. Be nice and kind to all people you meet at the crag as there are nowdays many tourists intrested in climbing that visit the cliff.
Additionnally it is intended to get the long awaited information boards on climbing and Olhavanvuori before the end of this season.
Big thanks to Toni, Teemu and Miia for their big effort! Let’s all keep in mind this kind of important voluntary access work when enjoying climbing at our crags nationwide.
'La Cabane au Canada' (9a) by Tomi!!!
Tomi Nytorp succeeded yesterday with 'La Cabane au Canada' (9a) only a day after Andy's 9a performance! La Cabane situates in Rawyl, Switzerland and it's about 30 meters long endurance route on a 30 degrees overhanging face. "A long, beautiful and crimpy line. I was on the route on four days making one try per day." says Tomi in short. Huge congratulations!!! On the same trip Olli-Petteri Manni managed to on-sight 'Grand Public' (8a). Some more details on the pages of Bouldertehdas (in Finnish).
'Le Cadre Nouvelle Version' (9a) by Andy!
Andy Gullsten has climbed 'Le Cadre Nouvelle Version' (9a) in sector Biographie, Céüse. This was the first 9a route ever by a Finn and took three days of work. More details in the 27crags news report. Big congratulations!!!
Andy in Céüse
Andy Gullsten has been in Céüse for about two weeks now with a group of other Finns. This far his impressive tick list contains routes such as 'La Part du Diable' (8c+), 'Slow food' (8b+) flash and several good on-sights such as 'Keket Direct' (8a+), 'Rosanna' (8a) and 'Bourinator' (8a). Probably more to come!
'Estrella' by Pasi
Pasi Sjöman climbed yesterday 'Estrella' (8b) in Nummi. Another hard repeat couple of days back: Sami Koponen climbed 'Pavarotti' (8a) in Jynkkä cliff, Kuopio.
Markus Lehtonen has climbed '
Sulttaani' (8a+) in Nummi, Kari Holkko '
Smeagol' (8a+) in Mäyrävuori, Tampere area and Sami Koponen '
Kultakanta' (8a+) in Haukkavuori, Rautjärvi.
'Texas Ranger' by Jari
Jari Koski has climbed 'Texas Ranger' (8a+) in Ruhankallio, Tervakoski. Congrats!
Some other recent ascents: Joonas Sailaranta has made probably third ascent of 'King's Cross' (7c+, trad) in Haukkakallio and Anssi Venho has repeated 'BabaBabaGurGur' (8a+) in Haukkamäki, Salo area.
Ascents in Kalymnos and Finland
Samuel Hammer and Sami Koponen have been ticking in Kalymnos for about three weeks now. Both have been making impressive ascents in all styles (os, flash, rp). Some highlights: 'Gaia' (8b) by Pamu, 'Sardonique' (8a+) by both, 'Zero Chichon' (8a) by both (os by Pamu!) and 'Daniboy'(8a) 2nd go by Sami. Sami also flashed 'Orion' (7c+) and Pamu on-sighted 'Zawi Nul Syndicate' (7c/+). In addition to these, there's a heap of level 7b+/7c on-sights for both. More details at 27crags ticklists. Another strong Finn Jani Mäkinen has climbed maybe the most impressive line in the island 'Fun de Chichunne' (8a).
In Finland Mikko Mäkelä has repeated 'Wild Side' (8a) in Haukkavuori, Simpele.
8a onsight by Pamu
Samuel Hammer has today on-sighted 'Zero Chichon' (8a) in Galatiani, Kalymnos. This was Pamu's first on-sight at this level. Congratulations!!
New cool lines and ascents
Action compilation from past weeks: Matti Kivinen has opened a hard trad line in Pärkänvuori, Uusikaupunki. 'Hohto' checks in at 9- (7c+). See the story at Matti's blog. The line was repeated by Olli-Petteri Manni last Sunday. Sami Romppainen has opened a new boulder line 'L'Enfant Sauvage' (8a) in Viitaniemi, Kuopio. Check the details from the blog of MTK. Olli-Petteri Manni has also opened 'Nakke`s stickmark extension' (8a) in Luolavuori, Turku. The line is an arete traverse in the Matahari block. 'Texas Ranger' (8a+) got another repeat by Pasi Sjöman and 'Spiral Architect' (8a) in Koivusaari block was repeated by Sami Saxell.
Standard day for Andy
After the Vail World Cup,
Andy Gullsten has been hitting several bouldering spots around Denver, Colorado. Especially last Saturday in Lincoln Lake at Mt Evans seems to have been pretty productive! During this single day he climbed 'Evil Backwards' (8b), 'Great War for Civilization' (8b), 'Both Sides of The Spectrum' (8a+), 'Tattooed Teardrops' (8a+) and flashed 'Unshackled Sit' (7c+). See the details and other climbs on his tick list in 27crags.com.
Olli-Petteri Manni has opened one of the hardest trad lines in Finland. 'Kyyränni' (9+, French 8a+) situates in Muurla cliff, 10 meters left from 'Mefisto'. According to OP the line is very bouldery, about 9 meters long and overhangs about 40 degrees. It has two one finger moves (even with pinky!) and is well protectable. He also tells that strength training during winter season helped a lot in gaining enough power to succeed with the ascent. Check
more details at the blog of Bouldertehdas (in Finnish). Congrats!
Another mega route by Johannes
Johannes Puranen completed yesterday another challenging project in Mustavuori. The route links 'Autio-Suihkonen' and 'Komiat pärjää aina' with a thin crack section, forming another logical way to top of the cliff. Total length of the route is about 35 meters. The route completes 'Autio-Suihkonen' which has anchor installed on half height - actually in the middle of no-where. You climb all the crux sections of both routes but remarkably, the redpoint crux of the route is completely new and situates on the link section where the footholds are practically non-existing. Johannes fell from here maybe five times and as you can guess, the whole package is very pumpy. No name yet and the first grade suggestion is 8a. Big congratulations!
Results from Vail
Andy Gullsten climbed well in bouldering world cup competition in Vail, USA. On Friday he qualified to the semis where he barely missed the finals placing 9th overall. Eevi Jaakkola was 29th in the female category. Detailed results here.
North Carelian triple completed by Sami
With ascent of 'Dulcinea' (8a) in Vuorivaara on Wednesday, Sami Koponen has climbed all three 8a's in North-Carelian area. Good work.
'Toyboy' by Tatu
Tatu Autio climbed yesterday his project in Haukkamäki, Salo. The line starts left from 'BabababaGurgur', continues left on the edge of the big roof and then up. According to Tatu the route has quite powerful crux section and climbing reminds a bit of wrestling in general. The newborn got name 'Toyboy' and Tatu thinks the grade might be atleast 8a. Nice!
Hard repeats all over the place
After recent ascent of 'Estrella' in Nummi, Samuel Hammer did yesterday quick work with 'Sulttaani' (8a+) suggesting a personal grade of 8b. In the same cliff Tomi Nytorp climbed 'Estrella' (8b) and Elias Silvola 'Adlon' (8a) couple of days earlier. Excellent 'Texas Ranger' (8a+) in Ruhankallio has been climbed by Kiipeilyareena crew, Joonas Sailaranta and Antti Ahola, who today also did Martin Nugent's 'BabababaGurgur' (8a+) in Haukkamäki, Salo area. Worth to mention, Antti put only a session of effort for each! Couple of weeks back he also did 'Half Century' (8a) in Rotkokallio. Markus Lehtonen has been ticking hard this spring and did a quick 2nd go ascent to 'Wild Side' (8a) in Haukkavuori past weekend.
Johannes Puranen opened today arguably the proudest line in Mustavuori by freeing the high and overhanging middle crack! In this case, high means 30+ meters and overhanging about 7 meters out from the start.
The line follows the most logical and easiest way up the huge middle face. It starts with the first 4 bolts of 'Autio-Suihkonen' and continues right to a steep crack which forms over two thirds of the route on its own. The crack part contains the 'beef' of the route offering very physical, technical and reachy movement in an flared and desperate splitter formation. It's however well protectable with trad gear. Jossu named the route 'Sagittarius A' and proposes modestly 8a for difficulty.
Exceptionally nice effort, so exceptionally big congrats!
From Wikipedia: Sagittarius A is a super massive (4 million suns) black hole in the center of our home galaxy.
'Estrella' by Pamu
The other half of the wonderkid patrol, Samuel Hammer, has today climbed 'Estrella' (8b) in Nummi. Ascent was caught on reel and may end up to the forthcoming climbing film 'Addiction' by Sampsa Aronen & co. Congratulations to Pamu!
More Nummi updates: Markus Lehtonen has climbed 'Adlon' (8a) and Tomi Nytorp re-climbed 'Tornado direct' (8b) after the breakage of 'crucial' hold. Tomi found an alternative sequence for the crux and thinks that the original grade is still valid for this route.
From here and abroad
Some hard ascents from past week: On Saturday Markus Lehtonen climbed 'Texas Ranger' (8a+) in Tervakoski, yesterday Pasi Sjöman did 'Buu-klubben' (8a) in Siuntio and Sami Koponen 'Tarantella' (8a) in Notko. Day before Sami climbed also 'Hybridi' (7c+) in Kerimäki.
Nalle Hukkataival who is on a long trip to Australia did about a week ago a second-go ascent to 'Flower Power' (8c, sports). He also finished couple of his boulder projects from last year creating 'Slippery Slope' (8a+), 'Losing Grip' (8a+) and 'Happy Ending' (8a). These lines are located in Grampians area. See the comments in his tick list!
'Syncro' by Andy
Andy Gullsten has yesterday made the 3rd ascent of Tomi Nytorp's 'Sycro' (8c+) in Nummi
cliff! "Yess!! Definetly one of my biggest achievements to date. Finland's hardest sport route. It's bouldery, continuous, pumpy and has wicked moves. :) So happy!". This was the second repeat after German Christian Bindhammer. Big congrats!!
Sauli Kiema had a strong pre- May day weekend in Ruokolahti. In addition to flashes of 'Molester' and 'King of Bong' (both 7c+), he managed with the first repeats of Anton Johansson's 'Wicked and Weird' (8a+) and Make Tawast's 'Localist' (8a). The latter went down on 3rd go. Strong indeed!
Bit late but noteworthy news: Andy Gullsten took the shared first position in the competition organized by the annual Melloblocco boulder meeting in Val di Mello, Italy. Nice article in Plantmountain.com. This massive event was participated by over 2000 climbers.
Tomi frees 'Hiidenkirnu' project!
Tomi Nytorp has yesterday climbed the fabulous 'Hiidenkirnu' project in Turunvuori. This beautiful line has rejected many top climbers during the past 15 years.
With Tomi's own words: "On Saturday evening's top rope session I found the missing move for the crux below the anchor and on Sunday morning climbed the line on third go. It's hard to describe this line with words, you must see it and be astonished. The crux at the end requires versatile jamming skills. The line is easy to protect. I named the line simply and maybe a bit boringly 'Hiidenkirnu' (Giant's kettle). Difficulty is comparable to my previous route 'Luomus', so around 8a.". Yeah!!
On Monday Tomi Nytorp
free'ed the last project of Olhava plate. The line situates left from 'Los Capitanos' and was known as an old A3 aid line. The route has around 10 moves long hard section that contains very technical climbing, spiced with long moves and bad footholds. This part can be secured with small stoppers.
Tomi named the route 'Luomus' ('Creation') and suggests grade 9- (7c+/8a French). "A brilliant route and an ave-inspiring line!". Big congratulations to Tomi!
'Jaakobin Paini' (8b+) by Andy
has today repeated 'Jaakobin Paini' in Nummi. This line, opened by Henrik Suihkonen, has lost some crucial holds years back and has probably not seen any repeates since that. According to Andy the grade is now around 8b+. Originally the line was graded 8b. Congratulations!
Hard flashes by Andy
About two weeks back Andy Gullsten flashed 'Nokipolvi' (8a) in Valkeavuori and couple of days later 'Lämpöaalto low start' (8a) in Inkoo block. The latter was recently opened by Marko Siivinen. Andy also opened a new route 'Kylmää Kyytiä' (8a) to the same block. Roped action: Joonas Sailaranta and Markus Lehtonen have climbed Jari Koski's excellent 'Half Century' (8a) in Rotkokallio.
Detailed results from the last weekend's Lappicup competition in Rovaniemi on the right. Check also Saku's nice blog posting from the event.
Spain season by Johannes
Die hard climber Johannes Puranen has returned from his long off season trip to Spain where he showed that he can handle tufas as gently as the Finnish cracks.
According to his own words, hardest ascent during the stay was 'Me la Empina' (8a+) which felt clearly harder than 'El Oraculo' (8b), a line he also climbed. Both routes situate in sector Makinodromo, El Chorro. All in all, he did 7x8a, 5x8a+ and one 8b during the trip. This tells about quite a steep progress curve as the eighth grade was new to him before the trip! Good work!!
Henrik Suihkonen interviewed
One of the most remarkable pioneers of Finnish climbing gets interviewed by Aki Hassinen in this blog post (in Finnish). Check it out!
Results - Bouldering Nordic Championships 2012
Today's finals in Copenhagen was a success to the Finnish team! Grown ups: Andy Gullsten took gold and Anton Johansson was 5th. Eevi Jaakkola took silver after Norvegian Tina Johansen Hafsaas. Juniors: Elias Silvola took gold and Henri Haime bronze after Terjei Hamre from Norway. Youth A: Katariina Haime took gold and Sami Koponen silver after Frederik Zeilberger Thulstrup from Denmark. Youth B: Samuel Hammer took gold. Congratulations!
Nalle Hukkataival tells in his blog that he has yesterday opened a new hard line in Fontainebleau. 'Realist' checks in at 8b+. Congratulations!!! He also did a quick ascent of 'Gecko assis' (8b+), on a same day!
Finns in Railay
Some strong Finnish climbers have hit Thailand's popular climbing spot also this winter. Valtteri Pulkkinen has climbed 'Arts & Sports' (8a+) 2nd go, 'Sex Power' (8a) 2nd go and 'Elephant' (8a). Miku Kyrklund did also 'Arts and Sports' and Katariina Rahikainen 'Just Call Me Helmet' (8a). Nice!
Johannes in Spain
Johannes Puranen has been spending the winter season in southern Europe limestone doing some serious cranking. On November he stayed in Terradets area where he sent lines such as 'El Latido del Miedo' (8a) and 'Bon Viatge' (8a). Kuus aa blogs that he's at the moment in El Chorro where he has repeated at least 'Lourdes' (8a) and 'Swimming Through a Shark Attack' (8a+). Brilliant work!!
Finnish Lead Championships
Year's absolutely last climbing competition was no more than national championships in difficulty. The venue was Toyota Kiipeilyareena in Helsinki. Podium in female category was shared by Matilda Nordman, Eevi Jaakkola and Enni Bertling. In male category the order was Andy Gullsten, Anton Johansson and Kuutti Huhtikorpi. Detailed results (with youth categories) here. Congratulations and Happy new year to all!
'Crown of Aragorn' (8b) flash by Nalle
Nalle Hukkataival did yesterday his hardest to date flash by sending 'Crown of Aragorn' (8b) on his first go. Congrats!! The line situates in sector East Spur Maze, Hueco area, Texas.
'Esperanza' (8b+) by Nalle
is on a trip to US an has been sending some hard stuff. Yesterday he repeated 'Esperanza' (8b+) in a rainfall. The line situates in
North Mountain, Hueco area
, Texas. Some other hard ascents during the trip: 'Circadian Rhythm', 'Black Lung', 'Blackout' (all 8b) and 'Beyond Life sds' (8a+).
is on European road trip where, in addition to his recent repeat of 'Anam Cara', he has climbed huge amount of hard boulder lines. In Chironico
he did 'Schule des Lebens', 'Dreamtime stand' and 'Electric Ant', all 8b. In Murgtal he did 'Bourguignon' and in Silvretta 'Golden Gate', both 8b. At the moment Andy is in Font where his first send was 'Atrésie' (8a).
Results from bouldering JNC 2011
A team of 15 Finnish climbers participated the Nordic Junior Bouldering Championships 2011 in Stockholm. On today's finals, Matilda Nordman took gold in the Juniors category by outstandingly flashing all four routes. Katariina Haime did the same trick on Youth B category. Other Finns on podium were Sami Koponen (3rd, Youth A) and Sonja Kainulainen (2nd, Youth D). Congratulations!
Detailed results from qualifications can be found here and from the finals here (in pdf-format).
Gorge of Terradets (Spain) has been a popular spot for Finnish climbers this fall. Among other nice repeats, about two weeks back Jari Koski did 'Bon Viatge' (8a) and on last Wednesday Markus Lehtonen did 'El Latido del Miedo' (8a). The lines are located at the impressive sports sector 'Les Bruixes'.
Getu and Cresciano action
Katariina Rahikainen has climbed 'Ki Di Buzz' (8a) in Getu valley, China. Getu valley was the venue for the latest Petzl Rock Trip about a week back. Jani Lehtola has repeated 'Kirk Windstein' (8a+) in Cresciano, Switzerland. According to Jani, the problem was quite similar but maybe a bit easier than 'No Man's Land' (8a+) in Luohua, Oulu area.
Talviaika Open 2011 results
Talviaika Open bouldering event took place in Bouldertehdas (Turku) past weekend. The competition gathered 62 male and 18 female competitors. Winners were Tomi Nytorp and Matilda Nordman. Points were calculated with 'Koivukylä method'. Detailed results in pdf-format.
'Spiral Architect' by Jatta Himanen
Jatta Himanen has repeated 'Spiral Architect' (8a) at Koivusaari block, Helsinki. The line links several problems around the boulder before topping out. This is maybe the first Finnish female boulder ascent for this grade, although she comments that the difficulty felt like '~7c sport route'. Nice work!!
Other hard ascents: Elias Silvola did 'Millyways' and 'Kellarijengi' both 8a in Turku area, Nalle Hukkataival did 'Korben Dallas' and 'Terms of Enrampagement' both 8a and the latter FA in Puumala area. On the roper side Anssi Pasila has repeated 'Daniboy' (8a) in Kalymnos.
Slovenian route by Finnish team
Some alpine action. A Finnish team with three members, Tatu Autio, Sami Modenius and Ode Siivonen succeeded last Friday with their ascent of the Slovenian route on the north face of Grandes Jorasses.
Tatu's words about the ascent: "We did the route with Croz Spur ending. The alpine grade is ED V 5 and height of the route about 1000 meters. The ascent took about 10 hours. We could have moved maybe 2-3 hours faster but there was a slower team above us. The route was in good condition, although there was not a lot of ice in the crux section."
There is a video about the ascent. Check it here
(editing by Ville Fagerholm).
'Fuego' (8b) by Pamu
Samuel 'Pamu' Hammer has climbed 'Fuego' (8b) in sector Massone, Arco, Italy. This was Pamu's 1st route of this grade so congratulations!
Circus Elephant Syndrome
Nalle Hukkataival has managed to send his long standing project in Sipoo on Wednesday. 'Circus Elephant Syndrome' required some long term commitment and checks in as hard 8b+! See the details in Nalle's blog.
Nalle in Fontainebleau
Check Nalle's Blog for a story about his recent trip to Fonainebleau. Despite of hot weather Nalle has managed to do 'L’Insoutenable Légèreté de l’Autre' (8b) plus classics such as 'Surplomb de la Vallée de la Mée' (8a+) and 'Imothep' (8a/+). Nice!
'The Globalist' (8b+) repeated by Andy
Andy Gullsten repeated today 'The Globalist' (8b+) with his smooth and effortless looking style. Globalist, which is Andy's hardest to date, was opened by Nalle Hukkataival on May 2009. Big congrats!
As the weather turned from warm to cold in one day, last weekend offered one of the best frictions in the whole season. People noticed this and some hard lines were ticked. Sami Saxell repeated 'Spider Pig' (8a) in Sipoo, Sami Koponen 'Mahjongg' (8a) in Juuka and rumours tell that Anton Johansson opened a new hard line (8a+?) in Puumala-Ruokolahti area. On the roper side Samuel Hammer repeated 'Matador' (8a) in Falkberget.
'Wild Side' and 'Kära Dagbok' repeats
Jouni Keltanen from Imatra has yesterday climbed 'Wild Side' (8a) in Haukkavuori. This was Jouni's first route of this grade so congratulations! Another hard repeat from yesterday is Andy Gullsten's ascent of 'Kära Dagbok' (8b) in Siuntio. The line was established by Martin Nugent and has earlier been repeated by Olli-Petteri Manni.
Nalle's Oz trip
Nalle Hukkataival has been on a very productive trip to Grampians, Australia. Nice report in Black Diamond Journal.
Late season ascents
Repeating rainfalls have soaked major part of the southern cliffs and fast drying spots are few for the rock climbers. Falkberget is one of these and last weekend Markus Lehtonen took the opportunity to extend his strong season with the ascent of 'Matador' (8a). Another notable ascent already from early August is Marko 'Magis' Wallin's repeat of 'Texas Ranger' (8a+) in Ruhankallio, Tervakoski. Congrats to both!
'Tornado direct' first repeat by Andy
Anthony Gullsten has yesterday made the first repeat to 'Tornado direct' (8b) in Nummi. The line was opened on June by Tomi Nytorp. Nice!!
For those who have not followed news pages or blogs, Andy was quite productive also in the recent Västervik boulder meeting about week back. He climbed for example 'Hourglass ss' (8b), 'Night Shift' (8a+), 'David o Goliat low' (8a+), 'Soulfly' (8a+), 'By the Book' (8a+) and 'Namaste' (8a+). More details in Andy's scorecard.
'Päiväuni' by Perttu
Perttu Ollila has repeated 'Päiväuni' (9-), a trad test piece by Olli Manni (2001) in Pärkänvuori. This line has previously been repeated at least by Tomi Nytorp. The grand off-width expert Juha 'Jutah' Suikkala repeated next line to right, 'Pikkuveturi' (8-). Good work!!
Youth world champs in Imst
Female juniors: Matilda Nordman 21st of 47 in total, male youth A: Sami Koponen 47th and Elias Silvola 69th of 84 in total, male youth B: Samuel Hammer 33rd of 85 in total. Matilda was the only one to make it to the semis.
Markus Lehtonen has been having an excellent season which seems to continue. Within past one week he has climbed 'Nummisuutari' (8a/+), 'Buu-klubben' (8a) and 'Charlatan direct' (7c+).
Sami gets in to the Wild Side
Young Sami Koponen from Joensuu climbed yesterday 'Wild Side' (8a) in Haukkavuori. This was Sami's first 8a so congratulations! This route was opened by Jani Lunnas on 2005.
Texas Ranger by Pamu
Samuel 'Pamu' Hammer has yesterday repeated 'Texas Ranger' (8a+) in
Ruhankallio, Tervakoski. This intensive route was established on 2007 by Tomi Nytorp and has been repeated earlier at least by Jani Lunnas and Rami Haakana.
'Half Century' by Jari Koski
Jari Koski has been setting up classic after another in Rotkokallio and the latest and hardest this far was opened a week back. 'Half Century' checks in at 8a (grade to be confirmed) and offers 15 meters of overhanging and technical climbing all the way. Nice!!!
Rotkokallio situates in Lapinjärvi and the cliff has been known for mixed climbing on early 90's. The rock quality is coarse granit and a bit loose here and there. The already established free lines however are very high quality. Check it!
A day in a life of Jari
Jari Pöllänen who recently turned 40 has today climbed 'A Day in a Life' (8b) in Niemisel, Sweden. Regarding the grade, the route is Jari's personal best this far and he feels that the limits are yet to be seen. Big congratulations!
Sends in Nummi
Olli Manni has climbed 'Estrella' (8b) in Nummi cliff. The route is known to be the first 8b graded route in Finland. Details in the blog of Bouldertehdas (in Finnish). On Tuesday another Nummi classic 'Sheriffi' (8a) got repeated by Markus Lehtonen. Congrats to both!
Hard ticks by Ilari in Magic Wood
Ilari Kelloniemi has updated his ticklist with some hard boulder ascents in Switzerland. These include 'Voigas' (8a+), 'Octopussy' (8a), 'Unendliche Geschichte' (8a) and 'Nothing Changes' (8a).
Arco lead results
Andy Gullsten finished 57th and Anton Johansson 107th in the world championships lead competition in Arco. Total amount of competitors was 130. Detailed results here.
Kuutti's Rocklands ticks
Kuutti Huhtikorpi has refilled his ticklist which shows that he also has been in a great bouldering shape during the trip. The highlights include 'Black Shadow' (8a+/b), Shosholoza (8a+) and six 8a graded routes. Nice!!
Diablo by Tapsa
Tapio Alhonsuo has last Saturday climbed 'Diablo' (8a) in Niemisel, Sweden. This was Tapsa's first 8a. Congratulations!
Arco bouldering results
Andy Gullsten's final position was 14th in the semifinals of bouldering world championships, Arco. The overall winner was Dmitry Sharafutdinov (RUS), 2nd Adam Ondra (CZE) and 3rd Rustam Gelmanov (RUS). Detailed results here.
Female boulder qualifications in Arco
Eevi Jaakkola took part in bouldering world championships qualifications round today in Arco. Her final position was 27th when total amount of participants was 69. Not bad! Detailed results here.
Andy qualified to semis in Arco
Today's bouldering qualifications in Arco world championships are over. Andy Gullsten shared brilliantly 9th position and secured his way to the Sunday's semifinals. His position in qualification group A was fifth. Nalle Hukkataival climbed in group B where he placed 19th and 37th overall and Anton Johansson shared 70th overall (35th in group A). Total amount of competitors was 139.
Detailed results here.
Andy's Rockland ticks
Andy Gullsten has returned from Rocklands
and during 5 weeks trip he climbed amazing amount of hard boulder lines. All in all he has recorded 4 8b's, 7 8a+'s and 21 8a's in his ticklist. For 'Mooiste Meisie' he suggested personal grade 8b while it has even been considered 8b+.
Andy is now at Arco to compete in the climbing world championships and will take part in both boulder and lead comps. Other Finnish participants are Nalle Hukkataival (boulder), Eevi Jaakkola (boulder) and Anton Johansson (lead & boulder). The event starts tomorrow with bouldering comp and should be streamable online from IFSC.tv. Shedule and info here.
Marjut Vierimaa does 'Bon Viatge' (8a)
Yet another Finnish female climber joins 8a club as Marjut Vierimaa has climbed 'Bon Viatge' in sector les Bruixes, Terradets gorge, Spain. Congratulations! Marjut did also 'Shere Kahn' (7c+) in nearby crack Camarasa.
Leviathan and King's Cross by Johannes
Johannes Puranen has recently gained a very good trad shape. In addition to 'Leviathan' (7c), a desperate crackline in Marjuvuori, he has this summer opened 7 new lines on South-East cliffs. On yesterday he made a convincing and probably the first repeat of 'King's Cross' (7c+) at Haukkakallio, Ruotsinpyhtää (FA 2007 by Rami Haakana).
Johannes is 23 years old, lives in Kotka and has been climbing since 2008. He is wickedly motivated climber who has been spending two last winter seasons abroad as a full time climbing bum.
Another 8a+ by Katariina
We were too hasty in reporting about the 8b route Katariina Rahikainen is still working on. Anyway on Friday she ticked 'Damaque', another 8a+ graded line in a short period of time. Based on the spent effort she thinks this one was harder than the first one. Congratulations and thumbs up for the on-going projects!
'Tornado direct' (8b) by Tomi
Tomi Nytorp has today managed to free one of the long time projects at Nummi cliff. 'Tornado direct', for which Tomi suggests grade 8b, adds new first half to 'Tornado' (7b+/7c). Climbing can be described as super technical, fingery and intensive. Congratulations!
Samuel in Kalymnos
Samuel Hammer has returned from Kalymnos with a very decent tick list in his pocket. His hardest redpoints were 'Angelica' and 'Daniboy', both 8a and 3rd try. Best on-sight was no worse than the super hyper classic and a real stamina fest 'Aegialis' (7c) at Grande Grotta. Not bad for a 13 year old youngster!! Check Pamu's tick list in 8a.nu.
In Finland 'Buu-klubben' (8a) in Siuntio has seen a repeat by a trad ace Adrian Pollard.
'Syncro' (8c+!) repeated by Christian Bindhammer
Bouldertehdas reports that a top German sports climber Christian Bindhammer has today made the first repeat of 'Syncro' (8c) at Nummi cliff just before the rain front reached the south coast!
'Syncro' was estalished by Tomi Nytorp on 2006 and is known to be the hardest sports climb in Finland. Christian commented the grade to be 'probably 8c+' and says that he has climbed several 8c+'s that are easier than this one. His other Nummi ascents included 'Nummisuutari' (8a/+) and 'Alibi' (7c) which, in his opinion, are both hard for the suggested grade. Whoa!
Katariina Rahikainen has yesterday climbed 'Yingshang' (translates 'Mishap') (8a+) in Baihe, China. Katariina tells that the route was sent right after she got a phone call from her younger sister that she's ready to go to hospital to give birth. Maybe the idea of becoming aunt gave some extra boost!
This was probably first 8a+ graded route by a Finnish woman so big congratulations!
Andy flashes 'Barracuda' (8a)
Andy Gullsten has been having a good start for his Rocklands trip. On the first day he climbed 'Black Velvet' (8a) on third go and next day 'Barracuda' (8a) flash! Source: Barrels & Tickmarks. Couple of day back he also repeated 'Fyysikko' (8b) at 28.7, Jyväskylä area. Probably more to come...
Hard lines by Jani
Jani Lehtola has established some hard additions to Luohua and Pyhäntä boulders. On start of May he climbed 'Ladamiesten seurakunta' (8a+) by linking some existing lines at Luohua. About a week later the same block got another linkup addition 'Sabamiesten Seurakunta' (8a). On yesterday Jani added a mighty highball 'Spiritual Leader' (8a) to Pyhäntä boulder. Videos will be available at Jani's blog. Inspiring work!
More results from Stavanger
Matilda Nordman took gold, Samuel Hammer silver and Henri Haime bronze in Stavanger, where the NC event was continued on Sunday with youth championships. Congratulations!
Detailed result from the whole event can be found here (in xls -format).
