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Slouppi • View topic - Kvarnby: Fizroy - tai paluu Fizroyhin

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Wed Nov 14, 2018 19:36

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PostPosted: Mon May 27, 2002 12:11 
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Joined: Thu May 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 50
Location: Helsinki/Turku
Onko kellään mielipidettä ko. reitin greidistä. Käytiin eilen testailemassa ja topon 6+ tuntuu rankasti alimitoitetulta varsinkin, kun luonnollisella osuudella ei hyviä varmistuspaikkoja liiemmin ole. Oma arvioni olisi lähempänä seiska.

Kuinka moni ylipäätään on liidannut Kvarnbyn klassikoita (majavan paluu, lepakkomiehen frendi tai Fizroy) viimeisen vuoden aikana? Ovat todella hienoja reittejä, mutta (korjatkaa, jos olen väärässä) näkevät säälittävän vähän liidejä.


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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2002 10:32 
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Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 144
Back to fitzroy ei ole 6+, on varmaan jäänyt jostain vanhasta teknisestä greidistä esim. 6+/A1 tai jotain. On vapaasti varmasti vaikeampi.
Kvarnbyn klassikot eivät fyysisiltä vaatimuksiltaan ole kovinkaan kummoisia mutta henkistä painetta liidi varmasti aiheuttaa useimmilla. Kynnys lähteä liidiin on suuri mutta nautinto onnistuneen suorituksen jälkeen sitäkin parempi. Vähän sama kuin Pickalan sekavarmistusreitit, jotka ovat teknisesti vielä selvästi vaativampia. Suosittelen muuten käymään sielläkin, yläköysiankkuri löytyy joka reitille.


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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2002 12:47 
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Joined: Thu May 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 50
Location: Helsinki/Turku
Mikä olisi Pete sun arvio siitä greidistä vapaasti kiivettynä? Entä muiden?

Tiedetään, ettei greidi ole tärkeä vaan fiilis, mutku mutku...

...se on NIIN pahasti pielessä, ehdotan edelleen väh. 7 vapaasti suoritettuna. Tylyttäkää, jos on pielessä.


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PostPosted: Tue May 28, 2002 13:19 
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Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2001 02:00
Posts: 208
Location: Metsola, Kotka
En ole liidannut BtF:ta joten olen väärä henkilö sanomaan greidistä mitään varmaa. Voin kuitenkin antaa vaatimattoman arvioni sillä kiipesin reitin yläköydellä pari viikkoa sitten. Greidi sijoittunee 7/7+ hujakoille.

Reitti on selvästi morpho eli kruksi on lyhyelle jopa mahdoton. Pitempi vääntäjä sen sijaan voi pitää helpompana. Hyvää on-sight kamaa sillä kruksia edeltää suhteellisen hyvät otteet ja pultti on hyvässä paikassa. Harmittaa ettei tullut yritettyä on-saittia mutta pääsi kyllä liidattavien listalle saman tien:-)


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