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Slouppi • View topic - Karabiinin kestävyys

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Thu Nov 15, 2018 18:28

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2003 14:44 
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Joined: Thu Jan 17, 2002 02:00
Posts: 132
Location: Helsinki
Onko tietoa, mitä esim. karabiiniin merkitty 24 kN tarkoittaa?

Onko se
a) kuorma, jolla karabiini rikkoutuu
b) kuorma, jonka karabiini vielä juuri ja juuri kestää
c) kuorma, jonka karabiini reilusti (turvamarginaali) kestää?

Nyt siis puhutaan tietysti uudesta, valmistusviattomasta karabiinista.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2003 15:00 
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Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2001 02:00
Posts: 264
paras turvallisuustuntemus näyttää löytyvän rakka.netistä, joten kannattaa kysäistä sieltä!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2003 21:28 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2002 02:00
Posts: 86
Location: Grani
joo mutta tietty infosuodatin on hyvä olla päällä..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2003 23:14 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2002 02:00
Posts: 86
Location: Grani
Esim. Camp:in karabiinissa on kolme lukua:
1.pääaxeli(pituussuunta) 25kN
2.sivuaxeli(leveyssuunta) 8kN
3.pääaxeli(portti auki) 10kN

Kaikki luvut on Minimikestävyyslukuja.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2003 01:23 
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Joined: Thu Jan 17, 2002 02:00
Posts: 155
Location: Stadi
oikea vastaus on C
muistaakseni kyseessä oli se kuorma jonka karabiini kestää ilman pysyviä muodonmuutoksia


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2003 09:11 
Noi karabiinit luokitellaan yleensä 3 sigma -testillä. Testi tarkoittaa käytännössä, että hajoamisen keskiarvoon lisätään kolme kertaa keskihajonta. 99,87% karabiineista on siis vahvempia kuin luokitus (2kpl tuhannesta täten ei ole). Karabiineissa tilanne on rautakauppatavaraan siinä mielessä erilainen, että niissä myös paino on hyvin tärkeässä roolissa.

Täältä tarkemmin:
http://www.bdel.com/bd/quality_3sig.html

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Sampsa J. on 2003-02-16 09:17 ]</font>


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Feb 16, 2003 12:45 
Lisätään vielä selkeyden vuoksi sen verran, että oikea vastaus on lähimpänä a:ta. Mitään työlujuutta, eli c:tä karabiinin selkään painettu numero ei ole nähnytkään. Rautakauppatavarassa vastaavasti murtolujuudet ovat usein moninkertaisia työlujuuteen nähden.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2003 16:37 
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Joined: Tue Sep 10, 2002 02:00
Posts: 21
Nimitystä "Rautakauppatavara" käytetään yleensä kuvaamaan niitä varusteita jotka ovat täysin luokittelemattomia, eli joista ei aina ole muita takeita kun myyjän arvio tai usein arvaus. Kiipeilyyn käytettävissä sulkurenkaissa ei ole liiemmin turvallisuuskerrointa joten aloituksen A vaihtoehto olisi aika lailla oikea. Teollisuuden käyttöön tarkoitetut luokitellut tavarat ovat usein paljon kestävämpiä ja niissä on usein 3-4 kertainen turvallisuuskerroin mutta painoakin on sitten aivan liikaa (monet työkäyttöön tarkoitetut sulkurenkaat ym.)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 26, 2003 19:45 
Liikkeiden valinnassa kannattaa harrastaa jonkin verran luonnonvalintaa, ettei ihan joka paikasta osta kaikkea kakkaa. Escape-biinerit tosin voinee ostaa mistä tahansa.

Joskus aikoinaan nuukailtiin pulttien kanssa ja liimattiin happosta kierretankoa seinään. Nykyään ei tosin moiseen tarvitse ryhtyä, kun SKIL kustantaa koko huvin.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Sampsa J. on 2003-02-26 19:46 ]</font>


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