Showing old news from RCiF and Pulteri
Maybe not any more for this season but certainly for next spring there are now four new and juicy lines at Falkberget. These routes situate at totally new sector about hundred meters right from the main cliff. The route setter Peter Hammer describes the new lines as follows. "Starting from left to right, the first line is 'Big Lupu' (6c). The lower part offers interesting variety of holds, upper part is slabby and nice. Longer quickdraws for the first three bolts are recommended for smooth rope passage. Next line 'Energiaa' (7a) is sustained and pumpy and it's easy to miss the fifth bolt at left. Next one is the arete line called 'Coctail Bar' (6b+/6c). The most right one is 'Karaokekuningas' (6b+/6c) which is versatile and nice route. The line continues straight up to the achor from the last bolt and do not try to clip the anchor too early or you might pump out before the top". Peter also says that the poor quality of the rock at the very low part of the routes has led to compromises in bolting so be awake when clipping the first bolts.
Last friday Henri Pöyry climbed O-P Manni's "Superfreak" 7c at Kärsämäki, Turku. Thanks to Olli Pyykönen for reporting.
Marko & Jykä Kauko made the 2nd and 3rd ascents to "Pub Anton" 7b+ at 28.7. Jyväskylä. Good job! More in Finnish at Projekti's site.
Last saturday Jussi Remonen made the 3rd ascent of "Sirkus" 7c at the Pet Sematary, Vaasa (see old updates for photo). Actually he made the 3rd, 4th and 5th too, climbing it three times in a row! I believe he liked the problem...
Added 25.10. Besides that Jussi flashed "Bosoni" 7a but when the flash looked easy Jussi felt it didn't go so nicely and he did it again. "Bosoni" has a very tricky first move that rarely gets done first time and it certainly isn't an easy 7a. Next problem Jussi did was "Überhänk" 7b. Jykä Kauko climbed at least "Himmel" 6c+, "Bosoni" and "Big gay Al" 6c+ and was very close to being the fourth guy to manage "Sirkus" falling from the top "jug" more than one time. Jykä's brother Marko had a broken middle finger so he concentrated on "hanging around" (to your webmasters knowledge Marko and Jykä are the only Finns who's climbed "l`Aérodynamite" 7b+/7c in Fontainebleau, see Projekti's site). Other people present were Tomi Guttorm, Sami Savela and Sami Hanhikoski (to whom goes the thanks for these news!).
New bouldering area in Jyväskylä called 28.7. saw an attack of Helsinki climbers last weekend. This was probably the first time when 'complete outsiders' visited the place since Jyväskylä posse has kept the area secret, publishing only the topo and pictures on their website but not the driving instructions... Seven new problems were climbed from 6b+ to 7b+. Anton Johansson ticked two new 7b+ problems "Jojo" and "Pub Anton". Both are vertical, a bit technical and unrepeated. Henri Pöyry climbed one of the most beautiful sloperproblems in Finland calling it "Unelma" 7b (unelma = dream). Anton managed the 2nd ascent. Other new problems were Ville Kurru's dynamic "Leaving this planet" 6c and Make Tawast's & Henri Pöyry's three highish problems around 6b+. Of the already establihed problems Juha Saatsi's arete "Kuhan Julma" 7a is certainly among the best problems in Finland. Stone quality cannot get better! The area boosts ~50 problems and hopefully the locals will find new blocks somewhere nearby. More at Projekti's site. Straight to the topo with photos.
Last Saturday Henri Pöyry managed the 2nd ascent of "Sirkus" 7c at the Pet Sematary, Vaasa (see old updates for photo). Two new promising areas were found near the Pet Sematary with potential for at least 50 new quality problems. About five new problems were climbed (from 4 to 7b). Damn winter is getting too close...
As the climbing season is nearing it's end, the club 8a is still getting new members. This time (3.10.) the young gun Tatu Autio managed to climb 'Matador' at Falkberget. Congratulations. BTW at Falkberget there is a new sector under development far right from the main cliff. More about this to come!
Henri Pöyry climbed the almost blank wall between "Bungalow" and "Riivinrauta" at Pihlajamäki Helsinki. "Pygmin päiväuni" (7+) starts with left hand on sidepull and right foot on a small crystal. Long move to a good hold and mantle. Top out is roundish and highish... Might be very hard for smaller people.
