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Slouppi • View topic - Varmistuslaitteet

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Sat Nov 17, 2018 08:20

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 Post subject: Varmistuslaitteet
PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 16:34 
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Joined: Tue Feb 28, 2006 12:51
Posts: 9
Location: Helsinki
Ajattelin opettaa tyttöystävää kiipeileen ja mietin tässä vähän, että mikä olisi paras varmistuslaite, kun meillä on sellanen 30 kiloo painoeroa.

Onko mahdollista, että hän pystyisy varmistamaan minua normaalilla atc:llä vai onko periaatteessa pakko ostaa grigri, jotta ei tarvis henkensä edestä pelätä? :o


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 19:12 
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Joined: Fri Dec 28, 2001 02:00
Posts: 56
Location: Kulosaari, Helsinki
Henkilökohtainen mielipiteeni on että ATC tyylisellä on parasta aloittaa. Kannattaa osta sellainen jossa on isompi kitka kuten ATC XP, etenkin jos sulla on laiha köysi ja kun teillä on iso painoero. Varmistushanskaa kandee vakavasti harkita ja on must jos käytätte ohutta köyttä.

Kun varmistus on hanskassa niin siinä vaiheessa kandee harkita jotain GriGriä tms.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Mar 07, 2006 21:04 
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Joined: Fri May 10, 2002 02:00
Posts: 1001
Location: Imatra
liidaillessa vaimo 55kg on varmistanut mua, kun painoin vielä 100kg, eikä dropeissakaan ilmaan aina noussut. yläköydellä normaali-atc:llä kun olin 110kg möykky. tykkää xp:stä enemmän kuin tavallisesta. hommaa se.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2006 08:12 
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Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 20:14
Posts: 46
----


Last edited by TuoppiM on Sat Apr 29, 2006 09:00, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 08, 2006 12:36 
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Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 10:54
Posts: 59
Ennen todellista koitosta kannattaa hyppiä köyteen ja muutenkin leikkiä tarpeeksi jotta uusi varmistaja tottuu laitteisiin ja pomppuihin, eikä säikähdä kun singahtaa ilmaan. Sitäpaitsi leikkiminen on kivaa. :D

Muistakaa että kitka on aivan erilainen eri reiteillä. (Jossain enemmän ja jossain vähemmän ropedragia.)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 13, 2006 12:13 
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Joined: Tue Feb 28, 2006 12:51
Posts: 9
Location: Helsinki
Jees.. Kiitos vinkeistä. Ostin ATC XP:n ja hyvin toimii!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 04:27 
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Joined: Sat Jul 29, 2006 15:11
Posts: 10
no nostetaas pinnalle, kun tulee uutta kamaa markkinoille:
mitäs mieltä ootte tosta black diamondin atc guide:sta uus?
tai trango b-52? sori tätä seuraavaa tyhmää kysymystä, en ole kauheesti ollu mukana: niin mitä se ''nykyaikainen autoblock ominaisuus'' sitten tarkoittaa vai onko tämä myyjän myyntipuhetta? eli kumpi noista kannattais ostaa?
kiitän vastauksista
:wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 06:20 
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Joined: Fri May 12, 2006 15:18
Posts: 27
Location: Helsinki
Ei se mitään mainospuhetta ole. Kumpikin laite on atc:n tapainen, ja ne voi tarvittaessa virittää yhden ylimääräisen sulkkarin avulla lukitusmoodiin. Käyttöohjeissa tarkemmin :) Käyttökokemusta ei juuri ole joten en lähde vertailemaan.

Miten erikoinen tuo ominaisuus sitten on, niin yllämainituissa, Petzl:n Reversossa, Simondin Toucanissa ja muutamassa muussa homma toimii täysin samalla periaatteella, vaikka laitteet ovatkin erinäköisiä. Tavallisen kasinkin voi virittää samalla tavalla lukittuvaksi, tosin toimii kunnolla vain sopivan paksuisilla köysillä(riippuu kasin pienemmän reiän mudosta).


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2006 06:59 
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Joined: Thu Jun 20, 2002 02:00
Posts: 24
Ja se autoblock toimii ylhäältäpäin yläköydessä suoraan ankkurista varmistettaessa. Tai siis niin se on suunniteltu...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2006 19:00 
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Joined: Wed May 31, 2006 20:17
Posts: 8
Jos meinaa et kitka ei riitä niin reversoa voi ainakin käyttää kahden sulkkarin kanssa niin saa enemmän kitkaa varmistuslaitteeseen.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2006 00:12 
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Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2005 10:51
Posts: 18
kokemuksia ATC-guidesta?


http://www.bdel.com/gear/atc_guide.php



t


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2006 08:24 
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Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 10:59
Posts: 2
Location: Helsinki
tiemus wrote:
kokemuksia ATC-guidesta?


Olen käyttänyt ATC-guidea 8,6mm tuplaköyden kanssa vasta muutaman kerran, mutta olen ollut toistaiseksi ihan tyytyväinen. Otettu ko. konfiguraatiolla vastaan mm. 6m sturtsi (toiseksi ylin pala 1,5m alempana kuin ylin).

Mulla oli vaikeuksia löytää varmistuslaite tuon paksuiselle köydelle, koska reversino on mielestäni hiukan liian tiukka ja reverso puolestaan ei pure tarpeeksi lujaa. Guide tuntuu purevan kohtuullisesti 8,6mm köyteen. Kannattaa tietenkin käyttää varmistaessa vaikka hanskaa ja/tai kahta sulkkaria jos tuntuu siltä että köydet ei mahd. isossa sturtsissa pysy lapasessa.

t. Esa


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