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Slouppi • View topic - Kauhala sports climbs

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Sat Nov 17, 2018 10:53

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 Post subject: Kauhala sports climbs
PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2008 09:47 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Dudes.

Does anyone know the history of the first bolted line at Kauhala (if you are approaching along the base of the cliff from the car park). I haven't been to Kauhala for a couple of years and don't remember it being there before - although it might have been. I fell off the crux a number of times last night so still need to do it cleanly, but my partner who did it reckoned 6a or 6a+. Anyway it is excellently bolted, and steep and juggy which is pretty rare at that grade in Finland.

Anyone know what it is called, what grade it is and who did the FA?

Didn't see any chalk on the cliffs, but the routes like Potilas, Big Crack etc are all totally clean and dry. Good place for evening visit from Helsinki and still plenty of potential for new routes, trad and sports if someone puts the effort in. Is Kauhala finally going to make it into the new topo?

Some route info (and made-up names for routes we couldn't get further info on) at: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showc ... limb2=2165

Toby.


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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 12:22 
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Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 144
I think it is quite a new line, maybe after 2000.

You are missing a few routes in your topo.

Right of Potilas behind the corner there is one route called "Ariel". I remember it having at least one bolt and the grade is aroung 6a+. It is old and done in 1992/93 (Jere Seppä, anyone...?). I did not yet climb then, so maybe someone knows better, Sidi?

Then on the big difficult wall left of the Mystery route there are at least 2 climbs, Bruce Lee (done by Tuomas Hänninen in -98, grade 6+ or E2 6a). This route is an inside corner on the leftside of the wall. On the right of Bruce Lee there is a route called Mad Max (done by myself in -98, grade hard 7 or E5 6a...??) :roll: It has one bolt. Both those routes have an anchor.

and btw, Hopeinen Kuu was done by Tuomas in 1998, not 1999.

regards
Peter


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PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2008 18:05 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Peter, thanks very much for that. I maybe need to print off your info and go back and have a look to work out where things are. Is Bruce Lee the very fine looking corner at the left end of that high wall? There is a krab attached to something (a piton maybe) in a horizontal crack just left of that corner at about half height. I look more carefully next time to see if I can see the bolt on Mad Max.

Rami H. told us that he and a friend had climbed the route we thought might have been a new route (what we called Gruffalo) back in the early 90s but he didn't know what it was called or who did it first. There are a couple of lower-off bolts at the top of that buttress (a good bit of rock) - "Gruffalo" sneaks up the right side - so maybe that is where Ariel is?

I'll try and dig out some photos from my files and put them somewhere so people can see which bits of the cliff we are talking about. Thanks again for your help.


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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 07:36 
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Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 17:30
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Toby wrote:
Rami H. told us that he and a friend had climbed the route we thought might have been a new route (what we called Gruffalo) back in the early 90s but he didn't know what it was called or who did it first. There are a couple of lower-off bolts at the top of that buttress (a good bit of rock) - "Gruffalo" sneaks up the right side - so maybe that is where Ariel is?


Based on Pete's description Ariel is on the arete right of The Big Crack and before the Grunt chimney. There is a bolt and an anchor on that arete.


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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 09:48 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
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Location: Vantaa
Thanks JAB - I'll go back and have a look for the bolt.

Does anyone know anything about the very good crack climb some 50-100 metres left of the Potilas buttress (currently in the UKC database as "Right Crack")? http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=67427
Who climbed it first? What name and grade they gave it?

Thanks all.


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 Post subject: Re: Kauhala sports climbs
PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 10:30 
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Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2002 02:00
Posts: 58
Location: Vallila, Helsinki
Toby wrote:
Dudes.

Does anyone know the history of the first bolted line at Kauhala (if you are approaching along the base of the cliff from the car park).

Toby.



It must be a route called Palapeli I established maybe 4 years ago. I did the the fist assent and Jakke Matsinen did the second. Grade is 6a.


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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 10:52 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Thanks Kimpi, I'll update the info on UKC, so it is there even if nowhere else. Another thought - the top move is well hard for 6a - but then I find all the granite 6a's (the Rollarit ones are fine oddly) around Helsinki well hard so maybe its just me being crap!


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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 10:58 
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Location: Vantaa
BTW - is it OK to bolt at Kauhala? Should you seek permission from anyone first? Thanks again.


