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Slouppi • View topic - greideistä

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Wed Sep 26, 2018 02:30

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 Post subject: greideistä
PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 16:43 
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Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2001 02:00
Posts: 264
ukboulderingista poimittua. joku olisi kyllä voinut olla ystävällinen ja paljastaa tän hieman aiemmin.

This is normally only available to guidebook writers but you seem like a nice chap so I'll let you in on the secret. Dont tell anyone

Equation to work out sportsgrades

F = exp((L/Fb + AI/S)/H+(NC/WR)^B)

We know Fb and L=length of route, AI=average climbers ape index,S=steepness (as a %) H=average climbers height, NC = number of bolts on route, WR=weight of rope (varies for length of route, obviously) and B=boldness(1 for most sport routes and 2 for routes where a bolt is missing or they look kinda old).

Hope that clears things up for you


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 Post subject: Re: greideistä
PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 16:45 
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Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2007 19:42
Posts: 236
Jos et tiiä jotain greidii, kysy Jensiltä.


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 Post subject: Re: greideistä
PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 20:44 
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Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 144
Mitäs Jensillä on tuon kanssa tekemistä???

Vaikka ei tähän kuulukaan, niin naurattaa kun oikein muotia näyttää naapurimaan 8a.nu:ssa olevan Jensin haukkuminen. Julkaisi tai teki kaveri mitä tahansa, niin aina samat kommentit. Naurettavaa touhua :P

Tänäänkin joku älykääpiöbritti (samaa tasoa kuin ilmeisesti tämän topicin laskukaavan kehittänyt älykkö) haukkui kaverin omalla saitillaan aivan pystyyn. Taisi olla vielä joku UK Climbingin pääjehu. Ei kovin hyvien tapojen mukaista.

Sain muuten tuolla laskukaavalla Alibin vaikeusasteeksi 6c.


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 Post subject: Re: greideistä
PostPosted: Thu Oct 08, 2009 23:31 
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Joined: Wed Jun 06, 2007 19:42
Posts: 236
Öö, ehkä joku hymiö olisi ollut paikallaan ilmoittamaan että kyseessä oli sarkastinen lausunto jos tämä ei ihan kaikille auennut (vaikka herra varmasti mielellään antaisi mielipiteen reitin kuin reitin greidiin). Kommentti oli jatkoa tuolle aloituksen täysin päättömälle kaavalle johon skaalaan Jensiltä greidin kysyminen kuuluu.

UKC climbingin Michael Ryanin kommentit on myös syytä lukea pitäen mielessä brittiläinen huumorintaju (tosin viimeisessä episodissa kaveri on kyllä munannut itsensä).


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 Post subject: Re: greideistä
PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 07:01 
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2008 05:09
Posts: 244
a)Kuka on Jens

b)Mitä ovat Fb & ape index


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 Post subject: Re: greideistä
PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 09:44 
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Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 144
Kyllä ymmärsin yskän. Tulin vaan juuri 8a:n saitilta Slouppiin ja eka mikä oli, niin törmäsin tähän. Pitihän siinä jotain kommentoida.

Jensistä sen verran, että vaikka kaverilla on melkolailla oma tyyli, niin onhan toi saitti ainakin mun mielestä helvetin hyvä. Ja tossa Ryanin viimeisessä kommentissa muuten ei ollut pätkääkään brittihuumoria, kaveri oli täysin tosissaan.

Muille tiedoksi, että kannattaa käydä 8a.nu:n foorumilta lukemassa Steve McCluren "8c:n" onsaittia koskeva threadi.


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 Post subject: Re: greideistä
PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 13:30 
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Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2001 02:00
Posts: 298
Location: One Pint
hobgob wrote:
a)Kuka on Jens

b)Mitä ovat Fb & ape index


Juuri näin, kuka on tämä mystinen Jens jota kaikki niin parjaavat? Fb on lyhenne lauseesta Frech bastards ja ape index tarkoittaa tätä


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 Post subject: Re: greideistä
PostPosted: Fri Oct 09, 2009 14:18 
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Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2003 02:00
Posts: 99
Location: krunikka
VilleF wrote:
Juuri näin, kuka on tämä mystinen Jens jota kaikki niin parjaavat?


Jens on kaikkien greidikiipeilijöiden ylijumala.


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 Post subject: Re: greideistä
PostPosted: Sat Oct 10, 2009 13:54 
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Joined: Mon Feb 21, 2005 17:46
Posts: 129
Ehdottaisin että ennemminkin ylijumala on greidi ja kuka-tämä-Jens-ikinä-onkaan-hahmo on greidiuskovaisten ylipappi.

ttt:n kanssa käymäni keskustelun perusteella ehdotangreidausjärjestelmää, joka menee vitosesta ykköseen:

V paska reitti. Kannattaa kiivetä (vain ja ainoastaan) josmitään muuta ei ole tarjolla
IV huono reitti. Kannattaa kiivetä kun on jo kiivennyt kaikki paremmat tarjolla olevat
III reitti, joka kiivetään ennen edellä mainittuja, jos parempaa ei ole tarjolla
II hyvä reitti, joka kannattaa kiivetä heti ja aina kun mahdollista
I v***n hyvä reitti, joka jokaisen kiipeilijäksi itseään kutsuvan itsestään selvä velvollisuus on kiivetä välittömästi kun se on mahdollista


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