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Slouppi • View topic - Kvarnby: Majavan paluu

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Sat Nov 17, 2018 09:29

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 06, 2002 13:18 
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Joined: Thu May 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 50
Location: Helsinki/Turku
Olisiko kellään antaa betaa Majavan paluusta, jos vaikka joskus olisin niin rohkia, että ihan liidaamaan uskaltaisin.

Eli, mitä ja minkä kokoista tavaraa reitille olette saaneet ja minkälaisia varmistusvälejä tuli? ...niin ja ennen kaikkea, millä ihmeessä saatte laitettua ne rojut siinä layback asennossa?

Syvään kumartaen
Meitsi


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2002 08:12 
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Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2001 02:00
Posts: 298
Location: One Pint
Kiipesin Majavan paluun joskus yläköydellä, ja muistelisin että siinä todellakin oli megaraskasta laybackvääntöä. Jos aiot yrittää liidausta, kannattaa ehdottomasti tulla, jos mahdollista, molempien jalkojen päälle seisomaan varmistuksia laittaessa. Seinä on melko positiivinen ja halkeaman ulkopolelta luultavasti löytyy kohtuullisia jalkaotteita. Ellet mistään saa tietoa siitä mitä rojua halkeamaan saa laitettua, voi varmistukset laittaa myös etukäteen ylhäältä päin..


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2002 09:08 
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Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2001 02:00
Posts: 208
Location: Metsola, Kotka
Liidasin reitin noin 6 vuotta sitten joten en muista tarkkaan tarvittavia 'geareja'. Ellei kyseessä ole onsight, on hyvä taktiikka laskeutua ja katsoa sopivan kokoiset kiilat/frendit parhaisiin varmistuspaikkoihin. Sitten vain laskeutuessasi jätät kiilat oikeassa järjestyksessä varustelenkkeihin ja pidät mielessä varmistuspaikat. Huomioi myös se, kummalle puolelle valjaisiin tulevat eli millä kädellä asetat varmistuksen.

Jos mennään oikein systemaattiseksi, niin tulevaa liidiyrkkää varten voit vaikka kirjoittaa varmistussekvenssin muistiin esim kännykkään tyyliin k20, f2v, k5v,... (kiila nr2 oikea, frendi nr2 vasen, jne). Varsin suorituspainotteista mutta saattaa kyllä auttaa.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2002 09:27 
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2001 02:00
Posts: 129
Location: Porvoo
Rami, eiks tuolla reitin yläosassa ole ollut yks pultti ennen, ruxin kohdalla? Henkka vissiin poisti sen kun se kävi fiksaamassa pultteja yms. muille reiteille?

Onko se niin että se kohta on "helposti" varmistettavissa omilla vai mikä syy tuohon poistamiseen?

Alkuosa suht. helppo kiivettävä ja joitain lepopaikkojakin löytyy, mut se kruksikohta on aika raskas. Jos sitä joskus raaskis liidata niin yläosa vähän mietityttää...


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2002 09:40 
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Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2001 02:00
Posts: 208
Location: Metsola, Kotka
Juu, reitin ainoa pultti on poistettu ensinousijan Kari Potin luvalla.

En ole kiivennyt reittiä ilman pulttia mutta Henkan mukaan reitti ei nykyään ole vaarallisempi tai jännempi kun aiemminkaan. Tää on tietysti Henkan henkilökohtainen mielipide. Kruksin jälkeiseen pystyhalkeamaan saa mitä loistavimman frendivarmistuksen.


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