This weekend some major projects surrendered in Vaasa. The weather couldn't have been better: sunny and around 10 degrees celsius. Saturday morning at the Pet Sematary started promisingly when Anton Johansson managed to climb the project right from "Düsseldorf" calling it "Sirkus" 7c. After this "Überhänk" 7b saw two repeats by Olli Pyykönen & Jari Pöllänen and Anton Johansson started working on his project right from "Sauerkraut". After an hour or so he succeeded in making the first ascent to Vaasa's hardest boulder problem "Senorita". According to Anton the problem is hardest he's ever done, hence the grade 8a. Feel free to repeat.
After a small coffee break the posse headed to Pilvilampi where Make Tawast was eager to do his project near the Terrorist boulders. After everyone warmed up by climbing the superb high ball slab "Leningrad" 6b Make managed to climb his project calling it "Total Gym 1000" 7b+. The problem got repeated twice by Heko Pöyry and Anton Johansson. On Sunday morning Jari Pöllänen & Samuli Lehtonen continued to work moves on the very technical arete left from "Taskuvaras" (Pet Sematary). Jari got the first ascent and soon after Samuli made the second: "Jekku-Petteri" 7b. Besides that all the people were more or less trashed Make Tawast managed to climb Tommy Vänskä's project right from "Kärpänen" naming it "Kortisonifantti" 6c. The crux of this problem is a scary mantle move above sharp blocks. Jari Pöllänen ended his day out twisting his ankle trying to escape from the mantle. Heko Pöyry & Anton Johansson made the 2nd and 3rd ascents. Anton did a flash first ascent to "Bosoni sit start" 7a+ and Heko repeated it soon after. All in all about 15-20 new problems were born this weekend. As some of the problems were longstanding projects, Mikko Routala was busy brushing many new lines around 6th grade. "Sirkus" 7c, Jekku-Petteri" 7b and "Kortisonifantti" 6c were probably the oldest projects in Vaasa. Photos will follow...
Last week Tomi Nytorp repeated Anton Johanssons two urban problems at Kivikko, Helsinki. "Pyhä Jysäys" 7b and "I scream Icecream" 7c/7c+.
RCiF editor stuff has returned by the desk after two weeks military detachment and travel. It was delightful to find out that during this time someone has been actively cranking at our nice Finnish cliffs! At least one testpiece seen a second ascent as Teemu Tapaninen managed to repeat the technical and hard 'Piru On Irti' (8a) at Olhava last weekend. This mighty line was established few years ago by Martin Nugent and it's the second hardest line at Olhava after 'Oma Planeetta' (8a+). The line is known for its extremely small and sharp holds in the crux. Again, brilliant work!
Another news from Olhava worth mentioning is Tatu Autio's ascent to 'Los Capitanos' (7a+) earlier in the summer. This ultimate crack line sees repeats very rarely.
Tomi Nytorp had a fine day at Turku yesterday (well... fine is a huge understatement...). As a warm-up Tomi climbed a couple of Olli-Pekka Manni's new 7+ problems at Ispoinen. Next spot were the boulders near Valio where Tomi climbed (also Olli-Pekkas) "Neljäs heinäkuuta" 7a+. Next destination was Kärsämäki where Tomi repated O-P's "Hyperfreak" 7c+ and some easier (?!) problems. Next in line was O-P's project at the same spot. Tomi climbed the project calling it "Rump man" about 7c. After coffee and checking the collection of fine pornovideos in the local shop the guys headed to Pallivaha where Tomi did some 7a and b he had done earlier. Then to Luolavuori... after walking "MataHari" 7c he worked a little on the sitstart project. After finding the sequence and a two minute rest he climbed half way upbut fell. Without a rest he tried it again and made it to the top: "MataHari" sitting start 8a. Not bad for one days effort... Thanks to Olli Pyykönen for news! Sadly at the moment we don't have any topos or driving instruction to these places except Luolavuori but Turku is certainly getting very interesting with a lot of hard quality boulders mostly done by Olli-Pekka Manni.