Nordic Championships in Stavanger
NC in difficulty was this year participated by a strong Finnish team. Previous champions Magnus Midtboe and Tina Hafsaas-Johnsen from Norway renewed their titels. Runner-up's were Tomi Nytorp and Matilda Nordman. Congratulations!
IFSC world cup competition in bouldering was arranged last weekend in Log-Dragomer, Slovenia. Anton Johansson took part in the event and barely missed semifinals by placing 22nd among 50 competitors. However, he left behind some very hard names! Detailed results here.
Andy Gullsten took part in 3 days climbing event 'Melloblocco' in Val di Mello, Italy. The event has gained popularity year by year and this time the amount of participants was whopping 2600.
By the ranking based on hardest ascents, Andy was placed among the best 5 by topping 5 of the hardest lines. Other climbers in this mutant category were Adam Ondra, Gabriele Moroni, Mauro Calibani and Michele Caminati. More detailed report in Planet Mountain.
Tuomo Lankinen sends 'Marvin' (8a)
27crags and MTK reports that Tuomo Lankinen has repeated short but stiff 'Marvin' (8a) at Keljonkangas, Jyväskylä. Nice! 'Marvin' got it's first ascent by Jussi Remonen on 2003.
'Laoguai' by Katariina
Katariina Rahikainen has couple of days back climbed 'Laoguai' (8a) at Baihe, China. This was Katariina's 2nd 8a during a short period.
'7 Veljestä' by Anssi
Steep and intensive '
7 Veljestä' (8a+) got yesterday another repeat by Anssi Venho. Nice!
Access group established
Finnish Climbing Association (SKIL) has established an Access group to prevent formation of access problems and to solve present problems in our cliffs and boulders. The working principle is to support both access responsibles of the member clubs and other active climbers who are dealing with this subject.
Detailed information is available in the announcement by SKIL (pdf-format, in Finnish).
Samuel Hammer (13) ticked 'Buu Klubben' (8a)
Mikkelin Työväen Kiipeilijät reports that Samuel 'Pamu' Hammer has today sent 'Buu Klubben' (8a) at Siuntio! As Pamu is only 13 years old, he is this far the youngest Finn to climb this grade. Big congratulations!!
'Fyysikko' by Ila
Ila Tuunainen has yesterday repeated 'Fyysikko
' (8b) at 28.7, Jyväskylä area. Congrats! Source: 27crags.
Andy in Font and Switzerland
Andy Gullsten has just updated his ticklist with impressive list of hard end ascents both in Fontainebleau and Switzerland. Picked from the list: 'The Never Ending Story' (8b+) in Magic Wood, 'Delusion of Grandeur' (8b), 'Serre Moi Fort', 'The Great Shark Hunt', 'Passo Ticino' all 8a+, Chironico.
Maybe the most impressive ascent however is 'Duel' (8a) in Fontainebleau. This classic by Philippe Le Denmat is known as one of the hardest slabs in the world with micro crimps and almost non existent footholds. Nice one!
Nalle Hukkataival has had a procuctive trip to Font with ascents of e.g. 'Elephunk' (8b), 'L'Apparemment en Depart Bas' (8b) and 'L'Ubik' (8a+).
Results from Bouldering NC in Turku
1. Robban Rundin SWE
2. Daniel Andersson SWE
3. Tomi Nytorp FIN
4. Kuutti Huhtikorpi FIN
5. Joakim Berglund SWE
6. Olsen Eirik Birkelund NOR
7. Joonas Selänniemi FIN
8. Ivan Kaurov RUS
9. Anssi Venho FIN
1. Tina Johansen Hafsaas NOR
2. Eevi Jaakkola FIN
3. Matilda Söderlund SWE
4. Matilda Nordman FIN
5. Maria Sandbu Davies NOR
6. Pernille Soegard DEN
7. Daniela Ebler SWE
8. Mina Jokivirta FIN
Points and qualifications results can be found here. Congratulations to the finalists and especially to Eevi and Tomi!
'Fuhuo' (8a) by Katariina
Yet another Finnish woman has joined the 8a club as Katariina Rahikainen has yesterday climbed 'Fuhuo' at Baihe, China. Congratulations! Katariina's scorecard here.
Konala open & Finnish cup results
Yesterday's bouldering comp in Konala got a huge participation. Detailed results from the open category here. Haven't yet seen the results from the Finnish cup though... Anyway, congrats to the winners!
Check the details at Nalle Hukkataival's blog postings here and here. The highlights included some very hard ascents such as fa of 'Swarm direct' (V13) and repeats of 'Evilution' (V12) and 'Mandala ss' (V13/14). Whoa!
Finnish Cup results from Tampere
1. Gullsten Anthony
2. Huhtikorpi Kuutti
3. Kelloniemi Ilari
4. Koskela Ville
5. Kiesiläinen Sampo
6. Silvola Elias
1. Jaakkola Eevi
2. Nordman Matilda
3. Jokivirta Mina
4. Bertling Enni
5. Haime Katariina
6. Tiira Anna-Maija
Detailed results with qualifications downloadable here (in PDF format). Winners of the open category were Lauri Hämäläinen and Marjut Vierimaa. Congrats!
Lauri Hämäläinen has done fast work with 'Bon Viatge' (8a) and 'Energia Positiva' (7c+) at Terradets, Lleida area, Spain. Good job!
Even more Geyik Bayiri action
Geyik Bayiri is certainly among the most popular holiday spots for Finnish climbers at the moment. Skinny Mike (a.k.a. Mikko Mäkelä) has just returned from the area with a nice tick list in his pocket. The most remarkable ascents include 'Richtfest' (8a), 'Pumping On Big Mother's Breasts' (7c+) and 'Yin Yang' (7c flash). Nice!
OPM in Turkey
Olli-Petteri Manni has published a nice story (in Finnish) about his recent one week trip to Geyik Bayiri, Turkey. For such a short trip he did an impressive number of hard routes including three 8a+'s and an on-sight to 'Plastik Fantastik' (8a). Details at Olli's blog.
'Turkish Airways' by Ilari
Ilari Kelloniemi has climbed 'Turkish Airways' (8a+) about a week back at Geyik Bayiri, Turkey. Congratulations!
Andy in Swizzy
Early winter put an abrupt end to the climbing season in Finland but at least
Andy Gullsten has been able to continue his season in Switzerland. During the last three weeks he has ticked 'Kirk Windstein' (8a+), and a bunch of 8a's including 'Jungle Book ss', 'Fake Pamplemousse', 'La Boule', 'Frank's Wild Years', 'Freak Brothers', 'Marilyn Monroe' and 'Cellar Door' (flash!).
Nalle dominated at IMS
Nalle Hukkataival has won a bouldering comp arranged on side of the IMS (International Mountain Summit) at Bressanone, Italy. The event was participated by many hard core boulderers such as Kilian Fischhuber, Paul Robinson and Guillome Glarion-Mondet. Check the details at 27Crags. Alex Puccio was the first in the female category.
Results from Nordic Championships
Toyota Kiipeilyareena at Helsinki offered an excellent venue for the 2010 Nordic Championships in difficulty. Routes were set by Christian Bindhammer and the event got participation from all Nordic countries, excluding Iceland. The winners were Magnus Midtboe and Tina Hafsaas from Norway. Results from the finals below. Full results at the pages of SKIL.
1. Magnus Midtboe (NOR)
2. Anthony Gullsten (FIN)
3. Tomi Nytorp (FIN)
4. Magnus Högström (SWE)
5. Geir Söderin (SWE)
6. Sindre Saether (NOR)
6. Olli Manni (FIN)
8. Anton Johansson (FIN)
9. Eirik Olsen Birkelund (NOR)
10. Kuutti Huhtikorpi (FIN)
1. Tina Hafsaas (NOR)
2. Matilda Nordman (FIN)
3. Malin Holmberg (SWE)
4. Michelle Theisen (DEN)
5. Katariina Haime (FIN)
6. Minna Ruokonen (FIN)
7. Anna Laitinen(FIN)
8. Iines Fager (FIN)
9. Eerika Lipsanen (FIN)
Leena Rauramo joins 8a club
Leena Rauramo has climbed 'Adios Pepito' (8a) at Rodellar. The route is 45 meters long and Leena describes it as a real endurance fest. Big congrats!
'7 Veljestä' by Paavo
Paavo Ikonen repated '7 Veljestä' (8a+) at Nurmijärvi last Saturday. He was very near to do the line on June, but had to take time out because of the heat wave. Congratulations!
Late NC comp results
Important piece of news that got dropped from the news flow two weeks back: Andy Gullsten took bronze at boulder NC after Daniel Andersson (SWE) and Magnus Midtboe (NOR). Kuutti Huhtikorpi was fourth. Anna Laitinen was 6th among women, the gold was taken by Anja Hodann (SWE). Detailed results at the pages of Klätterförbundet.
Results from junior NC, Oslo
Finnish youngsters did well at the difficulty youth Nordic Championships in Oslo past weekend. Matilda Nordman and Katariina Haime won their age categories (Youth A and B respectively), Elias Silvola and Henri Haime took 2nd and 3rd positions in A category. Very good placings also outside the podium!
Ode Siivonen and Tatu Autio have climbed the north face of Eiger couple of days ago. The actual ascent took 16 hours and was followed by a night in a bivy at top before descent next day. More photos at Cohkka (News 5/5).
Weather has been almost prime for season's last sending sprees and here's a collection of some notable ascents from many different sources.
On Saturday Esko Hautanen repeated 'Buu-klubben' (8a) and couple of weeks back he did 'Piru on irti' (7c+/8a) at Olhava. Lasse Nuutinen who has also done 'Piru on irti' earlier this summer, repeated 'Nummisuutari' (8a/+) last week.
On the boulder side Anton Johansson repeated '1up' (8b) and 'Unusual suspect' (8a) at Myllis last week. The latter was also repeated by Anssi Venho, who did 'Asterix' (8a) at Rokokallio few weeks earlier. Andy Gullsten has visited Turku area and climbed for example 'Kellarijengi' (8a) and flashed 'Musikantti ss' (7c+). At Jyväskylä area Esko Hautanen has repeated 'Hamsteri' (8a) and yesterday both Jani Lehtola and Sami Romppainen repeated 'Forte Risoluto' (8a). Abroad, Nalle Hukkataival managed to climb several hard lines at MtEvans before the road was closed for the winter season. In addition to the ascents reported earlier, he sent 'Butterfinger' (8b) FA, 'Clan of the Cave Bears' (8b), 'Stuntin' season' (8b), 'The Great War for Civilisation' (8b) and 'Little House on the Prairie' (8a+).
Hard sends by Sami
Strongman Sami Haapakoski has also done some hard climbing lately. On last week he repeated 'Unusual suspect' (8a) at Myllis and on last Saturday 'Sulttaani' (8a+) at Nummi.
'Transgressor' repeated by OPM
Olli-Petteri Manni has made a very quick first repeat to 'Transgressor', a hard trad line by Perttu Ollila at Kattilamäki, Sauvo (see the news 18.8. about the first ascent). According to Olli, the ascent was completed in one session requiring a single top rope rehearsal before the actual lead. Olli's suggests 7c for the grade.
One may wonder, does your subjective feeling of grading change when your climbing level rises above certain level. In this case anyway, Olli should know what he's talking about, as he has climbed about 25 8a level routes (sport & trad) during two years. That said, extremely good work!
Hard repeats by Jani Lunnas
What comes to hard repeats, Jani Lunnas has had a productive summer. After repeating 'Texas Ranger' (8a+) at Ruhankallion on July, he climbed a linkup of 'Escape Artist' to 'Texas Ranger'. 'Bruce Lee variation' (8a+) adds 7 moves to the original 'Texas Ranger' and no pre-clipping is required. Couple of weeks ago Jani repeated 'Matador' (8a) at Falkberget and last Saturday 'Kultakanta' (8a+) at Haukkavuori. Nice!!
'Fyysikko' (8b) by Jani Lehtola
Jani Lehtola made yesterday probably the second repeat of 'Fyysikko' (8b) at 28.7, Jyväskylä. Jani thinks the route holds 8b traverse grade. 'Fyysikko' was established by Tomi Nytorp on 2005 and was repeated last fall by Marko Kauko.
Despite of getting a nasty flapper to his right mid finger, Nalle Hukkataival seems to be having a good start for his US trip. The hardest tick this far has been a repeat to Daniel Woods problem 'Evil backwards' (8b+) at Wolverineland, Mt Evans. Probably more to come... Source: TheLowDown at UKClimbing.
'Diablo' (8a) by Jarmo
Jarmo Annunen has yesterday climbed 'Diablo' (8a) at Niemisel, Sweden. On spring Jarmo made a public promise to climb an 8a graded route in 2010 or otherwise he'll quit climbing altogether... Happily no need for such a bad move, so congrats Jarmo!
'Gare au Grand Gourou', an 8a+ onsight by Tomi
Tomi Nytorp has returned from a month long climbing trip to France. Among multi-pitch climbs in Verdon and La Jonte, he visited a small sports cliff at Vallee du Giffre, where he managed to on-sight 'Gare au Grand Gourou' (8a+). This was the first on-sight of this level to Tomi and probably to a Finnish climber in general. Congratulations!
The end of the summer has been slow but some ascents to mention: Pasi Penttinen has made probably the first repeat of 'Kivifetissi' (8a+) at Haukkavuori and Martin Nugent repeated 'Nummisuutari' (8a/+?) at Nummi. On yesterday Esko Hautanen repeated 'Pavarotti' (8a) at Jynkkä, Kuopio. On the boulder side, Aki Nurminen has repeated 'Unusual Suspect' (8a) at Myllis, Espoo.
Nummi ascents by Andy
Andy Gullsten has yesterday made a rapid 3rd go ascent to 'Sulttaani' (8a+) at Nummi. About a week ago he repeated 'Sheriffi' (8a), another Nummi testpiece.
'Transgressor' by Perttu
A free translation of Perttu's description about his recent hard ascent:
"On the first of August I climbed a major project of mine at Sauvo. 'Transgressor' is not an actual crack line, but it follows a clear rock formation on the steep main face of Kattilamäki until to the top at 25 meters height. It starts aggressively from a large pedestal. From here on the moves are manageable, but especially on the lower section they have to be freezed for placing solid gear. Although the placements get easier on the upper part, the moves do not.
It may tell something about the nature of 'Transgressor' that one belayer refused to belay me when he saw the line. Another belayer refused to continue belaying after two lead falls. Fortunately I have brave belayers! Making a clean ascent consumed so much of my resources that finally at the top I had 'feelings of nine'. One of the most beloved of my trad ascents."
- Perttu Ollila -
Finnish grade 9 corresponds roughly to about 8a French grade. Big congrats to Perttu!
Andy Gullsten has updated his scorecard with several hard ascents at Céüse. These include redpoint of 'Dures Limites' (8c), flash ascents to 'Encore' and 'Le Poinconneur des Lilas' (both 8a+) and several 8a's.
Saku Korosuo has climbed 'Eventyrblanding' (8a) at Flatanger, Norway. Nice story and photos at Saku's blog.
'Bah Bah Black Sheep' (8c+) by Andy
From the trusty blog of Sakari McGregor: "Andy Gullsten has climbed 'Bah Bah Black Sheep' (8c+) in Céüse".
The line situates at sector Biographie, and it was established by Dave Graham on 2002. This was probably the second 8c+ ascent by a Finn after Nalles success with 'Duele la realidad' at Oliana last January. Congratulations!!
"On Saturday, I managed to free one of the projects of Mustavuori at Mäntyharju. 'Mestari Globulus' situates on the cliff's main overhang, runs over a beautiful and very steep crack system ending to the left side of the mid height ledge. With 8 meters continuous overhang on 20 meters length, the line may actually be the steepest sports climb in Finland. Action can be described as intensive and technical with rather poor chalking opportunities. Super nice line in my opinion!
About the grade then... Considering the amount of effort, have to say that this route may be the hardest I've climbed so far. As I feel that it really is at least 2 grades harder than couple of the steepest 8a routes in Finland, I dare to propose 8b. Repeats will be the key to settle the real level.
The process of getting convinced about do-ability, figuring out the moves and sequences, and finally succeeding with the ascent has been a pleasure and a nice learning opportunity. Thanks also to my belay b*tch Johannes Puranen who btw made a full-trad ascent to 'Komiat Pärjää Aina' recently at Mustavuori!"
- Rami Haakana -
Matilda climbed 'Habahuba'
Matilda Nordman has repeated 'Habahuba', a hard 7c+ at Piruntädinkallio, Sauvo. The route was opened by Jouni Nordman on July 2009.
Bouldertehdas opens in Turku
A brand new indoor bouldering facility will open in Turku hopefully at the end of August. According to their web pages there will be about 500 sqm floor area with 400 sqm of walls. Bouldertehdas is found by a local brilliant climber Olli-Petteri Manni, so we can expect well thought wall profiles. Nice!! You can follow the progression of the building project from the blog of Bouldertehdas.
La Chronique de la Haine Ordinaire
Andy Gullsten has today climbed his first 8c sports route, 'La Chronique de la Haine Ordinaire' at sector Biographie, Céüse. The ascent required two goes, although Andy has tried the route last year. Source and details: Sakke's blog.
Also from the same source: Anton Johansson has about two weeks ago climbed 'Riverbed' (8b) at Magic Wood, Switzerland.
'Finska Skriket' fa by Saku
Saku Korosuo has just opened a new hard line at Rösåsberget, northern Sweden. 'Finska Skriket' is an intensive sports climb on the steepest part of the cliff's and Saku suggests solid 8a for the grade. Congratulations!! Story, details (in Finnish) and nice photos at Saku's blog.
'Dark Sakai' (8b) fa by Andy
Anthony Gullsten has opened a new hard boulder line at Magic Wood, Switzerland. 'Dark Sakai' is a direct version of 'In search of time lost' and situates at the Darkness cave. The suggested grade is 8b. In addition Andy made a quick, bit over an hour ascent to 'Deep Throat' (8b). Source and details at Sakari's blog.
During his return trip from Norway, Nalle Hukkataival has repeated two hard lines 'Lada Miestä Kuljettaa assis' (8a+) at Louhua and 'Paddington' (8a+) at Jyväskylä. For the latter however, he suggests a downgrade to 8a. Story, photos and detailed ticklist at Nalle's blog.
Sami Romppainen has also had a productive midsummer. During the past weeks he has repeated at least two classics: 'Mahjongg' at Nunnanlahti (Juuka) and 'Marvin' at Keljonkangas, Jyväskylä area. Both these are rated 8a. Details and videos about the ascents at the pages of Työväenkiipeilijät.
Jani Lehtola has added a very nice video about his early June FA of 'Edge of Darkness' (8b) to his blog
Yesterday another testpiece at Tampere area,'Smeagol' (8a+), got it's first repeat by Ville Koskela. The line situates at Mäyrävuori (Kangasala) and was opened by Tomi Nytorp on 2004. With only about 8 meters height and very bouldery nature, Ville thinks it's hard to estimate the grade. Anyway the crux section is about 7c boulder and the ascent required 9 tries from Ville. "About one grade stiffer than 'Missä ote?'. A compromise grade 8a :)". Congratulations!
'Missä ote?' repeated by Ville
Late, but inspiring news from early June: Ville Koskela has repeated 'Missä ote?', a stiff, slightly overhanging line at Viitapohja, Tampere area. The line was opened already 11 years ago by Sami Salonen and has remained unrepeated until Ville's effort. The original grade suggestion was 7c but 7c+/8a is probably more on the right range. A video about the ascent is available at Vimeo.
According to his scorecard at 8a.nu, Nalle Hukkataival has flashed 'Fokus' (Harbak) and 'Talib' (Vingsand), both 8a+. He also opened 'Rough Gem' (8b) at Lofoten. This was his other route of this grade after the FA of 'Diamanten' reported earlier.
Early summer ascents
Matilda Nordman has been tripping in Lake Como area, Italy, where she has climbed 'Bulldog' (7c+), 'Sgoing' (7c) and 'Turbolenta' (7c), the last one on-sight! Jari Pöllänen has climbed 'Diabolic Feelings' (8a+) at Niemisel and Valtteri Ritamäki's 'Buu Klubben' (8a) at Siuntio. On May Esko Hautanen repeated 'Matador' (8a) at Falkberget. Nice work!
Update: Pasi Sjöman has also repeated 'Matador' on 20th June.
Andy's Magic Wood ticks
According to Sakari McGregor's excellent blog Andy Gullsten has this far climbed several hard boulder lines in Magic Wood, Switzerland. These include 'One Summer in Paradise' (8b), 'Pura Vida' (8a+) and 'Massive Attack' (8a+). More ascents in Andy's scorecard.
Aki Nurminen has yesterday repeated 'Hattivatti' (8a) at Myllis, a creation of Andy Gullsten few weeks back. Aki has had a good year as he has previously repeated several other 8a's such as 'Koopa', 'Hottentotti' and 'Zion train'.
Edge of Darkness
Jani Lehtola has yesterday climbed one of the hardest projects at Louhua boulder. 'Edge of Darkness' weights in at around 8b.
The line seemed to be a serious challenge for Jani who is no stranger for hard lines and determined projecting. As the bad slopers and hooks are making the line very weather dependent, Jani was forced to shift to night sessions. Hence the name 'Edge of Darkness'. In total some 25 sessions plus some slimming was required before the mission was completed. Well done!
Rocinante by Sami
After winning his category in the youth Finnish championships on April, Sami Koponen has been having nice rising trend on real rock. Today he repeated 'Rocinante' (7c+) at Vuorivaara. Nice! We'll probably hear about this 15 years old chap from Joensuu later on...
The blog of Björn Pohl tells that Nalle Hukkataival has managed to send the Diamanten project at Vingsand, Trondheim area. The grade is estimated to be at 8b/8b+ range. In a case that this rumour is truthful, the line would be the hardest boulder in Norway. Check the Björn's blog for further information.
Perttu Ollila has spent some quality time at Costa Blanca on May. His target was to climb all the big adventurous lines at the back areas of Echo Valley and also to climb some hard limestone route with no fixed gear. This target culminated to the proud ascent of 'Mad Dog' (8a, E8 6c)!
Koopa by Ilari
Ilari Kelloniemi has repeated 'Koopa' (8a), a strenuous dyno problem at Myllis, Espoo. Ilari has been having a strong spring as in addition to this and several other hard repeats, he has opened 'Nokipolvi sit-start' (8a+) at Valkeavuori, Turku. More details at Ilari's scorecard.
More Myllis action by Andy
Yesterday the route crusher Andy Gullsten got again loose at Myllis and the results were more than decent... First he opened a new right starting variation to the 'Usual Suspect'. The new line is called 'Unusual Suspect' and the grade suggestion is 8a (foto). After this he repeated 'Super Mario' (8a+). Not bad!!
Andy crushes at Myllis
Despite of hot weather, Andy Gullsten had QUITE a good day at Myllyjärvi yesterday.
First he opened a new line which starts from the starting holds of 'Pot smoker' and heads to up right topping out 'Endless hangover'. The creation was named 'Hattivatti' and Andy suggests 8a for the grade. Next he repeated 'Eskimo' (8a+), a 30 moves traverse that ends with 7c+ boulder 'Usual suspect ss' on his first try this season. Next in a row was 'Koopa' (8a) which he climbed on fifth try. 8a, 8a and 8a+ on a same session... whoa. Check the details at Andy's blog!
Andy had also a good First of May trip to Åland. He repeated lines such as 'Dodo sitstart' (8a+), 'Mongooli' (7c+/8a? flash), 'Hello Africa' (7c+) and was progressing well with 'Normipäivä' (8b) before a hold broke off at the top. The line may now be 8b+. Two weeks back he repeated 'Hottentotti ss' (8a+) also at Myllis.
Climbing limitations at Hyvinkää area
SKIL informs that there will be climbing limitations at Hyvinkää area on June, due to Jukolan viesti, the biggest annual orienteering event in Finland. Climbing will be prohibited at Jaanankallio and Piilolampi on 18th to 20th June. A map of the competition area can be found here and the homepage of the event from here.
Matilda shakes the tree
According to her scorecard, Matilda Nordman has climbed 'Shake My Tree' (7c+) at Nummi past weekend!
Tiedote: '7 veljestä' Nurmijärvellä
'7 veljestä' reitti Nurmijärvellä on ollut viimeaikoina erittäin suosittu projektoinnin kohde. Rapean kivilaadun ja lisääntyneen trafiikin seurauksena reitiltä on irtoamassa useita otteita ja reitti on nopeasti muuttumassa kiipeilykelvottomaksi.
Maanantaina 3.5. tullaan muutaman avainotteen kiinnipysymistä varmistamaan liimauksella. On erittäin toivottavaa että liiman annetaan rauhassa kuivua, eikä reittiä työstettäisi maanantain eikä tiistain aikana!
Briefly in English: loose holds on route '7 veljestä' at Nurmijärvi are going to be glued on Monday 3rd May. In order to ensure proper gluing it's advised not to work this route on Monday and Tuesday!
New hard line at Hurissalo
Työväenkiipeilijät reports that Mika Hinkkanen has opened a longstanding project at the main area of Hurissalo, Puumala. 'Klonkku' (8a) starts from 'Sisun Suklaa', continues to left and tops out 'Kolokukko'. Good work and congrats!!!
Update: Check the story about the ascent at Mika's blog (in Finnish).
'Feel Good Inc' (8b) repeat
Andy Gullsten continues his more than an average bouldering season. Yesterday he repeated Nalle's 'Feel Good Inc' (8b) at Sipoo. Last Tuesday, on his 8th climbing day in row btw, he made a quick repeat to 'Spider Pig' (8a) and on the same day he added a nice linkup of 'Gammamamma' (7b) and 'Whacking day' (7b+) at the Globalist stone. 'Season of Rain' weights in at around 7c+. Let's hope the weather in Åland will be favourable around first of May. If so, we might see some impressive stuff from Andy!
Nalle Hukkataival has been active with an without a rope. Last week at Siuntio he made a fast second go ascent to 'Buu Klubben' (8a, sports) and flashed 'Totoro' (8a, boulder).
Anna sent 'Idefix ss' (8a)
Anna Laitinen made today real Finnish climbing history by sending 'Idefix ss' (8a) at Sipoo! This is the first boulder line of this grade sent by a Finnish woman. She was about to send this powerful and technical route earlier this week, as she fell several times from the top jug. Big congratulations!
Bit from here and there, on the photos: Anna competing at Koivukylä and Sauli Kiema on 'Idefix ss'
'7 Veljestä' encore
Jani Lehtola from Oulu did another ascent to '7 Veljestä' on Saturday. Jani, who has ticked several lines of this difficulty, also feels that the grade is around 8a+ with the latest beta. This was the third repeat on this spring after Andy Gullsten and Sami Haapakoski.
Finnish championships in difficulty were competed today at Kiipeilykeskus, Tapanila. Podium results of adult male and female categories below. Detailed results of all categories available in pdf -format. Congratulations to the winners and thanks to Kaisa Rajala for delivering the results.
1. Manni Olli-Petteri
2. Gullsten Anthony
3. Huhtikorpi Kuutti
1. Nordman Matilda
2. Lipsanen Eerika
3. Laitinen Anna
'Hypergravity' by Andy
The unstoppable Andy Gullsten keeps on ticking the hardest boulder lines. Yesterday he climbed 'Hypergravity' (8b) at Sipoo. This line was opened by Nalle Hukkataival on 2004 and it has seen only one repeat by Tomi Nytorp (2005). Andy describes the line as his 'first 8b'. Photo: Nalle on Hypergravity.
Turku and Nurmijärvi action
As the prime bouldering season proceeds, new hard ascents pop up at accelerating pace. Yesterday the Nurmijärvi test piece '7 Veljestä' (8b) saw it's third repeat by Sami Haapakoski.
Last weekend Andy Gullsten, who repeated this line about week back, struck Turku hard time. He climbed 'Matahari' (8a) at Luolavuori in one session and added a new right starting sitstart variation 'Gipsy grooves' (8a). Nice story and photos on Andy's blog.
'7 Veljestä' by Andy
As many have already red from the forum, Anthony Gullsten has yesterday repeated '7 Veljestä' (8b) at Nurmijärvi boulder.
Bouldering Finnish Championships
Results from the finals of today's Bouldering Finnish Championships at Tampere:
Delayed spring seems not to slow down Andy Gullsten, who seems to be in flames. Today, in a snowfall, he managed to repeat 'Listerie' (8a+) at Angelniemi. This was 3rd ascent to the line after Tomi Nytorp and Nalle Hukkataival. Congrats!
Ilari Kelloniemi, Kuutti Huhtikorpi and Anthony Gullsten had a promising start for their outdoor season yesterday. Conditions were freezy but the triplet managed to repeat 'Euphoria' (8a), a Markku Tawast testpiece at Angelniemi near Salo. The line saw its first ascent already on 1999 and Tomi Nytorp bagged the 1st rep on 2006 (see the news 3.5.2006). Nice!!!
Finnish cup results - Konala
Late results from the last weekend's Finnish cup competition at Konala, Helsinki:
1. Anthony Gullsten T4
2. Kuutti Huhtikorpi T2/B2
3. Ilari Kelloniemi T1/B3
4. Markus Fogelholm B3
5. Joonas Selänniemi B2
6. Matti Kivinen B2
6. Jouni Rantanen *
1. Roosa Huhtikorpi T2/B2
2. Anna Laitinen T2/B1
3. Matilda Nordman T1
4. Katariina Haime -
5. Mina Jokivirta -
*) placed 6th in the qualifications, did not participate the finals
Results from the open competition can be found at the pages of Boulderkeskus.
Identifacation y Placas
Another 8c level ascent by Nalle at Oliana. According to his scorecard
the ascent was not easy: "Had to try very very hard. I felt like I was gonna black out clipping the anchor." Nice!!!
'Full Equipe' (8c) by Nalle
Nalle Hukkataival has yesterday bagged 'Full Equipe' (8c) at Oliana, Spain. Nalle suspects that this may be the first ascent since hold broke at crux. During his extended trip to Spain, he has also done two 8b's: 'Photo-shot' at Margalef and 'Minichulo' at Oliana. Source 8a.nu scorecard.
