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Slouppi • View topic - Cams №6 is needed for the left WIDE crack in Olha

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Tue Nov 20, 2018 23:46

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 Post subject: Cams №6 is needed for the left WIDE crack in Olha
PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 09:12 
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Joined: Fri May 26, 2006 12:00
Posts: 32
Location: Moscow
Dear all,

How many cams of Number 6 should i have for the wide ( left crag) in Olhava?

http://www.slouppi.net/gallery.phtml?se ... utton=Find
it is the first picture in the second row ( from the left)
I will be their on this week end and all the next week.


all the best,

Alex

:D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 11:25 
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Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2002 02:00
Posts: 238
Can't comment on the number of friends needed, but the crack is called Eklipsi.


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 Post subject: 2 HeMa
PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 12:00 
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Joined: Fri May 26, 2006 12:00
Posts: 32
Location: Moscow
Thank You very much for Your reply. I want to climb it with cams, but i dont have the wide ones ( Black Diamond number 6). I plan to rent it from my friends, that why i need the info..

all the best,

Alex


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 13:39 
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Joined: Thu May 27, 2004 22:16
Posts: 87
Location: Alppila, Helsinki
Hey Alexander,

I haven't climbed Eklipsi myself but I know someone who has. I think he said that you should have at least two number 6 cams and that there are some other cracks where you can place smaller cams (or maybe nuts) on the way.

Eklipsi is probably very difficult to onsight, but if you top rope it first or just abseil you can figure the placements out.

Good luck :)

-Ilmari


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 Post subject: Thank YOU
PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 13:57 
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Joined: Fri May 26, 2006 12:00
Posts: 32
Location: Moscow
Thank You very much,

as the ad of adidas say" Impossible is nothing!"

If You have a chance to visit Olhava next week , it will be awesome!

best regards and good luck!

Alex :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 13:59 
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Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 17:40
Posts: 59
Location: Tampere
I think you will be fine with just one number 6 cam. The upper half of the route is much easier and you can run it out. For the first more strenious meters, I had one old #4 cam, and two big (rock empire #5) friends, take some small nuts, microcams or aliens for the horizontal crack.

Good luck :wink:


Last edited by Late on Tue May 08, 2007 06:27, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: 2 Late
PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 15:01 
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Joined: Fri May 26, 2006 12:00
Posts: 32
Location: Moscow
Thank YOU!

I will decide!

All the best!

8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Apr 27, 2007 16:50 
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Joined: Sun May 11, 2003 02:00
Posts: 335
Location: Hki/Tku
Lauri is right, you need only one really large (old 5 or new 6?) cam and one or two large cams. I had one or two nro 4 friends, 1 nro 4 old camalot and 1 nro 5 camalot and smaller things for the top. Some like to use more and some less...

Of course you have to try onsight!! (or flash because you have so much information now.. :wink: ) Route is just like it looks. no big suprises, you just have to fight through. And then you have also water underneath..

Really good route! Classic. :D


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