On 2002-05-27 10:11, jmakinen wrote:
I don't see the bad bolting argument. The single bolt was well placed. My preference on this route goes to no bolts at all.
Henkka rebolted the route so the question is not about the desire to overbolt but rather to please the beginners. It isn't a classic.
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: jmakinen on 2002-05-27 10:21 ]</font>
I agree that no bolts would be best, but I guess there is no going back.
Who decides on what is a classic? When I first led it I remember being really pleased, if you lead to around that grade as I do, the couple of moves up to the old bolt where quite committing and as a result the route will 'stay with you'. The route is quite unique in the Helsinki area, I can't think of any other balancy slab routes like that.
I don't really get the 'beginner' argument. First of all most beginners only seem to top rope anyway, and also shouldn't there be some 'head' routes for all grades? If anyone (beginner or crappy vetran like me) doesn't want to take the risk why can't they just top-rope it?
I know the route is hardly a world classic, but in its old state it was one of those climbs that was a 'little adventure', something to exercise your heart and mind rather than just your muscles. That's what makes climbing the best sport in the world. If there is no adventure its just like going to a gym in pretty surroundings.