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Slouppi • View topic - The "cure" and Haukankallio

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Wed Dec 12, 2018 23:21

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2003 18:57 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 02:00
Posts: 75
I had one of the best weekends I have had climbing in Finland at Havukallio and Haukan kallio. Although I am sure you are interested the point of my post is two fold.

1. At havukallio I did a route called “cure”, although the route was very enjoyable I came away feeling that it was a bit stiff for its grade. Presently it is graded at 5- I was thinking maybe it should be at least a 5. Does anyone else feel the same about this route?

2. Just to back up what a Toby said in a recent post. Haukankallio has at least one lovely route that I would recommend to anyone. This route is Kaukalo 5,( that is according to the new topo book, the Mountainshop topo has the routes going the opposite direction, right to left, which makes the route I did "Kampa" ?) and it ranks in the top two Finnish trad routes I have climbed (and no I have not just climbed two). So you have been told go to Haukankallio and learn to look beyond first 5 metres of rubble and moss to the glorious climbing beyond.


P.S. While it’s agreeing with Toby day, Teacher at Olhava should be a 5-/5.

Cheers,
Jody

I apologoise if these topics have already been covered in finnish. I am trying to learn but it's hard.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Jody on 2003-08-31 19:58 ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Jody on 2003-08-31 19:59 ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Jody on 2003-08-31 20:21 ]</font>


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2003 19:40 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 02:00
Posts: 75
Is the route I did Kaukalo or Kampa?
It involves following a line of pitons up a strange hanging corner and then traversíng a couple of metres right at 2/3 height onto a 10m(+/-) slab with a couple of fine cracks running up the centre.

cheers,
Jody


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2003 20:29 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2002 02:00
Posts: 86
Location: Grani
Hi,
Jody, i read a topic on Rakka.net that the Mountainshop topo has the routes in the right order, which would mean that the route you led was Kampa 5+ and not Kaukalo.
is this true?
greetings,
Erik


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2003 08:18 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Quote:

P.S. While it’s agreeing with Toby day, Teacher at Olhava should be a 5-/5.



My favourite day of the year. Could you just tell my girlfriend and everyone at my office please? :wink:

If the route you did is the one that steps excitingly left into the fine crack going up the undercut-arete sort of thing - then that was definitely Kampa. I don't think it is 5+, most of the climbing is 5- (VS 4c), perhaps the last few moves on the cracks up the headwall slab (with the insitu pitons) are 5 (HVS 5a), but not 5+. The exposed step left makes Kampa a kind of Finnish Valkyrie (Roaches not Froggat).

Jody - if you didn't do Suuri Leikkaus there, you should next time. Its great and clean. About HVS 5b I would say. Bomber gear.

Were there a large number of naked young ladies swimming in the with river at Haukkankallio when you were there? There was when I went but I don't know if this is a regular attraction of the crag.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2003 11:03 
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Joined: Fri Aug 16, 2002 02:00
Posts: 96
Sounds like Toby is trying to get more people climbing in Haukankallio...maybe he's hoping someone would clean the routes for him. Nice try anyway.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2003 12:40 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 02:00
Posts: 75
Sex sells, I personally did not notice any young ladies in their birthday suits but it was dark when we left the crag.

Thanks Erkke and Toby for the clarification, it did seem strange that the new topo guide placed the classic Kampa going up an unspectacular gully/offwidth.

Toby: I do agree (no surprise there, maybe you could disagree with my interpretation of Cure’s grade to restore a bit of balance) with your interpretation of the grade of Kampa. I would say it was a 5 (HVS 5a/b, although it’s hard to choose between VS/HVS with those pitons there).

Nobody has bothered to write say whether they agree or disagree with my opinion of the grade of the Cure. Maybe many see it as not worth climbing.

Cheers,
Jody


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2003 13:50 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
T.Ojala - I've done everything I can do at Haukankallio, so I don't need anything cleaned, but I do think its a shame that I nice crag is doesn't see more traffic. It doesn't need 'cleaning' as such, just more people doing the routes.

Jody - If I remember rightly the hard bit of Cure is the start - it is tricky and doesn't have much protection. Probably best just to get your belayer to spot you on the fist few moves. Grade-wise... hmm the moves might be 5 or even 5+ but just off the ground, so overall it doesn't really feel like a 'real 5+' whatever that means. I'm still not sure if Finnish grades are meant to be for the hardest move or the whole route, so to "simplify" things :lol: VS 5a maybe?

Oh yeah - the naked girls thing was completely true. I have an independent witness. :smile:

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Toby on 2003-09-01 14:52 ]</font>


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2003 14:46 
You got any pictures of the incident? :smile:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2003 15:21 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 02:00
Posts: 75
Sure some photos would be nice (hand drawn pics are Ok also).Just to prove beyond all doubt that the incident really happened you understand.

Back to the Cure
Although the start is a tricky the most problematic for me was the bouldery move to get off the second ledge (moving on the left side of a crack with a couple of jamming places above for the right hand, in other words the final tricky bit before the end). Using my Swear’O’meter (a system where you grade a route based on the amount of swearing it produces) this move is a 5a/b, making it a HVS (5). Of course I could have been swearing so much that I missed some blindingly obvious moves/holds.

Cheers,
Jody



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Jody on 2003-09-01 22:17 ]</font>


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2003 20:29 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2002 02:00
Posts: 86
Location: Grani
Hi all,
Although i havent led the Cure (second) i would say the moves were harder than grade 5-on more than one occasion, the first 5m:s and another couple of moves at middle height of the route, a 5er if you ask me.
cheers,
Erik


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2003 11:14 
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Joined: Wed Jun 12, 2002 02:00
Posts: 58
Location: Helsinki
Nyt kun itekin olen liidannut kyseisen reitin, täytyy sanoa 5. Jos vertaa esimerkiksi saman kallion syysunelmaan, joka on 5-. Syysunelma on helpompi. Mitään absoluuttistahan ei mistään ikinä voi sanoa mutta jos haluaa tehdä jotain vertailua saman kaltsin reiteistä, kyllä cure sen plussan verran on vaikeampi, (tai syysunelma 4+...).


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2003 23:27 
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Joined: Sun Aug 03, 2003 02:00
Posts: 2
Location: Sveitsi
Cure is nice 'cause there is a cure to the hard moves. In other words there is also an easy way up. Try it next time... :wink: Happy exploring!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 22, 2003 14:17 
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Joined: Mon Sep 22, 2003 02:00
Posts: 4
Location: Helsinki
I climbed Cure, Syysunelma and Keväthuuma yesterday. Cure and Keväthuuma as lead climbs and Syysunelma as second. I have to agree that Cure is harder than Syysunelma, and as to the comment that syysunelma might be just a 4+ a would like to differ. Keväthuuma is a 4+ and it is in my opinion significantly easier than Syysunelma. I feel that Cure is stiff for its grade or then there is just some magic holds that i did not find.


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