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Slouppi • View topic - Köysistä

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Mon Nov 19, 2018 11:52

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2002 20:26 
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Joined: Fri Apr 26, 2002 02:00
Posts: 1
Location: Kilo, Espoo
Olen vasta aloittanut kiipeilyharrastuksen seinäkiipeilyllä. Koska kesä on tulossa, olisi kiva päästä myös kalliolle, joten pitäisi hankkia vähän lisävarusteita. Etenkin köyden valinnan kanssa on epäselvyyksiä. Minulle on suositeltu staattisen köyden hankkimista. Toisaalta kirjoissa sanotaan, että kiipeillessä (myös yläköysi-sellaisessa) olisi parasta käyttää dynaamista köyttä... Mitä siis pitäisi tehdä?

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 26, 2002 21:30 
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Joined: Thu Feb 14, 2002 02:00
Posts: 33
Ihan vihjeeksi vaan; Rakassa keskustellaan juuri samasta asiasta.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Remu on 2002-04-26 22:30 ]</font>


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2002 09:04 
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2001 02:00
Posts: 129
Location: Porvoo
Rakan keskustelupalstan sisältö, ja osittain myös ton treadin sisältö on kyllä "aika" hanurista, kuten yleensä. Kyllä siellä muutama ihan relevantti kommentti oli

>>> (semi)staattinen köysi käypi yläköysittelyyn/laskeutumiseen muttei liidaukseen. En tiedä ketään joka kiipeäisi enemmän, joka ei omista/joskus ole omistanut dynaamista köyttä (monet nykyään vaan boulderoi). Ja niin piitkä sellainen kun kukkaro vaan sallii (55-60m), jos aiot alkaa kiipeämään aktiivisemmin. Toisaalta hyvin harva omistaa pitempiä semistaattisia köysiä...

Toki voithan sä ostaa jonkun 20-30 metrisen semistaattisen köyden matalia kallioita varten, mut sillä köydellä ei kyllä te hevonv---uakaan jos aiot joskus liidata.

Noista eri snöörimerkkien iskuvoimista väittely on sama kun väittelisi jostain kesärenkaiden pintakuvion vaikutuksesta pitoon soratiellä, varmaankin tosi olennaista tietää jokaselle.

Köysien kulutuskesto on ihan relevanttia, mutta ne mitkä kestää hyvin kulutusta (Mammut, Edelweiss) maksavat myös aika paljon. Joten mieti paljonko meinaat kiivetä/paljonko kukkarosta löytyy rahaa. Eikä 40% kalliimpi köysi aina tarkoita että se kestää 40% pidempään...

Toi rakan threadin sonnan vois kiteyttää suunnilleen näin, mutta silloin ei tietenkään pystyis väittelee nippelitiedoista.

Tässä pitkälti vaan omia mielipiteitä ja mähän en oo mikään köysiekspertti. Lopetan saaarnan tähän kun ei tässä oikeastaan paljon oo järkeä enempää väitellä :smile:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2002 09:37 
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Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2001 02:00
Posts: 73
Location: hki.
Vaikka keskittyisit aluksi pelkästään yläköysittelyyn,on dynaamiseen köyteen huomattavasti miellyttävämpi tippua.
Kun kesän mittaan nälkä lisääntyy ja jatkot on hankittu niin periaatteessa ns.normaalikulutuksella köyden pitäisi taipua ekoille ja vielä tokillekin liideille.Jos staattisen köyden ostat, niin tässä vaiheessa on yleensä dynaamisen osto edessä.

Valmistajien sivulla ylistävät kilvan jokainen omia tuotteitaan, linkit löytyvät mm.alan liikkeiden sivuilta, joissa myös hinnastot hintavertailulle.


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