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Slouppi • View topic - Kvarnby: taas uusi reitti?

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Wed Sep 19, 2018 20:17

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2002 11:09 
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Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2002 02:00
Posts: 58
Location: Vallila, Helsinki
Heti Murkkuhalkeaman oikealla puolella face:llä. Tuskin kiivetty ainakaan vähään aikaan. Olennaisimmat otteet löytyivät paksun sammaleen alta. Tästä voisi saada hyvän pulttireitin about 6:sen tienoilla. Käykäähän kiipeämässä. Murkkuhalkeaman yläankkurilla voi hyvin yläköysitellä.

T: Kimpi


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 14, 2002 13:13 
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Joined: Thu May 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 50
Location: Helsinki/Turku
Juu kiivetty on... käytimme rajauksena facea, eli murkkuhalkeaman pystykräkkiin ei saa sorkkia ja sen lisäksi alhaalla ei saa käyttää sitä "kulmaa" - arvio on 6 tai 6-, tosin ei liidattu, kun kamoille ei ole paikkoja. Vaatinee 2 pulttia. Jussi taisi jo laittaa meilin Suihkoselle, josko siihen saisi pultit.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2002 11:19 
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Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2002 02:00
Posts: 58
Location: Vallila, Helsinki
Kiipesitkö Kimmo sen kokonaan putsatulla reitillä? Se oli pitkään vain puoliksi putsattu. Sieltä paljastui pieniä halkeamia, mutta tuskin luonnollisilla kuitenkaan kiivettävissä?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2002 11:55 
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Joined: Thu May 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 50
Location: Helsinki/Turku
En osaa sanoa oliko kyseessä tarkoittamasi putsatut otteet vai ei. Rajoituksena pidimme, että niitä otteita, jotka "kuuluvat" murkkuhalkeamaan ei käytetty vasemmalta puolelta ja oikealta puolelta hylättiin kaikki "liian hyvän" tuntuiset otteet, mm. se nurkkaus alaosassa. Paikanpäällä katsottuna reitti ei ole näin keinotekoisesti rajatun oloinen, vaikka tekstistä ehkä tuntuukin.

Tuskin kuitenkaan olimme ensimmäisiä tälläkään reitillä.

Luonnollisiin en ota kantaa, koska ainakin teoriassa reitin puolessa välissä on pari ohutta vaaka halkeamaa, johon DDM:n 0,25 natti saattaisi mahtua - en todellakaan ajatellut itse koettaa pysyykö se siinä.

Mielestäni kyseessä on sen verran itsenäinen ja hieno linja, että siihen voisi 2 pulttia uhrata...


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