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Slouppi • View topic - Minkälaiset kengät?

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Tue Sep 18, 2018 20:21

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 Post subject: Minkälaiset kengät?
PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 22:15 
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Joined: Thu Mar 24, 2011 12:22
Posts: 18
Kun alotin, niin ostin ne halvimmat ja mukavat kengät. Sen jälkeen samat kuin kaikilla muilla - Sportiva Miura. Nyt ostin kolmannet kengät - Sportivan Pythonit. Kengät tuntuu hyviltä. Tuli kuitenkin mieleen, että kuinka paljon ne kengät oikein vaikuttaa. Oisko niin, että kengät alkaa vaikuttamaan kun kiipeillään 7-8 gradeilla?


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 Post subject: Re: Minkälaiset kengät?
PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 23:49 
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Joined: Fri Feb 14, 2003 02:00
Posts: 301
Location: Espoo
Riippuu tosi paljon reitistä. Joskus kenkä vaikuttaa vitosen reitillä, joskus se ei vaikuta kasinkaan reitillä.

Itse oon kiivenny sisällä ja ulkona 7b+:n boulderit Crocseilla. Ilman kenkiä 7a:n.

Joskus nihkeä vitosen reitti Fontsussa on mennyt vasta kenkien vaihdon jälkeen.

Mut yks näppärä ero on tässä:
La Sportivan kenkien kumi toimii heikommin kylmässä ilmassa kuin 5.10:n.
Eli jos ulkona on vaikkapa +7C, 5.10 kumi toimii paremmin.
Sit taas +20C:ssä 5.10:n kumi alkaa ikävästi pehmetä ja murtua läskien alla siinä missä La Sportivan kumi toimii a-ok.

Ja koiranleuoille: La Sportivassa Vibram (XSGrip, XSGrip2, XSEdge) ja 5.10:ssä Stealth (Onyx, Mystique, C4)


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