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Slouppi • View topic - A close call in Luhti

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Tue Nov 13, 2018 20:25

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 Post subject: A close call in Luhti
PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 22:40 
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Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2002 02:00
Posts: 161
A huge block came crashing down today at the Luhti crag, barely missing the climber who detached the block simply by using it as a handhold. And it was not an individual or loose block either, the seemingly solid rock literally just came apart. The climber fell together with the block in what looked like as if he was holding the block on his lap, but somehow the block still missed him and continued down as he was arrested by his belayer. The climber escaped with only minor scratches.

I cannot figure out whether the route in question was Ma Route or La Cashette, but those of you who know the place, can check out the picture on my blog at http://ossieskola.wordpress.com. (The pictures were too big, this forum does not allow for very large files.) In the picture you see two pieces of protection and the block came apart a little above and to the left of the last piece of protection. There’s also a picture of the block, with a helmet to give proportion.

Now within the last week I have witnessed two cases of broken rock at two different crags. The first was caused by fall on a piece of protection which broke the rock and this last one was even more surprising and unexplainable. So I would say the message is this: beware, it could happen when you least expect it. With this last incident, considering the size of the block there is really only one advice: the belayer should be alert, preferrably positioned out of the way (just like in ice climbing). For smaller pieces wearing a helmet is also a good idea.

Be safe,

Ossi

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Ich habe Pläne, grosse Pläne...
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 Post subject: Re: A close call in Luhti
PostPosted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 23:45 
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Joined: Tue May 12, 2009 20:26
Posts: 13
Sounds like a close call, I'm glad you survived. For sure it's not uncommon to see loose rock even on quite popular crags although it might be less common problem here in Finland. Last time I was at Havukallio few weeks ago there was a similar size block that looked like it had recently fallen down from the top of a popular route Nössö. The block lied in front of the route and there was a fresh looking dirt hole near the anchors. There also were some huge loose blocks hanging inside a big dihaderal on a small ledge near the top of the same route. I wouldn't say they are dangerously there but a careless person might rip them down if one would trust them blindly as a good hand hold.

Better be careful up there.


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 Post subject: Re: A close call in Luhti
PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2011 03:49 
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2008 05:09
Posts: 244
Fucking the . :D
That looks more like a large chunk rather then a huge block, wich would in my opinnion be slightly smaller then a small boulder &knowing luhti, it would be theoritically possible to drop a boulder from the wall, but is that fucker crystal :o ? Did you take it with you ?

Must be the solarstorm &full moon ripping the rocks from the wall...


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 Post subject: Re: A close call in Luhti
PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2011 06:07 
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Joined: Thu Jul 08, 2004 13:19
Posts: 27
That certainly was an impressive piece of rock you pulled off. I'm glad that everyone was alright. I was one of the people who came later to see if everything was alright. About two weeks ago, I pulled off a piece of rock about the proportions of a large laptop from Pätkätyö. I had realized that it was very loose when climbing the route and had pulled it off fairly easily when lowering to save anyone else from meeting that problem on lead. Luhti is a great crag, possibly my favorite in Finland but there is some shockingly loose rock.

Does anyone know if the detached block on Kansipoju has been glued in place? When you look closely at the bottom it looks like there is some traces of glue.

Tony


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 Post subject: Re: A close call in Luhti
PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2011 09:12 
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Joined: Wed May 19, 2010 22:45
Posts: 54
There are also loose pieces of rock on Pienenlainen pettymys, Sarcophagus Groove and No Cry.
In general, there´s lots of fallen pieces on ground under the crag, so people should be careful climbing there. One of my favorite crags too, as the rock is of special kind.


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 Post subject: Re: A close call in Luhti
PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2011 10:06 
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Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2002 02:00
Posts: 55
Location: Helsinki
The Kansipoju block was glued as a precaution when bolting.


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 Post subject: Re: A close call in Luhti
PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2011 12:07 
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Joined: Tue May 08, 2007 12:58
Posts: 20
I climbed the route (Ma Route) just a week ago or so. If I remember right the hold in question was a big jug which is used when exiting the crack below. It felt pretty solid but apparently was not. Be careful out there, Luhti especially has several scary loose blocks that might come crashing down any day.

Antti.


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 Post subject: Re: A close call in Luhti
PostPosted: Fri Aug 19, 2011 17:20 
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Joined: Wed Sep 25, 2002 02:00
Posts: 161
Just to clarify: it wasn't me who fell with the block. I was watching a friend attempt an on-sight of a different route and just happened to see the whole thing from a few meters' distance.

And I would definitely call it a block, the piece of rock must have weighed easily 50 kilos, probably more. The holds people have been using were on one side of the block. The picture doesn't really do the block justice, somehow the perspective makes the block look smaller than it is. Or maybe my helmet is just gigantic. But the block is there and easy to find, anybody can go and check it out.

Ossi

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http://ossieskola.wordpress.com/
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