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Slouppi • View topic - steep problem at solstugan? Åland

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Sat Sep 22, 2018 05:59

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 Post subject: steep problem at solstugan? Åland
PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2005 19:06 
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Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2005 18:41
Posts: 4
Location: Stockholm
There is a problem in a small erea on Åland I think its called solstugan?you turn off about 5km before Geta and drive through a small farm. The problem its self is on the biggest block there on a 45 overhanging wall. it starts on small holds high up you pull on then slap to the left arete drop into another small hold then go again with the left hand to a good edge over the lip and hold the swing,then its over.
I was wondering if anyone knows the name and the grade to the problem?. I was there with Erik M and he said the stand up was 7c+/8a?
Would be great if anyone could help
thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jul 12, 2005 07:48 
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2001 02:00
Posts: 228
Location: Helsinki
The place is called Kasviken and the problem is quite likely Dodo. The sit start from the very obvious crack is around 8b. I can´t find any info on the grade of the standing version but I think Erik´s suggestion is guite right.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2005 23:28 
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Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2005 18:41
Posts: 4
Location: Stockholm
Thanks a lot. Will have to go and try the sit down when the weather is a bit cooler! it looks quite a bit harder though. you got any beta?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2005 07:47 
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2001 02:00
Posts: 228
Location: Helsinki
I´ve got beta on how not to do it ;) It´s way too hard for me.

The first method that was tried was to lieback the crack, then traverse the very slopery shelf to the left until you could reach the standing starts right hand crimp. From there it is "possible" to somehow get the left hand to the arete.

Some new method was found this spring that made the problem possible. I think that you must climb a little higher from the crack. There are some small edges that can be used to do the traverse left slightly above the shelf. Some weird foot work may be necessary.

The standing start seems to get full 8a on this side of the pond.


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2005 15:39 
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Joined: Mon Jul 11, 2005 18:41
Posts: 4
Location: Stockholm
Thanks again.I think I know the method it looked the most possible way when we looked. :roll: I might see you in Åland some time?


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2005 20:47 
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2001 02:00
Posts: 228
Location: Helsinki
I´ll likely go there again next spring. Some many places to visit and too short vacation.


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