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Slouppi • View topic - Årtun & Gravdal onnettomuusraportti

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Tue Nov 20, 2018 15:37

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 Post subject: Årtun & Gravdal onnettomuusraportti
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 18:21 
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Joined: Sun May 11, 2003 02:00
Posts: 335
Location: Hki/Tku
Lyhyt englanniksi:
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web12s/alpi ... e-rogaland

Pitkä norjaksi kuvineen:
http://brv.no/postmann/dbase/bilder/Uly ... 0203-1.pdf


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 Post subject: Re: Årtun & Gravdal onnettomuusraportti
PostPosted: Wed Apr 18, 2012 21:24 
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Joined: Wed Jun 19, 2002 02:00
Posts: 96
Location: Rollo
mun mielestä jotenkin silmiinpistävää tossa raportissa on se kuva siitä fleikistä silloin kun se on ollut vielä seinässä kiinni - kuinka usein tollaisista ottaa kiinni ja olettaa että se nyt vaan on niin iso, ja/tai että täähän on kiveä, ei se mihinkään lähde vaikka vähän joustaiskin. ja pakkohan siitä on vetää jos siitä aikoo ohi mennä.


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 Post subject: Re: Årtun & Gravdal onnettomuusraportti
PostPosted: Thu Apr 19, 2012 14:03 
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Joined: Sun May 11, 2003 02:00
Posts: 335
Location: Hki/Tku
joo. Tosi on mitä Tapsa turisee. Itsekin olen joskus tehnyt ständin "halkeamaan", joka ei ollutkaan oikeastaan halkeama, vaan rako emäkallion ja tuon kokoluokan (no ehkä vähän pienemmän, mutta kuitenkin) blokin välissä. Kun frendiä kuormitti, niin se heilutti koko blokkia. Onneksi ständissä oli kamaa myös toisessa, oikeassa halkeamassa. kuumottavaa. Monesti perustellaan, että "kun se blokki/pilari/jääputous on niin painava, niin ei se kiipeilijän paino siinä enää tunnu missään...". Noh, tällä kertaa se oli liikaa.


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 Post subject: Re: Årtun & Gravdal onnettomuusraportti
PostPosted: Fri Apr 20, 2012 21:37 
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Joined: Fri Jun 04, 2004 20:41
Posts: 231
Mä oon kerran ripannu ständin vastaavan fleikin takaa. Kaks kamua samassa halkeamassa ja halkeama aukes. Jonkinmoinen lentohan siitä tuli, mutta onneks ei sattunu pahasti.

Sen jälkeen rupesin fundeeraamaan, että ständissä pitäisi olla aina mieluummin kiiloja ja hakoja kuin frendejä. Tän jälkeen oon aika epävarma siitä, kannattaako frendejä ylipäätänsä käyttää pienempien fleikkien takana. Frendin kulma on about 14 astetta ja siitä tulee lyhyen sini-cosini-matikan jälkeen tulokseksi 4x. Eli frendi aiheuttaa nelinkertaisen sivukuormituksen siihen nähden mitä sitä vedetään alaspäin.

French free frendistä on sama kuin vetäisi fleikkiä 320 kiloo sivulle. Putoaminen vastaisi hallitunkin generoimaa voimaa, mutta hetkelliset liikemäärät ja massat on sillo kiipeilijän puolella.

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