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Slouppi • View topic - Jippo liukastus - Tussinkoski

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Sun Nov 18, 2018 10:03

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 09, 2002 15:22 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Has anyone else led this climb? If so, what grade do you think it is?

I did yesterday, having tried and fallen off once before some years ago. Its overhanging the whole way but the holds are huge, hardwork stoping to put the gear in.

Maybe 6-, but could be anything between 5 and 6.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 12, 2002 07:06 
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2001 02:00
Posts: 228
Location: Helsinki
Not too many people have lead anything at Tussinkoski, most people haven´t even been there. I can´t help you with the grade, because I belong to the first group.

What kind of gear can you use on the routes? Some cams in the pockets? The rock seems quite soft, so are the pockets trustworthy?


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 13, 2002 11:47 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Its a crack climb so nuts are fine. They are all very good solid placements, you would have to do something really silly to hurt yourself on this route!

Both me and Toni fell at the top on our first go - but we both got it 'on the first Redpoint' - its a bit easier once the gear is in, as hanging around putting it in is probably harder than the moves.

The crucial bit of the crack at the top seemed to have been cleaned - so I think someone has been on it recently.

I've led maybe 6 or 7 lines there, and I think the rock is perfect once you've got all the shite out of the cracks. Some of the pockets would definitely take friends, and I think they would be good. I might go back and try some of the harder looking face lines doing this.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2002 09:06 
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Joined: Sun Mar 24, 2002 02:00
Posts: 47
Location: kuusankoski
missäs tää mesta mahtaa sijaita?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2002 12:26 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Quote:
On 2002-09-15 10:06, ska wrote:
missäs tää mesta mahtaa sijaita?


It's in Korso - directions and topo here:
http://www.mountainshop.fi/topos/tussinkoski.html


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