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Slouppi • View topic - Bowline-variaatiot

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Wed Nov 14, 2018 09:02

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Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 2 posts ] 

Mikä paalusolmu käytössä?
A: pinkki 9%  9%  [ 1 ]
B: oranssi 0%  0%  [ 0 ]
C: valkoinen 27%  27%  [ 3 ]
D: punavihreä 18%  18%  [ 2 ]
E: joku muu? 45%  45%  [ 5 ]
Total votes : 11
Author Message
 Post subject: Bowline-variaatiot
PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 10:26 
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Joined: Fri May 10, 2002 02:00
Posts: 1001
Location: Imatra
Monet käyttää kiipeilyssä yksinomaan kasisolmua, mutta käytännön syistä joillakin on käytössä myös paalusolmu (bowline). Aika monenlaisiin variaatioihin olen törmännyt ja tässä niistä neljä. Itse käytän oikeanpuoleista versiota eli ns. tuplapaalusolmua. Tuokin käsite on hieman häilyvä, sillä myös vasemmalla olevaa solmua olen nähnyt kutsuttavan tuplapaaluksi.

http://www.slouppi.net/contents/pics/Foto/solmut.jpg

Mitähän versiota näistä käytetään eniten? Onko lujuudessa eroja? Vaikka paalusolmu heikentää köyttä hilkun (30-40%) enemmän kuin kasi (20-30%), on sen käyttömukavuus joskus paljon parempi. Jos projektoi jotain reittiä ja tulee tipahdeltua usein ja lujaakin, voi kasisolmu jumittua aika komeesti. Tokihan sen saa auki kiivaasti ajan kanssa ja antaumuksella vääntelemällä jne, mutta paalusolmu ei jumitu lainkaan. Kasisolmun hyvä puoli on se, ettei se aukea itsekseen, kun taas paalusolmun lisänä kannattaa ehdottomasti käyttää varmistussolmua, esim. kalastajansolmu.


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 Post subject: Re: Bowline-variaatiot
PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2009 11:11 
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Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 14:28
Posts: 6
Location: Porvoo
Vasemmanpuoleista olen käyttänyt, mutta sellaisella modifikaatiolla että lyhyt pää seuraa pitkää vielä siitä viimeisestä lenkistä läpi ja sitten siihen kalastaja (eli päätös kuten oikealla olevassa solmussa). Lähinnä olen käyttänyt tuota ohuilla köysillä talvella kun tässä solmussa itse solmun tekeminen, lenkin pituuden säätäminen ja solmun aukaisu on todella paljon helpompaa erityisesti hanskat kädessä. Tiedän muidenkin sitä käyttävän ja ainakaan vielä se ei ole koskaan pettänyt tai itsekseen auennut... :wink:


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