Vaasa, last weekend. Anton Johansson repeated "Sauerkraut" sitstart 7c. Bros. Kyllönen, Anssi Venho & Anton climbed a couple of new lines at Mikroautorata.
Cresciano & Chironico -area has seen some Finns flahsing this summer. At least Make Tawast visited the area during his honeymoon. Also Tomi Nytorp and some others have seen these places. Last sunday a bunch of Finns (Sampo Seppänen, Olli Pyykönen, Tommy Vänskä & Ville Kurru...) came back to Finland saying nice things about both areas. As some people concentrated more on enjoying the athmosphere, Ville flashed a couple 7b blocs and climbed "Serre-moi forte" 7c and "Grotte des soupires" 8a. Villes ascent to "Grotte des soupires" is probably first Finnish ascent to a 8a bloc abroad (if you don't count Make Tawasts fast ascent to "Hale Bopp" a couple of years back). Congratulations! (On a sidenote grading at Vaasa is on a right track, maybe even stiffer.)
Tomi Nytorp traversed Hiekkakallio at Piilolampi. The overhanging diorite traverse is called "Septemper" and it's about 5-6 meters long, starting with a bouldery ;) 7c moves and ending to a 7b(+) section. Proposed grade is 7c/7c+. Altough the handholds are like coarse sandpaper offering good friction, footholds are very slippery. Topo will be updated someday. And congratulations to Jarno Kyllönen for finally lifting his ass off the ground (and to the top) on "Kurt Kurre Orava" at Mellunmäki.
The Wallin family has been busy at Nummi cliff lately. Last Thursday Anne managed to climb mighty 'Shake My Tree' (7c+). As second female ascent to SMT, this was a brilliant performance and hardest for Anne this far. At the same day Magis ticked 'Adlon' (8a). With this tempo Magis will run out of hard routes before end of the season...
Last Saturday 1.9. had Joonas Sailaranta last working day in his summer job. Another good reason to celebrate was his excellent evening at Nummi cliff in the same day as all the effort put to 'Estrella' (8b) during the summer was rewarded by nice ascent! Earlier hardest for Joonas was 'Matador' (8a) at Falberget last fall. As I said year ago we're going to hear about this guy... Good work Joonas!
Yesterday Anton Johansson climbed maybe the best two problems at Piilolampi, Hyvinkää. "Guru", sit start (8- or ~7b) and "Galaxy" (7+). Anton climbed "Galaxy" using a little different method (statically). So it's not so height dependent after all... Altough these problems aren't the hardest they are committing, not so low and only slightly overhanging. Two top ten problems in southern Finland.
During the last couple of weeks Ville Kurru ticked some nice additions to older problems at Mellunmäki, Helsinki.
"Flying circus" 7c/7c+, long dyno from bottom till top, start from the two positive starting holds of "Dylan on messias" and launch. (a good foothold broke on "Dylan...", so it's possibly little harder than before, at least the static version is) "Teräshiiri" 7a+, sit start to "Menglutsebacka" on the wall "Teräsmies Assis" 7b/7b+, sit start to "Teräsmies" on the wall. Excellent sit start! Anton Johansson did the second ascent yesterday.
Today has Henrik Suihkonen added new hard line to Klöverberget, Siuntio. This handiwork is called 'El Toro' and the approximated grade is 8a/8a+. Henkka described that the line is very similar but slightly harder than 'Matador' at Falkberget. Another news from Siuntio is Juha Saatsi's rapid second-go ascent to 'Vacuum' last weekend.
Antons harder problem at Kivikko (see news below) is now called "I scream Icecream", Fb7c/7c+. How unique... ;)
At Mikroautorata, Vaasa Anton has climbed (last weekend) the overhanging project behind the "Noinn" -boulder. It's called "Ryhmä X" and it requires some strength...
Today 15.8. did Eerika Pawli Finnish climbing history by sending 'Vacuum' (8a) at Klöverberget, Siuntio!! This was the first ever 8a climbed by a Finnish woman and second time in a short period for Eerika in the heavy path of pushing climbing standards. The belayer Henrik Suihkonen who managed to do the route only few minutes before Eerika, described his impressions: "I could not believe my eyes when I saw Eerika climbing, the woman moved like a panther over the stone". Remembering Eerika's strength and determination on 'Shake My Tree' (7c+), this performance was only matter of time. Congratulations Eerika!!!
