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Slouppi • View topic - Pieni suomalainen big wall-historia

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Mon Sep 24, 2018 21:36

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 Post subject: Pieni suomalainen big wall-historia
PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2006 12:41 
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Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 06:08
Posts: 45
Olemme keränneet listan suomalaisten tekemistä big wall-nousuista. Pyydämme apuasi listan tietojen päivittämiseen ja listalta puuttuvien nousujen raportointiin. Lista vielä aika tynkä, joten olisimme todella kiitollisia kaikista tiedoista. Toistaiseksi olemme pitäytyneet puhtaasti ns. grade 5/6 big wall:ssa. Eli vapaissa- ja teknisissä yli yhden yön kiipeilynousuissa. Listalta ei siis löydy päivä alppinousuja tai talvisia alppinousuja.

Käy katsomassa lista: http://www.openworld.fi/blog/?page_id=112


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2006 12:48 
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Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 17:46
Posts: 129
Tuoreeltaan:

Johannes "Jose" Kärkkäinen (SAKE) soitteli eilen iltapäivällä Stora Blåmannenin huipulta, rapiat kolme päivää kestäneen soolo-nousun jälkeen. En nyt muista mikä reitti oli kyseessä, mutta eiköhän sekin kohtapuoleen selviä...


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2006 16:16 
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Posts: 12
JJH wrote:
Tuoreeltaan:

Johannes "Jose" Kärkkäinen (SAKE) soitteli eilen iltapäivällä Stora Blåmannenin huipulta, rapiat kolme päivää kestäneen soolo-nousun jälkeen. En nyt muista mikä reitti oli kyseessä, mutta eiköhän sekin kohtapuoleen selviä...


Sain soiton myös huipulta. Kyseessä on reitti Ultima Thule 350 m A1/A2. Reittiä on yritetty aikaisemminkin suomalaisten toimesta, mutta en ole varma onko topattu ennemmin. Mutta onnea Joselle!

Ilkka


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2006 18:36 
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Joined: Fri Apr 26, 2002 02:00
Posts: 276
Hieno homma! Saattaa muuten olla jopa reitin yksi varhaisista toistoista, ehkä jopa toinen-kolmas? JA vielä soolona!

Omien tietojeni mukaan Johanneksen reissu oli kolmas seinämän suomalaisnousu, joka on aika vähän kahdeksan vuoden aikana... Sen verran aikaa on jo Suomi-ensinoususta...


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2006 18:43 
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Tässä vielä Mårten Blixtin ylläpitämät Blåmann-sivut:

http://www.blixt.no/KvaloyaArchives/index.html


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2006 19:22 
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Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2002 02:00
Posts: 161
Minäkin sain soiton Joselta, tällä kertaa se oli jo tien varressa yrittämässä kyydin liftaamista Tromssaan (saisko siitä sitten vielä jonkun lisäyksen greidiin tyyliin "vaikea lähestyminen perusleiriin ja takaisin"?). Eli joka tapauksessa laskeutuminenkin oli mennyt putkeen, vaikka olikin kuulemma kohtuullisen hankalaa, kun polku ei ole mikään helppo ja kamat piti kaikki kantaa itse pois.

Ehdottoman hieno suoritus siis!

T: Ossi

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2006 20:27 
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Joined: Mon Oct 20, 2003 02:00
Posts: 69
Ai vaikea lähestyminen? Alunperin mies oli menossa fillarilla Hgistä seinälle eestaas. Tyyliin "Sain lainattua sellaisen ihan hyvän crescentin ja kärryt teen ite". Saatiin sen verran järkeä päähän, että meni julkisilla.

Nousun aikana tänne putoili enemmän tai vähemmän sekavia testareita, järjestään joskus 4 aikaan aamuyöstä. Vika puristus oli kuulemma kestänyt 40 tuntia (!). Siinäpä meille toimistonahjuksille vähän reflektoitavaa.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 22, 2006 20:53 
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Posts: 161
Niin, tosiasiassa polkupyöräajatus taisi hyytyä ajanpuutteeseen. Muutenhan Jose olis varmaan hoitanut senkin osuuden.

Ja on toi silti astetta hankalampaa julkisilla, kuin että lainataan jonkun tuttavan asuntoauto, ajetaan jonkun kuuluisan seinämän läheisyyteen ja todetaan kolmen unelmakelissä kiivetyn kp:n jälkeen, että turpaan tuli, takaisin asuntoautoon. Nimim: näinkin on tapahtunut, ja sillä reissulla yksi kolmesta makuupussista unohtui reitin juurelle ja jouduin nukkumaan autossa ilman makkaria ja tulin kipeäksi, vaikken ollutkaan se, joka makuupussin unohti. Kiipeilijöitä on eritasoisia...

T: Ossi

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 23, 2006 08:06 
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Joined: Tue Apr 11, 2006 16:56
Posts: 50
unlord wrote:
Kiipeilijöitä on eritasoisia...


Jep. Kyllähän tämä taas kipeästi muistutti siitä, että olen läski, mukavuudenhaluinen, laiska nynnerö.

Raivoisasti karjuen: HYVÄ JOSEEE!


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2006 10:29 
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Joined: Mon May 22, 2006 17:31
Posts: 5
Location: Stadi
Rock on, Jose! Hyvin tehty. Itse aion Thulelle ens kesänä, mutta tuskin soolona... :o :o

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