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Slouppi • View topic - Onko teknossa sääntöjä?

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Wed Nov 21, 2018 19:50

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 Post subject: Onko teknossa sääntöjä?
PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 19:30 
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Joined: Sun Jun 05, 2011 07:55
Posts: 12
Tässä olen vähän opettelmassa teknistä kiipeilyä. Mieleen on tullut muutamia kiipeilyeettisiä juttuja:
-Onko teknossa redpointteja, flässejä ja onsighteja?
-Onko reitti kiivetty vaikka välillä kamat irtoilee ja tiput varmistuksiin, mutta jatkat toppiin?
-Missä menee hammerless ja clean teknon raja?
-Onko se cleania jos mikrokiilaa vähä avittaa vasaralla, entäs jos avittaa esim. kiila-avaimella?
-Jos joku kiipeää kliinisti jonkun reitin, onko se auttamatta clean-reitti jossa ei saa vasaroida?
-Jos reitti on kiivettu vapaasti, onko reitin kiipeäminen vasarateknona "luvallista"? Ja millä edellytyksillä?


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 Post subject: Re: Onko teknossa sääntöjä?
PostPosted: Sun Mar 30, 2014 20:13 
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Joined: Thu Jul 10, 2003 02:00
Posts: 368
Jos edelliset nousut on tehty cleanisti tai vapaasti, eettisesti kohteliainta on jättää vasara silloin pois. Kiilojen vasaroimiseen halkeamaan tarvitaan: vasaraa.


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 Post subject: Re: Onko teknossa sääntöjä?
PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 23:35 
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Joined: Tue Jun 05, 2012 21:26
Posts: 19
Mä näkisin, että:
-Reitti on kiivetty jos pääset toppiin, turasit matkalla tai et
-Klippaustikut ja kaikki sellanen puliveivaus on ihan ok, jos niistä on iloa
-Kliinissä ei käytetä vasaraa
-Kiila-avaimella auttaminen ei musta ole vasarointia, kunhan et lyö kiila-avainta vasaralla.
-Koukkuja ei laiteta vapaakiipeilyreittien otteiden taakse, sillä ne saattaa irrota
-Vapaakiivettyjen reittien teknoamisestahan on täällä ollut paljon itkua. Älä käytä vasaraa vapaakiipeilyreitillä Suomessa.


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