Some additional info about Martin's new route (#13) in Hyttyskallio. The route is named 'Klister Christer' and according to Martin, the grade is rather 7c than 7c+. A detail to be known is that on the fourth bolt the line goes left into a groove and then up.
Last Sunday 12.8. Martin Nugent redpointed his longstanding project at Hyttyskallio. The line is #13 in topo sheet and it has no name yet. The grade settles around 7c/7c+. As Hyttyskallio is mainly a vertical cliff, the line is probably very technical and fingery. A Martin style route we would say:-)
In case someone missed... Taken from our forum:
"Last weekend a group of Helsinki boulderers were visiting Sienimetsä and had a heated discussion with the farmer living in the house near the boulders. The farmer was very p****f off because of the boulderers walked through his field. The boulderers report walking along a ditch, not through his field. The farmer also accused them of blocking his road. It would be good if an alternative way to Sienimetsä was found to avoid further quarrel. This was supposedly not the first time the farmer complained.
Sienimetsän lähellä olevan talon asukas raivosi boulderoijille viime viikonloppuna, raivon syyt: 1) pellon poikki kulkeminen 2) tien tukkiminen. Voisi olla hyvä löytää uusi reitti Sienimetsään riitojen välttämiseksi. Tämä ei ilmeisesti ollut ensimmäinen kerta."
Yesterday 12.8. Henrik Suihkonen managed to climb a longstanding project at Nummi. The result is a real testpiece for fingertips! Henkka named the new route 'Jaakobin paini' and graded it around 8a+/8b. The route situates at almost holdless face on the right of 'Adlon'. It starts with cruxy dyno and continues vague line to a positive sidepull, the only 'rest' in the middle the route. From this on this 'crimp hell' continues up to top with a tricky sequence around the last bolt. In general the line is very beautyful and Henkka ranks it one of the finest lines in Finland in addition to 'Oma Planeetta', 'Vacuum' and 'Sulttaani'.
The name 'Jaakobin Paini' originates from an interview of Mika Myllylä where Mika told that he has gone through a hard Jacobs wrestling (??? how to translate this?) during the skiers doping scandal in Lahti last winter. For Henkka the project for establishing the new route was somewhat moving in a 'grey ground' (compare Mika's comments about top athletes and their life in a grey ground) because he has been reinforcing some loose holds with a glue. As we are dealing with climbing ethichs, Henkka claims for a conversation about the subject. Feel free to comment for example at Slouppi forum.
A short comment to the previous news about the hard trad line 'Päiväuni' at Turku. Line of same grade can be found from Rautavuori. The line is called 'Apatia' (8) and according to the establisher Teemu Ojala, 'Apatia' is also climbed with gear preplaced. Further ascents will confirm the grades in both cases!
Anton Johansson climbed two hard and urban problems at Kivikko, Helsinki. The problems are located behind the Kivikko kindergarten on a seamolded, high and overhanging wall. You can search kartta.hel.fi -map for "Kivikonpuisto". Public transportation: from Kontula Metro -station take bus number 94b to Kivikonkaari-Kurkimäentie junction.
On last Tuesday Anton succeeded in making the first ascent of "Pyhä Jysäys" which probably checks in at Fb7b. The grading used is probably better called Helsinki-Fb -style...you all can imagine that it took 3 tries for Anton to do "l`Ange Naïf" 7c+ at Fontainebleau compared to "Pyhä Jysäys" which took total of 4 hours and tens of attempts. "Pyhä Jysäys" is the line in the middle.
On Thursday Anton climbed the line just right from "Pyhä Jysäys" (same start) but no name or grade is yet given. According to people present this problem is harder than "Pyhä Jysäys". There is still room for at least one very hard arete on the wall right from nameless line so go and get it!
At Riistavuori (.pdf!), Helsinki Jari Pöllänen did a nice new highball just between the routes 9 and 10. This big wall route goes behind the tree. Altough it's now climbed it still needs some brushing in the upper parts, so beware.
Also the little birds told me today that there is still potential for lots of new bouldering.
