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Slouppi • View topic - Havukallio

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
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 Post subject: Havukallio
PostPosted: Tue Jun 16, 2009 20:53 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Does the new crack route at Havukallio (that follows the straight crack left of route 8. "Arin reitti" on the Slouppi topo) have a name? I managed to fall off the crux a couple of time on Saturday before cleaning the crack out enough to do it, and is always nice to know the name of your embarrassing failures. :-? It's a good line, mostly pretty easy but then a tough crux right at the top. Maybe about grade 5 or hard 5-.

And what's with all the bolts to its left? There seems to be a new sports route there, but there are two bolts right next to each other for no apparent reason about half way up the line- then a lower off on the descent path just a little further to the left?


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 Post subject: Re: Havukallio
PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 08:33 
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Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 17:46
Posts: 129
The name of the crack is Potkan Kesä and the grade is, as you say, around 5, maybe 5-. I cleaned and climbed it last summer, and left the cleaning somewhat unfinished as I figured it will be easier to finish the job once the mud and the roots in the crack have dried out a bit. I just didn´t find time for it before I had to leave Finland about a week ago.

The bolts left of the crack were placed about two weeks ago. The two bolts next to each other are for making a belay stance, and their purpose is for people (on all kinds of courses etc) to be able to train multi pitch climbing. The stance is also a fairly natural place for the "pillar" line below to end, as from there on climbing moves to the face and gets a bit more difficult. The top part has not been climbed yet.

The lower off on the ascent / descent path is actually a top rope anchor. If you, like I, have a kid/kids at around 3 to 5 years of age, you will figure out what to do with it. There is also bolts on this "route", so basically anybody who can walk can also try lead climbing. Take your granma there and see what she thinks of it...

We also bolted a quite a nice slab line between Keväthuuma and Sauna, which is maybe 5. And then there is another new trad line (also done last summer) left of the route Jagulaari (number 1 in the topo) called Kolme Pientä Lintua, which has a really nice little dihedral type of start and it goes around 5- as well.

Jarkko


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 Post subject: Re: Havukallio
PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 13:21 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
The cleaning is actually fine. In the end I did the crux by pulling on a wide fist jam which was perfectly clean, so didn't really need the thinner bit of crack that I had cleaned deeper in - but you could probably now place even more gear at the crux than than the two solid piece I had, so it good and safe. It's a hard route to grade because that move is pretty brutal, whilst everything up to it is just fine. I reckon that it is perfectly graded as VS 5a if that helps anyone. :wink:

We should maybe make a list of all the best places people know of for little kids to climbs. I've realised it's quite rare to find good routes for them, because even on easy routes the holds are just far too far apart for someone who 110 cms tall. The best route I know of is the back wall at Rollarit. That's the first line my five year old did without being pulled up at all: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=115339

I'll try the other routes next time I'm there. Thanks for putting in the effort.


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 Post subject: Re: Havukallio
PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 19:28 
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Joined: Thu May 27, 2004 14:52
Posts: 50
Location: Helsinki
Looking also a recommendations for 3+ year old climber. So far I haven´found a route easy enough, so thanks Toby, I'l check that noisy old spot (It might be fun to go there after 7 years since I climb there last time, i head it has change?).


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 Post subject: Re: Havukallio
PostPosted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 22:12 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Another possible place for little kids is Käärmekallio - about 25 mtrs right of the bolted routes the cliff gets slabby. If I remember right you need some trad gear to build an anchor at the top, and there is a tree that helps direct the ropes the right way, but its easy for the little ones to scramble up. It's more than just walking, but for an adult its easy enough to solo up next to the kid and help suggest places for their hands and feet. My son was only just three when we went there but seemed to enjoy it.


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