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Slouppi • View topic - Replacing bolts on sports routes

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Sun Nov 18, 2018 09:39

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 Post subject: Replacing bolts on sports routes
PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 09:24 
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Joined: Thu Jul 08, 2004 13:19
Posts: 27
I was climbing at Falkberget yesterday and I noticed that someone has replaced the bolts on Sledgehammer. It made me think that in some of Finland's best sport crags (e.g. Nummi and Falkberget) the bolts might be getting a little old. It seems to me that there has been a massive amount of new routes bolted, but very little in the way of replacing old bolts. I'm not suggesting that they should be replaced, but just wondering if it would soon become necessary. If there was a consensus that these bolts should be replaced, I would be very happy to contribute some of my time towards this, particularly so at Falkberget because in my opinion these routes are some of the best in the capital region.

Happy climbing. Tony


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 Post subject: Re: Replacing bolts on sports routes
PostPosted: Wed Aug 18, 2010 23:40 
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Joined: Tue Apr 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 144
Hi Tony,

and I am glad that you enjoy climbing at Falkberget!

Actually Sledgehammer was bolted in 2003, which is 5 years later than most of the other routes at the main wall, that is the main reason I used chemical bolts. So there has been no rebolting (I hope :P )

There is no doubt that at some time the old bolts at Falkberget need to be replaced and I gladly accept your help if you have experience in bolting. Due to access problems also at this cliff rebolting must be planned properly though. Pls send me an e-mail, my address is peter.hammer@kiipeilyareena.com

best regards
Peter


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 Post subject: Re: Replacing bolts on sports routes
PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 08:24 
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Joined: Fri Oct 21, 2005 17:30
Posts: 169
I haven't climbed so much at Falkberget, but one crag which would benefit from some rebolting is Rollarit. Quite a few of the hangers are loose, and some routes (like Alkumetsä and Route 66) would benefit from an additional bolt. Now they don't see much traffic. Of course additional bolts would require an ok from the FA.


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 Post subject: Re: Replacing bolts on sports routes
PostPosted: Thu Aug 19, 2010 09:22 
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Joined: Mon Sep 21, 2009 20:38
Posts: 35
I Think Route 66 has earlier one more bolt in the beginning of the route, but for some reason it has been removed.


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 Post subject: Re: Replacing bolts on sports routes
PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 09:37 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 02:00
Posts: 75
IMHO there are quite a few older sports lines in Finland that would require a few more bolts. I would guess that in the past the combination of first ascentists having to buy their own bolts (which I believe were quite expensive at the time) and the poorer drill technology led to some lines (especially 'easier' lines that perhaps the experienced first ascentist had no trouble climbing) to be sparsely bolted.
However, today with cheaper bolts (perhaps even subsidized by SKIL) and better drills perhaps it’s time to fully bolt pure sports-lines, 'pure' meaning not traditional lines with the odd bolt.

I have a drill and can help with the process if required.

Cheers,

Jody


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 Post subject: Re: Replacing bolts on sports routes
PostPosted: Fri Aug 20, 2010 15:14 
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Joined: Thu Jul 08, 2004 13:19
Posts: 27
Just to clarify, in my original post I wasn't suggesting adding any new bolts to routes. I was only wondering if the bolts at certain crags were getting old and whether there was any need to replace them.

Happy Climbing,

Tony


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