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Slouppi • View topic - Trad Rules - Luhti

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Tue Sep 25, 2018 21:18

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 Post subject: Trad Rules - Luhti
PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 12:14 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Has anyone else done this (or, perhaps, like me hasn't done this) route? I tried toproping it on saturday and I couldn't even do all the moves. It's a wonderful route but it definitely isn't 5+ (whether that be French or Finnish 5+). I can lead onsight most 5+ routes and a lot of 6- routes as well - so I reckon Trad Rules is more like Finnish 6.

Anyone thinking of trying to solo it (there are some but not many gear placements on it) may well want to know this so they don't get a nasty shock! :o

An excellent effort by chaps who soloed the first ascent!


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 13:00 
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Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2002 02:00
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I did this on my first visit.

Nice route, the name suits the route perfect. I did not feel it was so difficult, it felt slightly easier as Keema, even if gearplacements were "peculiar".


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 14:32 
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Location: Vantaa
How much gear did you find Pete? There are a few possible placements I saw, but it would still be a bold lead. Is there enough to stop the possibility of groundfall from every point on the route?

It's not my favourite style of climbing (no cracks) but even still I would expect to make it up a 5+ normally, particularly when just trying it on a top rope. I did Namula again on saturday and that seems like normal 5+ to me. I perhaps shouldn't compare Trad Rules to Keema as I only got this far on my onsight attempt at Keema: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=30726 before falling (my excuse is that I didn't have a cam big enough to protect the top so got scared and jumped whilst I still could - a poor excuse I know :lol: next summer... next summer... ) but Keema felt much more 'doable' to me and that is given 6b in the guide, not 5+.

Luhti is a great crag - but people should take care as there is loose rock around still. We pulled a large block off "Pienenlainen pettymys". Helmets are probably a good idea, particularly for the belayer.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 14:49 
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Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2002 02:00
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I must say, I do not remember much about gear.

Maybe this could be 6-, in Kustavi this would be 5- or 5 :lol: Personally I think sandbagging is bloody stupid and even dangerous but in Luhti I did not see any of that.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 15:51 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Pete wrote:
Maybe this could be 6-, in Kustavi this would be 5- or 5 :lol:


The grades at Hopiavuori in Kustavi seemed perfect to me, I led two 5+s and 5 there and they all seemed very 'normal' for the grade - perhaps Kräkiniemi is harder... but I luuuurvvveee cracks! :D

Quote:
Personally I think sandbagging is bloody stupid and even dangerous but in Luhti I did not see any of that.


Agreed. Perhaps I should say then that Trad Rules is a total sandbag for untalented-British-crack-climbers-who-never-train-at-the-wall-due-to-working-too-much-and-having-a-small-baby. If you fit this category - take care! :wink:


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 Post subject: Re: Trad Rules - Luhti
PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 16:08 
Toby wrote:
Has anyone else done this (or, perhaps, like me hasn't done this) route? I tried toproping it on saturday and I couldn't even do all the moves.

There's one long reach in there. It might be a bit morpho if you don't have much shoulder power.

The route was graded 5 once I led it. There's now good protection (ie. mid size camalot) available for the crux if you go a bit to the left. The slot was previously full of dirt, though. It was more "interesting" at those times... :D


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 Post subject: Re: Trad Rules - Luhti
PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 18:48 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Sampsa J. wrote:
There's one long reach in there. It might be a bit morpho if you don't have much shoulder power.


I know where you mean - my mate did the whole route with ease, he's shorter than me but much stronger. I was having to dyno - well slap more accurately - for the hold good hold near the top and still couldn't do it.

I'm a bit confused whether the sub 6 grades on the Luhti topo are meant to be Finnish or French - although maybe Finnish and French 5+ is roughly the same - but I'm still certain I've never done a Finnish 5+ that feels anything like that hard - and I've done a lot of them!

My mate who cruised Trad Rules fell off leading Namula later in the day (which I onsighted) so that made me feel much better. :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 10, 2005 19:02 
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Joined: Fri May 10, 2002 02:00
Posts: 1001
Location: Imatra
in think the trad game in finland is usually graded in the finnish way and sport climbing according to our beloved french friends.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 08:25 
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Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2001 02:00
Posts: 298
Location: One Pint
Toby wrote:
Pete wrote:
Maybe this could be 6-, in Kustavi this would be 5- or 5 :lol:


The grades at Hopiavuori in Kustavi seemed perfect to me, I led two 5+s and 5 there and they all seemed very 'normal' for the grade - perhaps Kräkiniemi is harder... but I luuuurvvveee cracks! :D


Grading in Kustavi was small disappointment. I had heard rumours about really crazy grades, but to us they seemed quite "normal". Lack of safety of course adds some intensity.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 11:50 
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Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 144
VilleF wrote:
[
Grading in Kustavi was small disappointment. I had heard rumours about really crazy grades, but to us they seemed quite "normal". Lack of safety of course adds some intensity.


What the hell do you mean?? Disappointment :o

I think it is great, if you felt the grades were ok. How can anyone be disappointed if grades feel right?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 12:18 
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Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2001 02:00
Posts: 298
Location: One Pint
Ok, maybe disappointed was not the right word, but still grading was not that tough as we thought it would be. So maybe people have exaggerated it a bit.

Regardeless of grading, routes were really fine, and what was even better, was the topo. Description of routes were almost poetic, and symbols desribing securing of routes were perfect.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 18:36 
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Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2002 02:00
Posts: 161
On my first visit to Luhti, in the summer of 2004, I attempted to onsight Trad Rules. Figured it couldn't be too hard since the grade was 5, according to a topo I got from somewhere. Somehow I had forgotten it was also marked with a V. So I went for it as the first route of the day.

Didn't get very far before I realized that I was pumped, couldn't move up or down and had yet to place my first piece. I attempted several different moves to get to a better position, but always ended up back to where I was, with my hands on the large horizontal crack or ledge, with my feet about two to three meters from the ground. Hung on there until my hands finally gave up and took my first and so far only ground fall. Luckily my partner was ready and he spotted me so that I didn't fall on my back and I even came out practically unhurt which can be considered very lucky since the landing zone is not safe as anyone who's been there knows.

Don't know about the grade and don't even care too much, but I'll say this: avoid getting into situations like that at any cost. Climbing or any other sport is not worth getting seriously hurt.

Ossi

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 11, 2005 21:14 
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Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
unlord wrote:
Hung on there until my hands finally gave up and took my first and so far only ground fall. Luckily my partner was ready and he spotted me so that I didn't fall on my back and I even came out practically unhurt which can be considered very lucky since the landing zone is not safe as anyone who's been there knows.


It's a horrible landing! Your a lucky (although some might say stupid :wink: ) guy! Cool story.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2005 12:09 
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Joined: Sun May 11, 2003 02:00
Posts: 335
Location: Hki/Tku
Trad Rules is a really nice route. Beatiful arete with nice moves. I onsighted it this summer and i felt it has quite good protection. I thought it has bad placements, and put in a lot gear because i thought it would not be possible in all places.

If I remember right I was able to put in at least five pieces. Four of them were good, and one "not so good" nut for protecting the start. And just in case, I also used douple ropes. So, I felt it is quite well protected. Might be Pro3/apina in Kustavi?

Trad rules. :)


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