Results from Lappicup 2010, Rovaniemi
1. Olli-Petteri Manni
2. Henri Haime
3. Jani Lehtola
1. Matilda Nordman
2. Teresa Harjula
3. Mira Nummi
The Climbing magazine has granded their 2009 Golden Piton award to Nalle Hukkataival in bouldering category. More details here.
'Duele la realidad' (8c+) sport route by Nalle!
Björn Pohl reports that Nalle Hukkataival has made a first repeat of Marcus Bock's 'Duele la realidad', an 8c+ sport route at Oliana, Spain. Nalle has been solely dedicated to bouldering but the bad weather around Europe has made him to try something different. The fact that this is the first route of this grade level climbed by a Finn makes this ascent even more remarkable. Extremely nice!!!
At the moment Nalle is working the adjacent hard project bolted by Chris Sharma.
Nalle Hukkataival has managed to send his super hard project near Ticino, Switzerland. According to his blog the route is 20 moves long with intense climbing and wild crux moves. Hence the name 'Ninja Skills'. The grade suggestion is 8b+.
Andy Gullsten and Matilda Nordman were the superior winners in the latest Asemaboulder comp. Detailed results at the pages of Klondyke wall.
News from Switzerland and Austria
Nalle Hukkataival tells in his blog about the latest hard ascents. Among trying hard projects, he has climbed 'Conquistador', (8a+) and 'Confessions of a Crap Artist low' (8a+) at Chironico. At Maltatal Austria he climbed 'The Power of Goodbye' (8b), 'Wrestling with an Alligator' (8b) and flashed 'Marmelade auf der Shulter' (8a).
Another roadtripper Kuutti Huhtikorpi is also in good form as he climbed couple of weeks back a classic 'Deep Throat' (8b) at Magic wood (source MTK).
Finnish domination at the Bouldering NC
Nordic Championships 2009 in bouldering were competed at Nykøbing, Falster, Denmark. Congratulations to Anna Laitinen and Tomi Nytorp, who brought both the gold medals to Finland! Other finnish positions, female: Roosa Huhtikorpi 5th, male: Jarkko Linkosuonio 6th, Joonas Sailaranta 7th, Sauli Kiema 13th.
Matilda Nordman climbed her way to the finals and placed 7th in her age category at the European Youth Series, Kranj. Her final position in the whole cup is 12th. Big congratulations! Detailed results at the pages of IFSC.
Jarkko on 'The Riverbed'
According to his scorecard, Jarkko Linkosuonio has yesterday climbed 'The Riverbed' (8b) at Magic Wood, Switzerland. Congrats!
Adrian and Olli in Yosemite
Adrian Pollard and Olli Koiso-Kanttila returned last weekend from their excursion to Yosemite. Their main achievent was maybe a rapid 16h 48min ascent to 'The Nose' on 9th October. Adrian describes their preparation and the ascent as follows:
"We started climbing on 4:45, well before the morning twilight and did the route in three blocks. Olli led the first 11 pitches, I did the next 15 and Olli the last 5. During the ascent we passed 2 portaledges and 4 other pairs.
Before this ascent we had climbed 12 different multi-pitches and started to think if 'The Nose' would be doable in less than 24 hours. The route was familiar to me beforehand and we had trained speed by climbing several routes in blocks with second jumaring. These routes included 'South Face' at Washington Column (15 pitches), Chouinard/Herbert at Sentinel Rock (15 p) and 'West Face' at El Capitan (20 p). All these were done in less than 10 hours and maybe this encouraged us to try 'The Nose'. We had also trained free climbing by doing 'Rostrum', 'Moratorium', 'Steck Salathé', etc. For our own surprise we managed to do 'Rostrum' (5.11c) on-sight."
Our man in Sweden
Saku Korosuo has been effectively exploiting the good friction during past weeks. A week ago he dispatched 'Diablo' (8a) in Niemisel and yesterday 'Milestone' (8a) at Midskogs, Stora väggen. Nice indeed!
Jarkko Linkosuonio has shifted to a new grade level by redpointing 'Los 40 Ladrones' (8b+) at Ali Baba cave, Rodellar. The route is graded 8b+/8c at the topo. Big congratulations!
'Fyysikko' (8b), a Tomi Nytorp testpiece from 2005 got today it's first repeat by Marko Kauko. Congratulations! Photo at 27crags news.
'City No' by Roosa
Roosa Huhtikorpi climbed yesterday 'City No' (8a) at Ali Baba cave, Rodellar. In the 8a.nu scorecard she comments that it's hard to say about the grade. Anyway, this might be the first time a Finnish female climber manages to climb a route graded this hard abroad. Congratulations!
Jarkko Linkosuonio has also been in good form. About a week back he climbed 'Manus' (8b) at Rodellar, also in the Ali Baba cave. Earlier on July, he did 'L'ami de Tout de Monde' (8b) and 'Sueurs Froides' (8a+) at Céüse. His hardest onsight was 'La Femme Noire' (7c+). On the same trip Kuutti Huhtikorpi climbed 'Violent Illusion' (8b), 'Radote joli pépère' (8b) and 'Sueurs Froides' (8a+), which he did second go. The flash attempt was interrupted by knee dislocation. Ouch! Kuutti also onsighted 'Le Magicien' (7c+).
Nummi project climbed by Martin
One of the very last projects at Nummi was freed on Tueday by Martin Nugent. The line situates between 'Sulttaani' and 'Abacab' and shares the last bolt and the anchor with the latter. The climbing can be described as steep and technical with reachy moves. The route got name 'Fors Fortuna' and according to Martin the grade is 'stiff' 8a+. Good work!
Repeats from August include Mika Hinkkanen's ascent to 'Wild Side' (8a) at Haukkavuori and Antti Mankinen's repeat of 'Buu-klubben' (8a) at Siuntio.
European Youth Cup - Munich
Finnish placings at the European Youth Cup past weekend: Matilda Nordman 15th of 38 competitors (Youth A), Anthony Gullsten 16th of 38 (Juniors) and Elias Silvola 34th of 41 (Youth B). Detailed results.
Results from Nordic Championships
The lead NC2009 was competed in Kviberg, Sweden. Tomi Nytorp took bronze and Anton Johansson placed seventh. No Finnish competitors in the female category. Congratulations to Tomi!
1. Magnus Midtbø, Norge
2. Magnus Högström, Sverige
3. Tomi Nytorp, Finland
4. Geir Söderin, Sverige
5. Tomas Tobiasson, Norge
6. Erik Carlsson, Sverige
7. Anton Johansson, Finland
8. Said Belhaij, Sverige
9. Tarjei Hamre, Norge
10. Sören Andersen, Danmark
1. Malin Holmberg, Sverige
2. Hanna Midtbø, Norge
3. Matilda Söderlund, Sverige
4. Lisen Sparre, Sverige
5. Cecilia Horak, Sverige
6. Anine Eriksen, Norge
7. Maria Sandbu, Norge
Summer 2009 repeats in Finland
This summer has offered some nice climbing weathers in Finland and here's an all-but-complete summary of some harder end repeats from June to August. There must be many more climbs worth to report, but here are the ones we've heard of.
Starting from the hardest, Olli-Petteri Manni made the first repeat to Martin Nugent's 'Kära Dagbok' (8b) at Siuntio and Jani Lunnas to Tomi Nytorp's 'Texas Ranger' (8a+) at Ruhankallio, Tervakoski. OPM and Jani estimate the grades being at 8b and 8a+ respectively. On June, Finland's Dave Graham Sauli Kiema climbed 'Estrella' (8b) at Nummi and on August he onsighted 'Tohtori Gaussin Käyrä' (7c) at Mustavuori, Mäntyharju. 'Buu-klubben' (8a) has been repeated at least by Anssi Venho, Olli-Petteri Manni, Rami Haakana and Marko Wallin. OPM and Anssi also repeated 'Vacuum' (8a) at Klöverberget before the climbing ban. Couple of weeks back Jani Lunnas flashed 'Veri vetää itään'
at Haukkavuori and Rami Haakana 'Hybridi' at Kerimäki. Both these lines are at 7c/7c+ range.
Matildas August climbs
Matilda Nordman (16) has sent good number of hard lines during August. The most remarkable is the second female ascent to 'Buu-klubben' (8a) at Siuntio. She has also dispatched testpieces such as 'Alibi' (7c) and 'Tornado' (7b+) at Nummi, 'Ekoterrori' (7c) at Meisala and 'Perusmättö' (7b+) at Piruntädin kallio, Sauvo. Nice!!
Nalle Hukkataival has opened his hardest to date boulder line 'Living Large' (8c) at Rocklands, South Africa. This scary highball arete took him 12 sessions to complete. Check the details at following blogs:
The new sports center, Salmisaaren liikkuntakeskus, will open on March 2010. The center will have facilities for various sports, but also a large indoor climbing complex with up to 1500 sqm of wall.
The wall complex will consist of a single 29-30 meters high textured wall plus a competition and training walls in two floors. The steepest wall is 16 meters high, overhanging 11 meters, and will thereby offer best training profiles ever seen in capital area!
The people behind the project are Peter Hammer, Joonas Sailaranta and Henrik Suihkonen, all experienced climbers. At the moment Henkka is wrestling with the next wall project, also to be realized in the capital area.
More 'Habahuba' at Sauvo
Jouni Nordman has opened a new hard route at Piruntädinkallio, Sauvo. 'Habahuba' situates at the left end of the cliff and offers nice steepish hold climbing. The grade suggestion is around 7c+/8a and the line was repeated last Thursday by Jouni Rantanen.
Another addition to the cliff is a new warm-up line 'Pirun helppo' (~6c) at the right end of the cliff.
Hard sends at Céüse by Andy
Anthony Gullsten has been doing some great lines at Céüse, France. The top three sends are 'L'ami de tout le monde' (8b), 'Violente illusion' (8b) and a flash ascent to 'Sueurs froides' (8a+)!
Hopeinen Omena by Pasi
Kiipeilijat.net reports that Pasi Penttinen has last Sunday managed to free the longstanding left side project at Vuorivaara. 'Hopeinen Omena' is the name and grade suggestion is 8a. Video available here.
Earlier this summer, Pasi's hard creation from 2007, 'Tarantella' (8a) at Notko cliff, was repeated by Ville Komu.
7c by Matilda Nordman
Matilda Nordman has made a third go ascent to 'Detta är livet' (7c) in Granitgrottan, Bohuslän area, Sweden.
Matilda is 16 years old and started climbing on 2005. She has done several 7b's before this ascent. The promising talent from Turku has also done well in competitions with second place in youth Scandinavian championships to mention.
CLIMBING BANNED AT KLÖVERBERGET!
The landowner of Klöverberget has today banned climbing at the cliff for the time being. The access situation turned sensitive in mid June (see the news 15.6.2009: 'Klöverberget access issue') when a group of Russian climbers were acting noisy at the cliff. Today a group of Russian and/or Latvian climbers (country identified from their cars' register plates) walked over the field to the cliff. This is absolutely forbidden during the growing season. For not to making the situation worse, do not go to the cliff!
In order to not to lose any more of our valuable climbing cliffs, PLEASE do respect the locals and the rules of good manners. This concerns both Finns and foreigners.
Suomeksi: Klöverbergetin maanomistaja on ottanut yhteyttä kallion yhdyshenkilöön ja kieltänyt toistaiseksi kiipeilyn kalliolla. Klöverbergetin access tilanne kärjistyi kesäkuussa, jolloin ryhmä venäläisiä kiipeilijöitä käyttäytyi meluisasti. Tänään ryhmä venäläisiä ja/tai latvialaisia kiipeilijöitä käveli kalliolle suoraan pellon yli mikä on kiellettyä erityisesti kasvukautena. Jotta tilanne ei entisestään huonontuisi, on kalliolle menemistä vältettävä.
Tilanteen muuttumisesta tiedotetaan tällä palstalla/foorumilla/Skil:n sivuilla.
Anthony and Jarkko in Switzerland
Anthony Gullsten and Jarkko Linkosuonio have done some serious bouldering in Switzerland during last couple of weeks. Anthony's tick list consists of five 8a+'s and six 8a's. The hardest lines include 'Unendliche Geschichte 1', 'The left hand of darkness' and 'Jack's broken heart', all 8a+. Jarkko, who is recovering from a serious overtraining, has also climbed three 8a+'s and three 8a's. These include 'The left hand of darkness' and 'The bizarre ride', both 8a+. For more details, surf to 8a.nu Finnish ranking.
Update 2.7. Roosa and Kuutti Huhtikorpi has also been on a road trip to Magic Wood, Switzerland. Along with several lines in 7b/7b+ scale, Roosa has done four 7c's including 'Man of a cow', 'Jack the chipper', 'Foo fighter' and 'Supernova'. Kuutti has done 3 8a+'s: 'Sofasurfer', 'Jack's broken heart' and 'Unendliche Geschichte 2' and six 8a's: 'Muttertag', 'Nothing changes', 'Unendliche Geschichte 2', 'Astronautenfieber', 'The right hand of darkness' and 'Octopussy'. He also flashed 'Man of a cow' (7c).
Matti repeats 'Kellarijengi'
Last Wednesday a fresh father Matti Joensuu managed to send a rarely repeated boulder line 'Kellarijengi' (hard 8a) at Pirunpesä, Turku area.
Jade (V15) by Nalle
Nalle Hukkataival has two days back climbed 'Jade' (V15, roughly 8c) in RMNP, US. More details at
Klöververget access issue
The landowner of Klöverberget (Siuntio) has complained about noise at the cliff last Saturday. In order not to lose access to this fantastic cliff, it's very important to respect all the rules of good manners and act politely.
Suomeksi: Klöverbergetin maanomistaja on valittanut metelistä viime lauantaina. Jotta mahdollisilta access ongelmilta vältyttäisiin, on kalliolla tärkeää noudattaa hyviä tapoja. Pelisäännöistä ja access -asioista lisää SKIL:n access sivulta.
Climbing world cup, Vail
Nalle Hukkataival made it to the semifinals in the IFSC climbing world cup (bouldering) at Vail, USA. However, his 9th position after the qualification dropped to 16th in the final list. The winner was Thomas Baumann (GER), second Daniel Woods (USA) and third Kilian Fischhuber (AUT).
Nissan Outdoor Games
Finnish team 'Golgoht' has this year won the Nissan Outdoor Games at Interlaken, Switzerland. The team members are specialized in differrent outdoor activities and the climber in the 2009 team was Tatu Autio. Details and video material
Youth Cup Imst
Selected results from the European Youth Series difficulty at Imst, Austria: Anthony Gullsten 15th (male juniors) and Matilda Nordman 16th (female youth A). Total amount of participants 40 and 32 respectively. Congrats!
Ehdoton kiipeilykielto Klassikkoainesta-sektorilla joka päivä klo 18 jälkeen ja enintään kaksi köysistöä kerrallaan kyseiselle sektorille!
Reventeenvuoren järven päädyn vakituinen asukas on ollut yhteydessä allekirjoittaneisiin ja valittanut jatkuvasta metelistä Klassikkoainesta-sektorilla tänä keväänä, erityisesti viimeisen kahden viikon aikana. Asukas on käynyt huomauttamasta asiasta paikalla olleille kiipeilijöille, mutta sillä ei ole ollut minkäänlaista vaikutusta, vaan päinvastoin meteli on vain lisääntynyt. Asukas on uhannut ryhtyä toimenpiteisiin, mikäli metelöinti ei lopu. Tilanne on hyvin huolestuttava.
On kaikkien meidän kiipeilijöiden yhteinen etu, että asukas ei häiriinny kiipeilytoiminnasta. Meillä on vielä toistaiseksi hyvä vuorovaikutus hänen kanssaan mutta yksikin metelöivä kiipeilijä voi muuttaa tilanteen konfliktiksi. Kallion kehittämiseen ja reittien tekemiseen on käytetty satoja hyvin raskaita talkootyötunteja ja merkittävästi taloudellista tukea Suomen Kiipeilyliitolta. Olisi valtava menetys suomalaiselle kiipeilylle, jos kallio jouduttaisiin sulkemaan kiipeilyltä vain sen vuoksi, ettei siellä osata käyttäytyä.
Näin ollen noudata ja katso, että muutkin kiipeilijät noudattavat seuraavia sääntöjä:
- järven päädyssä koko Klassikkoainesta-sektorilla ei saa kiivetä klo 18 jälkeen (ma-su)
- sektorilla saa olla yhtä aikaa enintään kaksi köysistöä = neljä henkilöä
- sektorilla ehdoton hiljaisuus. Vältä keskustelua, sillä järven päädyn akustisista ominaisuuksista johtuen kallio heijastaa kaikki äänet vettä pitkin suoraan asukkaan saunan kuistille ja pihaan
- sovi siis köysistösi toiminta kuten pitkillä reiteillä, ilman huutelua
- keskity kiipeilyyn muilla sektoreilla, joilla on valtaosa kallion noin 70 reitistä
- mikäli huomaat metelöintiä, puutu asiaan välittömästi
- mikäli asukas huomauttaa asiasta, ole kohtelias, pahoittele häiriötä ja siirry välittömästi muualle
- parkkeeraa vain kiipeilyparkkiin tai eteenpäin tietä mäen laella oleville levikkeille. Älä tuki traktorin pääsyä pellolle, äläkä aiheuta haittaa liikenteelle pysäköimällä mutkaan mäen alle tien varteen.
- pidä koirat kytkettyinä
- uusien reittien tekeminen on luvanvaraista, ole yhteydessä allekirjoittaneisiin ennen minkäänlaisiin töihin ryhtymistä. Klassikkoainesta-sektori on toistaiseksi jäädytetty uusilta reiteiltä.
Reventeenvuoren kallio on liian hyvä menetettäväksi. Voit omalla toiminnallasi vaikuttaa siihen, että se säilyy käytössämme.
There has been too much noise at the sector Klassikkoainesta at Reventeenvuori. The inhabitant from the other side of the bay has contacted us and is about to take further actions if climbers go on being noisy. Therefore the following rules imply from here on:
- No climbing at the lakeside or at the sector Klassikkoainesta after 6 PM (Mon-Sun)
- Maximum two parties may climb simultaneously at the sector Klassikkoainesta = 4 persons
- Absolute silence at the sector due to the prevailing acoustic characteristics
- Agree upon any actions taken by your party before leaving the ground and use gestures instead of shouting out off belays etc.
- Concentrate climbing at other sectors that have the majority of the cliff’s almost 70 routes
- If you notice anyone being noisy, do not hesitate to interfere immediately
- If the inhabitant comes over to ask you to leave or to be quieter, be polite, regret the disturbance and immediately move to other sectors
- Park only at the parking space or further along the road up the hill. Do not block tractors’ entrance to the cultivated field
- Keep your dog attached
- Making of new routes only upon permit. Contact us before taking any actions. No new routes at the sector Klassikkoainesta are for the time being allowed to be made.
'Revenne' by Perttu
Everyone who has visited at
Reventeenvuori, Iitti, knows the huge and steep crack at the left end of the cliff. Yesterday this line got it's first ascent by who else than the trad-master of South-West, Perttu Ollila. Perttu named the route 'Revenne' and the grade suggestion is around 8-. The route was protected by numerous amount of big camalots. Nice work!
Anna sent 'Buu-klubben' (8a)
Yesterday Anna Laitinen made a first female repeat to 'Buu-klubben' (8a) at Siuntio. This was Anna's first route of this grade and tells about fair talent as she started climbing only at 2007! Anna is now 19 years old and has backround in gymnastics.
The initial version of 'Buu-klubben' was considered 8a/8a+. After a key hold broke leaving a better hold, the grade has settled somewhere around 8a. The line was recently climbed also by Sampo Kiesiläinen.
After winning his age category in Youth Nordic Championships, Anthony Gullsten has been ticking hard on the real rock too. Two days back he did quick work with 'El Toro' (8a+) at Klöverberget. Yesterday at Mustavuori he climbed 'Tohtori Gaussin Käyrä' (7c) and on-sighted 'Karelia Express' (7b+) with solid style. Season has just started so there might be more to come...
Nalle climbs 'Banshousha' (8c)
During his combined competition and bouldering trip to Japan, Nalle Hukkataival has made the first repeat of 'Banshousha' (8c) at Ogawayama, Japan. This line has remained unrepeated since 2000 when it was first climbed by Tokio Muroi. The line too one day to complete and Nalle thinks the more proper grade would be around 8b. Nice! Whole story and a nice video at
Ville climbs Mahjongg
Kiipeilijat.net reports that 'Mahjongg' (8a) at Nunnalahti was repeated by Ville Komu on last Thursday. This beautyful arete was first climbed by Pasi Penttinen and has been repeated at least by Henri Pöyry and Ila Tuunainen.
SM boulder results
Final results from the bouldering Finnish Championships:
1. Nalle Hukkataival
2. Kuutti Huhtikorpi
3. Anthony Gullsten
4. Matti Joensuu
5. Rasse Ruokonen
6. Joonas Sailaranta
top 4 3 2 1 1 0
bonus 4 3 3 4 1 2
1. Roosa Huhtikorpi
2. Anna Laitila
3. Matilda Nordman
4. Ansku Sihvonen
5. Minna Ruokonen
6. Veera Kainiemi
top 4 3 3 3 2 2
bonus 4 3 3 4 3 3
Detailed results to come. The competition was arranged by Skey ry at Boulderkeskus, Helsinki. [rh]
Results page updated
Results from the last three competitions have finally been added to the Results page. Kuutti Huhtikorpi dominated the years two first competitions with Jarkko Linkosuonio as a runner up. On the female category Roosa has been unbeatable.
Enclosed couple of photos from the LappiCup 09 event on 14th February. Thanks to Tapio Alhonsuo! [rh]
Nalle in Hueco
Nalle Hukkataival has dispatched some hard lines at Hueco Tanks, US. Two days back he climbed 'Full Throttle' (V13), 'Algerita' (V13) and flashed 'Le Pelerin' (V12). A week earlier he did 'Alma Blanca' (V13), 'Darkroom' (V12) and flashed 'Diaphanous Sea' (V12). There is probably more to come. For more details surf to Nalle's new blog.
Chuck Fryberger's new bouldering film 'Pure' is getting finished right now. According to the trailer we can expect lot's of inspiring climbing by bouldering celebrities from all over the world. For us Finns the interesting thing is that the principal climber comes from Finland! Nalle Hukkataival ticks some of the hardest boulder lines in the world, including 'The Island' (8c) at Fontainebleau. Mr Lasse was also spotted on the trailer.
The European premiere will be arranged at Boulderkeskus on 7th March. Before that, check out the trailer! [rh]
A new neat point calculation system was applied at Koivukylä during the weekend's contest. The winner was Jarkko Linkosuonio followed by Sami Haapakoski and Anthony Gullsten. Kuutti Huhtikorpi who collected clarly the biggest pile of points during the qualification, was placed fourth. In female category the order was Roosa Huhtikorpi, Mina Jokivirta and Kati Laurell and in the Sunday climbers Madis Tänav, Esa Makkonen and Elias Silvola. Congratulations.
At the moment, results available at the forum only.
About the new point calculation: As usual, the final points per climber are detetermined by summing up points per routes. However, the route specific points are calculated by dividing 2 times the total amount of participants by number of repeats per this specific route. This automatically favours the less repeated routes in the total points. Sounds clever and seems to work fine! [rh]
Top placements in the yesterday's youth NC lead competition:
Kids B (97- )
1. Ida Keckman SWE
2. Isabell Envall SWE
3. Liv Gyllenborg DEN
Kids A (95-96)
1. Katrin Amann SWE
2. Sara Engqvist SWE
3. Katariina Haime FIN
Youth B (93-94)
1. Tina Hafsaas NOR
2. Matilda Nordman FIN
3. Amanda Herskind DEN
Youth A (91-92)
1. Matilda Söderlund SWE
2. Maria Sandbu Davies NOR
3. Anine Eriksen NOR
1. Hannah Midtbo NOR
2. Anna Laitinen FIN
3. Matilda Ljungberg SWE
Kids B (97- )
1. Max Sjöberg SWE
2. Philip Samuelsson Forsdik SWE
3. Hannes Puman SWE
Kids A (95-96)
1. Schwerin Rasmus SWE
2. Oscar Krumlinge SWE
3. Thomas Holm Blaabjerg DEN
Youth B (93-94)
1. Benjamin Linné Ryn SWE
2. Tarjei Hamre NOR
3. Kjartan Jónsson ISL
Youth A (91-92)
1. Anthony Gullsten FIN
2. Viktor Wiksell SWE
3. Emil Jespersen DEN
1. Eirik Birkelund Olsen NOR
2. Jarkko Linkosuonio FIN
3. Erik Grandelius SWE
Nalle Hukkataival took the anticipated first position at the bouldering Nordic Championships. The competition was climbed yesterday and the venue was Lillehammer, Norway. Also Kuutti Huhtikorpi showed strong performance and was placed third after Magnus Midtbø from Norway. In Female category no Finns made it to the finals. The podium was shared by Angelica Lind (SWE), Hannah Midtbø (NOR) and Matilda Söderlund (SWE). Detailed results should be available at bouldercomps.com in the near future. [rh]
Kyberpunk from North
Tapio Alhonsuo has today climbed his infamous mixed project at Käärmerakka, Rovaniemi area. This line, seen in the film Playground, got named 'Kyberpunk'. Tapio's grade suggestion is M10-, meaning that the route is easily the hardest of a kind in Finland.
"It was about the time as I've worked the route for about twenty days now" says Tapio. Freezing nights has allowed just enough ice to form to make the top out possible. "I climbed the route with heelhooks, next I got to try it without!". That would be an effort... Congratulations to Tapio! [rh]
The winner in today's event at Boulderkeskus (Helsinki, Pasila) was superbly but maybe less surprisingly Nalle Hukkataival. The next five in order were Kuutti Huhtikorpi, Matti Joensuu, Anthony Gullsten, Sami Haapakoski and Jarkko Linkosuonio. Roosa Huhtikorpi collected biggest bucket of points in the female category, followed by Minna Ruokonen, Ansku Sihvonen, Mina Jokivirta and Anna Laitinen, all with good margin to the rest. The podium in the A-category (Herrasmiehet) was shared by Jani Mäkinen, Juha Hinkkanen and Tommi Lahtinen and in the Sunday climbers Eetu Koivisto, Koji Moriwaki and Jarmo Romppanen. Congrats to all!
During his recent trip to Rodellar, Jarkko Linkosuonio has climbed 'Le Branlot' (8a/8a+) and 'Familia Manson' (8a+). On the last day of the two week trip he fell from the last move of 'Manus' (8b). [rh]
Late fall cranks by Sami
Sami Haapakoski has climbed a sit start version to Anton Johansson's nameless problem at Merikaarto, Vaasa. The line situates right from 'Senegal Fast Food' and the grade suggestion is 8a or harder. Sami has also been eveding rainy weather at Fontainebleau where he sent lines such as 'Fata Morgana' (8a) and 'Mongolito' (7c+). [rh]
'The Island' (8c) by Nalle
Nalle Hukkataival has yesterday made the first repeat to Dave Graham's 'The Island' in Fontainebleau. This boulder line with reachy moves has proposed grade of 8c, which Nalle thinks is at the right range. Congrats! [rh]
Full 'Syyshämärä' by Marko
Mikkelin Työväenkiipeilijät reports that Marko Kauko from Säynätsalo has last Wednesday sent one of the hardest projects in Finland. The line in question is sit-start to classic 'Syyshämärä' (7b). The grade suggestion is 8b. Nice!! [rh]
European Championships were competed in Paris during the past week. Nalle Hukkataival and Tomi Nytorp participated in the bouldering discipline and their positions after the qualification were 23rd and 31st respectively. Only 21 continued to the semi's which Nalle barely missed. The winner was Jérôme Meyer (FRA), second Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) and third Cédric Lachat (SUI). No Finnish participants in women. Detailed results at
the pages of IFSC. [rh]
Eerika climbs 'Matador' (8a)
Eerika Pawli has today made the first female ascent to 'Matador' (8a) at Falkberget, Kirkkonummi!
Eerika is no stranger to hard routes as she has climbed 'Vacuum' (8a) already at 2001. Today as a mother of two children it requires lot more to get enough into climbing in order to maintain the high level. Eerika has followed her passion and clearly managed to couple the training and motherhood. Big congratulations! [rh]
Tomi Nytorp has managed to flash super steep 'Buu-Klubben' (8a) at Siuntio last Friday. This was the first flash to this route. Whoa!
'Buu-Klubben' has also been climbed by youngsters Jarkko Linkosuonio and Anthony Gullsten. No more youngster Rami Haakana has made the first repeat to Tatu Autio's 'Veri Vetää Itään' at Haukkavuori, Rautjärvi. [rh]
'New Base Line' by Nalle
Another hard ascent by Nalle. This time 'New Base Line' (8b+/8c) at Magic Wood, Switzerland. Details at Nallehukkataival.com[rh]
New lines by Martin and Tatu
On last Friday Martin Nugent managed to climb his longstanding project at Siuntio area. This steep and super physical line has no name yet. Martin says that it's way harder than any of the lines he has established, so we can quess that the grade is at 8b/8b+ range. Tatu Autio has also sent his long standing project at Haukkavuori, Rautjärvi. According to Tatu 'Veri Vetää Itään' felt harder than his spring child 'Autio-Suihkonen' (7c+/8a?). Congratulations to Martin and Tatu! [rh]
Update: Martin's new line is called 'Kära Dagbok'
September climbs and more
Pasi Penttinen has exploited good friction and climbed 'Pavarotti' at Jynkkä cliff, Kuopio. This sustained line was originally graded 7c+ but an upgrade to 8a has been suggested due to breaking of a critical hold. The line has been established by Jani Lunnas and was first repeated by Paavo Ikonen few months back. More ascents: Anton Johansson has repeated 'Buu-klubben' (8a/+) at Siuntio, Rami Haakana and Antti Liukkonen 'Autio-Suihkonen' (7c+/8a?) at Mustavuori, Mäntyharju. At the same cliff Kuutti Huhtikorpi managed to on-sight 'Tohtori Gaussin Käyrä' (7c) and 'Karelia Express' (7b+). More Mustavuori action at Mikkelin Työväenkiipeilijat.
