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Slouppi • View topic - New routes at Luhti...

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Thu Nov 15, 2018 15:05

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 Post subject: New routes at Luhti...
PostPosted: Thu Jul 19, 2007 20:02 
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 02:00
Posts: 185
Location: Helsinki
Uutisosingossa olleet Tomin ja Minan uudet reitit oli siis Verhomestarin vieressä olevat kaksi pulttilinjaa ja kaukana vasemmalla oleva entinen projekti. Mutta muistanko väärin vai oliko siinä Keeman ja Sarcophaguksenkin välissäkin joku pultattu linja mikä toposta puutuu?

Onko kellään tieto tästä?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 14:24 
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Yksi uusi linja löytyy myös Keemasta oikealle ison kuusen takaa. Putsasin ja kiipesin sen kesällä 2006. Helppo ja luonnollisesti varmistettava. Nimeltään Pätkätyö. Toppi hiukka heikosti puhdistettu, koska en hennonut repiä enempää alas suuresta sammalmättäästä. Toppaaminen kuitenkin vaivatonta...


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 20, 2007 23:47 
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Location: Umeå, Ruotti
Pari uutta linjaa voisin myös lisätä. Toinen lähtee 5m keeman vasemmalta puolelta, nega halkeama. Nimi on Hard Rock Hallelujah, ja vaikeutta noin 6b:n verran. Kiivetty yllättäen viime keväänä. Toinen reitti on vielä projekti, joka lähtee pari metriä keeman oikelta puolelta. vaikeutta ehkäpä 7a+.

-saku


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2007 01:58 
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Onko tuo 7a+ projekti se pultattu linja?

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 21, 2007 08:55 
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Location: Umeå, Ruotti
Mun tietääkseni tomi teki jonkin uuden reitin tosta projektista pari metriä oikealle. Toi 7a+ -reitti menee siitä kohdasta missä on sellainen minikatto puolessa välissä reittiä ja siinä pikkukatossa halkeama minne saa namisti nyrkkijammin :D

niin ja tätä projektia ei ainakaan mun tietääkseni ole pultattu.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 17:50 
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Joined: Thu May 30, 2002 02:00
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Sarcophaguksen vasemmalla puolella oleva pultattu linja on nimeltään Kirakahvi ja greidi arvio 6c+, tekijä Jari Uusikivi.

Sen viereen vasemmalle ennen pätkätyötä putsasin myös linjan vaan en tohtinut ruveta pulttaamaan kun en silloin vielä tiennyt kuka oli putsannut pätkätyötä ja miten se reitti kulkee. Täytyy kiivetä pätkätyö eka ja katsoa onko siinä edes riittävästi tilaa.

Mikä MikkoM pätkätyön greidi on?

Miika


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 07:03 
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Sen verran vielä noista uusista reiteistä, että onko toi 'Iltatyttö' siinä 'Kansipoju'n vasemmalla puolella...? Aika hänkillä feisillä, oiskohan siinä viitisen pulttia? Eli se ois sillon toi uutisissa viitattu vanha projekti?

"Third new route situates on the left end of the cliff and is called 'Iltatyttö' (7c+). The more exact location is on the steep face, just left from the old project."


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 15:05 
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Location: Vantaa
saku wrote:
Pari uutta linjaa voisin myös lisätä. Toinen lähtee 5m keeman vasemmalta puolelta, nega halkeama. Nimi on Hard Rock Hallelujah, ja vaikeutta noin 6b:n verran.
-saku


Moi Saku. If I understand the above correctly, I think me and English Tony climbed the same route in June - looking in my UKC logbook, 17th June to be precise:
"The short lightening bolt-shaped crack to the left of Keema. Straightforward but steep."
We called it "Hooligan", because its short but brutal. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=43685 Did you beat us to it or did we get there first? I actually emailed Rami about it but for some reason the mail bounced and I never got round to resending him the info. Tony and I argued about the grade as I thought it was well hard. I cleaned it last year but fell off a few times trying to ground-up it, then fell off again trying to lead it in June. Tony stepped in and did the honours and then I just managed to second him cleanly. I thought it was harder than Keema, but then I'm completely shit at anything with the slightest overhang involved! Tony thought it was Finnish 6- tops, whilst I thought it had to be harder than that as I onsight most 6- cracks. If you got there first I'll change the UKC database entry to Hard Rock Hallelujah.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 15:50 
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Location: Vantaa
If anyone is interested, me and Toni Juopperi did another line at Luhti back in autumn of 2005. It goes up the twin cracks to right of Majakka (route 5 on the topo) to a sort of ledge then takes the first line of weakness off the ledge to the top. I thought maybe 5+, although it was a bit dirty, I was climbing onsight and took one fall as a result of the dirt, so with a few more ascents it might be really a 5. We called it "Better than Golf": http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=34724 It isn't brilliant but if you are climbing at around that grade its good to have another more moderate grade route at Luhti.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 16:28 
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 02:00
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Location: Helsinki
"The short lightening bolt-shaped crack to the left of Keema. Straightforward but steep."

If you did it in June I think Saku got it first...
When Saku pointed me on this route it was last Autumn if I remember correctly. I agreed the short hard part would be around 6b.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 20:29 
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Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2003 02:00
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Location: Umeå, Ruotti
Moi Toby,

I did "hard rock hallelujah" in may or june 2006. I also sent info about the route to lyseoboys as well as a new topo where was my new route and a project, but I don't think they update their website so often...

When I cleaned the route it was quite dirty and there were no marks of chalk so I didn't think anyone been there before.

-saku


Last edited by saku on Mon Jul 30, 2007 20:41, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 20:38 
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Location: Vantaa
saku wrote:
I did "hard rock hallelujah" in may or june 2006. I also sent info about the route to lyseoboys as well as a new topo where was my new route and a project, but I don't think they update their website so often...
-saku


I did the same with "Better than Golf" with similar (non)effect. I know that one of the Lyseo guys has little kids and I know how that tends to eat up your time and good intentions to complete projects - both of the climbing and non-climbing type.

I'll change the name on UKC to your "Hard Rock..." as I know there are some other Finns who keep logbooks there.

cheers
Toby.


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