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Slouppi • View topic - Stetind

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Tue Nov 13, 2018 20:43

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 Post subject: Stetind
PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 14:41 
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Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 12:26
Posts: 9
Onko kukaan käynnyt kiipeemässä South Pillaria?
Se on joutunut päiväunien kohteeksi, joten olisin kiitollinen kaikista reitin tiedoista.

Millainen on tuo vaikein reitti E1 5b (13. kp)
verrattuna johonkin Havukallion, Jaanankallion tai Olhavan reittiin?

Onko E1 vaikeasti varmistettavissa vai riittääkö että koko reitti on tasaista 5b:tä ja siitä tulee E1?

Kauanko meni:
kiipeilyssä?
alas tullessa?

topo löytyy osoitteesta
http://www.rockfax.com/publications/min ... .php?id=49


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2005 19:32 
Kyllä viime kesänä kiivettiin South pillar ei mikään vaikea reitti kunhan reitillä pysyy. Itse kiipesin vähän harhaan kun väistin märkää paikkaa ja se oli vaikein pätkä. Oikea reitti on helpompi. Vaikeustaso pahin pätkä 6- (suomi)luokkaa ja koko matkan hyvin varmistettavissa. Meillä oli jännimmät hetket alaspäin tullessa oli sen verran sumua ja sadetta. Rockfaxin topo on kyllä hyvä. E1 5b on British asteikko. Aikaa menee lähestyminen 2-3h kiipeily 10-15h alastulo 3-5h.
Huipulla on kuulemma hyvät näköalat jos on hyvä keli meillä oli näkyvyyttä huipulla 10m sen takia poistuminen oli vähän hakemista.
Jos tulet Kustavin tapaamiseen niin kuulet tarkemmin.

Juha


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 Post subject: Re: Stetind
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 10:10 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
James wrote:
Millainen on tuo vaikein reitti E1 5b (13. kp)
verrattuna johonkin Havukallion, Jaanankallion tai Olhavan reittiin?

Onko E1 vaikeasti varmistettavissa vai riittääkö että koko reitti on tasaista 5b:tä ja siitä tulee E1?


If I understand right - E1 5b could be Finnish 5+ or 6-. Routes at Olhava like Kaari, Ukkosen Johdatin, Salama and Routsalaisten Reitti would probably all be E1 5b. At Havukallio the Kanto at the right end is definitely E1 5b, and at Jaanankallio Invicta and Zombarri might be easy E1 or hard HVS (which is the grade below).

Some people I know who have done Stetind say the two 5b pitches are quite easy for the grade, so maybe like Finnish 5+ rather than 6-


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2005 20:34 
Topo väittää kiipeilyajaksi 5-6 tuntia ja se vastaa alle puolen tunnin köydenpituuksia. Käytännössä tollaset ajat ei ole mitenkään mahdottomia, mutta vaatii tottumusta ja nopeaa toimintaa.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2005 07:56 
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Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 12:26
Posts: 9
Thank you for your very informative answers!

J.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2005 21:05 
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Joined: Sun May 11, 2003 02:00
Posts: 335
Location: Hki/Tku
Reitin keskivaiheilla on joitain köydenpituuksia jotka voi hyvin kiivetä juoksevilla varmistuksilla. Topoonkin ne on kait merkattu tyyliin. kp. x1 kiipeä halkeamia ylös.. kp x2: ja lisää.. kp x3 Ja vielä lisää halkeamia.. Sieltä voi sitä nopeutta kerätä. :)

Kyllähän tuon reitin voi hyvin tehdä meno-paluuna kymmeneen tuntiin, mutta on muistettava että se vaatii hyvää reitinlukusilmää jo lähestymisenkin osalta. Ja reitillä on kuitenkin korkeuseroa ylöspäin (lähestymisineen) 1400 metriä. Että vaikka kiipeily on sinänsä teknisesti helppoa, kannattaa kuitenkin kiivetä ainakin kourallinen pienempiä reittejä ennen stetindiä. Tuolta kun on jo piiiitkä ja vaikea taival alas jos reitiltä joutuu ottamaan pakit... Ja ne ledget on sitten pelottavan näköisiä. Sellaisia kapeita, viistoja ja likaisia "hyllyjä". Itse en ainakaan niiden varaan paljoa laskisi. Helpoin reitti pois tuolta seinämältä taitaa olla kiivetä se loppuun. Kannattaa pitää mielessä jos tulee reitin puolivälin jälkeen ongelmia..


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 Post subject: Stetind
PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2005 08:22 
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Joined: Sat Jun 18, 2005 08:17
Posts: 1
Location: riga
Hi,



Is there any other information available on Nordostpilaren and Noredveggen routes on Stetind besides schemes on internet ? I mean quality of rock and route, access - is it worth doing it.have not heard anybody writing about climbing it. We are planning a trip by end of july and would like to get more information.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2005 10:31 
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Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 23:18
Posts: 18
Have not been there myself but some norwegians here describe the nordveggen as "crab" and østveggen som "hoppebakke"- skijump. They recommend the south pillar.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 29, 2005 08:31 
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Joined: Fri Jun 14, 2002 02:00
Posts: 12
Steepstonessa oli tällainen linkki, jos et vielä ole törmännyt.

http://www.summitpul.se/homepage.html

Kohtuullisia kuvia South Pillarista.


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