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Slouppi • View topic - Haukankallio

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Wed Nov 21, 2018 20:19

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2003 17:20 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Does anyone know the history of the no. 1 wallnut stuck in the roof crack in the huge roof right of Suuri leikkaus at Haukankallio? Has the line been climbed? The rest of the route looks quite feasible, but that move looks absolutely desperate.

More people should visit Haukankallio, it has some excellent routes. Suuri leikkaus and Kampa must be the two best routes of their grade in Southern Finland. Nak Nak is also good underneath the dirt - it is now a lot cleaner than it was as it had three ascents in one day when I was there a couple of weeks ago.

It a bit of a vicious circle as the crag won't get cleaner until it gets climbed on more, but it won't get climbed on that much because it is dirty.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2003 14:38 
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Joined: Fri Apr 26, 2002 02:00
Posts: 276
Why don't you just take a brush and clen it! Same applies to this Olhis-guy - no point just whinge about dirt!

Do you really think there's some cleaningpatrol going about just to make your life easier? If you fancy some abandonded craggs and routes, you got to pay the price!!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2003 08:56 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Quote:
On 2003-08-08 15:38, MRoutsi wrote:
Why don't you just take a brush and clen it! Same applies to this Olhis-guy - no point just whinge about dirt!


Is the heat starting to get to you? I suggest a cool drink and sitting in the shade... By the way, who is "this Olhis-guy?"

You missed my point completely. First of all, we have in effect cleaned all the routes we've led at Haukankallio, just by climbing them. Just to place the gear you need to clean the cracks out and brush the worst of the dirt off the holds before holding/standing on them. Suuri Leikaus and Kampa are both reasonably clean anyway, although we cleaned the cracks out a bit more. Nak Nak was dirty but the other guy who led it, plus me and my partner's ascent took a lot of the dirt off it. One guy also climbed Vaellus, and judging by the amount of crap raining down on his belayer, he was doing a good job of cleaning that.

[/quote]
Do you really think there's some cleaningpatrol going about just to make your life easier? If you fancy some abandonded craggs and routes, you got to pay the price!!
[/quote]

Of course not. I just wondered why they are 'abandoned'? People are forever moaning about there not be that much climbing in Finland, but you have 30 metre high crags, less than an hour from Helsinki that very few people visit. But drive past Rollarit on any sunny summers night and there will be cars there, some times a dozen or more. Same for Nuuksio. Those routes get polished, whilst other routes disappear under the dirt.

In past summers I've cleaned virtually all the routes at Tussinkoski and given them roughly accurate grades, and put the info here on Sloppi. But I don't think I've ever met another climber there. So the routes get dirty again. Climbs don't need a "cleaning patrol", they just need people to do them to keep them clean. I used to think that maybe these routes just aren't the type that people are interested in (easy to mid-grades, trad) but there the popularity of similar routes at Rollarit and Jaanankallio (even Olhava) seems to suggest this isn't the case. Perhaps people just like to climb in a social atmosphere with other climbers about?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2003 10:02 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2002 02:00
Posts: 36
Location: Kulosaari
Haha, I think i'm the olhis-guy. I mentioned that there were routes at the sectors down the lake that were incredibly dirty when i visited. I didnt mean that someone should keep them clean, but asked why they weren't being climbed.

Crags are like stores, even though all of them offer merchandise that people want, some get popular and some dont. Things like access and natural beauty can affect these things. For some reason, Rollarit is a popular practice crag, but if I had a car I would definitely visit other crags on weekends! If I only climbed at a single crag I would easily die of boredom cause once you've climbed all the routes you can onsight you just have a bunch of projects! I mean, projects are nice but I definitely like just climbing moderate routes.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2003 10:07 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
You can get to Tussinkoski by bus! I used to go there that way before I had a car. There is a bus stop at the end of the road, 200 mtrs walking, or less. Just take a big brush with you. :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat May 22, 2004 15:34 
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Joined: Sat May 22, 2004 15:08
Posts: 4
hehee :D !i live about 7kilometers away from haukankallio!which is cool becouse i can go climbing there when ever i want!but i havent been there for a long time.but jeah they are pretty dirty the routes :lol: and there havent been many climbers lately.but it feels like it`s comeing more popular this year.i think :roll: but jeah.


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 Post subject: Re: Haukankallio
PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2009 10:42 
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Joined: Wed May 28, 2003 02:00
Posts: 49
Location: Helsinki
Morjens,
Missä kunnossa Haukankallion reitit mahtavat olla? Käykö tuolla kukaan enää kiipeämässä?


