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Slouppi • View topic - Torre Traverse kiivetty (Garibotti & Haley)

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Wed Nov 14, 2018 15:00

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 Post subject: Torre Traverse kiivetty (Garibotti & Haley)
PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 21:25 
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Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 17:40
Posts: 59
Location: Tampere
Rolo Garibotti ja Colin Haley on kiivennyt "Torre Traversen" Patagoniassa, tuota 4 huipun (Standhard, Herron, Egger, Cerro Torre) traversea ollaan yrkkäilty 80 luvulta lähtien, mm. hubereiden toimesta. Nyt syntyi tulosta:

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes ... etraverse/

Ehkä yks kovimmista alppikiipeily suorituksista ikinä?


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 Post subject: Kova nousu
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 08:56 
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Joined: Sun Oct 24, 2004 06:08
Posts: 45
Eittämättä kova suoritus, mutta Garipottin omien sanojen mukaan itse nousu ei ole teknisesti kovin vaativa (5.11/A1) vaan Patagonian olosuhteet tekevät pitkästä noususta vaativan. Sekä tietysti aina hankala Cerron huipun lumisieni.

Esim. Thomas Huber kiipesi 2005 3 ensimmäistä huippua ja takas 36 tuntiin. Ja nyt kun olosuhteet oli kohtuulliset niin Garipotti ja Haley vetäisivät reitin ilman "suurempia" hankaluuksia.

Mene ja tiedä.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:34 
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Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 17:40
Posts: 59
Location: Tampere
Joo olosuhteethan sen määrää hyvinkin pitkälle että koska Patagoniassa saa tehtyä tommosia suorituksia. Huberit oli paikalla tänäkin vuonna, mutta niiden mielestä kelit ei ollu tarpeeks hyvät silloin kun rolo & haley lähti kiipeemään tota traversea.

Garibotti oli kyllä se kaveri keneltä tota stunttia ensimmäisenä odotti. Vaikeimpia linkkejä tossa on Cerro Torren kiipeeminen Col of Conquestista. Garibottihan avas sinne uuden reitin jokunen vuosi sitten, El Arca de los Vientos, joten reitti oli rololle tuttu entuudestaan. Nythän koko traverseen meni 4 päivää, mutta garibotti totesikin että ideaali olosuhteissa linkityksen saisi tehtyä huomattavasti nopeammin. Saa nähdä..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 21:03 
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Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 17:40
Posts: 59
Location: Tampere
No nyt alkaa tosissaan ketuttamaan ettei päässyt ite lähtemään pelipaikoille tänä vuonna:
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/newswire-patagonia-frenzy-weather-window

Siellä on vissiin joku vuosituhannen ikkuna auki, uusia reittejä kiivetään päivittäin... mm. rolo on ollut taas hommissa torre traversen jälkeen..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 22:02 
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Joined: Sun May 11, 2003 02:00
Posts: 335
Location: Hki/Tku
hehehee! Paras mikstakuva aikoihin tuo Ferrarireitin viimeinen kp!! :) :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 12, 2008 22:45 
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Joined: Sun May 20, 2007 20:03
Posts: 40
Location: Vantaa
Näyttäis että Laurin ja Sampsan koluamille mestoille olis tehty eka link-up:

http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes ... raverse08/

Eikun pojat takas pelipaikoille ens vuonna... 8) 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 22:12 
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Joined: Fri Jun 04, 2004 20:41
Posts: 231
Aika levoton setti. :D

Kaikki muu on vielä jotenkin ymmärrettävää, mutta Casarotto-pilari kymmeneen tuntiin kolmantena päivänä on jo melkoista menoa. Casarotto on kuitenkin Nosen kokoinen reitti. Vaikeus ei ole ehkä ihan yhtä sustained, mutta olosuhteet ovat huomattavasti mutkikkaammat.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2008 22:16 
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Joined: Fri Jun 04, 2004 20:41
Posts: 231
Kuva Casarottolta:
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