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Slouppi • View topic - Vanjärvi, Manna ja Lasa

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Sun Sep 23, 2018 04:54

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2002 10:03 
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Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2002 02:00
Posts: 58
Location: Vallila, Helsinki
Vanjärven topoissa on jotain sekoilua. Aivan oikeassa reunassa on pultattu reitti. Onko se Manna ja lasa vai Superhiiva. Ei se kyllä 5-:lta tuntunut.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2002 12:19 
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Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2002 02:00
Posts: 9
Location: Espoo
Reitit mennee tiettävästi vasemmalta oikealle
Sinivuokko-nimetön projekti-valkovuokko-mana ja lasa- superhiiva. Eli kiipesit Manna ja Lasan. Nimetön projekti sotkee topon. Toivottavasti ylitit itsesi kun ei ollut greidi kauhua.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2002 21:24 
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Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2002 02:00
Posts: 19
Joo-o... sama huomio parin viikon takaa. Topon mukaan se reitti "superhiiva" on se oikeanpuoleisin pultattu reitti ja greidattu 5 miinukseksi. Itse kiipeen nippa-nappa kuutosta ja tuo oli mielestäni jännin reitti mitä olen koskaan liidannu. Tosin siinä ois mahdollista kiertää pari negatiivista/vaikeampaa paikkaa vasemmalta kiertäen, mutta menis kyllä pulttilinjasta rankasti sivuun.
Mille tasolle te muut ko. reittiä kiivenneet sen laittaisitte? Itsellä vielä niin vähän kokemusta etten ala omia mielipiteitä julkisesti esittämään, mutta 5- lienee hieman alakanttiin.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 02, 2002 12:13 
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Joined: Mon Jun 17, 2002 02:00
Posts: 58
Location: Vallila, Helsinki
Joo jännäkakkaa oli housussa puoleen väliin saakka, mutta sitten sain kasattua itseni ja noustua hyvällä fiiliksellä ylös asti. Ihan karsea työvoitto! Olin muuten jotenkin järkyttynyt kiipeämisen jälkeen. Tämä tapahtui jo kesällä 2001. 6 oli siihen astinen tiukin on sight saavutus.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2002 19:57 
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 02:00
Posts: 55
Location: Helsinki
Oli oikean puoleisimman reitin nimi mikä tahansa, kiipesin k.o. reitin joskus 4-5 vuotta sitten ja kolmatta pulttia klipatessani, kun olin ottanut sopivasti löysää, kriittinen isohko käsiote murtui ja käväisin puolen metrin päässä maasta.
Kiipesin reitin relattuani uudelleen.
Ehkä reitiltä on otteita murtunut enemmänkin, who knows...


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2002 10:29 
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2001 02:00
Posts: 129
Location: Porvoo
Katos, ettei vaan olisi se kerta kun mä olin varmistamassa. :smile: Kiipeekös Eetu vielä?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2002 10:52 
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Joined: Wed Feb 20, 2002 02:00
Posts: 19
Jep... eikä se ole ollut viimeinen irronnut lohkare tuolla kalliolla. Syyskuun lopulla saimme kuulla/todeta, kun vasemman puoleisen sektorin oik. puoleisimmalta reitiltä irtosi semmoinen telkkarin kokoinen lohkare. Onneksi ko. tapauksessa lohkare lähti kakkosen jalkojen alta ja varmistaja oli turvallisesti kallion päällä... Paikka on silti hieno ja "manna ja lasa/superhiiva" reitti jännä kiivetä.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 12, 2004 15:27 
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Joined: Mon Feb 02, 2004 02:00
Posts: 3
Onko Superhiiva pultitettu? Topon mukaan sillä reitillä on vain yksi ankkuri reitin lopussa, (huonot) varmistukset kun saa koloihin. Manna ja lasa reitti on sporttinen.

Vanjärvi on legendaarinen noiden irtoavien otteiden ansiosta. Jokunen vuosi sitten boulderoitiin kaverin kanssa manna ja lasa reitistä oikealle. Niinhän siinä kävi, että kaverin kiivetessä irtosi koiran pään kokoinen ote, ja sinne menivät pitkin rinnettä kivi ja kaveri. Selvisi onneksi muutamalla naarmulla, vaikka liuku oli ~10m.

Mistä aasinsilta: moni on puhunut, että Wild bananas reittiä ei pitäisi edes kokeilla. Koko reitti on periaatteessa rakennettu viittä vaille irti olevalle släbille (käykää päällä katsomassa halkeamaa, mutta varokaa äkäisiä muurahaisia). Släbi voi irrota huonolla tuurilla, ja silloin romahtaa pienen yksiön kokoinen kallionpala varmistajan päälle...


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