Then to a feast that would deserve own page as such, an inconceivable accomplishment by a veteran rock climber Tuomas Kaario. Last Friday he swam over the English Channel without a wet suit. 'Tomppa' has been active climber for 15 years and been exploring climbs from our own Finnish cliffs to Yosemite. For example his on-sight years back to 'Äksön Crack' (7) at Havukallio would be decent effort for most of us! [rh]
No Man´s Land sitstart
Jani Lehtola has managed to climb a sit-start version to his 'No Man´s Land' at Pyhäntä. He suggests grade 8a+. A
video footage at YouTube. Jani also repeated Nambla (8a) at Rovaniemi. Other hard boulder ascents to mention are Jarmo Annunen's and Sami Saxell's repeats of 'Zion-Train' (8a) at Nurmijärvi. [rh]
Nalle 3rd at Sint Roc Boulder Contest
Arco Rockmaster competition had also this year some blue and white colours. Nalle Hukkataival took part on Sint Roc Boulder Contest arranged along with the main competition. He finished third after Austrians Kilian Fischhuber and David Lama. Congratulations!
The actual Rock Masters this year are Patxi Usobiaga (ESP) and only 15 years old Johanna Ernst (AUS). More details at the pages of Arco Rockmaster. [rh]
Late August ascents
About a week ago Kuutti Huhtikorpi did a quick second ascent to 'Autio-Suihkonen' (8a) at Mustavuori, Mäntyharju. See the news about first ascent on 25th May -08. Marko Wallin and Rami Haakana have repeated 'Nummisuutari' (8a) at Nummi cliff. This line was established by Tomi Nytorp on August -06. [rh]
Men at work
Youngster from Kerava, Jarkko Linkosuonio, had a productive roadtrip to Southern Europe. In Ceüse he did quick work with two classics 'Carte Blanche' and 'Bourinator' and climbed two other 8a's 'Argo' and 'City No' in Rodellar. Also worth mentioning are onsights to 'Vagabond d'Occident' (7c) at Ceüse and 'Meme Pas Mal' (7c) at Orpierre. Not bad!
Despite of rainy weathers in Finland, Lasse Lind has managed to proceed with his Nummi challenge by an ascent to 'Sulttaani' (8a+). Next in line is super crimpy 'Adlon' (8a). [rh]
Nalle Hukkataival has returned from 6 week bouldering trip to Rocklands, South-Africa. In addition to the reported 'Amandla', his ticklist is - to put it mildly - impressive! Check the story and details at www.nallehukkataival.com.
In short Nalle has listed 30 routes of which 26 are 8a or hader with lots of flash ascents. One of the highlights seems to have been 'Sky' (8b+). 'Solar Power' (8a+) and 'Hole in One' (7c+) were first ascents. Nice! [rh]
Nalle climbs 'Amandla' (8c)
Nalle Hukkataival is on a bouldering trip to Rocklands, South-Africa. According to Momentumvmv.com , Nalle sent 'Amandla' (8c) and flashed 'The Amphitheater' (8a+). The former is probably hardest ever boulder ascent by a Finn and the line among the hardest in the world. Source: Mikkelin Työväen Kiipeilijät. [rh]
Picked up from the forum of Kruxi: On Tuesday Jouni Rantanen repeated 'Selibaatti' (8a) at Härmälänrotko, Naantali. This line was established by Olli-Petteri Manni on summer 2006. [rh]
Jani Lunnas has climbed his longstanding project at Haukkavuori, Rautjärvi. The line is about 15 meters high decently overhanging arete with very sustained and technical climbing all the way. Kivifetissi (8a+) required some good commitment from Jani, as for the long distance, he has been able to give only one or two calls per summer to conquer this remotely located project. Excellent work, congratulations! [rh]
Lasse does Estrella
'Estrella' (8b) is the latest addition to Lasse Lind's spectacular ticklist. This repeat from last Saturday was probably the third ever to this Nummi testpiece. Cool!! Only couple of more to go for Lasse at Nummi...
Then a bunch of other recent hard ascents: Olli-Petteri Manni has done quick work with 'Baba Baba Gur Gur' (8a+) at Haukkamäki, Salo area. Young Anthony Gullsten climbed 'Vacuum' (8a) at Klöverberget. Anthony just returned from a climbing trip to Spain, where he redpointed at least two 8a's and flashed a 7c. Sauli Kiema has climbed 'Buu Klubben' (8a/+) at Siuntio and Henri Pöyry 'Diablo' (8a) with three tries at Niemisel, Sweden. [rh]
Hard repeats by Lasse and co
Lasse Lind has been swiftly repeating hard sport climbs around Southern Finland. His continuously groving ticklist from last month include Tesis (8b), El Toro (8a+), Buu Klubben (8a/+) and Sheriffi (8a) and there is more coming for sure... Sheriffi has also got repeats by two young power plants Anssi Venho and Sauli Kiema. Good work! [rh]
Paavo beats Diablo
Jani Lehtola tips us that the former Oulu habitant Paavo Ikonen has finally graduated from the rope academy of Oulu Cave with his redpoint to 'Diablo' (8a) at Niemisel. The ascent took place on last Friday. This was probably fifth Finnish repeat to this route of which four are by climbers from Oulu. Congratulations! [rh]
Franzefoss Brukk by Ansku
Anna-Liisa 'Ansku' Sihvonen has climbed 'Franzefoss Brukk' (7c) at Lökenhavna, Oslo area. The ascent took five tries during two days without rehearsal on top-rope. What makes this achievement so special is that Ansku's wrist was operated last fall and she was told by the doctors that the wrist would not allow her to climb any more. Fortunately the prognosis was wrong... Good work and nice example for younger girls! [rh]
Mongooli by Sami Saxell
Sami Saxell has repeated 'Mongooli' (8a) at Åland. This super steep boulderline situates at Kasviken and was established by Tomi Nytorp on May -06. Good work! [rh]
Below, Perttu Ollila tells about his early June creation at Pärkänvuori, Uusikaupunki. There is also an interesting glimpse of history of this diverse cliff:
'The geo-history of Pärkänvuori has had some tremendous rock falls. An old legend tells that a young couple from Lokalahti was on their way to Vehmaa church to get their wedding banns. Their horse wagon followed the route nearby the northeastern wall of Pärkänvuori. Suddenly an immense rock tumbled down from the top of the cliff. The couple never got married – their crashed skeletons remain under that rock, “Morsiuskivi”. Next to Morsiuskivi is even a more impressive rock. It has fallen out of the main wall, thus creating a huge open cave that the locals used to call “Veskellar”.
In 1998 Mikko Söderlund aid climbed the endless crack of Veskellar, naming his route prophetically “Trad Master”. Last Summer Mikko gave me the idea that I should sink my fingers into this mythical dream climb. This summer I did. On the 2nd of June I red pointed the first free ascent of Trad Master, topping out exhausted, my calves exploding, my skin whipped, but with surprising “easiness”. I refuse to undress the aura of Trad Master by giving it a number which I would sandbag anyway. I also like to step out of the rather mundane grade game. On a purely aesthetic level the free ascent of Trad Master is my southwestern magnum opus – it is unlikely to find another line that is visually so killer cool and has such an amount of uncanny crack climbing. For sure it is the best and hardest dihedral in Finland.'[rh]
Nalle at Colorado
Late news but certainly worth publishing: Check out
nallehukkataival.com for the whopping ticklist of Nalle during his bouldering trip to RMNP and Mount Evans at Colorado. Highlights: a flash to 'No More Greener Grasses' (8a+) and quick ascent to 'Ode to Modern Man' (8b+). Discussion at the following Blog. [rh]
New climbing at Sauvo
Stirring news from South-West Finland. A new cliff is under development at Sauvo, about 25km from Turku. Last week Jouni Rantanen managed to open two routes, 'Pihkatappi' (7b/+) and 'Rajanumero' (8a). Jouni describes the latest testpiece as follows: "Rajanumero suits well to my climbing style. On the crux section it's a feast of balance moves on smallish holds, although it also requires good basic level of strength. At the start of the route there is a beautiful engraving, an old boundary number, hence the name (rajanumero = boundary number).
The first two routes 'Jäätelötyttö' (7a) and 'Perusmättö' (7b+) were established last summer and according to Jouni, there is still lots of potential for new routes. "The cliff offers many different profiles and at best the height is about 25 meters. Lines with quickdraws are still projects, so please, leave those untouched for now. Topo will be sketched during this summer".
Sounds nice! Looking forward for more info... [rh]
Feel good inc.
The last hard project at the 'Spider Pig' -stone Sipoo was climbed by Nalle Hukkataival few days back. Details and photos of 'Feel good inc.' at
Bulls and fighters
Southern Finland news: yesterday Lasse Lind did an ascent to 'El Toro' (8a+) at Klöverberget and on Monday Sampo Kiesiläinen climbed 'Matador' (8a) at Falkberget. Routes were opened by Henrik Suihkonen and Martin Nugent respectively. Including the wondrous on-sight ascent by Tomi Nytorp, Sampo's ascent was about 15th in total, making Matador probably the most popular route of this grade in Finland. First female ascent to be seen... [rh]
Last Wednesday Tatu Autio dispatched one of the hard end projects of Mustavuori at Mäntyharju. The route starts with decently overhanging section and tapers to a crux, a strenuous lock-off well above the fourth bolt. Grade suggestion is at 7c+ - 8a range. The route was a shared project of Tatu and Henrik Suihkonen, hence the name 'Autio-Suihkonen'. Nice!!
Some other nice ascents we've heard from May include Olli-Petteri Manni's on-sight to a technical arete 'Dragon' (7b) at Haukkakallio, Ruotsinpyhtää and Karri Westman's repeat of 'Chuck Norris' (7c+/8a) at Tervakoski. [rh]
Jani Lehtola strikes again
Last weekend Jani Lehtola managed to send another hard project at Oulu region. 'No Man's Land' situates at Pyhäntä, about 100km from Oulu city. The line needed some persistent projecting. During the last season Jani visited the line about 20 times and managed to send the line on third visit this spring. The grade suggestion is 8a. Big congratulations!
Non-edited video footage available of the ascent in YouTube. [rh]
Nalle at Kjugekull
Kjuge blog reports some nice ascents by Nalle Hukkataival during his May day trip. The most impressive of these was a flash to 'Huggsexa' (8a). Another hard dispatches included 'Alla Vill Till Himmelen...' sitstart (8a+) and 'Lithium' low start (8a) plus numerous amount of flashes at the hard end. [rh]
UPDATE! The essential ticklist sent by Nalle himself:
Lithium low start 8A
Matador ss 7C+ FLASH
Ferdinand ss, 7C+
Forza 7C, 2. Go
Casperssens arete 7B, FLASH
Laijfstajl 8A, FLASH
Huggsexa 8A, FLASH
Alla vill till himmelen ss, 8A+ Great!
Mamma Mu 7C+
'Normipäivä' repeated by Bosma
Yesterday on May Day Peter Bosma repeated the Nalle Hukkataival's steep testpiece 'Normipäivä' (8b) at Geta caves, Åland. According to the spectators the ascent looked smooth and effortless. Peter confirmed the grade.
Yesterday Jussi Pöyhönen managed to send one of the last projects and probably the most inspiring line at Louhos, Kuusankoski. 'Matchbox' offers technical and sustained vertical climbing on the middle of the left side wall at the entry of the quarry. The route is marked as a project at sector 5 on the topo. Jussi suggests 7b/7b+ for a grade. Congratulations! [rh]
Important access information concerning the following areas:
Ahvenanmaa / Åland (see below)
Briefly in English about Åland. It is absolutely forbidden to use the private roads. Park at Soltuna Cafe and walk. Wild camping is not allowed in Åland. Avoid excessive use of chalk. Landowners have contacted Finnish Climbing Association already this year.
Louhua spring action
Last Friday Jani Lehtola opened the hardest route to date at Oulu area. The line situates at Louhua boulder and has been a project for 3 years. It adds a sit start to Paavo Ikonen's highball 'Lada Miestä Kuljettaa'. The name is (yes, you quessed it!) 'Lada Miestä Kuljettaa assis' and grade around 8a+.
On Sunday Jani managed to link a 40 move traverse at the same boulder and the outcome is 'Short Circuit' (7c+/8a). With these additions Louhua boulder has become a spot that offers exceptional amount of climbing in one single stone. [rh]
New 8a at Sipoo
Who else than our regular news celebrity Nalle Hukkataival has opened a new hard boulder line at Sipoo. This beautyful highball is called 'Spider pig' and has a grade suggestion around 8a. For more info and a video of the ascent, surf to www.nallehukkataival.com. [rh]
Nalle's Ticino Rampage
Surf to Nallehukkataival.com to see what's Nalle's been up to in the Swiss. Big numbers, even bigger fun!
Nalle's latest Confessions
Yesterday Nalle Hukkataival made probably the first repeat to 'Confessions' (8b+) at Cresciano, Switzerland. Nice! [rh]
Winter ascent of 'Ultima Thule'
A Finnish crew - Adrian Pollard, Saku Korosuo and Sampsa Jyrkynen - made the first ever winter ascent of 'Ultima Thule' at Blåmannen, Northern Norway. Photos and details at Pitoni.fi and Patagonia.fi[rh]
Results from LappiCup, Rovaniemi
The year's first LappiCup competition was organized at Rovaniemi last weekend. The results have been added to the
Results page. Here's a short report of the competition from Tapio Alhonsuo (in Finnish):
"Tällä kertaahan kyseessä oli pelkkä boulderikisa, ja Jesse Tamski ja allekirjoittanut olivat pistäneet pystyyn parisenkymmentä boulderia, joissa riitti väännettävää koko lauantaille. Miehissä Risto Saarisen ja Osmo Aspin välillä ei saatu selvyyttä vielä superfinaalissakaan, joten voitto meni Ristolle karsintojen perusteella.
RVK:n edustaja Jussi Muittari väänsi ittensä kolmanneksi. Naisissa Teresa Harjula voitti Maija Soikkelin flässin tuomalla lisäpisteellä, joten kohtuu tiukkaa vääntöä oli sielläkin. Illanpäälle suurin osa porukasta lähti moottorikelkoilla parinkymmenen kilometrin päähän salaiseen B-finaalipaikkaan, jossa kilpailut jatkuivat sunnuntaille. Ensi vuodelle on luvassa lisää kattopinta-alaa köysifinaaliin!"[rh]
Asemaboulder 08 results
Enni Bertling and Anton Johansson collected the biggest heap of points in this year's Asemaboulder event. Congratulations!
Complete results at the Results page. Point sheet also available for those who like to re-calculate (in .doc format). [rh]
1. Bertling Enni
2. Laurell Kati
3. Ruokonen Minna
4. Laitinen Anna
5. Laitila Tanja
6. Shorikova Julia
1. Johansson Anton
2. Huhtikorpi Kuutti
3. Joensuu Matti
4. Fogelholm Markus
5. Lind Lasse
6. Kiesiläinen Sampo
SUNDAY CLIMBERS first 6
1. Niemi Jaakko
2. Dubrovin Nikita
3. Ruokonen Toni
4. Honkapää Valtteri
5. Gullsten Anthony
6. Saarinen Teemu
Tomi Nytorp and Mina Jokivirta spent an alternative Christmas doing some hard climbing at Southern Europe.
At Cresciano Tomi dispatched 'Frank's Wild Years' (8a+) within half hour and 'Great Shark Hunt' (8b) at Chironico with four or five tries. From Swiss boulders they moved to Southern France for rock climbing. At Cimaï Tomi did couple of limestone classics including 'Sortiléges' (8b) and Samizdat (8a). "Both routes are excellent, especially Sorti!" says Tomi. [rh]
Scandinavian Bouldering Championships
Stefan Pettersson and Markku Tawast had created a set of quality routes on freshly painted plywood walls of the good old "Grani", the venue for the 2007 Scandinavian Bouldering Championships past weekend.
Due to some unfortunate co-incidence the competition invitation had not found it's way to Denmark in time and participation from other countries was also quite poor. Most of the 31 competitors were therefore Finns but this did not put the damper. The level of climbing was probably as high as it could get. However, the organizers decided to drop off the semifinals from the two day's event.
In the female category the winner was Therese Johansen from Norway, second Anja Hodann from Sweden and third Roosa Huhtikorpi. The winner in male category was Nalle Hukkataival, although with very narrow margin to Tomi Nytorp. They both flashed 5 final routes. As they both had also climbed all the qualification routes, the order was determined according to the amount of attempts in the qualifications. Tomas Tobiassen from Norway was third with 2 top-outs in the finals. It was especially nice to see the ever motivated Martin Nugent to climb his way into the finals!
Detailed results available at the result page. Thanks to Mari Malinen for the results. [rh]
Youngsters at Fontainebleau
During their recent visit to Fontainebleau, Kuutti Huhtikorpi and Lasse Lind managed to dispatch some harder classics including 'Mongolito', 'Sale Gosse assis' (both 8a) and 'La Balance' (7c+). In addition, Kuutti managed to send 'Marilyn Monroe' (8a/8a+?) in Switzerland. Nice work!
Kuutti is also taking part in the coming Scandinavian Bouldering Championships at Kauniainen. Best luck to Kuutti and all other Finns! [rh]
Lappicup 07 results, Oulu
The Lappicup event at Oulu got nice participation as 30 male and 9 female competitors arrived at Oulu cave past Saturday. Tomi Nytorp and Anton Johansson had built 17 competition routes which were the same for both categories.
Top three in female category were Mina Jokivirta, Teresa Harjula and Kati Laurell. Sami Haapakoski was unbeatable in male category. Risto Saarinen was second and the third position was shared by Jarmo Annunen and Paavo Ikonen. Congratulations!
One of the rare climbing competitions during this year, a Finnish cup difficulty comp was arranged at Tampere past weekend. The results will be added to the results page in the near future and there should also be a video available in SportTube during coming weeks. Congratulations to the winners Roosa Huhtikorpi and Olli-Petteri Manni. Leena Marjamäki has written a report of the event (in Finnish).
"Miesten kisassa tasaisuutta riitti. Karsinnoissa Mikko Tiitola, Tapio Mustakoski ja Adrian Pollard putosivat samalta otteelta päätyen jaetulle viidennelle sijalle. Mikko Mäkelä eteni näitä kolmea pidemmälle reitillä, mutta ei epäonnekseen koskenut ohimennessään pisteotteisiin ennen putoamistaan. Ville Koskela toppasi reitin, mutta käytti vahingossa reitin ulkopuolista muotoa jalalle kahteen otteeseen, joten hänen pisteensä laskettiin puhtaan suorituksen mukaan. Finaaliin pääsi siis kuuden kisaajan sijasta kahdeksan.
Finaalissa Matti Joensuu ja Olli Manni rimpuilivat molemmat itsensä lähes toppiin, täsmälleen samalla tavalla otetta hipaisten, joten mestaruus piti ratkaista superfinaalissa. Reitin toppiote oli kattolevyn päädyssä, josta sitä oli vaikea nähdä. Superfinaalissa Olli Manni kävi jälleen roikkumassa katossa samassa muotopallossa ja kurotteli milloin milläkin raajalla toppiotetta kuitenkaan siihen pääsemättä. Hän saikin jalalla koskettamalla pisteiksiin top miinus. Onneksi superfinaalissa miesten välille saatiin eroa, koska Matti Joensuu putosi reilusti Ollia alempana.
Naisten sarjassa oli mukana yksi kilpailun ulkopuolinen osallistuja (alle 15-vuotias), mutta se ei näyttänyt menoa haittaavan. Tytöt jättivät taakseen monta toppahoususarjalaista miestä ja kiipesivätkin paljon kauniimmin. Naisten kisassa oli myös kaksi yli muiden, Janina Käyhkö ja Roosa Huhtikorpi taistelivat viimeiseen asti ykköspaikasta Janinan jäädessä vain yhden otteen päähän topista finaalissa Roosan topatessa reitin. Karsintareitin loppu oli kaikille sarjoille sama, pitkä viistodyno negatiivisella seinällä, ja reitin toppaaminen vaikuttikin olevan enemmän uskalluksesta kiinni. Roosa ja Janina saivat molemmat kosketuksen toppiotteesta karsinnoissa.
Toppahoususarjassa nuoruus näytti olevan valttia. Ensimmäisen sijan vienyt Jarkko Linkosuonio toppasi karsintareitin helpon tuntuisesti ja ylti finaalissakin reilusti muita pidemmälle. Myös kolmannen sijan saavuttanut Felix Damski oli kilpailun nuorimpia osallistujia.
Kisat menivät kaikin puolin oikein mukavasti, kiitokset kuuluvat ennen kaikkea järjestelyissä auttaneille talkoolaisille, kisoihin palkintoja lahjoittaneille sponsoreille, lämppäriboulderin tuoneelle Petri Laukamolle ja tietysti kaikille osallistujille. Erityismaininnan ansaitsee reitit taikonut Anton Johansson, joka onnistui tehtävässään erinomaisesti kisaseinän rajoituksista huolimatta. Kiitos myös SKIL:n Mari Maliselle kilpailujen järjestelyissä auttamisesta ja tuomaroinnista.
Näin järjestäjänä harmittaa, että en aiemmin pystynyt tiedottamaan miesten sarjaan osallistuville, että heidän ei tarvitse saapua paikalle samaan aikaan muiden kanssa. Olin toivonut, että eri sarjojen karsintoja olisi voinut aloittaa samanaikaisesti ajan säästämiseksi, mutta seinän pienuudesta johtuen oli parempi, että teemme yhden pidemmän reitin, jota sitten muokataan sarjojen välissä. Odottelua tuli siis heille turhankin paljon.
Toivotaan, että näemme tällä kaudella vielä monta Suomi-cupin osakilpailua. Jos joku harkitsee kisojen järjestämistä ja kaipaa vinkkejä valmistautumiseen, autan mielelläni parhaan kokemukseni mukaan."[rh]
Living the Dream
"This thursday I finally managed to climb a project in Åland known as the Sphinx. I’ve tried this line on my five trips to the island during over four years of time...". Read the whole story and see the photos at www.nallehukkataival.com
In short, the new route is called 'Living the Dream' and the grade suggestion is 8b+ making it the hardest boulder line in Finland... Once again, congratulations to Nalle! [rh]
Nose in a day
Lauri Hämäläinen and Sampsa Jyrkynen had a seemingly productive visit to Yosemite, climbing many of the valley classics. Last week they blasted the famous 'Nose' of El Capitan in just 20 hours! Surf to Patagonia.fi and Pitoni.fi for pics and stories from the entire trip.
It was of course no other than Nalle Hukkataival who finally managed to repeat Tomi Nytorp's 'Eskimo' in Espoo. Five years ago Slouppi wrote that Eskimo is "the hardest traverse ever seen in Finland. This line has around 37 moves starting with '72 markkaa' (7b+) crux move, linking a traverse around 20 moves long and finally topping out at 'Usual Suspect' (7c+). Tomi suggests grade 8a+ which is probably not over estimated..."
Sami's Last Statement
More of Sami's undertakings: despite the name, this is certainly not the last statement, but a name for another hard line by Sami Haapakoski.
This line situates at the backmost stones of Sundom main area (Vaasa), in the overhang of the large stone left from 'Hitchmo'. The route was opened last week and with Sami's bicep sequence the grade is around 8a. [rh]
Maisteri vs X-Men
Oulu's gift to Vaasa, Sami Haapakoski, dispatched today one of the hard projects in the area. This steep line situates at sector Mikroautorata and everyone who's been hanging around there certainly knows the thing. Name of the route is 'Maisteri vs X-Men' (...there must be a story behind this) and the grade is at 8a/8a+ range. Big congratulations! [rh]
Nordic Championships in Sogndal
This year the Nordic Championships were arranged past weekend at Sogndal, southern Norway. The podium was shared by the other Scandinavian countries as there was absolutely no Finnish participation. Everyone felt like being in bad shape after the outdoor season, or maybe there was other poor excuses?!?
The winner in male category was last year's nr one, Magnus Midtbo (NOR) and second Magnus Högström (SWE). Winner in female category came also from the Midtbo family as Hannah Midtbo (NOR) took gold before Maling Holmberg (SWE). Last year's winner Linn Karin Stendahl (NOR) did not participate because of a finger injury. Detailed results: www.klatring.no. [rh]
Early fall ascents
Some Southern-Finland testpieces have got more repeats on early fall. Joonas Sailaranta has climbed 'Buu-clubben' (8a/+) at Siuntio and 'Chuck Norris' (7c+/8a) at Tervakoski, Janakkala. 'Chuck Norris' was also repeated by Anssi Venho. Lasse Lind has recently repeated 'Vacuum' (8a) at Klöverberget. [rh]
Other hard bouldering ascents to mention are at least first repeat to 'Mahjongg' (8a) by Ila Tuunainen also from Jyväskylä. Henri Pöyry made the second repeat last weekend. This extremely beautyful arete was first climbed by Pasi Penttinen and it situates at Nunnalahti area, Juuka. [rh]
IFSC World Championships
Tomi Nytorp and Nalle Hukkataival took part in IFSC World Championships in Aviles, Northern Spain. They competed only in the bouldering discipline. Nalle climbed his way to semifinals and his end position was 19th. Tomi's position was 55th. The winner was a young Russian, Dmitry Sharafudtinov and in female category Anna Stöhr (AUT). Winners in the actual lead competition were Ramon Julian Puigblanque (ESP) and Angela Eiter (AUT). [rh]
Kustavi hardcore - Das Ding
Perttu Ollila, father of many South-West testpieces has shifted the level of difficulty at Kustavi area into new heights. His latest route, 'Das Ding', situates at Kuulivuori and by hearing Perttu's description, you could imagine that this line is a real man-eater (and would probably eat women too):
"On 7th September I sent my 'project of the summer' at Kuulivuori, Kustavi. Name of this steep route with mixed protection is 'Das Ding'. The line has a pre-tiring start with three bolts, but in my opinion the true essence of the route starts from where the bolts end and finger(tip) crack starts. I sent 'Das Ding' on my 10th lead try and by putting all the protection on the go. At the end of the project I had one black jammed finger, one dented alien, but also piece of mind for the coming winter. I like more of poetry than grades. Still, the number that fits best for 'Das Ding' could be 9." (PO) - Congratulations! [rh]
On 11th September Haukkakallio at Ruotsinpyhtää got it's new -hardest to date- route by Rami Haakana. The line situates on the slightly overhanging section of Muuri- sector. It goes up through a bare crack system and offers intensive climbing all the way by it's 13 meters height. The route is naturally protected and the gear was placed on the go. The grade suggestion is 8+. At the moment Haukkakallio offers 62 routes and 15 projects. [rh]
Northern boulder testpieces
Risto Saarinen has opened two hard boulder lines at Hiidenkirnut, Rovaniemi. 'Nambla' was climbed already on spring and 'Midi assis' three weeks back. These are harder than the earlier routes of Risto and the grades for both most probably at 8a range. Jani Lehtola has opened 'Always Broken' at Pyhäntä. Grade suggestion for this fingery and physical line is also 8a. Nice work! [rh]
Nalle at Arco Rockmasters
Sint Rock Bouldering contest was arranged also this year during the Arco Rock Master competition. Winner of the last year Nalle Hukkataival placed second after Gareth Parry from Great Britain. Third was young Italian Gabriele Moroni. Detailed story to come in the pages of Arco Rockmaster. Congratulations! [rh]
Joonas Sailaranta climbed well at the open Malmöboulder competition last weekend. He finished second after Henrik Sennelöv from Sweden. In the female category Eevi Jaakkola finished third after Jenny Förander (SWE) and Kina Nilsson (SWE). For photos and detailed results with positions of the other Finnish team members, surf to the pages of Malmöboulder. [rh]
Some sends on July-August
Henri Pöyry's ticklist of harder routes keeps getting longer. His past month's sends include at least 'Buu-clubben' (8a, probably 8a+) at Siuntio and 'Chuck Norris' (8a) at Tervakoski. Couple of weeks back Valtteri Rintamäki climbed 'Vacuum' (8a) at Klöverberget and on mid July Rami Haakana repeated 'Kultakanta' (8a/+) at Haukkavuori. This great route is now accompanied by another hard line as the diagonal groove left from 'Kultakanta' was climbed by Martin on July. The new route 'Kultakuume' shares the anchor of 'Kultakanta'. Grade is around 7c+. [rh]
Texas Ranger hits Tervakoski
Tomi Nytorp has climbed the last and hardest project of Tervakoski cliff at Janakkala. He figured out the sequences a week ago and did the first ascent today after memorizing moves. As the other hard line 'Chuck Norris' on the right, this line also overhangs slightly but gets much more sustained at the upper part. The new route is called 'Texas Ranger' and Tomi's suggestion for the grade is around 8a+..8b. Tomi also climbed the next line to the left 'Escape Artist' (7b+) onsight. [rh]
Roosa did 'Le privilège du serpent'
Roosa and Kuutti Huhtikorpi did some hard climbing during their one month trip to Céüse, France. One of Roosa's highlights was a redpoint to classic 'Le privilège du serpent' (7c+) at sector Cascade. This was probably the first Finnish female ascent of this grade outside Finland. Kuutti had some real bad luck as he accidentally tore his finger on a tunafish can while experimenting French cuisine. He had to rest big part of the trip with a stitched finger, but before this managed to onsight two other classics: 'Mirage' (7c+) at Cascade and 'Tout n'est pas si facile' (7c+) at sector Biographie. [rh]
The Nose by Saku and Adrian
Late news from the end of June. Saku Korosuo and Adrian Pollard climbed 31 pitch Yosemite classic, The Nose (5.9 C2), between 24th and 28th June. The line was freed by Lynn Hill 1993 (free grade 5.13c) and has seen only one free ascent since that by Tommy Caldwell. Earlier Finnish ascents: Martin Nugent - Henrik Suihkonen 1996 and Lasse Nuutinen - Joonas Sailaranta 2006. Congratulations to Saku and Adrian. For more info surf to www.pitoni.fi and www.openworld.fi. [rh]
More midsummer ascents
Henri Pöyry has been repeating some hard routes. Earlier June he made probably the first repeat to 'Nummisuutari' (8a) at Nummi cliff. The line got first ascent by Tomi Nytorp on August 2006. Last Saturday Heko climbed intensive 'Tesis' at Klöverberget. This line has at least two possible crux sequences depending on height of the climber. Heko did the 'long man' 8a+ version. Martin Nugent's original version is graded 8b. On Tuesday Rami Haakana made the first repeat to 'Chuck Norris' (8a) at Tervakoski. See the news on 26.6. about the first ascent by Teemu Ojala. [rh]
Nalle 2nd in Nissan Outdoor Games
Nissan Outdoor Games were organised in Interlaken (Switzerland) during the last weekend. Nalle Hukkataival took part in the bouldering contest and placed 2nd after Gareth Parry. Nalle topped two of the final problems as Gareth managed three. The other three finalists (Remo Sommer, Nicolas Badia, Kevin Hemund) topped only one problem each. Full results here (excel-file). Congratulations to Nalle! [rh]
Tarantella by Pasi
Last Sunday Pasi Penttinen climbed the longstanding project at Notko cliff near Joensuu. The new route is called 'Tarantella' and the grade is around 8a. The line has been a project since 2001. Congratulations!
