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Slouppi • View topic - Olhava, last weekend

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Fri Sep 21, 2018 23:22

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 Post subject: Olhava, last weekend
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 09:32 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Hello to the Helsinki and Lappeenranta posses we met in the lovely Olhava sunshine last weekend. Juha (hope I remember that right) send me a private mail with your email and I can send you some pictures of you on your possible new route. They are pretty decent - lots of sunshine and blue sky.

There is a blog post with some pictures here: http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2 ... great.html and a few other pictures here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/toby-north ... 571071718/

Finally was brave enough to try Suuri Leikkaus and found that a) it's superb and b) it's pretty easy. Does anyone else think it should be maybe 5+ rather than 6? I think all the routes I've done on the main wall to its left have been as hard or harder including Ruotsalaisten and Salama. It's a fantastic route though. Just take lots of fist sized gear.


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 Post subject: Re: Olhava, last weekend
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 10:38 
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Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 02:00
Posts: 368
hhhh, If it were in Louhos it would be 3a. :-?


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 Post subject: Re: Olhava, last weekend
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 11:11 
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Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 02:00
Posts: 368
btw what route is in revenne (bolted line trending rightwards, shares an anchor with a bolted crack) about 20m right of "urkupillit". it felt like 6c? A very nice line, I broke some footholds though.

I heard it is made by englishmen and there aren't many around..
Thanks for good work!


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 Post subject: Re: Olhava, last weekend
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 13:14 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
tukIain wrote:
hhhh, If it were in Louhos it would be 3a. :-?


Perhaps this is one of the reasons that I've never quite got a round to going to Louhos. I will go next summer and get ritually humiliated.

6c is a bit above my pay grade but the Revenne route you mention is probably this summers' Australian-English grudge match (Anglo-Aussie cooperation really). Tony and Simon prepared it and Tony finally got the FA after some friendly competition and a lot of miles travelled from Helsinki and Kuopio. As far as I know it's called "the Ashes" and they thought 6c as well. It's a fitting name! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Ashes Best not to call an Aussie and "Englishman" though! :wink:


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 Post subject: Re: Olhava, last weekend
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 14:16 
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Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 02:00
Posts: 368
ohh ..dont be scared by the grade in there, it just a local habit to grade hard climbs as they were a lot easier.. Loads of good climbs around 5+ to 6a, with the right grade, some harder stuff is much more harder than the grade suggests.

in my opinion bcoz mee soo weak.

Mikko


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 Post subject: Re: Olhava, last weekend
PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2009 18:29 
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Joined: Thu Jul 08, 2004 13:19
Posts: 27
Simon and I climbed the route at Reventeenvuori. I suggested 6c+and Simon thought 7a. Looks like we were a little out with the grading.


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 Post subject: Re: Olhava, last weekend
PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 11:40 
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Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 02:00
Posts: 368
Aight, not so out, I think. If its around 6c-7a---> classical 6c+, because we are so shy in finland to give grade 7 (land low self esteem and alcoholism) Nice line, well bolted! It made my day then.

Thanks.


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