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Slouppi • View topic - jaanankallion yläpultit

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Fri Sep 21, 2018 23:18

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 19, 2002 08:43 
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Joined: Wed Jun 19, 2002 02:00
Posts: 96
Location: Rollo
Miks niit on vaan yhet kappaleet ylhäällä? onhan ne aika järeitä mutta helpottas elämää tosissaan jos ois kaks vierekkäin. Ei mahu köysi kaksinkerroin läpi ja kaks sulkkaria jos on vierekkäin ja toinen pitäs irrottaa on aika tuskaa. Taisiis: jos sinne on kerta ne yhet laitettu niin kai nyt ois voinu samantien laittaa toisenkin.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 19, 2002 09:26 
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Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2001 02:00
Posts: 264
no voi itku ja harmi. voisiko mitenkään maailmassa olla mahdollista sisällyttää jotakin positiivista näihin pulttaus-, ankkuri- tai yläköyden virittelyposteihin, esim. maininta hyvistä reiteistä, eikä vain aina kertoa, mikä on nyt mennyt vikaan?

ottaen huomioon, miten paljon teemu & co. on hyvinkään seudulla ja vähän muuallakin laittanut pystyyn reittejä ja probleemoja, toisen yläankkuripultin puuttuminen ei tunnu kovin keskeiseltä.

kesän jatkoa!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 19, 2002 11:25 
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Joined: Wed Jun 19, 2002 02:00
Posts: 96
Location: Rollo
tosi hyvät reitit, tosi hyvä pulttaus. kaikki kunnia tekijöille. enmä oletakaan että siihen joku yhteiskunnallinen velvote olis, mutta jos tätä nyt siinä pultilla ollessaan ihmettelee niin miksei täälläkin.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jun 19, 2002 17:23 
Luultavasti on pojat säästäneet pultteja. Jos omasta pussistaan maksaa, niin sitä helposti jättää sen toisen laittamati ja/tai kehittää jonkun todella härön virityksen.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jul 20, 2002 11:05 
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Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2002 02:00
Posts: 7
Jeps... Nyt on hieman parempia ankkureita.
Rev It Up, Zombbari, Haliba ja Woodpecker saivat keskiviikkona uudet yläankkurit.

Lisää tulossa lähiviikkojen aikana...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 10, 2003 20:11 
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Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2002 02:00
Posts: 7
Ei muuten tullut ihan lähiviikkojen aikana... Yritetään tässä saada kuntoon ennen +20c kelejä. :smile:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 12, 2003 09:08 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Quote:
On 2002-07-20 12:05, husto wrote:
Jeps... Nyt on hieman parempia ankkureita.
Rev It Up, Zombbari, Haliba ja Woodpecker saivat keskiviikkona uudet yläankkurit.

Lisää tulossa lähiviikkojen aikana...


Hei All,

Sorry to write in English but why do Rev it Up and Zombbari need top anchors? There is a bloody big tree at the top. Are the anchors on Rev it Up back from the top of the climb, or at the top of the corner - because the crux of the route is the last couple of moves - if there were bolts there it would change the nature of the route. Are the trees being damaged by people abseiling from them?

I've climbed regularly at Janaankallio for 7 years and never found it difficult to make belays at the top.

Toby.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2003 09:32 
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Anchors were placed basicly to make it simple and safe, but also worried about the tree. Ancors are placed on top of the right hand wall. Two anchors with carabiner in the same place where the tree rigged anchors would end up, so all now needed to do is clip the rope in.

And no worries...Still need to nail those layback moves to get the route done. After all, at jaanankallio each route ends when you stand on top of it.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2003 11:48 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
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Location: Vantaa
Quote:
On 2003-03-14 09:32, husto wrote:
Anchors were placed basicly to make it simple and safe, but also worried about the tree. Ancors are placed on top of the right hand wall. Two anchors with carabiner in the same place where the tree rigged anchors would end up, so all now needed to do is clip the rope in.


That sounds good - but can someone tell me why rockclimbing should be "simple and safe"? Watching TV on the couch and eating chips is 'simple and safe' (besides the obvious heart disease risk) . Aren't climbing walls designed for those mentally unable/unwilling to deal with the problems that real rock climbing creates? :wink:

Quote:
And no worries...Still need to nail those layback moves to get the route done. After all, at jaanankallio each route ends when you stand on top of it.


Cool - the layback is what makes it one of the best routes of its grade in the country.

cheers all,

Toby "anti-toprope-Taliban" Archer.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2003 12:08 
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Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2001 02:00
Posts: 264
rock climbing should be simple and safe because it's comparable to sex which is obviously much better when there is no fear of having babies and it's widely and easily available. in finland, this is. maybe it's different in uk where the girls are ugly and protection is poor but you have a finnish girlfriend, no?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2003 12:17 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
:grin:

But if climbing is sex, then without a doubt toproping is w*nking...

...which I guess makes bouldering a quick fumble in the back seat of the car on the side of a dark road; sport climbing a 'quicky' - which whilst fun doesn't need much engagement. Trad climbing, therefore, is a good unhurried honest bonk and mountaineering - an all-night feast of lurvvveeee....

And finally, ice climbing is quite clearly S&M.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2003 12:18 
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Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2001 02:00
Posts: 264
been training on the wall, lately?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2003 12:54 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Quote:
On 2003-03-14 12:18, olli wrote:
been training on the wall, lately?


Me? No. Went once in November to Tapanila and remembered how much I dislike them so decided to just ice climb and ski until the rock dries out again. Maybe it will be nice for bouldering this weekend...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2003 13:36 
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Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2002 02:00
Posts: 7
Well, Toby has a point there! Rev It Up is a really nice piece for trad climbing, but also a very, very nice for beginners. Now it is also accessible for these "quickies", coming to cliffs with nothing but shoes, harnesses, ten lightweigt quickdraws and one 9.4 mm stinger.

sad though...must adapt to "de-evolution".


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 14, 2003 13:46 
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Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2001 02:00
Posts: 264
commercial services enjoyed once in a winter is fairly tolerable when in a steady relationship..


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