Source: Karelian Kiipeilijät[rh]
Teemu kicked the shit out of Chuck Norris
Teemu Ojala has just climbed one of his nice projects. 'Chuck Norris' was bolted on fall 2005 and situates at Tervakoski area, Janakkala. The route starts with a steep 45 degree boulder and continues to a pumpy and technical slightly overhanging face. Overall length is about 15 meters and the grade is at 8a range. Way to go! [rh]
Hard ticks by Pasi
Pasi Penttinen from Joensuu made last Wednesday probably the first repeat to 'Kultakanta' (8a/+) at Haukkavuori, Eastern Finland. This line was established 2006 by Martin Nugent. Few weeks earlier Pasi also repeated 'Wild Side' (8a) at the same cliff. 'Wild Side' was established by Jani Lunnas 2005 and got first repeat week after by Rami Haakana. [rh]
Nalle 3rd in Grindelwald
Nalle Hukkataival did well at the bouldering world cup competition in Grindelwald (Switzerland) past weekend. After qualification round his position was 13th but good climbing in the semifinals lifted him up to 2nd position. In the finals the winner was Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) and second Akito Matsushima (JPN). Nalle's gap to second position was narrow - only one try to bonus hold in the finals. For detailed results, surf to the pages of IFSC. [rh]
New routes at Luhti
Tomi Nytorp and Mina Jokivirta have added three new bolted routes to Haukkastenkallio, also known as Luhti cliff at Askola. The first of these is on the right end, next to the rightmost line 'Verhomestari'. This line had couple of bolts for several years, but is now fully equipped and known as 'Ristiriipunta' (7b). Next route to left is called 'Manteli' (6c) and was established by Mina. Third new route situates on the left end of the cliff and is called 'Iltatyttö' (7c+). The more exact location is on the steep face, just left from the old project.
Btw. couple of weeks back Mina showed her good shape at Klöverberget by climbing 'Vitamin M' (7c). [rh]
'Jedi Mindtricks' by Sami
On Friday, 1st June did Sami Haapakoski first repetition of the latest Niemisel testpiece 'Jedi Mindtricks'. The line has been an open project for years until Martin Franssons first ascent about week back. Martin suggests grade 8b+. Sami however was 'brave and humble' and suggests 8b for the route. Sami was very near to climb this project two years back. It's remarkable that Sami has climbed outside with a rope only three times in a year.
Tomi Nytorp's 'Arthur Dent' (7c+/8a) at Havukallio was repeated probably by the first time a couple of weeks ago by Jere Ylönen. The bolted line was a project for a very long time until Tomi dispatched the line about 3 years ago. Congrats to Jere and thanks to Markku Vahter for the news!
Normipäivä for Nalle
Nalle Hukkataival has been caught up in his favourite hobby - tuning desperate projects to a new steel-hard boulder lines. His latest creation situates in Djupviken (Ahvenanmaa, Åland) and used to be a project for the last 12 years. This futuristic line overhangs more than 45 degrees and has decent amount of moves. The name of the line is 'Normipäivä' (A norm day) and the grade is around 8b. Other ascent to mention, Nalle did also second repeat of Tomi Nytorp's 'Mongooli' (8a) at Kasviken.
Bouldering world cup competition was held in Erlangen (Germany) past weekend. Nalle Hukkataival did again nice nice job in the hard company! After the qualification round his position was 3rd which turned 1st after the semifinals. In the finals he placed 4th after Mykhaylo Shalagin (UKR), Kilian Fischhuber (AUT) and Jonas Baumann (GER). Total amount of climbers was 52. [rh]
Nalle 2nd in Bouldering EC
Nalle Hukkataival took silver in the Bouldering European Championships at Birmingham today! The winner was young Austrian David Lama with a narrow margin. Lama needed 8 tries for topping 4 final routes whereas Nalle needed 10. Thomas Mrázek (Cze) was third with 2 top outs. Tomi Nytorp placed 38th. See full results. Congratulations to Nalle! [rh]
Marko on Big Dragon
Yesterday Jyväskylä's definitive bouldering fanatic, Marko Kauko, made a repeat of Dave Graham's 'Big Dragon' in Fontainlebleau. Kippis Marko!
(He's the 3rd Finn to score this big numbers in The Forest.)
Skiing holiday á la Nalle
When you just want to climb a lot and not to work on any specific problems, this is what usually happens to all of us...not. Here is Nalle's ticklist from the last couple of weeks. Nice start for the season, I'd say!!!
Jack’s wild years 8a+, Extreme ironing 8a+, La pelle 8a, La proue 8b,
The great shark hunt 8b, Serre moi fort! 8a/+, Teamwork 8a (flash), Buggalagga 8b,
Miss Swiss 8a+, Le vent nous porterá 8a, Komilator 8a (2nd try), Schule des lebens 8b (15 min), No mystery 8a+ ("flash", 1st move is the same as in "Schule des lebens"), The arete with the pocket 8a
Neverland 8a, Partage 8a+, Les beaux quartiers 8a, Vitae beata 8a, Fata morgana 8a, La sale gosse assis 8a
Results from Graniboulder 2007
Graniboulder 2007 results from the past weekend have been added to the results page. Qualification consisted of 49 routes. After such a heavy effort none of the male finalists were able to top out any routes in the finals. The final positions were determined by the amount of tries needed for bonus hold on the first finals route. The winner was Anssi Venho with two tries. Tero Järvinen and Jarkko Linkosuonio were 2nd and 3rd and they both needed 3 tries.
In female category the winner was Mina Jokivirta who flashed 5 and took bonus hold from the 6th finals route. Last year's winner Roosa Huhtikorpi was second and Kati Laurell third. Congratulations to finalists!
Asemaboulder 2006 results have been added to the results page. The superior winner in Hardmen was Nalle Hukkataival. This year's Hadrwoman was Roosa Huhtikorpi and in Toppahousut (A-category) winner was Jarkko Linkosuonio. Congratulations! More pics to come. See also the nice gallery by Jarmo Annunen and the corresponding thread in the Forum. [rh]
Junior NC at Sogndal, Norway
Youngsters from scandinavian countries were competing for the Nordic Championships at Sogndal, Norway. The Finnish team was also present. Results from youngest to oldes category: Youth B male: Felix Damski 3rd, Henri Haime 6th, Anthony Gullsten 7th and Tuukka Kaipainen 9th. Winner was Emil Jespersen from Denmark. Youth A female: Roosa Huhtikorpi 2nd. Winner Hannah Midtbo (NOR). Youth A male: Jarkko Linkosuonio 5th. Winner Kristoffer Thorbjörsson (NOR). Junior male: Markus Fogelholm 5th. Winner Magnus Midtbo (NOR). No Finnish participants in Youth B and Junior female categories. Detailed results at the pages of Norges Klatreforbund. Congrats to all! The fabulous wall at Sognhallen was built by Tjelmeland Friksjon. [rh]
Report from NC 2006
Nordic Championships in difficulty were arranged at Joensuu past weekend. The new wall of Joensuu Areena offered perfect playfield for 20 male and 7 female climbers from all the Nordic countries. Routesetter Aljosa Grom had done excellent job with the competition routes. All the way steep and high profile made it possible to design sustained and versatile routes that made the lactic acid insidiously build up into the climbers forearms.
Qualification and semifinal rounds were competed on Saturday. In male category Tomi Nytorp was the only Finn among the six who topped the qualification route. On the semifinals, most of the Finnish climbers, including Tomi, got stuck on the big form at the upper overhang and fell from it within two points span. A kneebar would have been the right solution btw. Only Olli-Petteri Manni made past it and to the finals.
OPM showed fine climbing also at the Sunday's finals where he climbed nicely to the fourth position. The winner was the last year's dominating champion Magnus Midtbo (NOR), second Magnus Högström (SWE) and third Sindre Saether (NOR). No-one topped the finals route.
Norwegian climbers dominated also in the female category. Linn-Karin Stendal and Hannah Midtbo were the only climbers to top out both qualification and semifinals routes. Linn-Karin was souvereing in the finals and barely missed the top hold. Hannah Midtbo was second and Stine Ostergaard from Denmark third. Despite of nice efforts, Finnish climbers had to share the last three positions.
The competition showed that the wall at Joensuu Areena is undoubtedly the best wall in Finland for events like this. Thanks to the arrangement team for great job and congratulations to the winners. Photos to come. [rh]
Nalle Hukkataival continues to be in "decent" shape as he placed third after Lamiche (1st) and Dulac (2nd) in Navalosa near Madrid during the Petzl Roc Trip. The competition itself was a big Kinkkuboulder-like outdoor bouldering event with the Petzl pros and other strong people. According to Nalle the climbing was great and the place was great. Third place is good, but, we need more... just kidding. Way to go!
Another repeat to 'El Toro'
'El Toro' (8a+) at Klöverberget got yesterday another repeat by Martin Nugent. At the moment the cliff is dry except routes under the big roof. [rh]
One of the Kasviken testpieces, 'Mongooli' (8a/8a+), got repeated by Sami Haapakoski about a week ago. The Oulu climbers find out a new easier hook sequence after the hardest second move. Their idea about the grade is therefore more like 8a than 8a+. This boulder was established by Tomi Nytorp last spring (see the news 28th May).
Also other Ahvenanmaa/Åland classics like 'Supermartikainen' got new repeats by Jani Lehtola and Sami. [rh]
Nalle won at Arco!
Yes. Nalle was the only climber to top out all the four problems at Sint Roc bouldering competition at Arco! Check out the detailed results: www.digitalrock.de/2006/06_arco/. Big congratulations! [rh]
Martin's August crop
Martin Nugent has also been productive with hard lines during August. Past weekend he managed to climb a longstanding project at Haukkamäki, Salo area. Route is called 'Baba Baba Gur Gur' and it situates on an overhang at the cliff's left end. Martin suggests grade 8a+. Worth mentioning are also 'Kultakanta' (8a) at Eastern-Finland and 'Gyllene Tider' (7c+) at Siuntio area. Nice! [rh]
Youth World Champs at Imst
Some results from the difficulty Youth World Championships at Imst, Austria.
Roosa Huhtikorpi was 42nd of 63 in Youth A series. Winner in this category was Charlotte Durif (FRA). Heini Merikallio was 39th of 47 in Juniors. Winner was Katharina Saurwein (AUT). In male Juniors, Kuutti Huhtikorpi climbed to 36th position of 57 competitors in total. Nr 1 in this category was Sean McColl (CAN). [rh]
What Goes Up...
...must definitely come down. But this is also the name of the latest route in Klöverberget. And not just any route. Yesterday Nalle Hukkataival managed to climb the steep project right from 'Vacuum'.
Here's Nalles own description: "Day before yesterday I checked the moves and climbed the line day after. The route is relatively short with 3 moves crux: a hard lock off from a bad pinch to a one finger crimp, and couple of hard moves after that. For not making things too easy, the one finger hold was a bit wet during the ascent. It's hard to say about the grade but it must be something like 8b. Maybe. Outrageously nice line anyway! And the name is 'What goes up...'" [rh]
Liljendal project climbed by Nalle
Nalle Hukkataival is getting back to form after military service. Last Thursday he added a hard new boulder route to the new sector of Liljendal. The line is called 'Ohi On' and the grade is around 8a/8a+. In the topo this is the line number 12.
According to Nalle the new line has a sit-start, about 4 long moves with the last one being crux: a dyno to the top from 5 mm deep crimp on an overhanging end section. The actual crux is to hold the hard pendulum. The rock quality is quite rough and it's maybe too easy to get fingers torn from the top hold.
At the first weekend of September Nalle will head to Italy as he got invited to the Arco Rock Master competition. Last year he was third in this acknowledged event so let's wish successfull preparation to Nalle! [rh]
Hard lines by OPM
South-West Finland has got couple of hard new lines by Olli-Petteri Manni.
At Angelniemi, Olli has climbed a new vertical and super technical line 'Onni' (8a). His first Angelniemi test-piece 'Baletti' (also 8a) was established 2005. Another nice addition 'Selibaatti' (8a) situates at Härmälänrotko, Naantali. This line runs through the steeper outer side of the 'gorge'. Both new routes are waiting for the first repeats.
Making of new routes is hard work and everyone (except maybe Johan Luhr) needs rest days. Olli has also put his rest days to good use and climbed for example 'Sheriffi' (8a) at Nummi. [rh]
More Nummi action by Tomi and Mina
Today Tomi Nytorp and Mina Jokivirta had a good day in Nummi cliff. For a start Mina climbed 'Alibi' (7c) making probably third female ascent to this classic. After that Tomi did quick job with another Nummi project left from his recent testpiece 'Syncro' (8c). This line was bolted few years back and starts with 'Shake My Tree' but takes right from the mid height. The variation got name 'Nummisuutari'. Grade is probably around 8a. [rh]
First Finnish 8c by Tomi Nytorp!
Tomi Nytorp made today real Finnish climbing history by opening the first route graded 8c in Finland! Here's Tomi's own description of the ascent:
"I've been visiting Nummi cliff several times (during 4 days to be exact) to work the line between 'Estrella' and 'Shake My Tree'. Today I finally found myself clipping the anchor more pumped than ever. I named the route 'Syncro'. The difficulty must be around 8c but as you know, it's hard to give an exact grade. Anyway this is clearly the hardest route I've ever climbed. Some facts about the line: Around 40 moves, one poor rest 10 moves before anchor. Barely no chalking during the first 30 moves. Six clips with three hard ones. A real stamina test and extraordinary nice line!"
Big congratulations to Tomi! This was only a matter of time... [rh]
Decibel by Jani
Last friday Jani Lehtola from Oulu did a repeat to 'Decibel' (8a) at Niemisel, Sweden. The cliff is in very good condition at the moment. [rh]
New cliff at Ruotsinpyhtää
Släbi ry continues development of climbing cliffs at Eastern-Uusimaa. Topo of Huuhkajavuori was published on last September and now it is time for the first sector of Haukkakallio. You'll find the topo from the pages of Släbi.
This first sector called 'Kultajuova' situates at the Northern end of Haukkakallio and offers 8 routes with grades between 5+ and 7. The other sectors are under development. No need to mention that it's important to behave with respect to nature. Do not leave any litter behind you.
The cliff situates at Ruotsinpyhtää and you will also find detailed driving instructions from the pages of Släbi. [rh]
Update: The line nr 1 is called 'Infart' (5c).
Another repeat to 'I Feel Good'
Last friday Jari Pöllänen did another Finnish repeat to the Niemisel classic 'I Feel Good' (8a+). At the moment, the Niemisel cliff near Luleå at Sweden is in good condition. Routes are dry and the amount of mosquitoes tolerable. This time of year the most convenient time to climb is at the midnight sun. [rh]
Bouldering world cup at Hall, Austria
Tomi Nytorp took part in Bouldering world cup at Hall, Austria last weekend. Tomi's final position was 36th of 59 competitors in total. Podium was shared by David Lama (AUT), Jérôme Meyer (FRA) and Kilian Fischhuber (AUT). [rh]
Rovaniemi's hardest by Jani
Last weekend two of the hardest boulder routes at Rovaniemi area, 'Linnuntie' (7c+/8a) and 'Pimp My Ride extension' (7c+) got repeated by Jani Lehtola. These lines have been established by local powerplant Risto Saarinen and been waiting the first repeats for some time. During this season Jani has also added fingery lines up to 7c+ at his home district Oulu. [rh]
Nalle ropes up
As the temperatures are going up many of the boulderers switch to training for the real thing and tie up. They say that sport and trad climbing are very good training for bouldering. Last Friday Nalle Hukkataival managed to (sport)climb 'Vacuum' (8a) at Klöverberget. A day earlier he got the 2nd ascent of Tomi Nytorp's recent boulderproblem 'Toukotyö' (7c+) at Sipoo. Nice to hear from Nalle who is serving probably his final weeks of military service!
Senorita repeated by Sami
An old Vaasa testpiece 'Senorita' (8a) got repeated on last Saturday by Sami Haapakoski. This line situates at sector Pet Cemetary and was established by Anton Johansson on fall 2001. Good work! [rh]
Hard repeats by Kuutti
Kuutti Huhtikorpi has also had a good start for his outdoor season. Earlier May he dispatched two 8a's in Southern Finland including 'Vacuum' at Klöverberget and another un-named line at the area. Last thursday it was time for 'Adlon' (8a) at Nummi.
What comes to bouldering, at Jyväskylä area Kuutti repeated 'Forte Risoluto' (7c+) and 'Booty' (7c). At Liljendal he did quick job with lines such as 'Underking' (7b+) and 'Basically Done' (7c). [rh]
Tomi's boulderful May
As the weather on May has offered some good friction, Tomi Nytorp has been productive on the cliffs and stones of South-West Finland. He has put up quite an impressive bunch of new hard routes!
'Voima' 7c+, Mynämäki
'5.14' 8a+, Mynämäki
'Bob Marley' 8a+, Pirunpesä
'Sans les mains' 8a, Hirvensalo
'?' 7c+, Kärsämäki (lower start to an old route, name unknown)
'Hammaspeikko' 8a, Geta
(left from 'Hammas', s.s. under the roof)
'Mongooli' 8a/+, Kasviken
(the roof behind 'Dodo' boulder)
'Ålandsbanken' 8a+/b, Geta
(s.s. project right from 'Hihipingviini')
At Sipoo Tomi has repeated 'Hattori Hanzo' (8a) and added a new line 'Toukotyö' (7c+) which shares same end with 'Hanzo' but has direct (sit) start. More about Turku sessions in the next Kiipeilylehti. [rh]
Bouldering world cup at Rovereto
Nalle Hukkataival took part in Bouldering world cup competition at Rovereto, Italy past weekend. Nalle's final position was 47th of the 58 competitors in total. Winner was Gérome Pouvreau (FRA), second Jérome Meyer (FRA) and third Thomás Mrázek (CZE). Detailed result at the pages of Planet Mountain.
2006 has not been very successful competition year to Nalle as his on-going military service has prevented proper training. Few more months to go and the situation should ease up! [rh]
Second ascent to Euphoria
Today Tomi Nytorp managed to do long waited second ascent to 'Euphoria' at Angelniemi! 'Euphoria' is probably the first 8a graded boulder in Finland and was established way back at nineties (-99) by visionary route setter Markku Tawast. The line is considered to be very height dependent but once again Tomi showed that long moves can be compensated with power, technique and attitude. The grade felt hardish 8a for him. [rh]
Anabólica on-sight by Tomi
Tomi Nytorp and Mina Jokivirta spent couple of weeks on a climbing trip to Spain. They visited spots such as Siurana, Rodellar, Riglos and Montserrat. Tomi was in a good shape as usual, and managed to do some hard on-sights at Siurana! These include 'Anabólica' (8a), one of the steep classics at sector Campi Qui Pugui, and 'La Crema' (also 8a) near sector L'Olla. [rh]
Results from Finnish Championships
Finnish Championships in difficulty were competed at Joensuu Areena today. Despite the new wall, participation was not huge: only 4 competitors in male and 5 in female category. The own boy of Joensuu, Pasi Penttinen took the championship in the male category. Second was Kuutti Huhtikorpi followed by Henrik Suihkonen and Henri Pesonen. The order in female category was Roosa Huhtikorpi, Eerika Pawli, Mina Jokivirta, Ansa Hirvonen and Pia Sjöroos. Congrats to Pasi and Roosa!
Last Saturday Tapio Alhonsuo managed to climb 'Suentassu' (M9+) at Sotkamo. This mixed line was first climbed by Antti Mankinen about two years back. Tapio thinks that the route must be one of the finest of a kind in Finland. Especially nice feature is the upper part after the most overhanging section. According to Tapio, this is where the hard climbing really starts and he was very psyched to do the route after five falls from the upper icicle last weekend. Good work! [rh]
Results from Bouldering Masters 2006
Traditional Bouldering Masters event gathered about 80 climbers to the walls of Kiipeilykeskus yesterday. 4 hours and 55 routes guaranteed a good training day for every participant. As last year, the biggest pile of points was collected by Kuutti Huhtikorpi, who climbed all but two routes. Runner-up was Markku Makkonen, even if he had to give up bit too early after ripping his finger to a screw tip. Regular top contender Toni Ruokonen was third. Winner in female category was Eevi Jaakkola with really strong performance. Margin to the last year winner Roosa Huhtikorpi was however only 3 points. Heini Merikallio was third.
Detailed results have been added to the results page. Many thanks to the organizing team and route setters for the most joyful event! [rh]
Nico ticks 'Jernmangel'
Most of us would not be able to give personal best if there's over 250 meters of intensive ice climbing done yesterday. This does not apply to Nico Backström, who after Vettisfossen cascade (see the previous news) did a quick ascent to 'Jernmangel' (M10+). The line is among the very hardest in Norway and was repeated by Antti Mankinen about a month back. Whoa! [rh]
Antti and Nico on high ice
On Wednesday Antti Mankinen and Nico Backström climbed 'Vettisfossen', the highest cascade in Norway and Scandinavia with mind puzzling height of 275 meters. The line was first time climbed by Henry Barber and Rob Taylor at 1978 with Nico's and Antti's ascent being the seventh ever. Sixth ascent was made last Saturday by a Norvegian team (see Steepstone) and the route has been climbed twice this year.
Antti's description of the ascent: "The cascade was the most difficult and dangerous I've ever climbed with Nico. Climbing was technical with of passings of ice roofs and moving from iciles to another. All this with quite bad protection. In addition there was a heavy water flow inside the pillar which could time to time be seen through the relatively thin ice. Falling and booming ice junks inside the pillar brought some extra exitement." Nice!!
Pictures about 'Vettisfossen' can be found from the pages of Isklatring.no. Choose 'Vettisfossen' and click picture to move to the next pictures. [rh]
Results from NC Bouldering
Nordic Championships in bouldering were competed at Stockholm this weekend. The winner was Swedish Peter Bosma followed by Nalle Hukkataival and Adam Rosenbaum (Swe). Other Finnish finalists were Kuutti Huhtikorpi and Markku Makkonen. First three in female category were Johanna Tiensuu-Stålnacke, Kerstin Johansson and Malin Perk, all from Sweden. Eevi Jaakkola was the only Finn in the finals. More details about the placings when available.
Update 20.3. Other Finnish placings, male category: Markku Makkonen 9th, Kuutti Huhtikorpi 11th, Sampo Kiesiläinen 16th, Anssi Venho 17th and Matti Joensuu 18th. 32 competitors in total. Female category: Eevi Jaakkola 5th, Eija Joensuu 16th. 17 competitors in total. Eija injured her elbow on the third qualification route and was unable to continue. We wish quick recovery to Eija! [rh]
Finnish ascents at Hemsedal
We've lately heard about some strong performance by Antti Mankinen at the finest ice and mixed spots of Norway. During his last weekend visit to Hemsedal, Antti was accompanied by Nico Backström and Marko Saukko who also seems to be in a good shape! Both guys did 'Ca Bitch a Mort', an M9 route established by French Stebhane Huson (2004). Style was bareback i.e. without heelhooks.
Andy describes this route as follows: "You start with an easy 6m ice section from where you move to rock. After 7 meters of severely overhanging rock section you move in to an ice curtain and continue up. Upper part is basic ice climbing. Total length is 25+ meters. The line is one of the best mixed routes I've ever climbed. Three stars." [rh]
Andy repeats 'Jernmangel'
Antti 'Andy' Mankinen has again hit his ice axes into hard stuff. This time he made the first repetition to a line called 'Jernmangel' ('Raudanpuutos' in Finnish) at Golsjuvet near Hemsedal. The first ascensionist Kristen Reagan has not given an accurate grade but general opinion suggests something around M10+. The route can thereby be considered as the hardest mixed line in Norway.
Andy repeated the route on Saturday 25th and he describes it as follows: "The line is about 25 meters long. It and starts with a steep rock section with small and technical holds. Next you move into a hanging icicle and climb along it up into thicker ice. The grade must be quite hard as gentlemen Will Gadd (Can) and Hari Berger (Aut) has been trying the route".
It's also remarkable that the route was climbed 'bareback' i.e. without the heelhooks in the boots. Congrats to Andy!!! [rh]
Kuutti's Thailand ticklist
Some late news from the early January.
Kuutti and Roosa Huhtikopri spent their winter vacation at Thailand and did some remarkable ascents at Railay. Including the on-sight to 'Gaeng som Plaa' 7c+, Kuutti managed to climb 'Just Call Me Helmet' 8a, 'Elephant' 8a, 'Art & Sport' 8a(+), 'Cream of Tom Yam Kai' 8a(+), 'Tantrum' 8a+ and 'Jai Dum' 8b. All these 2nd go exept 'Just Call Me Helmet' 3rd go. Roosa did 'Apri Fool's' 7b on-sight.
Kuutti says that it's a bit hard for him to comment the grading between Thailand and Finland as he has tried only few hard routes. However, he feels that 'Vacuum' in Klöverberget felt harder than some of the 8a(+) routes in Thailand.
"Qualification routes were at good level this year - no-one climbed all of them but everyone managed to climb something. Amount of female competitors was also record breaking 8.
All eight qualification routes were divided into zones, so there was an easier and harder version. Intermediate points were also available from the marked holds. This system proved to be good for this kind of a small cave. Qualification routes were built by Tapio Alhonsuo and three hour climbing time seemed to be just fine. Routes were tough enough so that there wasn't too much rush on the wall at the end. Paavo Ikonen fought his way to the finals by achieving equal score with Jani Lehtola at the very end of the qualification. In both categories (male & female) seven climbers instead of six got into the finals due to equal scores.
Final was climbed in red-point (after work) style. Climbers had 10 minutes time to test the route and finalists were allowed to see each other practicing. Winner of the qualification got some benefit as the order was reversed. During the actual competition, the climbers were of course waiting their turn on isolation.
As last year, routes in the finals were built by Sampo Kiesiläinen. Both routes ran all the way through the final roof and this roof section was the same for male and female categories. A special rule was applied at the roof: when both hands were on the roof, the climber was allowed to use holds from both routes for feet. Joonas Sailaranta made a mistake here as he used a foothold from the female route when he had only one hand on the roof. As he clearly got some advantage of this, the jury was forced to interrupt his performance into that point. It seemed that Joonas might have had power to continue maybe to the top. This performance was however enough for the second position. All other men fell from different heights. In female category, Roosa and Eevi both climbed half way the final roof. Roosa won the competition with her better perfomance in the qualification and took the LappiCup trophy third time in a row. Girls from south do have some lead compared to the northern girls who had a tough competition between each other all the way during the event. Same score after the qualification and on the finals they fell from the same holds with plus or minus differences.
Prizes were arranged by the main sponsor TOP30. Medalists got trophies made of hold resin, a shirt and a back-bag. Three fingerboards were disposed of by lottery among those who did not make it to the finals. They do need some more practice anyway:-) Couple of shirts and hold brushes were also given away by lottery."
"The B-finals" consisted of some sauna, playing and watching climbing video. More of this at the pages of "Rollon Kiikku ja Juoma".
Free translation from the original text of Aki Hämäläinen. Results here. [rh]
Long time has passed, since the last bouldering competition took place in the capital area. Maybe this was one reason for the nice participation in the Graniboulder 2006 contest last weekend. The event was the first Finnish Cup competition this winter and around 90 competitors all over the country had arrived to the old training cave of Kauniainen. The place has seen a total renaissance and is one of the best training locations in the capital area today.
The qualification round offered some 45 routes on new plywood profiles including couple of concrete classics from the old days of Grani. The routes were built by the local climbing club with some help of Tomi Nytorp's and Anton Johansson's tiny hands. Four hours qualification time was absolutely necessary and maybe some impudence was needed to keep up the pace as many routes were totally congested.
The qualification brought up familiar names to the top of the result list. The finals were carried out according to the normal routine, i.e. 6 routes with controlled climbing and resting times. Remarkably many of the final routes had a dynamic last move. In the female category the winner was - who else than Roosa Huhtikorpi followed by Eija Joensuu and Eevi Jaakkola. With no surprise either, Sampo Kiesiläinen was the winner in the male category followed by Kuutti Huhtikorpi and Olli-Pekka Manni. Congratulations to the finalists. The detailed results have been added to the results page.
When Klondyke Wall had to give up their excellent climbing gym in Kerava last year, the popular Kinkkuboulder tradition was also ended. This event has been hard to substitute and it was therefore nice to see that there is now at least one good location where these kind of mass events can be arranged. The arrangements, atmosphere and the 'whole package' were excellent, so let's hope that the tradition of Graniboulder will continue also next year! [rh]
Our reinforcements in Norway, Ansku Sihvonen and Antti Mankinen visited recently at Rjukan. About a week ago, Antti managed to repeat a steep Scott Muir testpiece, 'Fission' (M10, or rather D10) on a third go. The route was established 2003 and it's partly bolted. The upper part can be protected naturally. Nice job! [rh]
New climbing wall at Joensuu
Joensuu has got a huge new climbing wall during November. The wall situates at the new Areena hall at the western side of Joensuu center.
