Deprecated: Function set_magic_quotes_runtime() is deprecated in /var/www/customers/klippi/public_html/phpBB3/common.php on line 106
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /includes/session.php on line 160: htmlspecialchars(): charset `iso8859-10' not supported, assuming utf-8
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /includes/session.php on line 87: htmlspecialchars(): charset `iso8859-10' not supported, assuming utf-8
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /includes/session.php on line 129: htmlspecialchars(): charset `iso8859-10' not supported, assuming utf-8
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /includes/session.php on line 130: htmlspecialchars(): charset `iso8859-10' not supported, assuming utf-8
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /includes/session.php on line 214: htmlspecialchars(): charset `iso8859-10' not supported, assuming utf-8
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /includes/session.php on line 916: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /common.php:106)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /includes/session.php on line 916: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /common.php:106)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /includes/session.php on line 916: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /common.php:106)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /includes/session.php on line 1454: htmlspecialchars(): charset `iso8859-10' not supported, assuming utf-8
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /includes/functions.php on line 3529: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /common.php:106)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /includes/functions.php on line 3531: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /common.php:106)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /includes/functions.php on line 3532: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /common.php:106)
[phpBB Debug] PHP Notice: in file /includes/functions.php on line 3533: Cannot modify header information - headers already sent by (output started at /common.php:106)
Slouppi • View topic - Mixed climbing in Olhava

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Wed Sep 19, 2018 09:13

All times are UTC + 2 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 4 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Mixed climbing in Olhava
PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 09:58 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 09:47
Posts: 9
Location: Helsinki
Is there any restrictions for mixed climbing in Olhava or Haukkakallio? We are planning to come there for several days in January.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Re: Mixed climbing in Olhava
PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2009 14:14 
Offline

Joined: Sat Jul 05, 2003 02:00
Posts: 311
Location: Umeå, Ruotti
Hi,

there are two little icefalls on the left side of the Olhavanvuori. Left from "Ikaros". They are 7-12m long and grade about WI 3-4. There aren't really any mixed routes, and all freeroutes at the guidebook are of course banned. I wouldn't recommend Olhava for mixed- or iceclimbing. However, aidclimbing is quite nice . There are many cool aidlines around A2-A3+. Many of those are 90% cleanaid, so I wouldn't try to drytool those either.

-saku


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Re: Mixed climbing in Olhava
PostPosted: Wed Dec 02, 2009 18:26 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: Mon Oct 20, 2003 02:00
Posts: 69
Hi,

Pls bear in mind that Olhava is in the middle of Repovesi National Park, which pretty much prohibits all climbing activities that leave a trace to the stone or vegetation. Even free climbing at Olhava takes place on a special permit that e.g. limits further fixed pro placement and we should pay extra attention not to raise any curious eyebrows there. Earlier on, people were climbing snow/mixed terrain near Mustalampi, but with the introduction of NP that is nowadays a definite no-no and drytooling aid routes at Olhava would drastically violate Finnish climbing ethics. Some of us still might remember the (justified!) ranting & raving after some poor bastard dry tooled at Meikku boulder a couple of years ago...

I think the same rules apply by default to Haukkakallio (and any other known free climbing cliff), although we're not discussing a NP here. Being a free climbing cliff, no mixed climbing should be undertaken there without prior consent from the local climbing activists and landowners.

Given the dwindling possibilities for ice & mixed climbing in Finland, we cannot afford to get ourselves in further access problems.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Mixed climbing in Olhava
PostPosted: Thu Dec 03, 2009 11:54 
Offline

Joined: Tue Jul 19, 2005 09:47
Posts: 9
Location: Helsinki
Thank you very much. It was very informative.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 4 posts ] 

All times are UTC + 2 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group