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Slouppi • View topic - Already dry places

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Wed Nov 14, 2018 20:07

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 Post subject: Already dry places
PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 11:41 
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Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:22
Posts: 6
Hello

Im here on exchange semester so i really dont know which places are already climbable and which not.

Could you recommend me places where it´s already possible to climb?? I have a car and live in Helsinki, so distances up to 100 km wouldnt be a problem. I prefer rope climbing but i like bouldering as well.

Many thanks for your help!


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 Post subject: Re: Already dry places
PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 15:47 
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Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 17:30
Posts: 169
Joo olisi kivaa saada vähän updeittejä missä on kuivaa. Ulkona on jo valon ja lämmön puolesta täydellinen kiipeilykeli, mutta ei tee mieli ajaa pari tuntia katsomaan läpimärkää kalliota. Eli laittakaa viestejä, missä kannattaa käydä ja missä ei.

In English: good question, hopefully everybody can chime in with information about where it is dry already.


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 Post subject: Re: Already dry places
PostPosted: Fri Mar 26, 2010 23:28 
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Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:22
Posts: 6
i can just say that koivusaari is pretty dry already...


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 Post subject: Re: Already dry places
PostPosted: Wed Mar 31, 2010 15:01 
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Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:22
Posts: 6
Olhava?

Does somebody have a topo for it?


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 Post subject: Re: Already dry places
PostPosted: Thu Apr 01, 2010 19:39 
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Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 17:30
Posts: 169
kini86 wrote:
Olhava?

Does somebody have a topo for it?


The topo for Olhava can be found in the topo book "Suomen kalliokiipeilyreitit 2008"

Rollareilla feissireitit ovat jo kuivia, mm. Lanttumaakari, Carte d'Or, Mantra ja Bukowski.


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 Post subject: Re: Already dry places
PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 00:46 
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Joined: Wed Aug 21, 2002 02:00
Posts: 26
Location: 6a
Louhoksella kuivaa osittain. 7-10 reittii kuivana välil 5a-7b. Valuttelee viel sielttäält. Käytiin tänään kiipeemäs. Esifleikki, Port to, Släbäkärppä, Poikkari, Kanttinäätä, Pöllövartio, Peruskulma ja ehka jo Lorditkin Kuivana. Parkkipaikka täysin lumen peitossa joten kulkuneuvot täytyy jättää viisaasti, ettei tuki tietä/bussipysäkkiä! Louhoksen pohjalla lunta ainaskii 50cm eli ehkä kannattaa laittaa jalkaan muut kun lenkkarit. Kitka on aivan mahtava. Hyviä kiipeilyjä T: 6a


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 Post subject: Re: Already dry places
PostPosted: Fri Apr 02, 2010 13:26 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 02:00
Posts: 75
An old topo for Olhava (with all the main routes) can me found at http://www.mountainshop.fi/ > Kiipeilypaikat > 'scroll down to' Kouvola ja ympäristö > and click on OLHAVANLAMMEN. There is no direct link to this page.

Also all the routes on the main face (Laatta) can be found here: http://27crags.com/crags/olhava/topos

At Olhava their might be an issue with the lake from which the main face rises. The ice could be too soft to walk on and too hard to row through. Although, I guess its possible to abseil into or traverse to the island under the main routes.

Cheers,

Jody


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 Post subject: Re: Already dry places
PostPosted: Sat Apr 03, 2010 13:32 
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Joined: Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:22
Posts: 6
@ JussiP:

Could u maybe answer in English as well? I tried google translator, but didnt work out well ;)

you told about an old quarry somewhere, but i dont really know what you mean or where it is??

thanx anyway

by the way, was yesterday in tampere, at the mustavuore (or something like that), already dry and nice climbing, it´s positive climbing


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 Post subject: Re: Already dry places
PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 12:09 
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Joined: Wed Aug 21, 2002 02:00
Posts: 26
Location: 6a
In short: http://www.slouppi.net/cliff.phtml?cliff=Louhos

There are some dry routes to climb if the weather allows. The following routes should be dry: Esifleikki, Port to, Släbäkärppä, Poikkari, Kanttinäätä, Pöllövartio, Peruskulma. There's lots of snow on the quarry floor and i think water under the snow by now. Parking is a bit of a problem because the car park hasn't been cleared of snow. Please take care that you don't cause any upset through bad parking. I parked on the side of the bicycle path(yes blocking half of it only). I think 2 or 3 cars can be parked easily. Maybe it's possible to park at the old mill premises if the gates are open (which is the case mon thru fri). Have a good climb. Friction of superb!

Jussi


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 Post subject: Re: Already dry places
PostPosted: Sun Apr 04, 2010 12:20 
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Joined: Wed Aug 21, 2002 02:00
Posts: 26
Location: 6a
The guide for Louhos in the 'slouppi' database needs some updating. Any projects mentioned on the slouppi guide have now been climbed, so please fell free to have a go.


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 Post subject: Re: Already dry places
PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 11:39 
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Joined: Sun Nov 15, 2009 18:08
Posts: 1
Solvalla tested yesterday. Nearly half of the routes are already climbable.
The last few moves (after the last bolt) of "Jupintappaja" are pretty wet.
The bottom section of "Indiana Jones" was wet but still easily doable.

Left side of the cliff (lines up to maybe 2 or 3) looked pretty wet and so did lines 10 & 11 where water was running down. Rest of the lines appeared to be climbable.

Topo and driving instructions


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 Post subject: Re: Already dry places
PostPosted: Thu Apr 08, 2010 21:56 
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Joined: Sun Dec 07, 2008 11:57
Posts: 88
7 Veljestä (8b) in Nurmijärvi is dry as it got it's 3rd repeat today by Anthony Gullsten o/ whoop whoop congrats...

_________________
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- Sakke


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 Post subject: Re: Already dry places
PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 08:48 
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Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 17:30
Posts: 169
At Kvarnby the right sector was dry, with only Kiilahalkeama and Evä wet. Murkkuhalkeama's starting crux can be bypassed, since the snow is so thick that you can reach the good holds above it. :wink:

The main sector was wet and it looked like it will take a couple of weeks for it to dry up.


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 Post subject: Re: Already dry places
PostPosted: Fri Apr 09, 2010 20:50 
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2008 05:09
Posts: 244
konsepti wrote:
7 Veljestä (8b) in Nurmijärvi is dry as it got it's 3rd repeat today by Anthony Gullsten o/ whoop whoop congrats...


Missä kallio, jolla kyseinen reitti on, on?

IT


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 Post subject: Re: Already dry places
PostPosted: Sun Apr 11, 2010 20:06 
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Joined: Tue May 06, 2008 13:11
Posts: 159
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Last edited by Ile82 on Fri Apr 25, 2014 21:03, edited 1 time in total.

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