Dave Smith from Turku reports about following hard trad lines: "Olli Manni has just completed a fantastic-looking, overhanging finger crack line on the North side of Pärkänvuori. It follows the 'old' aid route 'Clean Dream' (#19 in the new SKIL topo book). 'Päiväuni', Finnish grade 8 is the result. Tuomas Einiö climbed the neighbouring crack to the right at 7+/8-, 'Pikku-Veturi' (was the aid route 'Viva Las Vegas' in the SKIL topo book, #18). On the South side Antti Pensola has climbed another excellent crack line at 7+, his last route as a bachelor...". Great work boys! With the grade 8, 'Päivä Uni' is probably the hardest trad line in Finland! Thanks Dave.
On July female climbers have been breaking into the new levels also in the art of onsighting. During combined competition and rock climbing trip to Southern Europe, Janina Käyhkö climbed onsight one of the Céüse classics, 'Bibendum' (7b+). Probably the line suited well to Janina, since this long, overhanging and continuous line shut down several tough male climbers within the group! What comes to climbing outdoors, 17 years old Janina prefers to onsight as her focus is mainly in competitions. This far her onsight tick list contains impressive number of routes at 7a or higher.
Another performance worth mentioning is Sampo Kiesiläinen's 7c+ onsight at Spain during his road trip to Southern Europe.
Marko Wallin continues strong performance by redpointing 'Sulttaani' (8a+) at Nummi cliff today. Learning the line took couple of top-rope sessions from Magis but after that he completed the job by taking only one lead try! This is the second repeat after Henri Pöyry's first repetition last summer. 'Sulttaani', established -94 by Henrik Suihkonen, is the most overhanging route in Nummi. In addition to power and stamina, this line demands good jamming skills from the climber.
Yesterday, 25th of July stadards of Finnish climbing were pushed a grade higher by Eerika Pawli (former Lipsanen). After relatively short but intensive period of attempts, Eerika managed to redpoint 'Shake My Tree' (7c+) at Nummi cliff. This is the first Finnish female ascent to a route this hard!
'Shake My Tree' is very physical route which overhangs around 6 meters during 18-20 meters length. It demands both power and exceptional stamina. This was noticed also by Eerika who (as many other climbers before) fell several times from the 'easy' crack section only couple of meters from the top. According to Eerika, her next target will be in Siuntio (Klöverberget). We bet the name of the route starts with 'V'. Good work Eerika!!
This week we had a nice international happening at Geta, Åland. With Marianne from Norway, Flemming from Denmark, Mathias from Switzerland and his french girlfriend (who's name is impossible for a Finn to remember ;)). Completed with Ålands own people Daniela, Tomas, Jim & their friend and us from Helsinki (Talvikki, Anssi, Jarno & Samuli) we even outnumbered the tourists looking for caves. "Do you have cocaine in those bags" asked one tourist... Yesterday even more people came: Eero Liehu and his friends. This is worth a comment because you very rarely see this many people on Finnish climbing spots excluding traditional Olhava perhaps.
But OK, the news: Finally some light to the rumours around an 8a boulderproblem at Geta. The Swiss strongman Mathias (with "four hands", amazing hooking moves) managed - on his trip to Geta last year - a roofproblem at Fågelberget which according to him is very hard, probably 8a. I'm not sure about the absolute location of this roof but it's little uphill from the shore, near an old fireplace. The problem itself is a sitstart starting from the very back of the "cave" and it continues to the lip. So go and look for it... it's definitely among the hardest problems in Finland. This year at Djupviken Mathias did one very hard sitstart to this boulder. It starts from "down under" the boulder right hand on very small crimpers following the right edge and finishing up left of the problem on the picture. He also worked on a very hard traverse on the main wall which would start from the 7c on the "cave's mouth" or from the jugs little right from the 7c and traversing right. Anssi Venho did a fine job by climbing the 7c on "cave's mouth" on his second day of trying. On Tuesday Anssi did the crux moves twice and fell from the jugs halfway up (Mathias who was videofilming asked "What are you doing man???"). On Wednesday he had trouble sticking the first move he onsighted the day before, but as Talvikki was getting little restless about our ferry leaving to Turku (she yelled: "you have 10 minutes...5 minutes) Anssi got the first two moves and the rest also. Also Mathias climbed this problem again.
