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Slouppi • View topic - Havukallion reitistä?

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Sat Nov 17, 2018 11:42

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 Post subject: Havukallion reitistä?
PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 17:24 
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Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2005 07:21
Posts: 30
Osaako kukaan kertoa Havukallion aivan oikeasta laidasta (alhaalta päin katsottuna) löytyvän sporttireitin nimeä ja greidiä? Onko kyseessä joku uusi linja kun topossa ei näy mitään merkintää siitä?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 19:48 
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Nimestä ei hajua... Mutta muutaman semilokaalin mukaan taisi greidi olla jotain suomi 6:n ja 7:n välistä. Tiesä sitten kus*ttivatko kaverit minua...


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 20:30 
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Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2005 10:29
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Location: l.a.hest
Loppukeväästä Antin toimesta kiivetty uusi reitti.
Greidi jotain 6b muistaakseni.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 21:44 
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Joined: Sat Dec 22, 2001 02:00
Posts: 125
Samoilla lämpimillä tiedustelisin "Vanha Grant" -reitin pulttien tilannetta, kun niissä roikuskeli kaiken maailman punaisia nauhoja yms. Eli onko siihen työn alla retropulttaus vai mikäköhän on meininki?

Antti, Savo


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 22:20 
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Joined: Fri Jun 30, 2006 11:00
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Location: Espoo
Mullakin tuli Havukalliota koskeva kysymys mieleen...On Sight:tasin Cure:n ja sen perään hollolan bleaun, molemmat on greidattu 5- (topokirjassa) ja ainakin mun mielestä noi kaksi reittiä EI MITENKÄÄN voi olla 5- molemmat. Joko Hollola Bleau on huimasti helpompi tai sitten Cure on jokusen pykälän tiukempi...tai sit mä vaan oon niin tumpelo , että sain Curesta jotenkin itelleni huomattavasti hankalampaa kuin H.Bleau...

Mitä mieltä olette noista greideistä?

(tämä EI siis missään nimessä ole tarkoitettu epäluottamuslauseeksi reittien greidaajille/avaajille, alkoi vaan hippasen kiinnostamaan...) :roll:


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 22, 2007 23:48 
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Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2002 02:00
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O.D. wrote:
Mullakin tuli Havukalliota koskeva kysymys mieleen...On Sight:tasin Cure:n ja sen perään hollolan bleaun, molemmat on greidattu 5- (topokirjassa) ja ainakin mun mielestä noi kaksi reittiä EI MITENKÄÄN voi olla 5- molemmat. Joko Hollola Bleau on huimasti helpompi tai sitten Cure on jokusen pykälän tiukempi...tai sit mä vaan oon niin tumpelo , että sain Curesta jotenkin itelleni huomattavasti hankalampaa kuin H.Bleau...

Mitä mieltä olette noista greideistä?


Taas mennään... Eli Hollolan bleau on sellaista tasaista mättöä, ja kamat saa sisään hyvistä paikoista. Curessa alku on aika nihkeä, varsinkin jos yrittää jotain hikisiä piissejä tunkea sisään. Mutta ei se teknisesti vaikeampi tunnu olevan kuin mitkään muutkaan 5-/5:n reitit. Ja Curen kruxiinhan löytyy sitten se "cure", jos osaa etsiä (siis kun sitten ylempänä noistaan hyllyltä leveämmän halkeaman kohdalla ylös).

Molemmat vissiin OS joskus aikoja sitten. Henkisesti Cure vaati enemmän (kun se alku oli tosiaan hieman ohut) ja kyllä sitä kruxia tuli mietittyä useampaan otteeseen. Hollolan bleauhan onkin sitten sellaista aika tasapaksua settiä (kiipeilyllisesti), eli mikään kohta ei selvästi tuntunut vaikeammalta, tosi varmisteluhan hieman arvelutti. Mutta Hollolan bleaussahan on tosiaan noita äitejä aina kun niitä tarvi...

Saattoi tietysti olla, että olit väärällä Curen lähdöllä... Muistaakseni Curen Variaatio taisi olla siinä mustassa topossa greidattu 5- ja sit originaali Cure 6, kun todellisuudessa greidit mennöö juuri toisin päin.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 23, 2007 12:35 
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Joined: Sun Jan 20, 2002 02:00
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Location: Nastola
MTK:n blogista löytyy tarkempaa tietoa Sam1:lle. Kiitos Antin!


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2007 12:32 
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Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2002 02:00
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EVi wrote:
MTK:n blogista löytyy tarkempaa tietoa Sam1:lle. Kiitos Antin!


Mikäs mahtaa olla blogin URL?


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