What makes this wall so special are the strategic dimensions. 19 meters height makes it the highest in Finland, but maybe even more remarkable is the steepness. The main two profiles overhang all the way from ground to up so there is absolutely no vertical rest positions but pure pump until the burning end. Sounds like the best place to practise the noble art of roped endurance training in our country. Actually, with this combination of height and steepness one should get a good forearm pump by only taking a glance to the wall..
As the construction seems ideal also for competition use, there are initial plans for arranging Finnish Championships on spring and Scandinavian Championships on fall -06 in on-sight climbing. The wall should be open for climbers with proven belaying skills latest at the beginning of 2006. More information available at the pages of Karelian Kiipeilijät and Kaski. [rh]
Results from Youth NC at Helsinki
Junior Nordic Championships in difficulty were competed last weekend at Kiipeilykeskus, Helsinki. According to the arrangement team the event was a success. This is easy to believe as the participation was huge, 82 climbers!
All Scandinavian countries were present except Iceland. Swedes had come with a big 21 members team with climbers mainly from Stockholm area. Participation from other countries: Norway :6, Denmark: 5, Latvia: 3 and Finland: 47 competitors.
In present system there are 6 different age categories for 18 years and younger climbers. The 92- and younger climb on top-rope (categories 1, 2 and 3). Older climbers i.e. 87-91 born compete with normal lead style (A, B and Juniors).
Best Finnish placing was the gold medal in female A category (88-89) by Roosa Huhtikorpi. Congratulations! Other podium placings are presented on the table below. Thanks to Joonas Sailaranta for the results. More detailed results will be added to the results page in the near future. Until that, surf to the pages of Swedish Climbing Association.
Cat 3 (96- )
1. Lieke Kia FIN
2. Kainulainen Sanna FIN
3. Haime Katariina FIN
Cat 2 (94-95 )
1. Høilund Sophie DEN
2. Fager Iines FIN
3. Valkama Siiri FIN
Cat 1 (92-93 )
1. Söderlund Mathilda SWE
-. Kalnina Elza LAT
2. Benedictsson Caroline SWE
3. Larsson Johanna SWE
Youth B (90-91)
1. Mitdbø Hannah NOR
2. Johanssen Therese NOR
3. Horak Cecilia SWE
Youth A (88-89)
1. Huhtikorpi Roosa FIN
2. Hammeraas Sunniva NOR
3. Tull Emma SWE
1. Hedborg Camilla SWE
2. Jaakkola Eevi FIN
3. Hakala Saija FIN
Cat 3 (96- )
1. Laaksonen Juuso FIN
2. Ainoa Eppu FIN
3. Hakala Elias FIN
Cat 2 (94-95 )
1. Schwerin Rasmus SWE
2. Honkasalo Petja FIN
2. Jussila Lauri FIN
2. Paasovaara Ville FIN
Cat 1 (92-93 )
-. Rugens Rolands LAT
1. Wiksell Viktor SWE
2. Kaisalmi Anssi FIN
3. Haime Henri FIN
Youth B (90-91)
1. Olsen Eirik B. NOR
2. Grandelius Erik SWE
3. Thomsen Nikolaj Finnäs DEN
Youth A (88-89)
1. Mitdbø Magnus NOR
2. Thorbjornsen Kristoffer K. NOR
3. Lundberg Tobias SWE
1. Råström Oscar SWE
2. Päivänsäde Ossi FIN
3. Fogelholm Markus FIN
The winner in boys A category was Magnus Mitdbø (16), who has been a real rising star during the past year. We can expect to hear more from this young Norvegian who is the current holder of the world championship title in the same age group. He has gathered competition experience also in 'grown ups' as he currently holds also adults NC title and sensationally placed sixth in the UIAA World Cup cup(Valence FRA) couple of weeks back. His achievements in outdoors are impressive, i.e. 'La Cadre' (8c) in Céüse and several 8a on-sights. [rh]
New topos have been published from the seemingly unexhaustible cliff reserves of South-West Finland! From the pages of 'Kalliokiipeilyä Lounais-Suomessa' you'll find topos of Hyyppivuori and Kahiluoto which both situates at Taivassalo area. In total the amount of routes is almost 50 and the climbing is completely natural. During the past years has development of this area been extraordinary and it seems that there's more to come...
British & Finnish ascents in High Atlas
UK Climbing reports about hard ascents by British and Finnish team in high Atlas, Morocco. Dave Pickford, Mike Turner, Jack Geldard, Steve Mayers and Juha Saatsi have managed the first British ascents of several hard routes in the area. The routes include Fantasia (F7b+/7c 700m), Rivieres Pourpres (F7c, 500m) onsight and L'Axe du Mal (F7c+, 600m). Juha climbed in a group with Jack and Dave. This group did the first two of the routes mentioned. Surf to UK Climbing for more deatails. Thanks to Antti Liukkonen.
'Ikaros' free by Teemu
Until now has the fall offered long and dry climbing season at the Southern Finland. On Saturday two weeks back was also Teemu Tapaninen inspired by the excellent conditions and managed to climb his latest project at Olhava. The line is called 'Ikaros' and it situates at the back cliffs of Olhava, sector Stradarotta. This early aid route was originally climbed and named at 2001 by Kari Laitila and it's graded stiff A2+/A3 in the official SKIL Topo, 2003.
Freeing the line took several weekends by Teemu. He describes the line cruxy with last third being the hardest. The crack takes reasonable amount of gear so it is not as scary as his last summer creation, 'Cro Magnon'. Maybe not an ideal onsight route says Teemu. The newborn holds grade around 8+ (7c) and is totally natural. Nice job!
Anssi Venho repeats Hottentotti assis
Yesterday Anssi Venho repeated Tomi Nytorp's "Hottentotti assis" (8a+). Earlier at least Henri Pöyry, Nalle Hukkataival and Anton Johansson have repeated the problem. Check out our gallery for a video of Nalle's repeat.
Hattori Hanzo flashed
Anssi Venho's testpiece boulderproblem "Hattori Hanzo" (8a) near Helsinki was flashed yesterday by no other than Nalle Hukkataival. Nalle's ascent was the first repeat of the problem despite many attempts by other hardmen. Good effort again!
During the weekend a group of boulderers from Jyväskylä and Helsinki attacked the bushes in Vaasa. On Saturday Marko Kauko became the first to repeat Tomi Nytorp's "Poketti ja krimppi" at Sundom area (see news 13.9.). Marko repeated the problem almost by accident on his 4th go while warming up. Anssi Venho, who's been desperate to get the 1st ascent of a very special problem attempted by almost all Finnish top guns, finally succeeded on doing "Hitman" ~8a:ish (Karperöfjärden, Rantatie). Anton Johansson seemed to be back in business after finger injuries. On Sunday Anton (and Marko) repeated "Uruk-hai" 7c in Merikaarto and Anton made the 1st ascent to a small but desperate problem to the right from "Uruk-hai". No name or grade yet but certainly harder than "Uruk-hai". Nice weather, great weekend!
Tomi repeated 'Dodo' assis
After bagging the hardest boulders in mainland, Tomi Nytorp took a logical step and headed to Ahvenanmaa (Åland) for a weekend. Today he visited Kasviken and repeated 'Dodo' sit start in a humid conditions. This was Tomi's fifth 8b within one month! 'Dodo' assis is about 45 degrees overhanging and consists of desperate slopers and crimps. The line was established on last April by Nalle Hukkataival. Tomi describes the route as the finest he has ever done.
Nalle fourth in Firminy Bouldering contest
Nalle Hukkataival continues his strong season by taking fourth position at the Bouldering World Cup competition in Firminy, France! The winner in the event was Tomasz Oleksy (POL), second Daniel Dulac (FRA) and third Kilian Fischhuber (AUT). For detailed results, surf to the result file (in pdf-format). Once again, big congratulations to Nalle!
A months ticklist
One months ticklist: Nothing changes (8a), Never ending story part 2 (8a), Fat boy (8a), No liberty (8a), Pønk (8a), Frogger (8a/+), Rosswell (8a+), Electroboogie (8a+), Bodycount (8a+), Sofa surfer (8a+), The left hand of darkness (8a+), Bamlamusa? (8a+), Steppenwolf (8b), Amber (8b), High spirit (8b), The riverbed (8b), Deep throat 8b(+?) and Ganymede takeover (8b+). As you see, after placing third in Arco Rockmasters earlier this month, Nalle Hukkataival has ticked some real rock in Switzerland. At the moment Nalle is on his way to Firminy France to attend a bouldering world cup event (30.9.-1.10). Good luck!
Tomi strikes at Espoo
If you haven't noticed yet, there is now one totally unstoppable climber out there taking all advantage of the dry autumn weather! Today Tomi Nytorp repeated 'Super Mario' (8b) at Espoo. Super Mario is medium steep boulder line with long moves between bad fingery holds. According to Tomi the route is maybe a bit soft for the grade and he therefore suggests more appropriate 8a+ for it. What next...
Tomi repeated '7 Veljestä'
Tomi Nytorp continues ticking the hardest boulders. This time Nalle Hukkataival testpiece from last May, '7 Veljestä' (8b) got repeated at Nurmijärvi. This mega steep arete consists of nice moves on small crimps spiced with couple of technical hooks. Tomi did the job on yesterday on his third visit at the boulder within last 2 months. As the man is on form, let's find some really hard lines for him to do. Anyone?
New hard problems near Jyväskylä by Tomi
Tomi Nytorp's weekend in Jyväskylä: "Vakiopaine" (7c+) flash and finally a second ascent to an old Juha Saatsi-problem "Nakit ja muusi" (7c+). Tomi also managed to climb two new traverses: "Unesco" (7c) and "Fyysikko" (8b). Check Projekti's website for more pics etc!
New hard problems in Vaasa by Tomi
During the last weekend Tomi Nytorp climbed two new and hard problems in Vaasa. The "easier" of the two - "Kuumalinja" - situates just right of "Hartman" in the Pet Cemetary area. Tomi was unsure of the grade, but it probably is not below 7c or 7c+. The second problem can be found in the Sundom area on the same boulder as "Tao Tao", see topo. The problem connects two holds, a pocket and a crimp, hence the name "Poketti ja krimppi", grade suggestion 7c+ to 8a. Also "Voimalinja" (~7b+) got two repetitions by Jykä Kauko and Tomi. What makes this noteworthy is that the problem was considered as a perfect example of height dependent line, morpho, with no repetitions(?). Well, Tomi is probably about 25cm shorter than Make Tawast who put up the problem, so it should be doable by us shorties (right...). Thanks to Jykä for the news!
New cliffs and routes at South-West Finland
Plenty of new routes have been established in our country during the past summer. For example Salo area has got heap of routes on two recently developed cliffs.
The first of these situates at Meisala, about 1 kilometers north-east from the 'old' Angelniemi bouldering spot. 14 new routes have been bolted and climbed by climbers from Turku region. Grades vary from harder six to 8a with 7a-7b being a typical level. Climbing is technical as the steepness varies from slab to gently overhanging. Stone quality is good and gentle to finger skin. The most active route setter has been Olli-Petteri Manni, who is also the father of the hardest lines: two 7c's and a vertical 8a test piece. You'll probably find some more info about the cliff in the next Kiipeily -magazine. Note the restrictions: park only to a place where you do not block the traffic. Also when walking to the cliff, use only field sides. DO NOT WALK THROUGH THE FIELD!!!
The other cliff, 'Haukkamäki', situates on the east side of Halikonlahti, only about 2 kilometers south-east from Meisala. Climbing at Haukkamäki is versatile as the angle varies from vertical to severely overhanging. The first line, 'El Gordo' (7c), was done by Martin Nugent already about 7 years ago. As the focus of route setting turned to new found Falkberget and Klöverberget, few years passed with no activities on the cliff. Most routes have been established on this and last summer by 'Helsinki crew'. At the moment 9 bolted routes have been climbed, the latest being 'Eldis' (6c) by Tatu Autio and 'Deep Impact' (7c+) by Rami Haakana. Other nice lines to mention are Tatu's 'Chocolate Salty Balls' (7a+/7b) and routes by Martin Nugent and Marko Heino.
Update 13.9. Some more IMPORTANT instructions concerning Meisala cliff!! * There has been planted trees in the forest immediately in the front of the cliff SO WATCH YOUR FEET! Do not tread on the plants. * Do not walk to the other side of the marking tape in the wood. Also do not walk to the other side of the small cottage in the area.
Sama suomeksi Meisalan kalliolla on tärkeää noudattaa seuraavia käyttäytymissääntöjä:
* Kalliolle saa kävellä ainoastaan pellon laitaa. Älä ylitä peltoa!
* Kallion alle ja välittömään ympäristöön on istutettu puuntaimia. Katso jalkoihisi ja varo polkemasta taimia.
* Metsässä olevan nauhan ja pikkumökin toiselle puolelle ei saa kulkea!
Pasila cave opens for winter season
Winter season starts at The Cave of SKEY ry at Pasila. The Cave is open for public every Saturday starting next weekend, 10th September. Open time is from 10 to 14 and cost per visit will be 5 Euros. Possible changes in schedule will be informed in the page of The Cave.
Nalle third in Rockmasters
Nalle's first masters competition seems to be a succes as he finished third in the Arco Rockmaster bouldering contest today! The winner was Kilian Fischhuber from Austria and second Loïc Gaidioz from France. For more detailed results, surf to the official pages of Arco Rockmasters. Congratulations to Nalle!
Update 6.9. A short quote from the Arco Rockmasters site regarding the route 3 that was topped only by Nalle:
"Boulder no. 3 is a beautiful slab invented by Godoffe. Just taking your feet off the ground is an impossible balance act, hands holdless apart from the distant arete. And this leads to the best bit: a dyno diagonally right to an undercling which, well, looks impossible to hold. Nalle Hukkataival makes the miracle happen on his second go. The boy from Finland seems to walk on air and, as if by magic, he reaches the hold that opens the way to the top: a beautiful game of opposing moves leads him up the semisphere and the finishing hold. The crowd goes wild. Incredible. Disbelief. Outstanding..."
Tomi defeats Hypergravity
Tomi Nytorp is on form. Today he ticked 'Hypergravity' (8b) at Sipoo. This was the first repeat to this roof problem, which is undoubtedly the most difficult boulder line in Finland at the moment. Hypergravity was established year back on September by the natural talent Nalle Hukkataival.
Last time Tomi tried the route two years ago and now he did the job on the second consecutive visit. This gives a promice of a good autumn season to Tomi!
Nalle's hard ticks on a way to Arco
After the wet NC event in Denmark, Nalle Hukkataival headed to Switzerland and did quick work for example with 'High Spirit' (8b) at Magic Wood.
The most interesting stop for his trip is on next Sunday (4.9.) at Arco, Northern Italy. Arco Rock Masters is probably the most recogniced masters competition and as a first Finnish competitor ever, Nalle got personal invitation to the event! Bouldering has been included in the event now for couple of years. Let's wish success to Nalle!
Bouldering NC at Aalborg
Update: Nordic Championships in bouldering were competed yesterday at Aalborg, Denmark. The weather was not on the side of organizers: mens final was not competed due to rainfall. The first two positions in male category were determined in a superfinal between Nalle Hukkataival and Danish Claus Vedel Jensen. This year the winner was Claus Vedel Jensen who climbed higher the single superfinal route. Nalle's position was second. In female category Eija Joensuu placed third after Swedes Angelica Lindh and Anja Hodan. Congratulations to Nalle and Eija! Thanks to Eija Joensuu for corrections.
Jari climbed 'Diablo' at Niemisel
Present Oulu inhabitant Jari Pöllänen did nice job by redpointing 'Diablo' (8a+) last weekend at Niemisel, Sweden. Congratulations!
Nalle Hukkataival flashed 5 of the 6 problems in the bouldering finals. His final postition in the World bouldering championships in Munich was fifth. Comments and more information will follow later. VERY big congratulations to Nalle!!
Update: Couple of videos from the competition added to the 'Videos' page.
WC 2005. Nalle 3rd in bouldering qualifications!
Qualification of the World Championships in bouldering: Nalle Hukkataival performed extremely well and placed third (together with Daniel Dulac and Tomás Mrazek) after Salavat Rakhmetov (RUS, 1st) and Keita Mogaki (JPN, 2nd). Nalle flashed 4 of the 6 problems and managed to top one more. According to Nalle the fifth qualification problem was an extremely difficult one. Of the ~130 climbers only Rakhmetov managed to top this problem. Finals are held tomorrow at 20.30 (Finnish time). Results and live video of the finals > here.
More ascents to 'Swing It'
The Swedish sports climbing mecca Niemisel has been seeing regular weekend invasions by climbers from Northern Finland. One of the test pieces 'Swing It' (8a) saw yesterday it's third Finnish ascent by Jani Lehtola from Oulu. Congratulations! The line was climbed 2 weeks ago by Jari Pöllänen and couple of weeks back by Sami Haapakoski.
World championships in Munich
World championships 2005 in difficulty, bouldering and speed climbing are now in progress at Munich, Germany. The only Finnish participant in difficulty, Tomi Nytorp topped the first of the two qualification routes and did also well on the second one. The level however was extremely high and Tomi's final position was shared 40th of total 116 participants. Best Scandinavian was Peter Bosma (SWE) with his impressive 13th position.
Bouldering qualifications will start on Monday 4th and our hope there is Nalle Hukkataival. All the best to Nalle!
New cliff at Kustavi, Hopiavuori
Development of Kustavi area continues and the place is rapidly becoming a Finnish trad climbing paradise! The local climbers have just released fourth topo from the area. The latest spot Hopiavuori offers around 40 (!) versatile routes ranging from 4- to 8+. Hardest lines are established by Perttu Ollila who has made his mark on the other cliffs at the area as well. Please visit the pages of Rock climbing in South-West Finland for the topos. A good moment to get familiar with the climbing at Kustavi could be the Kustavi climbing gathering at the first weekend of July.
'Swing It' repeated by Sami
'Swing It' (8a) at Niemisel got repeated last weekend by Sami Haapakoski from Oulu. Sami was on form also last summer when he ticked several hard lines at Niemisel, including 'A Day in A Life' (8b).
New routes at Luhti
Toby Archer reports about two nice additions at Luhti cliff, Askola. 'Trad Jihad' is a crackline just left of route 15 'Mineral-p'. The second one is the groove line going up just to the left of route 10 'Le system de detachable boulon'. This route is called 'Sarcophagus Groove' as it goes past something that looks like a stone coffin. The grades are 5+ and 5- respectively. Routes were established past weekend by Toby and seconded by Jody Wren.
Update 1.6. 'Trad Jihad' has actually been climbed about three weeks earlier by Saku Korosuo who gave it a name 'Namula'. The new lines will probably be updated to the topo in the near future.
Hard on-sights by Tomi
Tomi Nytorp and Mina Jokivirta spent couple of weeks climbing in Southern France. They visited some of the best crags in the area including Gorges du Tarn and St Leger du Ventoux. During their stay Tomi managed to on-sight total of four 8a's! You'll find the details in the next 'Kiipeilylehti' which should be out around mid June. Nice job!
Solvalla cliff parking restrictions
Parking near Solvalla cliff at Espoo has caused problems during the spring. Owner of the cottage nearby, the local rescue service and ordinary users of the road have been complaining about wild parking and behaviour of some climbers.
In order to prevent access limitations in the near future, SKIL has given instructions for parking and for other noteworthy matters. Please leave your car to the parking area of the sports institute of Solvalla instead of the roadside. More info on the pages of SKIL.
7 veljestä (8b) by Nalle
Yesterday Nalle Hukkataival completed one of his projects, this time in Nurmijärvi. The new "7 veljestä" is about 70 degrees overhanging arete. Grade suggestion is 8b. Excellent work! Aleksis Kivi, the author of the book "Seven brothers" (first novel written in the Finnish language) grew up and lived in Nurmijärvi. A large boulder has quite an important role in the story. The brothers, however, dispatched the boulder quite easily trying to escape from a horde of bulls.
New bolting at Jaanankallio
A popular cliff Jaanankallio at Hyvinkää/Kytäjä area got re-equipped last weekend. Teemu Ojala and Ari Kujanpää installed 6 new anchors and 17 bolts to the cliff. Main target was to correct older bolting and to improve safety, but also a new route 'Velli' (5- or 5a) was established. This line situates next to 'Sile Stone' on the right side. See the picture on the right.
Following improvements were made: * Käkimassaa, an ancient 'super bold' route by Nikko Prauda was equipped with 3 bolts and an anchor
* Routes Moovijumppa, Pyhimys, Vompatti, Antipatia, Magma Red and Silestone got new anchors
* Routes Woodpecker, Magma Red, Stinger and Haliba were rebolted
* Invicta got one bolt to the upper slab
Access to Rollarit
SKIL (Finnish Climbing Association) informs that the negotiations concerning the access to Rollarit cliff are over. Climbing is now allowed for individuals but chargeable activity and arranged groups are forbidden. For detailed info surf to the pages of SKIL.
Nalle climbs the old Kasviken project
Nalle Hukkataival climbed the old Kasviken project in Geta. The standing start called "Dodo" was already climbed some years ago by Anton Johansson. Nalle found a new method on the lower part using a very small crimper and climbed this true and natural line in about 10 moves. Grade is about 8b and name is "Dodo".
Neuvottelut Falkbergetin maanomistajan kanssa ovat vielä kesken.
Autoa ei saa missään tapauksessa jättää vanhalle paikalle eikä myöskään muualle Stenbacka-tien varteen.
Tämä kielto on ehdoton!
Jos access-ongelma ratkeaa, siitä tiedotetaan välittömästi.
Jyväskylä Finnish-cup results
Seasons last Finnish cup competition at Jyväskylä consisted on both bouldering and on-sight rounds. The winner in male category was Kuutti Huhtikorpi and second Jere Ylönen who was impressively the only one to flash all the eight boulders. Third one was Bruce March. In female category the winner was Russian Anna Mikoushkina who collected highest points from both boulders and on-sight route. Roosa Huhtikorpi and Eevi Jaakkola shared the second position. For detailed results, surf to pages of Projekti.
In addition to "Dreamtime", Nalle Hukkataival managed to do for example the following problems during his trip to Switzerland: "Gully" 8a+, "Jungle" 8a, "Le pilier" 8a, "Le vent sombre" 8a and
"Kirk Winstein" 8a+. Nice beginning for the starting Finnish bouldering season!
Results from Nordic Championships
Nordic Championships lead 2005
1. Magnus Midtbo NOR
2. Tomi Nytorp FIN
3. Said Belhaj SWE
10. Olli-Petteri Manni FIN
12. Kuutti Huhtikorpi FIN
13. Sampo Kiesiläinen FIN
17. Joonas Sailaranta FIN
20. Teemu Tapaninen FIN
1. Linn Karin Stendal NOR
2. Malin Folkestad NOR
3. Roosa Huhtikorpi FIN*
4. (3.) Stine Ostergaard DEN
8. Heini Merikallio FIN
13. Mina Jokivirta FIN
*= not official participant
NM 2005 1st day
The first day of 2005 Nordic championships in sportclimbing in Sweden has ended. Tomi Nytorp was the only Finnish male to get into the finals. Also O-P Manni got really close. Together with Tomi other strong competitors in the finals are for example Said Belhaj (SWE), Martin Mobråten and Magnus Midtbo (NOR). In women, Roosa Huhtikorpi and Heini Merikallio are climbing in the finals tomorrow. Good luck!
Results, Bouldering Masters 2005
Bouldering Masters 2005 results have been added to the results page. Top scores below. Thanks to Joonas Sailaranta for the results.
Today Nalle Hukkataival repeated a boulderproblem called "Dreamtime" at Cresciano. That's probably enough said. Supersized congratulations!
Lappicup 2005 results, Rovaniemi
The second one of the seasons two Lappicup competitions was arranged on 26th February at Rovaniemi. The competition format was a combination of bouldering qualifications and worked lead finals.
The sunny competition day was started underground at the RVK cave at Karkalovaara, where route setter Jani Lunnas had created a decent set of 10 qualification routes. After three hours of intese cranking the order for the finals was clear. Biggest heap of points was collected by Kuutti Huhtikorpi (Erä), followed by Joonas Sailaranta (Erä) and Olli-Petteri Manni (Kruxi). The other finalists were Sami Haapakoski (OKS), Risto Saarinen (RVK) and Rami Haakana (SKEY). Participation in female category consisted of the 'basic set' of Tapanilan Erä: Roosa Huhtikorpi, Eevi Jaakkola and Heini Merikallio, who all continued to the finals in this order. There is certainly space for many more women climbers!
The finals were climbed at the other side of the town at the wall of Lapin urheiluopisto. The wall is actually the oldest lead wall in Finland, built already at the beginning of nineties. Despite of the somewhat 'old school' wall profiles, the route setter Sampo Kiesiläinen had managed to create versatile and challenging routes for the finals.
At the start of the finals round, every competitor was allowed to rehearse the route for 10 minutes. Women started the actual competition round and the only top out was shown by Roosa Huhtikorpi. Eevi became second and Heini third. Kuutti Huhtikorpi was the best in male category, although the long reach below mid route from a gaston hold was about to become as crucial for him as it became to OPM. Kuutti was the only climber to get up to the roof section. The second was Joonas Sailaranta with easy looking style. Sami Haapakoski and Rami Haakana fell at the same hold so their 3rd and 4th positions were determined by the qualification results.
The evening was continued in a relaxed atmosphere at the top floor of hotel Santa Claus. Arrangements were excellent so many thanks to the RVK crew for a nice competition day!
Again another Finnish cup competition of the season was competed during the past weekend. The event took place at Pori and was participated by about 20 climbers. Qualification, semifinal and final routes were the same both for men and women. In short, the order in male category was Tomi Nytorp 1st, Olli-Petteri Manni 2nd and Teemu Tapaninen 3rd. Eevi Jaakkola was 1st followed by Mina Jokivirta and Heini Merikallio in the female category. Detailed results have been added to the results page.
Lappicup results added to the results page
Results from the first of the two Lappicup events have been added to the results page. Location was the cave of OKS at Oulu and style was bouldering. Kuutti Huhtikorpi dominated in the male category and climbed all routes within an hour. Risto Saarinen climbed also all routes, so the final order was determined in superfinals. Roosa Huhtikorpi was the best in the female category before Heini Merikallio.
Speed SM 2005 results
Nine male and five female climbers competed for the Finnish championships in speed climbing at Kiipeilykeskus last Saturday. The order in male category was Kuutti Huhtikorpi, Vesa Salonen and Teemu Tapaninen. In women, the winner was Heini Merikallio, second Roosa Huhtikorpi and third Eevi Jaakkola. More detailed results will be added to the results page in the near future. Congratulations to the medalists.
Tomi Nytorp won Nordic Championships in difficulty
Nordic Championships in difficulty were held past weekend in Copenhagen, Denmark. Tomi Nytorp won the men’s event after superfinal. Both Nytorp and Peter Bosma topped out in the qualification, semifinal and final, so superfinal was needed to separate the climbers. Nytorp climbed absolutely superbly in the superfinal and almost topped out the route just falling from the top hold and winning the title by large margin. So Bosma was runner-up and Martin Mobråten placed third. (JP)
Update 29.11. Other results: Olli-Petteri Manni 6th, Joonas Sailaranta 18th. Women: Eerika Pawli 7th, Eevi Jaakkola 8th, Mina Jokivirta 12th. For detailed results, surf to the pages of Nordisk 2004.
Anton ticked 8b+ route in Thailand
Camu team member Anton Johansson has climbed an 8b+ route at Tonsai Beach, Thailand. The line is marked as a project in a topo but according to the local climbers it has been climbed by Chris Sharma. Name is yet unknown. It took about 15 tries for Anton to do the route.
Anton has also been working on a harder 8c+ route but has teared his finger recently. He has however a target to climb the route before returning from the trip on March...
Kinkkuboulder 2004 results
The annual Kinkkuboulder event gathered over 200 boulderers together to enjoy a quality climbing day at Klondyke wall, Kerava.
The highest score (641 points) and the ham was collected by Nalle Hukkataival who was the only one to climb all 46 routes during 5 hours qualification. Nalle was also superior in the 'Hardmen' finals where he flashed 5 out of 6 routes. Sampo Kiesiläinen placed second with one top-out and 3 bonus holds. Third was Olli Manni with one top-out and 1 bonus.
In 'Hardwomen', the winner was Roosa Huhtikorpi, second Eija Joensuu, and third Eevi Jaakkola. In the most popular A-category ('Toppahousut'), the order was Jussi Kuoppasalmi (1st), Jussi Mikkonen (2nd) and Jani Hautala (3rd). In the B-category ('Sunnuntaikiipeilijät') Juha Olli was 1st, Eetu Koivisto 2nd and Jarkko Linkosuonio 3rd. For more detailed results, surf to results page.
Despite of the high popularity, this was the last ever Kinkkuboulder event. Let's hope that the tradition goes on in some form. Big thanks to the arrangement team!
Results from the Finnish cup at Turku
Climbing club Kruxi arranged the season's second Finnish cup event at Turku past weekend. This time the style was on-sight, and the competition got nice participation with total of 40 competitors: 29 men and 11 women. Both categories had qualification, semifinals and finals round to climb.
The exclusive winner in male category was Tomi Nytorp who was the only one to top out the semifinals route. He almost topped the finals route where no one else managed to climb past the tricky mid route crux. The second was Joonas Sailaranta and third Olli-Petteri Manni. Winner in the female category was Roosa Huhtikorpi with the same finals result as Eevi Jaakkola. The order between first two positions was therefore resolved by the result of semifinals, where Roosa took only a quarter of points more compared to Eevi. The third was Heini Merikallio.
Thanks to the Kruxi for excellent competition and congratulations to the winners! For detailed results, surf to the results page.
'Listerie' repeated by Nalle
Nalle Hukkataival had a good bouldering weekend at South-West Finland during the past weekend. First he managed to climb an old project at Half Dome boulder of Luolavuori, Turku. The line got name 'Banaanipuikkoja' and the grade around 7c+. At Angelniemi near Salo, Nalle managed to repeat 'Listerie', a route Tomi Nytorp established few weeks back. According to Nalle, the grade is solid 8a+. Thanks to Heikki Toivanen for the news.