At Kasviken Anssi didn't do the 6c so he did 6c+ instead, at Djupviken he fell from 7a so he did 7c instead...strange powers... Other things happened: At least Flemming, Mathias, Jarno & Tomas did the traverse photographed here on jug.nu, second photo. And at least Jarno climbed the "Hammas" -needle (both the trav and the needle are something between 7a and 7b) visible here. Eero did the long roofproblem on the middle of the main wall and crimped "Trust" + etc etc. Older Geta news: A couple of weeks ago Martin Nugent and Henrik Suihkonen added about 10 new problems to Kasviken and Djupviken. At Djupviken they did 2 new straight-up highball problems to the main wall. Probably more on these later.
"Estrella", the mighty 8b got its first repetition 19th July by Rami Haakana. The route has gained a fierce reputation by shutting down the elite Finnish climbers despite some hard trying. However, people present could do nothing but just admire Rami climbing fluidly and in balance showing nothing but the pure determination and harmony when the man and the rock are the one and same. Not a bad effort, not at all ;-)". Text by Olli Pyykönen.
Last saturday 12th ranked climber in Finland Anssi Venho got the 3rd ascent of Anton's unnamed (7b+?) problem at Työntökulma, Taivaskallio. Topo.
Yesterday Peter Hammer climbed his project at Nummi cliff between 'Abacab' and 'Trapetsi'. The new line is at the highest point of the main face giving almost 20 meters of remarkably continuous and sustained climbing. The line overhangs 5 meters, but surprisingly there are no powerful crux sections which are typical for routes at the cliff. The first estimate about the grade is 7b and there is no name yet. Update: The route was named 'Tornado' by Pete.
At end of May Toby Archer climbed a new naturally secured crack at the most left sector at Olhava. This 10 meters high line is called 'Dead Bat Crack' and it situates about 5 meters right from 'Heart of Stone'. Grade is around 5-.
News from early June is an impressive onsight by our hard all-round climber, Marko 'Magis' Wallin who managed to onsight 'Arnage.com' (8a) at Gorges du Tarn (southern France). Before this, only Tomi Nytorp has managed with this hard onsight.
Tomi Nytorp has repeated Anton Johanssons hard new problem at Taivaskallio, Helsinki. What's the name??
Antti Joensuu flashed or on-sighted (who knows!) "Lobotomy Wall" 6+ at Meilahti, Helsinki. The line is Finlands best known highball located at Meilahti, Helsinki.
Anton Johansson has finally managed the onemove dynoproject at Koivusaari, Helsinki. No more rock without lines at Koivusaari! Name or grade unknown. See photo of Anssi Venho attemptimg the dyno, here.
Suomen Kiipeilyliitto Ry (Finnish Climbing Association) has now published the long waited topo guide! The guide covers the most significant cliffs and boulders around Finland from Ahvenanmaa to Sodankylä. You'll find the book in climbing shops or by contacting local climbing clubs. Source: Topo 2001 pages.
This is for you who haven't visited Rock Climbing in Finland for a while... Teemu Ojala challenges Make Tawast. Till the last week Make Tawast's "Euforia" at Angelniemi had reputation as the hardest problem in Finland. Teemu Ojala opened "Get a life" at Rautavuori, Hyvinkää. Proposed grade is 7c+, the same as "Euforia".
"At May Teemu Ojala climbed his longstanding project at Rautavuori putting up a new testpiece, 'Get a Life' Fb7c+. The grade suggests this line to be among the absolutely most difficult boulders in Finland. According to Teemu 'Get a Life' offers extremely technical and powerful climbing and is by far the most difficult boulder he has ever climbed. The route has no repeats yet so... what are you waiting for! Get a Life and go to Rautavuori (or maybe vice versa...)."
