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Slouppi • View topic - Onnettomuus haviksella

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Fri Apr 26, 2019 16:07

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 08:37 
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2001 02:00
Posts: 129
Location: Porvoo
U cannot count away manufacturing error either. I mean, every year you hear or read about single accidents were the most probable reason behind the accident is a broken karabiner or similar, for reason or another.

Corrosion may also be the cause, affecting the strength of the maillon at the point where the threads start (for example), especially if the maillon was some kind of old zink-plated version (?) that have been there for many, many years.

There is no 100% guarantee that any single piece of gear do not have a manufacturing defect, being it whatever manufacturing standards that the product must fulfil.

As Jarkko said, finnish cliffs are so low that leaving own gear and abseil from above later is the best life insurance.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 18:19 
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Joined: Fri Jun 04, 2004 20:41
Posts: 231
Mikael wrote:
especially if the maillon was some kind of old zink-plated version (?)

From what I've understood, below is a picture of the maillon in question. It doesn't look too corroded to me.
Image

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PostPosted: Sat May 10, 2008 12:44 
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Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2001 02:00
Posts: 298
Location: One Pint
Good thing that the hero is doing well and will recover completely! Even though this accident was mostly bad luck, climbers in Finland might learn about this, and hopefully this will be last of it's kind.


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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 06:29 
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Joined: Thu Sep 22, 2005 14:16
Posts: 10
Location: Jakobstad
In a situation where you have to lower or abseil before the anchor, I have understood that maillons are typically used. Are maillons the most suitable pieces of gear for this purpose? Of course, you don't want to leave valuable screw lock carabiners on the cliff if you can't collect them afterwards, but are there other alternatives? A cheap screw lock carabiner still costs only a few euros more than a maillon...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 08:00 
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Joined: Mon Apr 18, 2005 12:31
Posts: 86
Caj wrote:
Of course, you don't want to leave valuable screw lock carabiners on the cliff if you can't collect them afterwards, but are there other alternatives?


I've been happy doing just that whenever I've had to bail off a route. I've always considered it the price I have to pay for miscalculating my abilities.

edited to say: over the years I've had to part with 3 biners I think. Hasn't got me bankrupt yet.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 15:22 
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Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 17:46
Posts: 129
The other alternative would probably be to use a bomber maillon and add a wrench or similar tool to your rack.

I think in Finland the best would, in any case, to go collect all the gear away from the crags. Leave it as it was when you got there.


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 Post subject: Re: Onnettomuus haviksella
PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 14:19 
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Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 15:43
Posts: 49
Or, you can use "prusik-trick" if you're cleaning the route and you're not sure about the state of the anchor. and, if you re not climbing on a cliff on to which you can walk easily. i've done it a few times, especially here in china where the anchors might not always be top quality. if someone has a better explanation, please, but simply:

tie a prusik to the lowering-end of the rope (i mean, the other side that goes through the anchor) and clip it with a carabiner to your belay-loop. this way, in case the anchor fails, you only fall to the next quick draw (the prusik will stop you - i dunno about how it can damage the rope if this happened but better that than falling to the ground...). if the anchor fails when you've removed the last quick-draw you should be pretty close to the ground already.

(please correct me if i'm wrong but this is what i ve been taught)

-kat

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Pelko synnyttää epävarmuutta ja epävarmuus toteuttaa pelon.


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 Post subject: Re: Onnettomuus haviksella
PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 18:35 
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How is that "trick" made?

On abseil or when somebody is lowering you? It didn't open to me.. eli saisko rautalangasta :o ?

Mikko


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 Post subject: Re: Onnettomuus haviksella
PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 18:42 
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Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 02:00
Posts: 368
Tajusin kun hetken mietin, heh.. :lol:


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 Post subject: Re: Onnettomuus haviksella
PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 07:25 
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Joined: Wed Apr 13, 2005 15:43
Posts: 49
when somebody's lowering you.

i dunno how you could do it when abseiling down yourself and cleaning the route. i didnt do it when there was an edge (it wasnt too sharp but and edge anyway) and the anchor looked bad, i just let me belayer lower me off and tied a safety-prusik.

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 Post subject: Re: Onnettomuus haviksella
PostPosted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 18:21 
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Posts: 368
Thanks, it sounds like a good trick to use when needed.

And best wishes and may the recovery be fast to the guy who fell.

Mikko


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