Last thursday Nalle Hukkataival (who?) made a repeat to 'Kasparov' (8a/8a+) at Meilahti cliff, Helsinki. The boulder was first climbed by Tomi Nytorp on spring 2003. Check the story about the first ascent by Anton Johansson.
Old project climbed in Angelniemi
Last Sunday Tomi Nytorp climbed an old project at Angelniemi. 'Listerie' (Fb 8a+) takes the obvious overhanging wall right of 'Super Crack' and it consists of very dynamic and powerful moves between small crimps. The route is 5-6m high which makes projecting quite difficult so ladders are recommented for anybody who tries the upper moves. Congratulations!
On the same day Henri 'Heko' Pöyry made the 2nd repeat of 'Millyways' (Fb 8a) at Mynämäki near Turku. Heko practically hiked the route after few nervous tries on his second day on the route. Congrats to Heko also!
Results from Youth NC, Kopenhagen
Youth Nordic Championships were competed last weekend at Kopenhagen, Denmark. Finnish participants did well in both girls and boys event! Roosa Huhtikorpi won at the girls 89-90 age group and Heini Merikallio became second on 87-88 category. Boys 87-88 category was participated by 3 guys. Kuutti Huhtikorpi was second, Ossi Päivänsäde fifth and Markus Fogelholm sixth in this age group. Congratulations! For more detailed results, surf to http://jnm.klatreforbund.dk/page5.html.
Nalle opened a new 8b roof problem
Last friday Nalle Hukkataival managed to climb an old Nytorp roof project at Sipoo. Nalle describes 'Hypergravity' as a horizontal roof with 8 hard moves to a rest and then about the same amount of moves over the lip to the top. According to Nalle, the grade is a solid 8b. Althoug, there are no repeats yet, the grade has been confirmed by other 'hardmen'. Congratulations!
Results from YWC, Edinburg
Six Finns took part in Youth World Championships last weekend at Edinburg, Great Britain. In female juniors Eevi Jaakkola placed 21/35, Heini Merikallio 42/49 (Youth A category) and Roosa Huhtikorpi 37/48 (Youth B). In boys event all Finns competed in Youth A category. Final positions: Ossi Päivänsäde 42nd, Kuutti Huhtikorpi 43rd and Markus Fågelholm 48th. This category was participated by 62 competitors in total. See Digitalrock for more info.
Sami does 'A Day in a Life' at Niemisel
Yesterday Sami Haapakoski from Oulu climbed a Niemisel testpiece 'A Day in A Life' (8b). This was the second Finnish ascent to the route after Tomi Nytorp. Congratulations to Sami for the brilliant effort! Thanks to Jarmo Annunen for reporting.
Tomi ticks at Northern Sweden
When returning from the trip to Lofoten Islands, Tomi Nytorp stopped few days for climbing at Northern Sweden. During 4 days, Tomi managed to climb impressive list of routes at Niemisel, Källsberget and Åberget. Hardest was 'A Day in Life' (8b) at Niemisel, which he did on the second go. Tomi thinks the route holds the grade. He also climbed 'E-Type' (7c) and 'Viva Las Vegas' (7b+) onsight. At Källsberget both 'Rallyplaneten' (7c+) and 'My Little Pony' (7b+) were climbed on-sight as well as 'Just Did It' (8a) at Åberget... Addition: Tomi's onsight of "Just did it" might be the first 8a onsight in Sweden. A week after Tomi's ascent also Said Belhaj onsighted a route of this grade according to 8a.nu.
Nalle's trip to Switzerland
Nalle Hukkataival is back from a two week trip to Switzerland where he stayed mostly in Magic Wood but paid a visit to Sustenpass and Cresciano also.
In the Magic Wood Nalle managed to repeat for example:
Lolo ferrari, 7c
Du cotê de Seshuan, 7c+/8a
Massive attacke, 8a+/8b
Man of the cow, 7c+
La dance, 7c (flash)
Pura vida, 8b
Jack´s broken heart, 8a+
Fightclub, 7c+ (flash)
Groove attack, 8a
The never-ending story part 1, 8b (the problem was more or less wet)
And last but not least a second repeat to a nameless new hard slab
two nameless 7c+ flashes, both according to Nalle about 7c.
Before the trip he also repeated Tomi Nytorp's recent "Millyways" (8a) at Mynämäki near Turku.
Big Congratulations to Nalle!!
Teemu climbs 'Cro Magnon'
Teemu Tapaninen has opened a new route at Olhava last Wednesday. This naturally protected line is called 'Cro Magnon' and it situates on the arete between 'Los Capitanos' and 'Viimeinen Dinosaurus'. The route offers quite bold climbing as the first gear placement is at 15 meters height. For the on-sight attempts, it's good to know that the technical and reachy crux comes at about 10 meters. Better to have a dry pair of extra shoes and chalk bag for a second go... Teemu suggests stiff 8 (French 7b) for difficulty.
Kikka and Syyshämärä
While visiting her home ground in Jyväskylä Kirsi Hiironen has managed to climb for example Jussi Remonen's classic boulderproblem "Syyshämärä" 7b at Näätäkivi in Jyväskylä. Nice work Kikka!
Nalle in Turku
Despite the rainy weather conditions this summer Nalle Hukkataival has managed to climb some of the harder boulderproblems in Turku. Nalle did for example "Kellarijengi" and the sitting start version of "Matahari". Despite some controversy about the grades Nalle thought that both problems are 8a. Earlier this summer he repeated "Hyperfreak" 7c+ at Kärsämäki. Congratulations to Nalle for staying fit!
Results from EM 2004, Lecco
European championsips in difficulty, bouldering and speed were held at Lecco (Italy) during last week. Nalle Hukkataival took part in bouldering and placed 29th of total 57 competitors. This was the best scandinavian performance. In difficulty event, Janina Käyhkö placed shared 41th position of 43 competitors. Surf to Digitalrock for detailed results.
Yesterday Marko Kauko managed to climb "Jason's roof" 8a+ in Crookrise, Yorkshire. Picture can be found at Projekti's website. Congratulations to Marko!
I Feel Good
Last saturday Sami Haapakoski climbed "I Feel Good" (8a+) at Niemisel in Sweden. Video of the ascent can be found on our videogallery. Congratulations to Sami!
Climbing prohibited in Falkberget!
The landlord of Falkberget has prohibited climbing on the cliff from this on. This is very sad news and huge loss, as Falkberget was one of the best spots for rock climbing in Southern-Finland.
Reason for prohibition is on disregard of rules concerning e.g. parking. Major part of the climbers know how to behave on the cliffs but thoughtlessness of few or only a single climber can lead to this kind of consequence. Really a sad day for Finnish climbing.
Falkberget has been removed from the cliff database for the time being.
Access to Klöverberget
In addition to Falkberget, another popular cliff in Southern-Finland is Klöverberget. Martin Nugent reports that the relations with the land owner are good but there are some rules what comes to parking. If the instructed small parking place is full, do not park beside the main road! This will block the view for the people coming from the yards, which may cause dangerous situations. Instead, you'll find a place to park about two hundred meters to Evitskog direction, near the crossing of Annila. More exactly, turn to Annila and immediately turn left to a small road. Park on the left side but here also, do not block the road.
In order to prevent further access problems, it may be good to review some of the main rules for behaving on the cliffs:
1. Park your car to a place told in the topo. If the parking place is full, leave your car to a place where it won't cause any problems. Do not block roads or by-ways to the fields.
2. Take all your garbage with you when you leave the cliff. Even the cigarette stubs and pieces of finger tape!
3. Do not make any unnecessary noise as in many places there are people living nearby.
4. Do not walk to the cliff through someones yard. Rather than walking through the fields, use the field sides. There might be something growing on the field.
5. Do not build an open fire without permission from the land owner. You need a permission also for cutting down trees, bolting and removal of moss.
6. Use your common sense!
Oma Planeetta repeated by Tomi
Yesterday morning the hardest route at Olhava, 'Oma Planeetta' (8a+), got it's first repeat by Tomi Nytorp. This beautiful line was bolted by Henrik Suihkonen about 10 years ago and got it's first ascent by Henkka about 5 years ago. Despite of fast ascent, Tomi thinks that the route is hard for the grade and it could well be 8b. Congratulations (again) to Tomi and thanks to Joonas Sailaranta for reporting!
Nalle at Rollarit
Nalle Hukkataival added two new hard boulderproblems to Rollarit. One should be about 7c. The other one is a hard double dyno from an undercling and small crimper. Nalle could not grade the problem but considered it as maybe the hardest problem he's done. Nice job!
Tomi on-sighted Matador!!!
Today Tomi Nytorp made Finnish climbing history by on-sighting Matador (8a) at Falkberget, Kirkkonummi!!! This is the first known 8a onsight in Finland. What makes this performance even more significant, the quickdraws were put in during the ascent.
Matador was established five years ago by Martin Nugent. The route goes up the beautiful overhanging arete and offers both powerful and sustained climbing. Matador was first considered 8a+ but when an easier sequence was found for the crux, the grade settled to around 8a.
According to Tomi, the on-sight was not easy. First hard part was the long move at the crux section below third bolt. After getting feet up and passing the long move up to the small crimp, the problem was getting the quickdraw in to the third bolt and rope clipped in. Next hard part was the slopy arete before a rest, and the last roof section was causing hard time as Tomi went to it wrong handed. Extremely brilliant effort! BIG congratulations to Tomi!!!
Arthur Dent and Sméagol by Tomi
Tomi Nytorp has been actively changing the old projects into new routes! Earlier May Tomi managed to climb the last project of Havukallio calling it 'Arthur Dent' (7c+/8a). The line situates left from 'Captain Kirk' and was bolted looong time ago. According to Tomi the route offers reasonably easy climbing after a cruxy start. On the middle of May Tomi also managed to climb his old project at Mäyrävuori, Tampere. The line got name 'Sméagol' and the grade is stiffer, probably around 8a+. Tomi did also a quick second go repeat to 'Adlon' (8a) at Nummi cliff.
Couple of days ago Tomi also added a new hard boulder 'Millyways' (8a) at Mynämäki, near Turku.
Hottentotti assis repeated
Nalle Hukkataival managed to do the 2nd repeat of "Hottentotti assis" (8a+) in Espoo. Also Anton Johansson has repeated the problem which was put up by Tomi Nytorp a couple of weeks ago.
Anssi Venho added a sitting start to "Melankolia" in Mellunmäki. The "assis" adds a powerful one move using a poor hold with your left hand and catching the left hand starting hold. Grade is about 7c.
Marko Kauko has put up a fine looking problem in Crookrise, Yorkshire. Marko named the problem "Karjala". We don't know if he meant the fine Finnish beer or the area lost to Russians in II world war... See Projekti's website for another picture. Congrats to all!
Yesterday Anton Johansson managed to do his long standing project in Espoo calling it "Super Mario". The problem is about 40 degrees overhanging with nice moves on small holds. Together with Tom Nystrop (who?!) Anton thought the grade could be 8b. Nice work Anton!
Significant ascents at Liljendal (part II)
Also Nalle Hukkataival seems to be unstoppable at the moment! Yesterday Nalle visited Liljendal where he did for example "Pukaron Paroni" (8a, 3-4 tries). Also he managed to climb "Elonkorjuu" (7c+), "Tsuit Tsait" (7b+) and "Basically Done" by dynoing from bad crimps a little higher than in the Northern Lights video.
A little earlier Nalle had repeated Anton's "Sienityttö" (7c+) at Rollarit and "Hueco Blues" (7c) at Mellunmäki. Both in Helsinki.
Hottentotti assis 8a+
Tomi Nytorp has done the 1st ascent of "Hottentotti assis" (8a+) in Espoo. The sitdown start adds 3 hard moves to the stand-up version which Tomi opened two years ago. Tomi seems to be unstoppable at the moment. Thanks to Jari Pöllänen (again...) for the news!
Bouldering action at Rollarit
Anssi Venho has opened a new traverse problem at the popular rock climbing cliff Rollarit. Anssi's new "Countdown" (7c) starts sitting from the right arete on Sienityttö-boulder, traverses left and finishes on Anton's "Sienityttö".
Significant ascents at Liljendal
Here is some collected news from Liljendal about what has been happening there during the spring. Tomi Nytorp has made the 1st ascent of "Pukaron Paroni" (8a) and it was repeated by Anton Johansson. The line situates on the 45 degrees overhanging wall near "Villen Pitkäveto". The route has long moves on semi-small crimps and it tops out to the slap on the other side of the arête. The same pair also climbed an another project right from "Nakkifakiiri". Tomi did the 1st ascent by flashing it and Anton then quickly repeated it. The route is called "Tsuit-Tsait" (7b+). Tomi also did the 2nd ascent of "Basically Done" (7c) by not dynoing to the top but crimping out from some poor holds and somehow making it to the top.
Nytorp has also made two hard traverses to Liljendal. First to go was "Piérre Chavaliér" (8a+) which starts from "Misty" and ends topping "Sweet Smoke". Later on he made from right to left traverse called "Sormifestarit" (8a) which situates on the same overhanging wall as "Pukaron Paroni".
Thanks to Jari Pöllänen for reporting!
Bouldering news from Switzerland
During their time in Switzerlands major bouldering venues in March and April Ville Kurru, Toni Rantanen, Marko Kauko, Kirsi Hiironen and Juha Saatsi ticked some nice problems including Juha's and Ville's ascent to 'Octopussy' (8a/+). Here's something that Ville wrote to us in Finnish:
"Lähdimme matkalle Toni Rantasen aka Lil'Tonyn kanssa 21.3 ja tarkoituksena oli viettää noin kuukausi Euroopan boulderparatiisissa.
Tässä muutamia bouldereita, joita tuli kiivettyä: Octopussy 8a/+ (Magic Wood), Nameless prow 8a (Chironico), Acid House 7c+ (Brione), Soucoupe left 7c+ (Chironico), Son of a gun 7c/+ (Magic Wood), Rainbirds 7c (Chironico), Michi's problem 7c (Cresciano) ja viisi muuta hienoa 7c:tä. Pääsimme harjaamaan ja kiipeämään myös muutaman uuden probleeman, nice...
Myös Toni kiipesi suuret määrät upeita bouldereita ja pääsi tavoitteeseensa tikaten kolme hienoa 7a:n nousua.
Paikalla vierailivat myös Suomen Brittivahvistukset Juha, Marko ja Kikka. Hekin tikkasivat aimoläjän hienoja probleemoita, joista kovin Juhan nousu Octopussyyn 8a/+ Magic Woodissa.
Ilma oli koko reissun ajan hyvä, vaikkakin lämpötila kohosi päivisin ylensä 20 asteen tienoille. Magic Woodissa kelit olivat korkeamman sijainnin takia täydelliset (+5 astetta). Siellä olisi voinut viettää kauemminkin, mutta lumentulo lopetti kiipeilyt toisen päivän jälkeen. "
Nalle going very strong.
After his eastern bouldering vacation where he was flashing for example a superb 7c/+ and making some notable highball first ascents Nalle Hukkataival visited Vaasa last weekend. Nalle climbed for example "Sirkus" (7c). Good effort! Thanks to Jarmo Annunen for reporting!
12 years old project climbed in Havukallio
Last Saturday Tomi Nytorp made the first ascent of very old project in Havukallio. This beautiful slightly overhanging line was bolted 12 years ago and it situates left from "Ee-mäntä". The route is about 15 meters long and it could be characterized as very technical climbing with small and sharp crimps. Tomi named the route as "Maailmanlopun Ravintola" (8a). Thanks to Jari Pöllänen for reporting!
'Forte' repeated by Kalle
A classic testpiece, 'Forte Risoluto' (7c+) in Jyväskylä, got today another repeat within a short time. This time, the line was climbed by the strong local Kalle Nättinen, with a fresh PhD thesis in his pocket. Congratulations! Thanks to Päivi Peltola for the news.
Mika does 'Forte Risoluto'
Projekti reports that Mika Hinkkanen has climbed Juha Saatsi's (1997) boulderproblem 'Forte Risoluto' (7c+) in Jyväskylä. Good effort!
Spring boulder action
Last saturday Henri Pöyry climbed a long standing project at Soukka (Espoo). 'Ananasakäämä' (7b+/7c) is on the face right of 'Saturday night fever'. At Jero near Joensuu Olli Pyykönen repeated 'Humanoidi' 7c. Thanks to Tommy Vänskä for reporting.
News from Fontainebleau
Tomi Nytorp has just returned from 3 weeks bouldering trip to Fontainebleau. He managed to tick an absolutely amazing list of problems as follows:
Apremont and Apremont Bixons:
Tomi climbed 'Phénix' (7c+) and wall problem called 'Merry Christmas' (7c) at Apremont and he also made a quick repeat of 'Shoot' (7c+) at Apremont Bixons. All these were climbed on the same day.
Bas Cuvier and Cuvier Rempart:
Two mega classics 'La Balance' (7c+) and 'Hypothèse' (7c+) at Cuvier and overhanging sitstart 'Verdict' (7c+) at Cuvier-Rempart. Both 'Verdict' and 'la Balance' were climbed on the same day.
Tomi climbed a famous traverse 'Atomic Playboy' (8a+) on 3rd try. He also made a quick one hour repeat of roof problem 'Mongolito' (8a), despite the fact that all the three holds on the roof were wet during the repeat. See the picture.
There must be something special on this problem called 'Hibernatus'. Tomi liked the problem so much that at first, he climbed stand version (7c), then lower start version (8a) and finally sitstart version 'Hibernatus assis' (8a+). All the 'Hibernatuses' were climbed in very short time during the same day.
Francard Cuisinière and Franchard Isatis:
Tomi climbed an another hard traverse (20 moves long) 'Liaison Futile' (8a+) at Cuisinière and an overhanging problem called 'Vita Beata' (8a) at Isatis. Both routes were climbed during the same day.
Here he did big roof called 'La Baleine' (7c+).
Rocher de Bouligny:
Here Tomi managed to climb a nice overhanging problem 'Les Beaux Quartiers' (8a).
Thanks to Jari Pöllänen for info and Mina Jokivirta for the photo.
Seasons first hard boulders at capital area
On tuesday Nalle Hukkataival climbed the project number 9 (pictured on the right) at Bemböle. The grade of this crimpy highball is around 7c. In addition, Nalle also flashed the tricky 'Delikatessen' (7b). After returning from Fontainebleau, Tomi Nytorp climbed a new hard line at Sotunki, Vantaa. This one is also a crimpy highball with a grade estimate around 7c. Guys have been too busy to name the routes yet. Thanks to Jussi Isoaho and Jari Pöllänen for info.
Finnish Championships 2004 results
Finnish Championships in difficulty was competed yesterday 27.3.
Good amount of spectators had found their way to Helsingin Kiipeily-keskus. Unfortunately this did not apply to the competitors as only five men and four women registered. Injuries and travels prevented some of the hardmen and -women to participate, but there must also be other, more significant reasons. Despite of poor participation, the atmosphere, praised routes by Jussi Koivulahti and good overall arrangements made the event most enjoyable!
Kuutti Huhtikorpi gave brilliant effort on the finals and tied with Olli-Petteri Manni with top-minus result. As they both had also topped the qualification route, superfinal was unavoidable. Olli-Petteri was better on the mega-stiff superfinal route and took the championship. Teemu Tapaninen was third with his smooth and impressive style.
Superfinal was unavoidable also in womens event as Eevi Jaakkola and Eerika Pawli fell from the same hold on the finals. In the end Eevi climbed the men's qualification route slightly higher and took the championship. Eija Joensuu became third.
One reasons for the poor popularity of on-sight comps is maybe on the unforgiving competition format. You have only one single chance to give your best, compared to the bouldering comps, where the same problem can be tried several times. This means that competing with rope demands good nerves, whereas, bouldering no nerves at all. One of the essential qualities is good tolerance for lactic acid. This can only be trained with 'no pain, no gain' attitude. Are we getting too indolent? C'mon, we can do better!
Thanks to Antti Saarikoski for the results and Olli-Pekka Orpo for the photos. Congratulations to the winners!
Ice Climbing Finnish Masters 2004
The Finnish masters in Ice climbing was held yesterday in Oulu. Sara Fagerstedt took the gold both in womens difficulty and speed! Nico Backström won the mens difficulty and Jukka Tervaskanto took gold in mens speed. Congratulations to everyone! See the Results -page. More also at the official site and some pictures can be found here. Story and video on Kaleva newspapers web site.
Thanks to Jouni Aspi for reporting!
Baltic Open and other competition info
Detailed competition invitations to SM in difficulty and Baltic Open have been added to the Competitions page. Yearly Baltic Open will be held at the end of May in Riga, Latvia. Last year there were participants also from Finland. For pictures and results, surf to the pages of Baltic Open. Thanks to Lauma Kazusa for info.
Nalle 1st and Tomi 3rd in NC bouldering!
Scandinavian Championships in bouldering was a great success for Finland! Nalle Hukkataival, who has lately dominated national bouldering competitions, took today gold in Bergen. Tomi Nytorp did also really good job and placed third after Peter Bosma (SWE) better known as excellent onsight climber and regular winner in difficulty NC's. Anssi Venho placed 12th. Detailed results in these pages.
It can be concluded that Finland was clearly the best country with three medals of the six available. Congratulations to all medalists and quick recovery to Miika Hakari, who twisted his ankle during the qualification round.
Henri Pöyry climbs Bleau classics
During the last weeks spell of good weather in Fontainebleau Henri Pöyry climbed for example such classics as "La Balance" (7c+), "La Gaule" (7c) and "Futurs Barbares direct" (8a). Good effort!
Eija took silver in NC bouldering!
Women have just ended their final round in NC bouldering. Eija Joensuu climbed extremely well and got silver after the winner Rikke Ishøj from Denmark. Janina Käyhkö was 7th and Eerika Pawli 12th. Mens final is still on-going and we'll have to wait for the results. Thanks to Henrik Suihkonen for information and big congrats to Eija!
NC bouldering, qualification results
The qualification round of NC in bouldering was competed today at Bergen. Three Finnish men qualified to the tomorrows finals. These were Nalle Hukkataival (3rd), Tomi Nytorp (4th) and Anssi Venho (12th). All women will also compete tomorrow. Detailed results can be found from these pages.
NC Bouldering, the walls
Nordic Bouldering Championships will be competed on coming weekend in Bergen, Norway. Some idea about the walls can be found from the following pages of Norwegian Climbing Federation. Thanks to Pia Pylvänäinen for the link.
Finnish participants according to the organizer: Miika Hakari, Mika Hinkkanen, Nalle Hukkataival, Karri Lammila, Olli-Petteri Manni, Tomi Nytorp, Anssi Venho, Eija Joensuu, Janina Käyhkö and Eerika Pawli. We wish all the best for the Finnish team!!!
Results from Bouldering Masters 2004
Those who took part into Bouldering Masters 2004 had certainly a good and joyful training day. The routesetters had put up 76 routes on the profiles of Kiipeilykeskus. Amount of participants was this year 86, slightly more than last year. With 6 hours climbing time, it was ensured that everyone had plenty of time to give all avaliable effort and even more.
In womens category the strongest one was Eevi Jaakkola with 316 points, second was Eerika Pawli (251 points) and third Roosa Huhtikorpi (248 points). In men, the highest score was collected by Nalle Hukkataival, who climbed 73 routes and collected 854 of the total 920 points. Second was Toni Ruokonen (765 points) and third Matti Joensuu (713 points). Some top candidates were prepairing for the Scandinavian Championships next weekend, so they climbed only few routes. This can clearly be seen on the results list.
The routes and arrangements were good and atmosphere relaxed but energetic. In a case you missed the event, you should seriously concider participating next year!
Thanks to Teemu Tapaninen for the results.
Results from Lappicup 2004
Lappicup 2004 was arranged last weekend by RVK (Rovaniemi Climbing Club) at Rovaniemi. Here's a report by Aleksi Kankainen (in Finnish):
"Kiipeilyn jokavuotinen Lappicup kisattiin jälleen 7.2. Rovaniemellä. Tänä vuonna panokset olivat kovat, kisattiinhan samassa yhteydessä paitsi Lapin kiipeilyherruudesta, myös Suomi- ja Pohjois-Suomi-cupin pisteistä. Laajentunut tapahtuma keräsikin ennätysosanoton; kaikkiaan 25 vääntäjää (21 miehissä ja 4 naisissa) saapui paikalle. Ennätyksellistä oli myös kisan kova taso ja junioriosallistujien määrä.
Aikaisemmilta vuosilta tuttu konsepti: boulder-karsinta ja liidifinaalit osoittautui taas oikeaksi ratkaisuksi. Kolmen tunnin karsintojen aikana kaikki saivat vääntää riittävästi ja kova-kuntoisimmat pääsivät illan megatapahtumaan Lapin liikuntakeskukseen yli satapäisen yleisömeren eteen näyttämäään "kissamaisia otteita", kuten paikallinen media kiipeilyä kuvasi... Jani Lunnaksen loihtimilla reiteillä miesten sarjan ykköseksi superfinaalin kautta taiteili Olli-Petteri Manni. Kuutti Huhtikorpi tarjosi hyvän vastuksen vieden kisan yleisöystävällisesti superfinaaliin kaksinkamppailuksi. Naisissa Roosa Huhtikorpi oli suvereeni voittaja. Yhteistyökumppanit, kisailijat ja yleisö olivat tapahtumaan tyytyväisiä, joten eiköhän tämä kannusta järjestämään tapahtuman myös ensi vuonna."
Thanks to Aleksi for the text and results and Mikael Leppä for the photos! Follow this link for detailed results.
Marko Kauko on Stu's roof
Marko Kauko climbed "Stu's roof" 8a at Almscliff Yorkshire. Picture and more at Projekti's website.
Results from Kinkkuboulder 2003
The annual Kinkkuboulder (Ham-boulder) competition was a success. Arrangements, routes and prices were excellent and the amount of registered competitors was record braking: 174 in total!!
This year the winner of the ham was Olli Manni, who managed to climb 41 of the 44 qualification routes and collected 457 qualification points. The best in men's finals was however Nalle Hukkataival with extremely strong looking style. The traditional winner Sampo Kiesiläinen placed third after Miika Hakari.
The finals in womens category was very even between Roosa Huhtikorpi and Heini Merikallio. In the end Roosa took the first position with 2 point margin and convincing qualification performance.
The most popular category was 'Toppahousut' with 93 participants. Highest qualification points were collected by Vesa Salonen who placed third in the finals. The winner was young Ossi Päivänsäde and second Tapio Mustakoski. In the category of 'Sunnuntaikiipeilijät' the best score was collected by Mika Arola.
BTW: Olli Manni revealed that the secret for his good bouldering condition is actually not bouldering at all! Insted, Olli has done a lots of trad climbing which seems to give exceptionally good physique also for bouldering competitions.
Thanks to the organizers and congratulations to Olli and other winners!!! Follow this link for the results.
Results from world cup, Edinburg
Tomi Nytorp participated world cup bouldering competition at Edinburg last weekend (4.-7.12.03). Tomi climbed well but barely missed the finals placing 18th. Good effort nevertheless! Another result worth mentioning is Tero Järvinen's second position in Total boulder contest recently at Stockholm.
Results from Junior Scandinavian Championships
Junior Scandinavian Championships in difficulty was competed at Tromsø 8.-9.11. The competition was a success for the Finns!
In girls 88-89 category Roosa Huhtikorpi took the gold medal and Heini Merikallio was third. In 86-87 category Eevi Jaakkola was second after Malin Fokestad from Norway. On the subject of boys, Finland had participants only in category of 86-87 born competitors. Kuutti Huhtikorpi took the gold medal, Niko Pakalen was fourth and Markus Fogelholm eighth.
Congratulations to all participants and especially to Huhtikorpi family! For more info, surf to Norges Klatreforbund. BTW, an older competition result that sould be mentioned: Roosa Huhtikorpi came 17th (of 45 participants) in Youth World Championships at Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria 19.-21.9. Well done!
Anton in Fontainebleau
Camu reports that after Switzerland Anton, Anssi and Janina headed to Fontainebleau where Anton did for example "la Balance Sans" (8a), "Antithèse" (7c+, 3rd try), "Infidèle" (7b or 7c+, 3rd try), "la Bérézina" (7c) and some 7b flashes. Nice going for the first days!!
Juha Saatsi bouldering hard
After a summer of roped climbing Juha Saatsi managed to climb "Jason's roof" (8a+) at Crookrise, Yorkshire. The big roof contains about 15 moves and was first done by Jason Myers in 1996. The problem is seldom repeated with 4-5 known ascents. Juha is not unfamiliar with hard bouldering, having done many problems in 8a range mostly in Yorkshire. According to Juha the problem was certainly one of the hardest he has done. Some pictures of Crookrise can be found at Yorkshiregrit.com. Congratulations!
New Finnish climbing DVD coming soon!
Torsti Laine reports:
"In August 2003 new bouldering video was shot at Åland. Climbers include Ben Moon (UK), Erik Massih (SWE), Stefan Wolf (SWE), Tomi Nytorp (FIN), Olli Manni (FIN), Tomas Johansson (FIN, Åland) and many others. Trailer (coming this month) and more information is available at www.aclimbingfilm.com and full DVD with extras is ready in December."
PS. take a look at the cover of Climber, November issue...
Hobbits in Switzerland
Janina Käyhkö, Anton Johansson and Anssi Venho are currently bouldering somewhere in Switzerland. Anton has ticked for example "Du cote de Seshuan" 8a, "Super Nova" 8a "Serre Moi Fort" 8a+ and "Massive Attack" 8b. Also Anssi did "Du cote de Seshuan". Little more to read in Finnish at Camu. Let's hope for good conditions for the remaining time!
Teemu sent 'Adlon'
Last Saturday Teemu Tapaninen climbed crimpy and technical 'Adlon' (8a) at Nummi cliff.
Expat Finn living in Bradford Marko Kauko seems to be in good shape. Last weekend Marko did two hard boulderproblems in Yorkshire and Peak. At Almscliff he did a V11 linkup problem on the Keel boulder with about 20 moves and ending by doing "The Keel" harder original version. At Burbage North he climbed "Blind Drunk" which is B12 or according to Marko something between Font 7c and 8a. Nice work Marko!