A couple of weeks ago a bunch of people from Helsinki visited Geta producing quite a lot new lines, some very hard. Tomi Nytorp's traverse "Black surrender" (7c+/8a) at Djupviken is yet another candidate for the hardest moves in Finland. Tommy "don cortisone" Vänskä tried to clarify the accomplishments:
Djupviken (the main place):
1. "Black surrender", font7c+/8a trav *** on Kojootti -boulder (Tomi Nytorp)
2. "Mikromartikainen", 5+ (?), near la defense-arete on a big boulder ***
3. left of "Mikromartikainen", 7a (?) (Tomi Nytorp)
4. "Que te parte el rayo", 6c (?), even more to the left (Olli Pyykönen)
5. "Umpihomo" sit start, 7b, on a wall left of main cave (Make Tawast)
6. "Kali mist" dyno, 7a+ *** (Ville Kurru, at night)
7. "Mocca master", 6c+ (Ville Kurru)
8. Roofproblem far right, hard (Tomi Nytorp & Make Tawast) ***
9. "Mundo ganja", 7a (visible on the foto, roof far right) (Make Tawast) ***
10. "Bussen till slussen", 7a dyno (left of arete on photo) (Make Tawast) ***
11. Project (left from "Mundo Ganja", follows very steep arete). "The best line in the world?"
Another boulder downhill from "Mundo ganja" -boulder:
12. 7a+ dyno (Make Tawast) ***
The big boulder near shoreline:
13. 6+, *** (Tomi Nytorp)
High Low roof on the hillside above the big boulder:
14. "Make's roof", ?, (Make Tawast)
15. "Pahkinänsärkijä", 7a, (Make Tawast)
16. "Double toe hooker", ?, (Tomi Nytorp)
17. 7b dyno (Make Tawast)
18. 6b (Ville Kurru)
Maybe this news should rather be published at pulteri.net but as the Rautavuori topo is published within these pages we'll make this small exception. At May Teemu Ojala climbed his longstanding project at Rautavuori putting up a new testpiece, 'Get a Life' Fb7c+. The grade suggests this line to be among the absolutely most difficult boulders in Finland. According to Teemu 'Get a Life' offers extremely technical and powerful climbing and is by far the most difficult boulder he has ever climbed. The route has no repeats yet so... what are you waiting for! Get a Life and go to Rautavuori (or maybe vice versa...).
Some of the Jyväskylä posse made ascents to "Bosoni", 7b and "Überhänk", 7b+ at Vaasa and wrote something about downgrading...;). Also same guys (?) managed Juha Saatsi's "Forte", 7c! Great work! More in Finnish at Projekti's site.
New cliff at Haaga (Helsinki)! Nice place with 21 lines some of them rather highish. Easy to hard. Most lines are done by Mikko Routala, Olli Pyykönen & Tomppa Kaario. Topo is "under construction" but you'll find the place near the houses of Riistavuorenkuja 3. For a map look here and search for Riistavuorenkuja. Very nice rock quality, only drawback being its proximity to housing.
Thanks to active climbers, several new routes have been established in various cliffs during May. RCiF has updated the topo database with following additions. At Nummi a direct finish to 'Shake My Tree' was established by Henrik Suihkonen. Henkka named the line as 'Hemohes variaatio' and the grade is around 7c+. One bolt and an anchor was added. At Rautavuori Toby Archer has added naturally secured crack line around 15 meters left from 'Perusyrmeä'. The route is called 'Squirrel' since according to Toby 'it is small and cuddly and will eat all of your nuts':-). Grade is around 4. At Rollarit Samu Kaseva has established four new lines. A new line between a nameless route and 'Spiderman' is called 'Carte d'Or' (5+). Two bolts has been added. Another new line 'Mikko Jumberi' (7/7+) situates between 'Esko Mäkelä' and 'Huuhkaja'. The line uses first bolt of 'Esko Mäkelä' and the to right and up. Two bolts were added. Also worth mentioning is a 3 bolt line in the separate block called 'Pellavapää' (4) and right side variation of this (do not use the edge!) with grade around 6.
Last but maybe the most interesting new addition is Samu Kaseva's new route at Olhava. 'Naseva' (6+) goes straight up the face between 'Kantti' and 'Puntti' and offers presumably quite precise face climbing. From the first bolt of 'Puntti' the line continues up to the last bolt of 'Kantti'. In order to prevent too massive runout, one bolt has been added in the middle.
Anton Johansson going strong. Last friday Anton managed 2nd Finnish ascent of Hueco Blues, 7c at Mellunmäki, Helsinki.
