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Slouppi • View topic - Info on suitable Ice climbing locations please

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Wed Sep 19, 2018 14:42

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 Post subject: Info on suitable Ice climbing locations please
PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 16:39 
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 14:11
Posts: 4
Location: England
Hi all,

Please could anyone advise me on suitable ice climbing locations, in the Tampere to Helsinki / Kukkunommi areas. Last year I did my first routes at Helvetinjärvi ? ( approx 100km north of Helsinki ? ) with my son-in-law Saku. It was a small venue, with only a few routes, but was easy access ( 800m from the car ) and it was a good introduction ( even if it was -20'C )

I am coming to Tampere in 2 weeks with a friend and want to do some more interesting and bigger routes etc... at a number of different locations. I'm very interested in finding locations within say 80km of Tampere.

I know Nuuksio is also supposed to be really good, with lots of mixed routes and many ice routes, BUT its a big National Park area and i would need a good map & topo's to find suitable routes so as not to spend most of the day walking through the forest looking for routes. :-?

Any help greatly appreciated. Particularly maps / topos / pictures etc.

( by-the-way - i do have a copy of the Finnish climbing guide book, which i use in the summer when i visit & try to do a bit of climbing )

cheers

Steve


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:21 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
I'm afraid the ice doesn't get much higher than Helvetinjärvi unless you are willing to Kourouma (almost in Lapland) which is a hell of drive from Tampere - 400 mile+ at a rough guess.

Nuuksio is reliable but it's not that extensive most of the routes being around the same size as Helvetinjärvi although some are steeper. It's really easy to find as you just walk across the lake (west) from the carpark at the sports centre at Solvalla and then north up the western shore until you see the ice. It's a 10 minute stroll. There is a sketch map here: http://www.mountainshop.fi/topos/pictures/nuuksio2.gif (Jääkiipeilypaikat = ice climbing place)

There aren't really any topos for Finnish ice falls. In the south they are only half a rope long so just see if you like the look of them and try them out.


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 Post subject: Nuuksio routes
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 19:28 
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 14:11
Posts: 4
Location: England
Toby,

Thanks a lot for the reply ..... very helpful, also had a good look at your Nuuksio photo's etc. on UK climbing; will re-visit and score some 5's :wink:

A few more questions if you don't mind please........

Is Solvallen the place where there is a small ski slope with a single lift ? i think i've driven past it when doing some summer routes at Nuuksio at ???? ( can't remember ? )

What area is the route one-point-gulley in ?

I note there is another area over at Kauhala ( presumably a 20km drive around or so ? ) and have seen your pics of a left & right hand fall ? where are these exactly ? and is there routes at Saa Seina and Kesakii Peilykallia ? or are they all one & the same ?

& finally ....... Where are Vasen Soura & Oikea Suora ?

thats all

thanks a lot for your help, Steve


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 Post subject: Re: Nuuksio routes
PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2007 09:59 
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Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2002 02:00
Posts: 238
UKbikersteve wrote:
A few more questions if you don't mind please........

Is Solvallen the place where there is a small ski slope with a single lift ? i think i've driven past it when doing some summer routes at Nuuksio at ???? ( can't remember ? )


Yep, though there is now 2 lifts :lol:

UKbikersteve wrote:
What area is the route one-point-gulley in ?


One-point-gully is a prominent groove up on the southern "cliff"

UKbikersteve wrote:
& finally ....... Where are Vasen Soura & Oikea Suora ?


Oikea (=Right) Suora is in Nuuksio, on the northern "cliff" (ie. also on lookers right).


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 Post subject: Nuuksio sorted - RUOVEDEN still not clear on location
PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 19:14 
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 14:11
Posts: 4
Location: England
Kittos HeMa,

Many thanks for the info on Nuuksio, i think I have now got the locations for Solvallan & Kauhala sorted and may see some of you there on Saturday ?

Unfortunately I am not so clear on RUOVEDEN ? :-?

there appears to be two separate locations HELVETINJÄRVI and KALLIOJÄRVI; they both appear to be north of Tampere off of Route 66 to Ruovesi. They must be quite close to one another ??
I have been to one of these locations before, i think it was KALLIOJÄRVI as there was some easy angled ice there ( 50 / 60' ) and it was only a 600m walk from the road ( we parked at a T junction ) & it looks like the location sketch available on this link ( http://www.mountainshop.fi/topos/kallioj.jpg ) BUT i have been using the Finnish Citizens Mapsite to locate the exact place and have problems matching the map info I get back from the Citizens Mapsite.
When i search on Ruoveden, & select Ruovenlahti, Ruovesi, I get a great detailed map ( http://kansalaisen.karttapaikka.fi/kart ... lang=en-GB ) and then when I scroll down twice, I get this map ( http://kansalaisen.karttapaikka.fi/kart ... lang=en-GB ) ...... and ....... I think the crag is shown at approx the 2.00 o'clock position on the right of the map ?? is this correct ?? :roll:


As for HELVETINJÄRVI ..... please does anyone have a sketch for the location of this place ? as when I search using the Finnish Citizens Mapsite, I get some place south east of Tampere which is obviously quite wrong ? :-?

Many thanks for any assistance
Steve


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 27, 2007 19:39 
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Joined: Sun May 11, 2003 02:00
Posts: 335
Location: Hki/Tku
http://kansalaisen.karttapaikka.fi/kart ... lang=en-GB

This is Helvetinjärvi and icefalls. Maybe the easiest way to get to the cliffs is from road at the north end of the lake. It is not in winter use, you have to walk last part. Remember to park your car well, out of way of the local people. :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:43 
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Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 14:11
Posts: 4
Location: England
Kittos Pauli,

excellent link, now know exactly where Iso Helventinjarvi is, all i hope now is NOT to get lost on Friday finding it :lol:

As for Kalliojarvi - now also sorted ..... the locations & links I asked about were the WRONG place ..... a different Kalliojarvi :-? .... anyway this is the correct Kalliojarvi .......

http://kansalaisen.karttapaikka.fi/kart ... &map.y=210

this correlates exactly with the location map / sketch

thanks again
Steve
( aka ... "i will get the hang of these Finnish place names" .... )


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 10:27 
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Joined: Sun May 11, 2003 02:00
Posts: 335
Location: Hki/Tku
This is for finns:

Does anyone know about bolted routes at Ruovesi area? Could someone give some information?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2007 22:31 
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Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2005 23:51
Posts: 56
Location: Turku
Muistaakseni ne ovat Sampsa Jyrkkysen käsialaa. Asia tuli esiin Kustavin kiipeilypäivillä. Sampsa korjaa, jos olen väärässä.

Edit (translation): If I remember right those routes are made by Sampsa Jyrkkynen. Correct me Sampsa if I am wrong.

_________________
Hei, vähän lisää vauhtia, Alpeilla me oltais jo kuoltu.
http://www.kruxi.fi/docs/topo/kalliot/index.html


Last edited by Eljas H-H on Fri Mar 02, 2007 21:36, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 10:25 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Sorry I hadn't checked back for ages but it looks like you have all the info now. If it helps at all there is a map link to Kauhala at: http://www.ukclimbing.com/databases/cra ... ml?id=2165 Park at the junction by the towerbuilding of the farm about 500 mtrs before the crag. The locals got upset by people parking right in front of the crag.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2007 12:03 
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Joined: Sun May 11, 2003 02:00
Posts: 335
Location: Hki/Tku
There is also a real parking place what should be used when visiting kauhala. It is marked with P-sign and the walk is not long from there.


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