In Jyväskylä Mika Hinkkanen did the fifth ascent of sloping dreamproblem "Unelma" 7c at 28.7.
Martin set his 'Tesis'
Today, Martin Nugent managed to climb his longstanding project at Klöverberget, Siuntio. The new route is called 'Tesis' and it's by no doubt the hardest line at the cliff as the grade is around 8a+ or 8b.
The line situates on the smooth part of the main face between 'Tres Chic' and 'Vitamin M' and it was bolted several years ago when free climbing in Klöverberget started. Characteristically it offers extremely technical and hard climbing on tiny holds. There are two ways to do the crux depending on if the climber is short or tall. Martin has named the sequences respectively as 'Syntesis' and 'Antitesis'. Martin himself climbed the more difficult super-version 'Syntesis', as the key hold was a bit too far for him to reach. Big congratulations to Martin!!!
News from Liljendal and Klöverberget
Tomi Nytorp has established two hard traverses in Liljendal bouldering area. Both of these situates on the 'Misty' boulder. The first one, 'Elonkorjuu' starts about two meters left from 'Ghettoman corner', continues left through the slopy horizontal corner and goes up 'Karoshi' 7a (wrongly named 'Kakka.net' in the topo). The second one 'Punainen Planeetta' begins from the starting holds of 'Sweet Smoke'. It continues right through the crux of 'Back in Business' 7b to further right and ends up topping 'Misty' 7a+. Tomi suggests grade 7c+ for both traverses.
Roped news: about a week ago Jani Lunnas climbed 'Vacuum' 8a during his visit to Klöverberget!
Jyrki "Jykä" Kauko and Esko "l'Esko" Hautanen spent the last couple of weeks bouldering in Switzerland. According to the guys scenery and bouldering were excellent. Besides having fun in the woods Jyrki also climbed some hard problems including "Octopussy" (8a, some say 8a+), "Lolo Ferrari" (7c) and "Dopeshow" (7b+) in the Magic Woods and some 7c and "Sprung Tarzan" (7b+/7c) in Chironico. In Cresciano he sent two 7c's and in Sustenpass one 7c+. Nice work Jykä!
Atte Piiroinen ticks 'Sheriffi' (8a)
Yesterday Atte Piiroinen showed again his strong form by making a smooth and convincing ascent to "Sheriffi" (8a) at Nummi cliff! Atte has lately been regularly on the spot as this was his third route at this level in a short period of time. Rumours tell us that this "Fat free ticking machine" has been working on "El Toro" (8a+) at Klöverberget. Hopefully there will be something left for the next season... Good work!!!
Hard ascents at Niemisel & Klöverberget
News from the North. Jani Lehtola from Oulu made yesterday third Finnish ascent to 'Diablo' (8a+) at Niemisel. Thanks to Jarmo Annunen for these news! In Southern-Finland, Atte Piiroinen has continued ticking the local testpieces. Shortly after sending 'Adlon' (8a), he climbed 'Shake My Tree' (7c+) also at Nummi and 'Vacuum' (8a) at Klöverberget.
Sami Haapakoski and Jani Lunnas climbed 'Diablo' (8a+) at Niemisel
We've heard that Sami Haapakoski and Jani Lunnas have climbed 'Diablo' (8a+), one of the testpieces at the huge MTV wall in Niemisel, Sweden. The route is about 22 meters high and according to Jani, it starts with juggy 6c climbing for about four bolts. This easier section is followed by a crux and a hard dyno at top section. Both Sami's and Jani's ascents were done at around 2 AM in the sparkle of midnight sun.
The other ascensionist, Sami Haapakoski has been climbing about 2 and a half years. We'll probably hear about this young talent later on. The ascent was reported also in Borrbult.nu. Congratulations to Sami!
Nummi & Klöverberget action
Today Atte Piiroinen climbed crimpy and technical 'Adlon' (8a) at Nummi in less than optimal conditions. Thermometer showed decent 29°C and air humidity about 100%. Now, who said this route is somehow weather dependent?? Other ascents worth mentioning is Eerika Pawli's redpoint to 'Tres Chic' (7c) last week at Klöverberget, Siuntio.
Btw, Klöverberget has got an excellent new route between 'Al Qaida' and 'Superhero'. The new line is called 'Atlantis' and it was established by always diligent route setter Peter Hammer. The estimated grade is around 7a.
Jussi Remonen in good shape
Jussi Remonen seems to be in good shape, again. Last week he put up probably the hardest moves in Jyväskylä, "Marvin" at Keljonkangas. More in Finnish here: Projekti.
More Chamonix results
World Championships in difficulty (on-sight) has been completed in Chamonix. The final positions of the Finnish participants were as follows: Janina Käyhkö, 48th in women, Sampo Kiesiläinen 55th and Tomi Nytorp 61st in men. For more details, visit Digitalrock.
Boulder Champs in Chamonix
World Championships in bouldering were competed last Wednesday and Thursday at Chamonix. Our Tomi Nytorp climbed extremely well in hard company positioning to 20th place! The winner was Christian Core from Italy and second Jerome Meyer, France. Total amount of participants was 76. More information from Digitalrock.
The action in Chamonix will continue, as the World Championships in difficulty (on-sight) are competed today and tomorrow. The Finnish participants are Tomi, Sampo Kiesiläinen and Janina Käyhkö. Best luck for all the Finns!
The Finnish bouldering movie Northern Light now available
Finally it is here. The long awaited boudering movie is now available from climbing shops in Finland (Camu & Mountain Shop; Summit later this week) or directly from the creators via email: email@example.com. Online ordering from Northern Light website will be available in a couple of days. Over 70 minutes of pure pleasure!
Tomi on-sights 'Shake My Tree'!
Today made Tomi Nytorp Finnish climbing history by on-sighting 'Shake My Tree' (7c+) at Nummi! This is undoubtedly the hardest on-sight in Finland. The route is steep and pumpy and it requires also jamming skills. Brilliant effort!!! Tomi has been active also on hard natural routes as he made a clean ascent to 'Päiväuni' (7c+) at the beginning of June. This mighty line situates on the North side of Pärkänvuori (Uusikaupunki) and was opened by Olli Manni on August 2001.
Selected bouldering news
Heko Pöyry is in good shape at the moment. Last week he cruised "Hottentotti" (8a) and is now working sitdown start for the problem. At the weekend trip to Vaasa, Heko opened some new hard problems. In Vaxlax he made the first ascent of "Piss Easy" (7c/7c+) and next day "Iisakin Kirkko" (7c/7c+). The latter situates at Mikroautorata and is in fact one of the oldest projects in Vaasa. Heko also flashed "Kultakala" (7c) and Jari Pöllänen did the problem as well.
Other recent ascents to mention: Ville Kurru repeated "Supermartikainen" (7c/7c+) in Geta and Jarkko Kyllönen climbed "Masurkka" (7c) in Taivaskallio. Thanks to Jari Pöllänen for these news.
Niko does 'Matador'
16 years old Niko Pakalen, known also for his strong presentations in bouldering walls, doesn't get confused with harness and rope either. Last Friday he made a successful attempt to "Matador" (8a) at Falkberget and became possibly the youngest Finnish climber to achieve this grade. Earlier Niko has managed to flash "Kalinka" (7b) as well as flash or on-sight most of the easier routes at Falkberget. Way to go!
Kirsi does 7b in Yorkshire
Kirsi Hiironen has climbed a nameless V8/7b slab in Crookrise (Yorkshire). This is certainly one of the hardest boulderproblems done by a Finnish woman. Nice work Kikka! Source Projekti.
New routes at Falkberget, Kirkkonummi
Peter Hammer has been active in Falkberget, Kirkkonummi. During April he established three new routes: "Sledgehammer" 6b+, "Freestyler" 7b and "Jump" 7b+. The first one starts from the right side of "Roadrunner" and goes up to top of the cliff. As 27-28 meters high, the line is the highest one in the cliff. The route is easy to spot as it has chemical bolts. "Jump" starts from the half way ledge between "Echinaforce" and "Charlatan" and continues to right side of "Charlatan" and over the roof to top. "Freestyler" is a variation where you first climb the start of "Jump" and then the end of "Charlatan". The line is continuous and even for the grade so you need some stamina! The grades are only suggestions by the route setter. Thanks to Peter for the information!
Back to old school
Mr. Nugent has been active by opening some highball problems in the Capital
area. At Haaga, he did "Tigris" 7a, which contains 4-5 hard moves on little
edges before topping out. Martin also managed to climb the old project in
Taivaskallio left from "Valaskala". The route´s crux is high above the ground
and is very technical climbing on small crimpers. He named the route
"Anabasis" 7b+/7c (read 7c) and says that it´s as hard as Matahari 7c. Thanks to Jari Pöllänen for the news!
Scandinavian Championships 2003
Scandinavian Championships in difficulty was competed during the past weekend at Oslo. The winners were Peter Bosma and Ingela Nilsson from Sweden. Best Finns were Tomi Nytorp and Janina Käyhkö, who both placed third. Silver medals went to Said Belhaj (SWE) and Linn-Karin Stendahl (NOR). Other interesting placings: Sampo Kiesiläinen 5th and Olli-Pekka Manni 13th. In women, Eerika Pawli placed 11th. More info from the pages of Norvegian Climbing Association. Congrats to our bronze medalists!
Easter action in the Åland Islands
Large group of Finns visited the Åland Islands during Easter and took all the advantage of the excellent bouldering weather:
"Swiss Roof" 8a was quickly repeated by Anton Johansson, Markku Tawast, Jyrki Kauko and Jari Pöllänen. All the climbers felt that grade 7b+ would be more exact. Another steep line "Make´s Roof" 7b+ was repeated by Anton, Markku Makkonen and Jyrki. Both Anton and Jari flashed "Elf" 7a+.
Anton made several hard first ascents including "Mellon" 7b, a direct start of "Elf". The route was repeated by Jari and Jarkko Kyllönen. Many thanks for the line's spotter Jyrki for cleaning the problem:-) Anton also made the 1st ascent of "Paskiainen" 7b+/7c and "Orange". He refused to grade "Orange" but it's quite scary anyway...
Jyrki Kauko, Jari Pöllänen and Anton Johansson repeated "Geta Life" Fb7c. Markku Tawast made the 1st ascent of "Supermartikainen" 7c/7c+. This superb line was repeated by Anton, Markku Makkonen, Jyrki and Jari.
Anton Johansson made the 1st ascent of "Hihipingviini" 7c and Jyrki Kauko flashed "Bubo Bubo" 7a+.
One old boulder project less
Tomi Nytorp succeeded in climbing one of the really old projects in Helsinki. The problem is at Meilahti cliff right from "Kusiainen". Read Antons nice story about the 1st ascent of 'Kasparov' here (in Finnish).
Nalle in Turku.
Last friday Nalle Hukkataival continued to show his good form on the boulders of Turku. At Kärsämäki he made repeats to "Rumpman" 7c and "Kiikku" 7b (flash). At Luolavuori he repeated "Mossman" 7b and "Matahari" 7c. Nice work!
Results from the Finnish Masters in Speed Climbing
Nokia Vertical Adventure -happening was arranged in Helsinki at the Itäkeskus shopping mall right next to the notorius east side ghetto of Kontula. The happening lasted whole week with public climbing etc. The week ended with first ever(?) Finnish Masters in Speed Climbing. Prices were good, brand new mobile phones and a trip to Kalymnos for two! Young gun Roosa Huhtikorpi was the busiest female around with Janina Käyhkö at the 2nd place. Anton Johansson took the Kalymnos trip in the mens series. Whole results added to our competition archive. Congrats to the winners! Check out a videoclip which shows Antons nice style (we have no knowledge of who made the clip). Lots of pics you can find via this link.
Results from the Nordic Champs in bouldering
The Millet Boulder Nordic Championships was held in Klondyke Wall at Kerava. See the official NM site for pictures and complete results here (mens final results still yet to come). In women the first place went to Ingela Nilsson (SWE), 2nd was Christina Rivett (DK), 3rd Angelica Lind (SWE). Janina Käyhkö (FIN) finished 4th. In men Tomi Nytorp (FIN) took the first place, Stefan Rasmussen (SWE) 2nd and Said Belhaj (SWE) 3rd. Congratulations to everybody! Results also added to Slouppi competition archive. And lots more pics here.
Two hard problems repeated in Helsinki.
Taivaskallio, Helsinki. Last week Nalle Hukkataival made the third repeat of "Bart Simpson" (7b). He also climbed the unrepeated and painful "Masurkka"! Henkka Suihkonen put up "Masurkka" about 5 years ago and it has been tried by quite a many strong people. Nalle didn't give much comment on the grade which has been thought to be something around 7b+ and 7c. Congrats to Nalle!
Bouldering Masters results
The Bouldering Masters 2003 was held in Tapanila's newish climbing centre. The fun event had about 60 problems which were mainly vertical and tricky. 75 climbers competed indoors when it was one of the first really good days to climb outside in Helsinki! Roosa Huhtikorpi won the ladies series. In the mens series Tomi Nytorp and Nalle Hukkataival got the same amount of points so it went to a superfinal, the Finnish way... Fat-o-meter. The one who is the fattest wins. Nalle came first with mind blowing 5.1% body fat. Tomi had to settle for second position with 4.9%. See complete results.
Yorkshire bouldering news.
After moving to Yorkshire a couple of months ago Marko Kauko has done some of the areas classic problems together with his visiting younger brother Jykä. The highlights being Jykä's 2nd try ascent to Matt's roof 7c+ and Marko's ascents to Keel 7c, Sewer ratt connection 7c and Matt's roof! Nice, hooray, keep it going and yeah! For more specific ticks check out Projekti's website.
Annual Kinkkuboulder competition was arranged at Klondyke Wall (Kerava) last Saturday 14.12.2002. The competition was a huge success what comes to the amount of participants (135), arrangements, quality of routes and atmosphere! The women's comp was dominated by Janina Käyhkö. The men's competition looked more dramatic with Sampo, Anton and Ilkka quite close in qualifications. Sadly Anton got high fever after qualifications and didn't climb in the finals. Sampo was the clear winner this time. See results page for complete results.
Results from Junior Scandinavian Championships
Junior Scandinavian Championships event took place in Kiipeilykeskus during the weekend. You'll find the results of all age groups by following this link. Thanks to Pia Pylvänäinen for these results.
Janina fourth in Kranj
European Youth Cup competition in difficulty was arranged last weekend in Kranj, Slovenia. Janina Käyhkö took fourth position at her age group and after this event, she is ranked fourth in the cup!
NM bouldering video link
Check out http://www.highsport.se/snf/ for nice videos from the Nordic Masters in Bouldering. Almost 20 mins of stuff! Both womens & mens finals.
Bakke and Mobråten new Scandinavian champions!
Last round of the Scandinavian Championships (difficulty) were competed today at Kiipeilykeskus in Helsinki. After the semi-finals it seemed that the winners of the last year, Peter Bosma and Ingela Nilsson would dominate also this year. Well, the routes were technical, reachy and hard to read and the final order was something different...
In women, Marianne Bakke from Norway climbed highest with style. Second was Eli Skeid, also from Norway. Janina Käyhkö was third by a slip of the right foot. Only one man passed the tricky crux over the mid-height of the mens finals route, young Martin Mobråten from Norway. Peter Bosma (SWE) came second and our Tomi Nytorp was third. All detailed results can be found from the results page. Videos (hopefully) soon to be loaded. Congratulations to the winners!
Scandinavian Championships, qualifiers
After exciting quarter finals, three men and one woman from the Finnish team got through to the finals. The only top-outs were shown by the 2001 champions, Peter Bosma and Ingela Nilsson. Sunday's finalists are:
1. Peter Bosma, SWE 2. Said Belhaj, SWE 3. Martin Mobråten, NOR 4. Magnus Högsrtröm, SWE 5. Ilkka Westling, FIN 6. Martin Nugent, FIN 7. Claus Vedel Jensen, DEN 8. Tomi Nytorp, FIN
1. Ingela Nilsson, SWE 2. Julia Bergklint, SWE 3. Marianne Bakke, NOR 4. Janina Käyhkö, FIN 5. Malin Folkestad, NOR 6. Eli Skeid, NOR 7. Stine Østergaard, DEN 8. Fiona Fitzpatrick, SWE 9. Jenny Förander, SWE
Forthcoming Scandinavian Champs & competitors
Less than a week and the waited event, Scandinavian Championships in difficulty, will start! This far 46 participant have registered. There are many hot contenders participating and here are some names to mention:
Tomi Nytorp Olli-Pekka Manni Sampo Kiesiläinen Ilkka Westling
Peter Bosma Said Belhaj Bosse Sättare
Pål-Benum Reiten Martin Mobråten
Janina Käyhkö Eerika Pawli
Ingela Nilsson Julia Bergklint Jenny Förander
Malin Folkestad Eli Skeid
We wish luck for all the contenders! Tickets to the event and night party are now on sale. See the official SC page for more info. Slouppi.net will keep ears open and report about the event. Stay tuned!
Experience the Millet Open-Sportclimbing Scandinavian championships and the NIGHT PARTY 2.-3.11.02
Hopefully this is not news for you. If it is, check more information from official page or competitions-selection from bottom of front page. However the point is: BE THERE!
New contender as the hardest boulder problem!
Last week Anton Johansson had a fantastic climbing day. First, he repeated ´Hottentotti´ (8a) and then did a first ascent of ´Koopa´ (8a/8a+), which is probably the hardest boulder problem in Finland. The problem is pure 1,5m all-out dyno on the 50 degrees overhanging wall. Don´t use your height as an excuse, if you can´t do the problem. That´s the one thing that Anton doesn´t have as an advantage...
Janina fifth in Youth World Championships 2002
Youth World Championchips in difficulty was arranged last weekend (27.-29.9.) at Canteleu, France. The competition was participated by two Finns, Janina Käyhkö and Kuutti Huhtikorpi. Janina performed excellently qualifying to finals and placing fifth in overall results!! Kuutti competed in Youth B class, qualified nicely to semifinals and placed 27th.
Tomi and Hottentotti
Report from reliable source tells us that Tomi Nytorp did yesterday a new boulder problem ´Hottentotti´ 8a. The problem overhangs nearly 50 degrees and contains some very dynamic moves on slopers and medium-sized holds. It is definitely one of the hardest boulder problems in Finland and the hardest in the Capital area.
Some hard repeats...
Yesterday Jari Pöllänen climbed 'Matador' 8a at Falkberget. This was at least second repeat this year as Teemu Tapaninen did the line on August. BTW Teemu has this far climbed every single route at Falkberget.
Hardest traverse in Finland!
Tomi Nytorp hits again! This time at secret spot, where he established 'Eskimo', the hardest traverse ever seen in Finland. This line has around 37 moves starting with '72 markkaa' (7b+) crux move, linking a traverse around 20 moves long and finally topping out at 'Usual Suspect' (7c+). Tomi suggests grade 8a+ which is probably not over estimated...
Tomi Nytorp had quite a good weekend. On Saturday he visited Nummi where he redpointed 'Sheriffi' 8a on second go and on-sighted 'Tornado' 7b+. After this he cooled down at Rokokallio boulders where he also made a new route 'Mun Katto' 7c. On Sunday he visited Klöverberget at Siuntio and on-sighted several routes including 'Imshullah Rollum' 7c. Not bad...!
Double victory to Finland in the bouldering NC
Sampo Kiesiläinen (1.) & Ilkka Westling (2.) took double victory to Finland in the Nordic Championships in bouldering, which is nice. In women Janina Käyhkö came 6th, Eija Joensuu 10th and Helena Siipi 12th. Congratulations! Small article & pics at 8a.nu (in Swedish).
Hard onsights by Tomi Nytorp
During his 3 weeks trip to southern France, Tomi Nytorp did some hard climbing at Ceuse and Verdon. From the three 8a's he tried, he managed to on-sight two! The routes were 'Carte Blanche' (originally 8a+) and 'L'Atome de Savoie'. The first one is an old classic at Demi Lune and the second one is at Cascade sector. Tomi also managed to onsight the two new 7c+'s at Cascade. At Verdon Tomi did 'Take It' 8a on second go.
EM Chamonix 2002
European Championships of climbing were competed during the weekend at Chamonix. The event was participated by two Finns, Tomi Nytorp and Janina Käyhkö. Tomi's position was 27th after the quarter finals and unfortunately he was the first to drop out from semis with extremely small margin. In women, Janina topped the first route and finished 21st at the semi-finals! Both performances were excellent and both climbers left several tough names behind.
Tomi also took part in bouldering event and finished 29th. Total amount of participants in the bouldering event was 51.
Some Nummi action
Despite the rainy weather in the capital area and slippery conditions at Nummi, Jari 'Kukonpoika' Pöllänen took his chances by repeating one of the testpieces, 'Sheriffi' (8a) yesterday. Well done!
One of the 'old' hard boulderproblems near Jyväskylä repeated.
Most people don't even know the existence of these hard problems in Suolahti near Jyväskylä. The problems were put up by Jussi Remonen & Juha Saatsi during mid/end of the nineties. At that time they were certainly among the hardest in Finland, from 7b to 7c+. Some of them are still unrepeated. On saturday Jyrki Kauko managed to do the 3rd ascent of 'Kokovartaloerektio' 7c.
Altough the mosquitoes have arrived to Vaasa some people still search for new blocks. Near the Magic Mushroom forest some nice big boulders got first ascents by Olli Pyykonen, Make Tawast & Co.
Jyrki Kauko opened superb 'Herkules'
Last week Jyrki Kauko managed to climb one of Jyväskyläs old projects. The boulderproblem contains sustained big moves through the whole 6-7 meters. 'The best line I've ever done!', said Jykä afterwards. This problem remains unrepeated like many of Jyväskyläs hard ones. You can find 'Herkules' 7b+/7c at the 'Olohuone' boulders. For topo see Projekti's website.
Rami sent "El Toro"
Roped news from Klöverberget, Siuntio. On sunday Rami Haakana did the 3rd ascent of 'El Toro' (8a+).
El Toro repeated
Yesterday Marko Wallin made the first repeat of 'El Toro' 8a+ with his typical smooth style at Klöverberget, Siuntio. This beautiful line was established on August 2001 by Henrik Suihkonen.
Last Friday returned a group of four Finnish climbers from their 3 weeks invasion to Yosemite. The group consisted of two pairs of experienced climbers: Marko Wallin + Juha Saatsi and Nico Backström + Henrik Suihkonen. Their initial target was to free pitches of 'Freerider' as far as possible. 'Freerider' is about 1 km high route at El Cap spire consisting of about 35 pitches and is graded 5.13a. The route was established few years ago by Huber brothers.
Unfortunately, the first week was very rainy so the group headed to Joshua Tree for bouldering and one pitch cracks. After the first week, they returned to Yosemite and started their work in a sunny weather. Both teams managed to free the first 20 pitches when they came up to several wet pitches which forced them to change to aid climbing. According to Marko some pitches could practically be described as waterfalls. Up at the headwall, time was running out so the groups took the 'Salathe' variation straight up. All in all the climbing took five days with four overnight stops at the wall. Freeing all the pitches was not a realistic target in the first place but the trip was certainly very rewarding, says Marko. Pictures (hopefully...) to come!
Spring in Fontainebleau
From the middle of February to the end of March Fontainebleau had probably the biggest Finnish representation in history, from Henkka Suihkonen whos last time in Bleau was in the 80's to the first-timers. Here's a selection of the finest ascents. Tomi Nytorp
'Sale Gosse' 7c (Roche aux Sabots),
'Eclipse' 7c (Cul de chien), 'Si c'est un homme' 8a (Rocher Canon), 'Big Boss' 7c (Cuvier Rempart), 'la Bérésina' 7c (Bas Cuvier). Traverses: 'Voltane' 7c+ (Franchard Sablons), 'Iceberg' 7c+ (Franchard Isatis), 'Berezina-Carnage combo' 7c+ (Bas Cuvier), 'Double Croche' 7c+ (Rocher St Germain),
'les Yeux plus Gros que le Ventre' 7c+ (Rocher St Germain),'Traversée du surplomb' 7c+ (Vallée de la Mée). All in all Tomi did 46 problems above 7a in three weeks. Markku Tawast
'L'Arrache coeur' 7c (Franchard Isatis),
'Mégawatt' 7c (Franchard Isatis), 'L'air de rien' 7c (Franchard Meyer), 7b+ flash, first ascent of Le Knaus 6c+ (Cuvier Rempart) Ville Kurru
First ascent of 'Le Coesse' 7b (Cuvier Rempart) Henri Pöyry
'l`Aérodynamite' 7c (Bas Cuvier), 'la Bérésina' 7c (Bas Cuvier),'Mégawatt' 7c (Franchard Isatis) Jussi Remonen
'Sur-Prises' 7b+ (Franchard Isatis), 'l`Aérodynamite' 7c (Bas Cuvier) Marko Kauko
'Envie d`Ailes' 7c (Elephant), 'l`Ange Naïf' 7c+ (95.2.), 'la Memel' 7b (Franchard Isatis) Henrik Suihkonen
'l`Ange Naïf' 7c+ (95.2.),
'Angle Incarnée' 7b (Bas Cuvier) Jyrki Kauko
'Iceberg exit sitstart version' 7b+/7c (Franchard Isatis), 'Aeroflowne' 7b (flash),'la Memel' 7b (Franchard Isatis) Sampo Kiesiläinen
'l`Aérodynamite' 7c and 'Pince-mi, Pince Moi' 7b+ (Bas Cuvier)
Kivikko promotion: Place worth of visiting.
While big boys do big tricks with big noise, Anssi Venho gave proof that "I scream Icecream" 7c is repeatable without needless weeping or screaming. So far this funky puzzle made by Anton Johansson is repeated twice by Tomi Nytorp & Anssi. Go there and try it.
Rush hour at the Cafe de Paris in Vaasa
Make Tawast managed to climb a longstanding project at Mikroautorata in Vaasa calling it "Pilven reunalla" 7c+ (see photo). Some new problems were brushed and climbed at the new place called Vaxlax, highlights being "Kanaaliantti" 7a+ (Make Tawast), "Laupias marokkolainen" 7a:ish (Olli Pyykönen & MT) and a superb slab brushed and climbed by Olli. Besides climbing the group of 16 bouldering enthusiasts from Helsinki got to see some nice northern lights and the not-so-happy new salesgirl at Cafe de Paris. The cafe is getting too small for us...
Complete results from Finnish Masters Bouldering
Results from Finnish Masters Bouldering 2002
Men 1st Tomi Nytorp 2nd Juha Saatsi 3rd Ilkka Westling
Women 1st Janina Käyhkö 2nd Heleena Siipi 3rd Minna Salomaa
Today Tomi Nytorp managed to climb 'Si c'est un Homme', 8a in Rocher Canon, Fontainebleau. This sitstart problem is 8a without using the pillar for your foot, otherwise 7b+. Slouppi.net will soon report more about Tomi's efforts at Fontainebleau. Stay tuned...
Rope action at Rodellar
During his recent trip to Rodellar, Spain, Rami Haakana managed to flash 'Maroskum', a
mighty 7c+ at sector 'Gran Boveda'. This line is 25m high and overhangs about 7m.
Style of climbing is versatile consisting of tufas, lists an pockets.
Results from Finnish Masters -ice climbing, Oulu.
Marko Wallin took 1st place in Finnish Masters Ice/difficulty competition during last weekend.
Finnish master on "fast ice" is Nico Backström.
Make Tawast had a nice day at Franchard Isatis. One 7b flash, then another 7b then some 7c. He also managed the classic highball "L'arrache Cœur" (7c) on his 2nd try.
Then something to the training fanatics among you... try resting. Jussi Remonen did "Sur-Prises" 7b+ at Isatis after 6 months off from climbing.
The new Climbing Center is rising at Tapanila!
During a long winter time, bouldering indoors has been the main form of training. Turku has it's mighty Kiipeilypalatsi and some enthusiastic ropers have even been visiting Klätterverket at Stockholm. Fun but time-consuming and cumbersome... Those seeking for endurance, traversing has been the only option because the fact is that at the capital area there has not been really good facilities to train with rope.
For the ropers at any level, Klätterverket is unquestionably a 'paradise' with it's 1000 m² of wall and almost double height compared to the present walls of Tapanilan Erä. But what would you say if we had something similar or even better!? Yes, our prayers have been heard and there is now rising something quite special at Tapanila...
Specifications of the Tapanilan Erä's new climbing center are impressive. The project manager Marko Virtanen tells that wall area will be around 1850 m² distributed between 12 and 16 m high spaces. The wall will be constructed from several kinds of form panels by Entre Prises. At the moment, part of the walls have been built and the estimated time of completion is at the end of May.
Understandably the new building is getting interest among the climbers and at this point Marko would like to emphasize certain issue. As there are heavy blocks going up and down, the construction site is a very dangerous place to be at the moment and it's therefore not a good idea to visit the place until everything is ready for action. Be patient!
However, we impatiently encourage the building team to haste with those panels... More information about progression can be found from web pages dedicated for the new wall. Read more.
Small troubles with making copies of
Crux-the-movie estimated landing time moved to week 7 (11-15.2.02). more...
Ville Kurru visited El Escorial in Spain.
Ville Kurru visited snowy El Escorial in Spain. At least one 7c dynoproblem was dry. He did it on his second attempt. Thanks to Tommy Vänskä for these news.
Huge participation in the Kinkkuboulder event!
Congrats to Ilkka Westling, Vesku Salonen & Roosa Huhtikorpi for winning the annual Kinkkuboulder -competition in Kerava! See results
The uncertainties concerning the Koivusaari boulder in Helsinki are over.
The uncertainties concerning the Koivusaari boulder in Helsinki are over. The southern strip of Koivusaari is now protected and the boulder will be saved. The planned apartment buildings will however change the nearby area of this idyllic spot if and when they will be build somewhere in the future. Thanks to Jukka for submitting these very good news!
"- Koivusaaren eteläosassa oleva rantaniitty on merkitty suojelualueeksi ja asumiseen tarkoitettua aluetta on supistettu.-" Source