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Slouppi • View topic - Climbing in the Wall Street Journal!

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Wed Nov 21, 2018 20:08

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2003 09:04 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
The bolt war goes mainstream:

http://online.wsj.com/article_email/0,, ... m5,00.html

I like the "vertical hiking" line. Not heard that one before.

Not sure why the auto-link hasn't worked, you need to cut paste I guess.


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Toby on 2003-06-12 10:06 ]</font>


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2003 09:40 
A really good one. A working link here :smile:

I especially like this part which clarifies the bolting situation in general quite a bit (applies to Finland, too):

Now, a prominent German climber, Alexander Huber, is soliciting support for an expedition to unbolt a route put up last year by an international group on El Gigante, a 2,500-foot cliff in Basaseachic National Park, Mexico. The route's name, "Logical Progression," particularly annoys traditionalists.

"They see us as the old guys who are going to die, and they are the new generation, and they call their style the new style," the 35-year-old Mr. Huber says.


On another source about the same route:

In the Spring of 2002 our team of Peter Baumeister (Germany), Bert VanLint (Belgium) and Lucas Laeser (Colorado), established the world’s largest sport route on El Gigante naming it “Logical Progression” (VI 5.12d 28 fully-bolted pitches). Our anti-ethical /traditional style of rap bolting the wall (not really new to the climbing world) took almost two months of work but produced what we think is a truly one of a kind experience. Cecelia Buil and Carlos Garcia immediately said what we have created is wrong. Cecelia and Carlos, although they have bolted and climbed many sport routes, threatened to remove the bolts on the route because “sport climbers do not belong on big walls”. If the route survives the threats of the area’s original locals, we believe it is destined to become a new school classic

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Sampsa J. on 2003-06-12 10:44 ]</font>


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2003 11:05 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
The name "Logical Progression" has been used before to annoyance of some. About three or four winters ago Mark Garthwaite put up a single pitch mixed route in Scotland of that name. He preplaced all the (trad) gear and then worked the route over a number of visits - all not really done in any systematic way before on Scottish winter routes. The route was finally headpointed/redpointed at M9 although some say Garth doesn't know his own strenght and its undergraded. Neil Gresham said it was as hard as redpointing 8b+! All the Ole Skool said it was not a logical progression at all, but a perversion.

Of course all Drum'n'Baseheads will know that the name itself was inspired by the LTJ Bukem classic album from the mid 90s that brought Drum'n'base to the masses.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 12, 2003 11:54 
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Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2001 02:00
Posts: 264
we increase the pleasure and ease the stress as we progress..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2003 11:42 
Which could be said in other words:

"Climbers say newcomers put up permanent bolts merely to make hard climbs easier. (WSJ)"

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Sampsa J. on 2003-06-13 12:42 ]</font>


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2003 12:08 
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Posts: 264
i was trying to refer mc conrad on the album toby mentioned but nevermind.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2003 13:22 
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Location: Vantaa
Quote:
On 2003-06-13 13:08, olli wrote:
i was trying to refer mc conrad on the album toby mentioned but nevermind.


You have fine taste in music then sir! Actually its must be a year or so since I last listened to it and I missed your reference as well - thinking it referred to bolts :oops: - better go and dig it out and give it another listen.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 13, 2003 13:27 
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Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2001 02:00
Posts: 264
you sure should. definitely an album that always sounds equally good..


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 09, 2003 10:48 
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Posts: 15
Bought the double CD in Boulder, CO in -98, during a climbing trip. The shop keeper suggested it as a reference D&B album... still my only D&B-album, so somewhat a coincidence...


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