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Slouppi • View topic - Invicta - Jaanankallio

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Fri Jul 19, 2019 07:43

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2005 18:53 
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Joined: Wed May 14, 2003 02:00
Posts: 115
Location: Hki 93
Jep, kesä on tullut! Vanhan sanonnan "kuu kiurusta kesään..." loppu tulisi muuttaa muotoon "pulttauskeskustelusta ei päivääkään..."

Vaikka pulttaisit oman reittisi, jonka olet ensinoussut luonnollisilla, niin joku itkee.

Kesä, ja keskustelu, tulee joka vuosi, eikä yllätä, niin kuin keli autoilijoita.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2005 19:47 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Rami wrote:
'Invicta' goes up slightly left directing crack. Climbers usually descent by using a tree on the left where the obvious crack ends. However, the route can be continued further up to the top over the slab on the right. The new bolt in question is added on this slab which cannot be otherwise protected. Someone correct if I'm wrong with this.


In that case, it sounds sensible. I think I know where it is - but perhaps they have done an entirely new "alternative finish"? I wonder if it the same grade?

Quote:
I find scary natural routes inspiring, but in a case of 'Käkimassaa', I do understand the bolting. In practise the route cannot be naturally protected and most probably it hasn't seen any repetitions. Nikko's first ascent is exceptional, but a climbable route in this case is probably better than a curiosity. There isn't that much potential left in Jaanankallio and the line (or face) offers some nice climbing.


I think Käkimassaa is the one route at Jaanankallio below 6 that I haven't led (I even done both Paskaränni and Grande Couloir in the past, and "enjoyed" the offwidths of Paskan Marjat a couple of weeks ago), as basically its too bold for me. So from a personal point of view I can enjoy it now, but I'm in two minds over whether it was a good thing or not as Finland has very few really bold routes at any grade.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 09, 2005 20:19 
We have two very bold routes in Viitapohja. They are both about 10m high, first led by a woman in the mid 90's and rated 6 or 6+. There has been discussion about bolting them but we haven't done it. I think both routes have seen two or three ascents their entire life. In addition, there is one very bold route in Ketara rated 7.

I think we won't bolt any of these routes since you can "protect" them with smaller RPs. The crux moves are at about 7m which is not too high by today's bouldering standards.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2005 12:26 
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Joined: Thu Aug 14, 2003 02:00
Posts: 46
Location: Helsinki
Kiitokset uusista pulteista. Reitit Haliba ja Magma Red on nyt järkevästi pultattu ainakin omasta mielestäni.

Mitenkä muuten tuo Stinger on tarkoitettu kiivettäväksi. Lähinnä tuo yläosa kyseisestä reitistä. Jos kiipeää vasemmalla olevan "kolmion" kautta, niin reitti on kyllä todella vaikea. Eli onko tarkoitus kiivetä osittain kanttia pitkin?


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