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Slouppi • View topic - Tussinkoski, Korso

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Tue Mar 19, 2019 03:53

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PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2001 21:48 
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Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2001 02:00
Posts: 60
-- Posted by Toby on 4:47 pm on Aug. 20, 2001

As promised ages ago on the Topo thread, here are some of the grades for Tussinkoski. The route numbers refer to the Mountainshop.fi topo. All the routes were led by Vessa Kauto, Teppo Saarenpää or me- long time ago (97 and 98) so I can't remember who did which first. the grades are our guesses, so don't take them as gospel.

6. Jippo liukastus 6- (E1 5b or 5c, neither myself nor Teppo made it up this one with out falling off so it might even be a 6!)
12. Leibäkki 5+/6- (E1 5b)
10. Porraskäytävä 4+ (HS 4b)
15. Kanti 4+ (HS 4c)
16. Kattokruunu 5 (VS 5a)
16a. Trident 5- (VS 4c, new route- takes the crack formed by the right end of the giant chockstone, Kattokruunu goes straight over the chock stone just to the left and Kantti is the crack on the left side)
17. Pala kakkua 4+ (HS 4b)
18. Free Hueco 5- (VS 4c, new route- takes a thin crack up the wall using interesting pockets, about 4 metres right of Route 17)

I haven't been there this summer, but if it is dry I recommend it, the Huecos (pockets) are pretty cool, and there would be some amazing hard routes probably ok protected with cams and tricams in the pockets for all you strong lads.

The routes noted above are all well protected, easy to mid-grade trad routes, so if that's what you like it is well worth a visit. I have no idea if the routes have been led before, I would imagine so but don't understand why the grades weren't included on the topo. Maybe some of the harder lines still haven't been led?

Anyone know who developed the crag and when? There was a big stash of porno mags at the bottom of Porraskäytävä, which made belaying more interesting, I expect they are a bit soggy by now. From the rain of course.










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-- Posted by Toby on 3:12 pm on Aug. 27, 2001

I went to Tussinkoski yesterday and re-led most of the easier routes. It just reminded me that it is a nice crag with some fun routes, there is also a lot of bouldering potential that is quite different from a much of the stuff round Helsinki.

The top of a lot of the routes are quite heavily mossed up and the cracks are full of muck and pine needles so take your nut key if you are leading as some of the placements need to be cleaned. Although people have obviously been bouldering there, the state of the routes makes me suspect that they have had few or no ascents this year. This is quite sad :sad: because with out a few visits once in while crags become overgrown and 'lost' to climbers. It is also really quite weird considering how mobbed Rollarit often is; Tussinkoski has routes across the grade range and can't be any further out of Helsinki than Rollarit is.

Finally you can get there easily on a bus from town. Get the 633 from the Railway station (634 on Sundays) and get off at the third or fourth stop once the bus has turned off Korsontie on to Saviontie (I think that's the right spelling) after about 40 minutes.

At least yesterday the crag was bone dry.





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-- Posted by Jarkko on 9:51 am on Aug. 28, 2001

The pockets at Tussinkoski are quite funky, and the climbing is nice. I think that there are two reasons for the apparent unpopularity of T: the lack of information (before the topo book) and (most importantly?) the lack of bolts.

There is no dry rock in Helsinki region for a couple of days after this rain.





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-- Posted by jmakinen on 10:00 am on Aug. 28, 2001

Lack of bolts is good.

Bolts are the Devils handywork.

The rain is a punishment for us mortals because of some poor soul running HILTI next to a perfect nut placement.

Remember this when planning your afterlife.

I have now spoken.






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-- Posted by Toby on 10:12 am on Aug. 28, 2001

There are actually some bolted belay points at the top of many of the routes there. I'm not sure who put them there considering the time and money involved, when there are so many huge trees just a little way back, but anyway they are there amongst the moss.

All the routes I have mentioned above are well protected with a 'normal' selection of gear, you don't really need RPs or huge friends or anything funky(although I did put an RP in on the crux of Kattokruunu - along with a rock 5 and friend 1- if it's there use I say!).

J is right about bolts and the devil of course :biggrin:, nice to know I'm on the side of the angels.

What's with this weather? It's meant to be August for f*cks sake!








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-- Posted by Pete on 10:55 am on Aug. 28, 2001

We visited Tussinkoski in -97 I think and found it to be a very nice place. Unfortunataly it is not allowed to bolt any of the difficult lines (maybe 2 ) but there are a lot of good natural lines. We lead about 4-5 routes that time. To me the popularity of Rollarit is a mystery, for a beginner I would prefer Tussinkoski even if there are no bolts. Maybe somebody could explain to me what makes Rollarit that popular.
Jarkko, the mainface of Falkberget dries in 2-3 hours after any kind of rain, so tomorrow it is dry.