First half of May has offered some excellent climbing weather in Southern Finland. There is however not a lot to report about Finnish rock climbing scene. RCiF likes to encourage all of you who know something worth mentioning within this News column to send your news directly to RCiF email address. News further outside the capital area are especially welcome! Any new routes, significant ascents etc, please, keep'em coming!
Around capital area worth mentioning were two quick ascents to 'Vacuum' (8a) at Siuntio (Klöverberget) cliff by Henri Pöyry and Rami Haakana on last Tuesday and Wednesday. This cliff is in very good shape. Practically all routes are dry by now. During the summer we might also see new level of difficulty in Finland. The 'Crimp Master' Jari Pöllänen has been making very good progress with the longstanding project at Nummi. More exactly the line is the one right from 'Adlon'. Today Jari managed to lead this extremely crimpy and sustained line up to the last bolt. In a case of a clean ascent, the grade of this project will resumably settle around 8b+.
Next two weeks Jari will spend at Gorges du Tarn, France. No new updates in RCiF pages during this time will be expected since I'll also be joining to this trip. Wish you all good climbing weathers for the rest of the May!
Baltic Open in difficulty and speed climbing will be arranged on June 2-3 at Riga, Latvia. According to the invitation, the wall for difficulty competition sounds impressive: height 12 meters with up to 6 meters overhang. You will find the official invitation from here. Source: Normunds Reinbergs, Latvian Youth Sport Center of Mountaineering.
The latest addition to RCiF database is Rautavuori near Hyvinkää. At this spot you'll find around 30 quality boulders and lead routes in a wide grade range. Thanks to Teemu Ojala for sketch about the cliff and the photos!
Nordic Championships in bouldering will be arranged on June 22-23 at Voss, Norway. The competition will be hosted by Bergen Climbing Club. Invitation and furhter information can be found from here. Source: Peter Allansson, Swedish Climbing Federation.
Today has Pulteri.net opened a new chat forum specially for climbing related discussion. This forum is bi-lingual (Finnish/English) so do not hesitate to start a discussion or give a comment even if your Finnish skills have become rusty... Note that you need to register if you want to take part into the discussion. To enter the Forum, click a new 'Forum by Pulteri' button down left on RCiF pages. Have a nice chat!!
Today it has been a sunny day in southern Finland. The weather has attracted people to make the first outdoor climbing explorations at least around the Helsinki area. However it has been annoying to discover that some ignorant climber(s) have very recently been climbing at the popular Meilahti boulder cliff with crampons and ice axes. As a result several holds have come off from the wall and some of the classic boulders may have been ruined! It is therefore emphasized here that this kind of action is very condemnable. General opinion among the freeclimbers, boulderers and also ice/mixed climbers is, that the free climbing and bouldering cliffs should be preserved only for free climbing and bouldering! There are certainly enough other cliffs to train mixed techniques.
Asian tärkeyden vuoksi sama vielä suomeksi: ÄLKÄÄ TUHOTKO BOULDER JA VAPAAKIIPEILYKALLIOITA JÄÄRAUDOILLA JA HAKUILLA! Yleinen kanta sekä kallio-, että jääkiipeilijöiden keskuudessa on se, että vapaakiipeilykalliot ja boulderit rauhoitetaan tällaiselta toiminnalta. Hieno vapaareitti voi olla lopullisesti pilalla, jos ote irtoaa kruksikohdasta. Mixtaharjoitteluun sopivia muita kallioita on varmasti riittämiin!!
Despite of occasional snowfalls and numb fingers, we'd still like to remind all indoor crankers that summer is coming after all. In order to get into right mood, RCiF proudly presents a series of inspiring climbing photos by Mikko Routalain the Gallery page . In these photos Anne Wallin and Eerika Lipsanen are sending Urheiluhullu (6c+) and Juppihippipunkkari (6c) at Falkberget, one of the very first spots to direct on springtime. Maybe next weekend!
As well as last year, Sweden dominated in Nordic Championships by taking victory both in men and women. The winners were Peter Bosma and Ingela Nilsson, who stood on the highest podium also last year. In men second was Kerava's Sampo Kiesiläinen and third Robin Vickery from Denmark. In women second place was taken by Linn Karin Stendal and third by Anne Wallin from Helsinki! Good work from Sampo and Anne!!! Source of results: pages of 8a.nu.