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Slouppi • View topic - Aliensien korjaus?

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Tue Sep 25, 2018 05:02

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 Post subject: Aliensien korjaus?
PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 13:43 
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Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 02:00
Posts: 368
Nyyh! "viritinvaijeri" meni katki luottoalienista, toimii edelleen mutta virittäminen kahdella kädellä ei oikeen onnistu. Onkos kukaan itse korjaillut menestyksekkäästi alieneita vai saako vara osia jostain?

Eli ei sen kummempaa kuin siis 1/4 vaijerista jotka kiinnittyvät leukiin meni siis poikki.

Jos jollaan kokemuksii, niin otan vinkkejä kiitollisena vastaan.

Mikko


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 Post subject: Re: Aliensien korjaus?
PostPosted: Sun Aug 30, 2009 22:51 
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Joined: Wed Jun 19, 2002 02:00
Posts: 96
Location: Rollo
en tiedä. mutta bd:lle myydään valmista korjaussarjaa, en tiedä löytyykö vastaavaa alieneille.
http://www.rei.com/product/611079
kyllä noikin varmaan virittämällä menisi, ja yhtä hyvät vaijerit löytyy tosin varmaan k-raudasta.

mutta, jos olisin alieneiden käyttäjä, haluaisin lukea tämän:
http://www.shariconglobal.com/misc/pulltesting/RSaliens/Alien_Test_Report.pdf

jos ei jaksa lukea, lainaan lyhyesti (koskee 22 testattua alienia, kyseessä ei ole v.2006 tapaus vaan 2009):

"As for the Aliens, only 5 of the 13 new ones met their rated strength, with the percentage of the rating held
ranging from 63.3% to 116.7% and an overall average of 94.3%. Of the 9 used Aliens, only 2 met their rated
strength, with the percentage of the rating held ranging from 54.7% to 105.0% and an overall average of 81.9%.
Unfortunately there is no single issue that was the primary cause of failure for all of the cams, but rather there
were a number of issues that appear to have played a part on some or all of the cams. These issues include:
braze failure, swage failure, head failure, lobe deformation, axle deformation and incorrectly centered axle holes
that reduce the outward force available to keep the cam in the fixture during testing."


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 Post subject: Re: Aliensien korjaus?
PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2009 09:51 
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Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 02:00
Posts: 368
No voi hemmettis sentään!, luulin kiivenneeni parhailla kamoilla mitä $ saa.. ,mutta karu todellisuus aina paljastuu täällä. Kaikki kiipeämäni on siis ollut verrattavissa sooloon, kun ne "luotto"alienit ois kumminkin korkannut.. hehhee.

Mitenkäs toi nyt olleen on? Alienit kumminkin on niitä kalleimpia.. Oon ihmetelly kun oon vuosien varrella ostellu aina alieneita ja huomannu että esim. nyt norjasta peräisin olevissa alieneissa ei enää mene sellasta vaijeripunosta kaapelin ympärillä vaan ainoastaan kangasta, ihmettelin sitä jo vähä aikaisemmin. Ja muutenkin ne kaapeliviritykset on näköjään kaikissa erilaiset.

Tänx.

p.s aika magee mesta se petis


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 Post subject: Re: Aliensien korjaus?
PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2009 11:38 
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Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 02:00
Posts: 368
Jep!

Apu löyty K-raudasta---> nimellä pianolanka (n.3e/6m), tarpeeksi jäykkää mutta voi taivutella, ostin 0.5mm, luulen että alienin reikään olisi paras koko ollut 0.6mm tai 0.7mm.

Mut nyt toimii melkeen kuin uusi. :)

Siis petis=petäjävaara, kiitoksii vaan paikasta puuhamiehille.


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 Post subject: Re: Aliensien korjaus?
PostPosted: Mon Sep 14, 2009 21:55 
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Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2009 21:21
Posts: 12
tapsa wrote:
mutta, jos olisin alieneiden käyttäjä, haluaisin lukea tämän:
http://www.shariconglobal.com/misc/pulltesting/RSaliens/Alien_Test_Report.pdf

jos ei jaksa lukea, lainaan lyhyesti (koskee 22 testattua alienia, kyseessä ei ole v.2006 tapaus vaan 2009):

"As for the Aliens, only 5 of the 13 new ones met their rated strength, with the percentage of the rating held
ranging from 63.3% to 116.7% and an overall average of 94.3%. Of the 9 used Aliens, only 2 met their rated
strength, with the percentage of the rating held ranging from 54.7% to 105.0%

Kun omassa räkissä olevat Alienit alkoivat huolestuttamaan niin jaksoin linkin lukea... Mutta homma taitaa taantua pilkun viilaamisen tasolle. Pedantista dokumentoinnista sekä testauksesta huolimatta ilmeisesti CCH:n huonosti kommunikoimat speksit menivät sekaisin. Myyjän sivuilla /1/ on ilmoitettu UIAA speksit, joissa on pienemmät vetolujuudet kuin CCH:n omilla sivuilla /2/ olevat luvut.

Testissä verrattiin toteumaa noihin CCH:n ilmoittamiin vetolujuuksiin, vaikka testi pyrki toistamaan UIAA testin. Kun vertaa toteutuneita lujuuksia UIAA numeroihin ovat nuo %-luvut kaikki satasen paremmalla puolella. Vaikuttaa perinteiseltä puurot ja vellit tilanteelta. Ostaessa tuijotin noita UIAA lukuja, joten ei tullut nyt pettymystä...

Se onkin jo toinen asia, että esimerkiksi C3:t tuntuvat olevan UIAA numeroiden perusteella paljon kestävämpiä kuin Alienit.

/1/ http://www.mountaintools.com/cat/rclimb/cams/cch_aliens.htm
/2/ http://www.aliencamsbycch.com/products.html

Toi alla oleva ei ole kaunis, mutta siitä näkee luvut jos kiinnostaa.

Tyyppi UIAA kN* UIAA lbf pdf kN** pdf lbf Failed / kN Fail vs UIAA
Alien Black 5 1125 8.3 1867.5 5.3 106%
Alien Yellow 6 1350 12 2700 9.34 156%
Alien Orange 9 2025 15.57 3503.25 11.4 127%
Alien Grey 9 2025 12 2700 10.9 121%
Alien Red 8 2025 12 2700 12.1 151%

* UIAA: leuat 50% kiinni jollain melko sileällä pinnalla (alle 0.5mm karheus), sanoo pdf dokkari
** CCH:n oma: leuat on 80% kiinni graniitilla /2/


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 Post subject: Re: Aliensien korjaus?
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 19:50 
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Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 02:00
Posts: 368
Asiaa!! ne onkin taas siis ihan ok vehkeitä, onneks en ehtiny myydä pois ja ostaa campin tricamejä tilalle.

NYt tarvittais Rampo 4 (grivel) jäärautojen etupiikkejä, mistähän niitä sais? vai pitääkö taivutella itte.


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