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Slouppi :: View topic - Lofoten
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Lofoten
http://www.slouppi.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1131
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Author:  crello [ Wed Jun 15, 2005 21:29 ]
Post subject:  Lofoten

Hello, I am planning a little trip to Lofoten in Norway this summer and would be greatful for any info regarding areas and possible topos for bouldering etc. I have never been there and have no info what so ever, so everything would be appreaciated very much!

thanks

/crello

Author:  Toby [ Thu Jun 16, 2005 11:15 ]
Post subject: 

Are you going just to boulder, or to do routes and maybe some bouldering in the evenings?

If the latter, there is loads to have fun. Boulders by the beach next to Kalle campground, lots below Presten on the way down to Henningsvaer, more at the turning from the main road, on to the smaller road to Henningsvaer.

I'm not sure if there are any topos. Some photos on Ben Moon's website of his problems.

If you are going to Lofoten just to boulder, you are beyond help and should seek professional psychiatric counselling. ;)

Author:  olli [ Fri Jun 17, 2005 09:24 ]
Post subject: 

only spent there few days bouldering and still pretty much sane or at least it didn't make it worse but i'll take your advice, toby..

photos at ben moon's site are mostly from the henningsvaer road. other spot he's put up problems is are more to the west - maybe two hours by car - but the name escapes me. however, there is only few blocs which are visible to the road.

never visited another place mentioned in finnish thread, paradiset. it's meant to be a big area but heard that the rock is like in joshua tree which doesn't make it sound very tempting. prolly good lines here and there and lots of choss..

Author:  Toby [ Fri Jun 17, 2005 10:10 ]
Post subject: 

olli wrote:
never visited another place mentioned in finnish thread, paradiset. it's meant to be a big area but heard that the rock is like in joshua tree which doesn't make it sound very tempting. prolly good lines here and there and lots of choss..


Paradiset is a ten minute walk from the Kalle campsite. The rock is immaculate granite, I don't know if that's the same as Joshua Tree as I've never been there - but unless you don't like perfect pink granite I'm not sure what could be wrong with it. There are lots of single pitch routes, of differing grades, and considering the area is spread over kms and is all rock I imagine there is enough bouldering to fill a month. We just did routes there.

One of the most obvious lines as you walk there is the massively overhanging crack of Butterarms. We belayed some french lads on it, they did all the moves but didn't have time to link it. They reckoned F8b or 8b+ but as it is on trad gear something like E7 6c might be more appropriate. So if you are feeling strong... :lol:

Paradiset photos:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=22235
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=18942
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=18877
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=18759

And one from the Presten boulders:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=18875

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