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 Post subject: Re: Haukankallio
PostPosted: Wed Oct 14, 2009 07:18 
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2008 05:09
Posts: 244
Kävin otteilemassa/pulteroimassa, mut reiteistä en tiedä.

(kalliomaalaus hirvi on kool)


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 Post subject: Re: Haukankallio
PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 07:05 
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Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2003 02:00
Posts: 54
Location: Espoo
Is Haukankallio in Kerava, or am I totally wrong?


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 Post subject: Re: Haukankallio
PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 07:38 
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2008 05:09
Posts: 244
Se on leppäkoskella.

http://www.mountainshop.fi/ *klik* "kiipeilypaikat" löytyy tarkemmat suuntimat.


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 Post subject: Re: Haukankallio
PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 08:24 
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Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 13:31
Posts: 18
Location: Espoo
Eipä tuonne kannata pahemmin mennä ellei harrasta teknistä... reitit ovat sen verran likaisia ja täynnä sammalisia hyllyjä. 2 vuotta sitten kallion päällä oli tolkuttomasti maa-ampiaispesiä, joten varmistaminen ylhäältä oli aika tuskaista. Paikka soveltuu paremmin picnik retkeilyyn ja maisemien ihailuun kuin kiipeilyyn.


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 Post subject: Re: Haukankallio
PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 09:27 
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2008 05:09
Posts: 244
:lol:

Empä spotannut amppareita, mut siinä oikealla on mukavia boulderkorkeuxisia kallioita, joilla voi könytä picnicin yhteydessä.


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 Post subject: Re: Haukankallio
PostPosted: Thu Oct 15, 2009 16:37 
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Joined: Sun May 11, 2003 02:00
Posts: 335
Location: Hki/Tku
Rommi wrote:
Eipä tuonne kannata pahemmin mennä ellei harrasta teknistä... reitit ovat sen verran likaisia ja täynnä sammalisia hyllyjä. 2 vuotta sitten kallion päällä oli tolkuttomasti maa-ampiaispesiä, joten varmistaminen ylhäältä oli aika tuskaista. Paikka soveltuu paremmin picnik retkeilyyn ja maisemien ihailuun kuin kiipeilyyn.


Ach, kyllä tuolla pari vuotta sitten tuli oikein hauska päivä vietettyä. Olihan osa reiteistä vähän sammaleessa (ei pahasti), mutta hyvää seikkailukiipeilymeininkiä siellä on. "Topon" (vanhassa mustassa topopainoksessa muuten reitit taisi olla vielä päinvastaisessa järjestyksessä) greiditkin on jänniä, kun ne on ilmoitettu jonkin vanhan teknisen kiipeilyn greidin mukaan, jolloin oli ilmeisesti ihan ok vetää haoista ja astua niiden päälle. Eli ei ne pelkkiä viitosen reittejä ole, löytyy sieltä tiukempaakin "luomu-onsight-olenko-pois-reitiltä-vai-onko-tämä-uusi-reitti" -tyylisiä linjojakin. :) Usea topon viitosen reitti on varmaan jotain kuutosen vapaakiipeilyä luonnollisilla varmistuksilla.


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 Post subject: Re: Haukankallio
PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2009 09:44 
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Joined: Wed May 28, 2003 02:00
Posts: 49
Location: Helsinki
Pitihän se kallio käydä tarkistamassa. Pitää yhtyä Paulin mielipiteeseen. Hivenen törkyistähän tuolla oli, mutta samalla myös oikein mukavaa kiipeilyä. Itseasiassa Kaukalo (Punaisen topon mukaan) tarjoaa greidissään mitä mainiointa kiiipeilyä koko 25 metrin mitaltaan.

Suosittelen käymään jossain vaiheessa jos seikkailullisempi kiipeily kiinnostaa. Harja kannattaa ottaa mukaan niin voi samalla raaputella kriittisimpiä otteita puhtaammiksi. Paikka soveltuu myös hyvin kovilla kengillä kiipeämiseen.


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 Post subject: Re: Haukankallio
PostPosted: Sat Sep 25, 2010 22:23 
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Joined: Wed May 19, 2010 22:45
Posts: 54
Kävinpä tänään pyörähtämässä Haukankalliolla. Näytti sitten viime näkemän (ehkä 6v sitten) ilmestyneen uudenkarheita pultteja yhden sporttilinjan verran ja muutama yläankkuri. Lieneekö tuo sportti kiivetty ja greidattu, anyone..?

Ja onkohan tuolla jotain projektia käynnissä kallion kehittämiseksi/palauttamiseksi kiipeilykäyttöön? Paikkahan on hieno ja potentiaalia omaava. "Massoja" ajatellen tosin vähän sensitiivinen, sillä lähin talo on suoraan kallion alla


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