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Slouppi • View topic - Grigri

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Tue Sep 25, 2018 21:47

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 Post subject: Grigri
PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2005 09:35 
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Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2001 02:00
Posts: 298
Location: One Pint
Uskaltaako Grigrin kanssa käyttää alle 10mm köyttä. Jostain kuulin että toimii vielä 9,7 milllisellä, onko kenelläkään kokemuksia tästä?


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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2005 09:49 
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Posts: 155
Location: Oulu
Mulla on kokemuksia 10.2 millisestä bealin köydestä ja sekin on uutena niin liukas että on vaikea laskea kiipeilijää alas tasaisesti. Vaikka kahvaa kääntää kuinka varovasti niin kiipeilijä tahtoo tulla aika nopeesti alas (Tuntuu että on vain on ja off asento). Muutaman kerran ATC:llä varmistamisen jälkeen vahapinta kuluu köydestä ja sitten Grigri toimii hyvin.

Alle 10 millisiä köysiä en varmistaisi grigrillä tai ainakin on oltava tosi tarkkana kun laskee kiipeilijää alas. Tippumisessa lukitus kaiketi toimii 9,7 millisiin asti (en ole tosin testannut).


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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2005 10:04 
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Joined: Thu Feb 27, 2003 02:00
Posts: 27
Just hiljan testasin yläköysittelijän varmistamisen grigrillä ja 9,5-millisellä köydellä. Lukittui kyllä yläköysittelijän pudotessa, mutta laskeminen oli aika liukasta.


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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2005 10:15 
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Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2001 02:00
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Location: One Pint
Jep, kiitti vastauksista. Laskeminen tuskin on ongelma, ajattelin vaan että tarraako hyvin kun liidaaja tippuu. Mutta luulisi toimivan, kun näköjään Petzlin sivuilla sanotaan toimivan juuri ton 9,7millisen kanssa.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2005 11:13 
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Joined: Fri Feb 14, 2003 02:00
Posts: 301
Location: Espoo
Kyllä se stoppaa.

Mutta jämynä sen jarrukäden kanssa on oltava kun
huilaa se köysi kohtuullisen raivokkaasti ainakin uutena...

Ja älkää antako löysää sitä mustaa potikkaa painamalla. On
tontti aika lähellä, jos kiipijä sattuu klipatessaan tippumaan ja
käsi on potikalla. 20ms reagointiin, vähän aikaa tajuamiseen ja
toimimiseen. Siinä tulee kaveri äkkiä yhden 10-15m alaspäin :(


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2005 12:15 
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Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2001 02:00
Posts: 298
Location: One Pint
Niin, on vaan vähän ongelmallista syöttää sitä köyttä tarpeeksi kovalla tohinalla samaan tyyliin kuin tuubeilla. Ja jos ottaa laitteen oikeaan käteen (käsi välineen alle) ja pitää lukituspalaa pikkusormella alhaalla samalla kun antaa köyttä, niin voisin kuvitella että laite menee lukkoon. Eli pikkurillin voima ei riitä pitämään sitä palaa alhaalla.. ehkä.


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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2005 12:33 
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Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2003 02:00
Posts: 155
Location: Oulu
Usage is similar to that of conventional belay devices:
giving/taking slack is done by using both hands to slide the rope through the device, falls are held by holding the free end of the rope,
for lowering and rappelling, the rate of descent is controlled by the hand holding the free end of the rope (the rope is released with the handle).

Kannattaa katsoa tämä sivu tarkkaan:

http://www.petzl.com/ProduitsServices/G ... rience.pdf

Tästä Freinosta on luultavasti apua jos käyttää ohutta köyttä

http://www.petzl.com/petzl/SportProduit ... ssocie=486


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PostPosted: Tue May 10, 2005 12:37 
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Joined: Thu Mar 13, 2003 02:00
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Location: Oulu
Sen verran vielä että ohut ( ainakin 10.2mm ja ohuempi) köysi luistaa grigrin läpi tosi jouhevasti vaikka ei painakaan laitetta sormella samaan aikaan kun antaa köyttä.


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