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-- Posted by Jarkko on 1:17 pm on Aug. 28, 2001

Jukka: you just couldn´t do The route at Siuntio last weekend, could you? I sense great amounts of frustration... Try drinking less coffee and relax a little.

Pete: I know it dries fast, but F is not what a man without a car would call "Helsinki region". I have to get me one of those. And this rain could go on for days, who knows?

Dreaming of those Dry autumn days. We could possibly than G.W. Bush,Jr not for creating this situation but for making it much worse in the years and generations to come.





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-- Posted by jmakinen on 1:31 pm on Aug. 28, 2001



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Quote: from Jarkko on 1:17 pm on Aug. 28, 2001



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Jukka: you just couldn´t do The route at Siuntio last weekend, could you? I sense great amounts of frustration... Try drinking less coffee and relax a little.

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On the contrary, the three 7c:s are now ticked. Should probably hit Vacuum next but I fear my rope won't take my fat ass on the inevitable fall.

The frustration part is correct.

Buy the road, still couldn't tick Metropolis. I curse my fat saturated behind.

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-- Posted by Toby on 1:41 pm on Aug. 28, 2001

I've read that global warming is possibly going to stop the gulf stream, they are talking about the return of glaciers to Scotland.

Anyway, it might mean Finland gets a 10 month ice season. Good friction for you boulderers as well.





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-- Posted by jmakinen on 7:28 am on Sep. 6, 2001

Went to see this place last week on a rainy day.

What a kick ass james brown piece of rock!

Well, would be a kick ass if it were the double of its height...but the james brown still stands.

What I don't understand is the note on the SKIL topo saying one should not put up any new routes there? I get the bolting prohibited part, though (also said in the topo).

I suggest every highball bouldering freak visits this place.

Korso scared the sh*t out of me..






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-- Posted by Jarkko on 10:04 am on Sep. 6, 2001

I think that "bouldering" in Tussari usually means traversing. I haven´t thought it as a highball bouldering place earlier, when I was there last time I still believed in SKIL´s definition of bouldering (i.e. sideways at 0-2m). I cant remember the height of it, though. It is higher than Riistavuori, but is it higher than Meikku?

Perhaps we should gather a posse some day and give it a go, even if we are not brave enough(which is likely) we can at least enjoy nice pockets and dream that we are somewhere quite far away...





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-- Posted by jmakinen on 10:33 am on Sep. 6, 2001



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Quote: from Jarkko on 10:04 am on Sep. 6, 2001


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I cant remember the height of it, though. It is higher than Riistavuori, but is it higher than Meikku?

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Yep, at least some of it.


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Perhaps we should gather a posse some day and give it a go

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Count me in if you're going up there. I'll be peeing my pants in Britain from 14th to 25th of September but any other day is fine.

Projekti's site has my phone number.


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even if we are not brave enough(which is likely)

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I'll bring my pad, the smaller one. We'll be fine.


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we can at least enjoy nice pockets and dream that we are somewhere quite far away...

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It is hard to shake off Korso after you've driven through it, I tell you.

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-- Posted by Toby on 11:19 am on Sep. 7, 2001



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Quote:
What I don't understand is the note on the SKIL topo saying one should not put up any new routes there? I get the bolting prohibited part, though (also said in the topo).


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I agree thats pretty stupid- as long as no bolts go in who the hell would know anyway? There were three little kids playing there when I was there, they called me and Elina mountain climbers- so I don't think they are going to know the difference!

Where are you going in the UK and what do you want to do?

cheers
Toby.




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-- Posted by jmakinen on 3:06 pm on Sep. 7, 2001



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Quote: from Toby on 11:19 am on Sep. 7, 2001
Where are you going in the UK and what do you want to do?

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To Leeds at first and then wherever our host will take us. Trad's the name of the game and mr. Juha Saatsi our host so I'm pretty sure we'll all die.




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-- Posted by Toby on 3:27 pm on Sep. 7, 2001

Just because grit is soooo coool and 'trendi' these days, make sure you get to the mountains, the Lakes are nice (if they have stopped slaughtering and burning all the animals), and mountain rock grade feel easier than grit grades, particularly Yorkshire grit, and it is only an hour an a bit from Leeds.

I am led to believe by my Leeds sources that Mr. Saatsi's first ever trad route was Wellington Crack at Ilkley, if this is true- nuff respect!!!

Be suspicous of people from Yorkshire, they are a little odd- take Dave in Turku as an obvious example! But the Sam Smiths ale is god-like perfection. Have fun and only climb the P1 routes or take lots of spare underpants.





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-- Posted by Dave on 11:46 am on Sep. 14, 2001

And Toby said:

>Be suspicous of people from Yorkshire, they are a little >odd- take Dave in Turku as an obvious example!

Watch yer step yah soft southern pufta....

>But the Sam Smiths ale is god-like perfection.

Ok... maybe I'll let you off then. I lived on it in my Uni days.... 48p a pint from the Union bar.

cheers
Dave


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