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PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2008 14:15 
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Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2002 02:00
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Toby wrote:
Peter, thanks very much for that. I maybe need to print off your info and go back and have a look to work out where things are. Is Bruce Lee the very fine looking corner at the left end of that high wall? There is a krab attached to something (a piton maybe) in a horizontal crack just left of that corner at about half height. I look more carefully next time to see if I can see the bolt on Mad Max.


Bruce Lee and Mad Max are only a few meters apart so you should see the bolt at maybe 10 meters high. Mad Max is a crack with some not so great protection and it starts from a ledge. It is easier to abseil to the start of the route as I remember there being some bushes. The bolt comes after the crux and it protects the whole upper part to the anchor. The upper part of Mad Max is not difficult, but I could not find any even semi-decent placements :o

What I remember from Bruce Lee there being a long reach in the beginning but protection is quite good all the time :D


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 Post subject: Re: Kauhala sports climbs
PostPosted: Fri Jul 11, 2008 23:30 
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Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2002 02:00
Posts: 161
Hi guys!

I need to go back to this topic, because I just went for a walk around the Kauhala outdoor area and now I'm a little confused. I used to go there some years ago to practice aid climbing, but just to the one place which I believe is nearest to the small parking lot (that is, you just start walking the clear path from the parking lot and soon you come to where you can descend to your left and end up down by the stream, between the two rock faces, the HUGE flake with a bolted route being on your left if you face the cliff). Now this time I stayed on the path somewhat further and finally the path divided, the other part coming down back towards the little stream. The path turns back towards the abovementioned cliff and finally ends up back there, but there's a lot more rock in between, even some quite impressive looking faces.

Now my question is: are these some of the areas you are talking about and what's the history behind these cliffs? I took a closer look to a couple of particular lines (very nice, naturally protectable) and at least one appeared to have been cleaned some time ago but had already gathered new moss since. It was already a little dark so I couldn't examine the area further, but I'm definitely planning to visit the place again soon.

If you follow this link, you'll get an idea of which area I'm talking about: http://kansalaisen.karttapaikka.fi/kart ... &map.y=164

On the map, Kakarsberget is basically the area which I already knew and the other cliffs I saw today are north or north-east of that.

Let me know if anybody knows about these cliffs. I believe there is some nice potential for new routes or old ones to be cleaned again.

Regards,

Ossi

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 Post subject: Re: Kauhala sports climbs
PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 09:51 
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Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2002 02:00
Posts: 58
Location: Vallila, Helsinki
I know that Jakke has been cleaning those routes with Nokias climbing club some years ago. If you walk even futher and follow the stream you'll find a cliff by the Kakarslampi. There's a huge fallen spruce tree lying against the face where the most negative part is and where some really nice crack follows the roof section.

This place really needs a face lift and some new routes!


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 Post subject: Re: Kauhala sports climbs
PostPosted: Sat Jul 12, 2008 10:21 
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Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2002 02:00
Posts: 161
Thanks Kimpi. I did see one truly huge fallen tree and a roof sector, which was basically where I started walking back along the stream. But the fallen tree was quite close to the place I already knew of. So I'm not sure if we are talking about the same exact spots. I didn't see the pond (Kakarslampi), for instance. But now I'm sure some of the trad lines I saw are the ones cleaned by Jakke; they looked like something he would eagerly climb. They were too dirty by now, so a facelift is definitely in demand. I recently moved to Kirkkonummi so I'll certainly be going back soon. I think the only drawback with the place is that it's shadowed by forest and probably does not dry fast, which would of course be a big benefit for any crag, considering the current climatic phenomena.

Ossi

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 Post subject: Re: Kauhala sports climbs
PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 14:07 
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Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2002 02:00
Posts: 58
Location: Vallila, Helsinki
I'm planning to go there tomorrow morning depending on the weather. Come by Ossi if you are around and we'll have a chat about Kauhalas future?


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 Post subject: Re: Kauhala sports climbs
PostPosted: Sun Jul 13, 2008 22:30 
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Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2002 02:00
Posts: 161
Voin kyllä tulla, mutta mihin aikaan? Mä oon lomalla, joten melkein kaikki käy. En enää lue posteja tänään ja huomenna vasta kun herään, joten jos ajattelit mennä aikaisin, niin pistä vaikka tekstari, numero on nollaneljänolla viiskaheksan22202. Soittaakin voi. Mulla on sun joku vanha sähköpostiosoite, mutten tiedä, onko se enää voimassa, joten en viitti laittaa siihen tätä samaa jorinaa.

T: Ossi

PS. Toivottavasti kukaan ei pahastu, että vaihdoin suomelle.

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