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Slouppi • View topic - Locals - boulderileffa

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Feb 09, 2004 11:14 
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Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2001 02:00
Posts: 333
Location: nybacka - uusmäki
Laitetaas mainos tänne. Leffa kuulostaa aika hyvältä jenkkien huutamiseen kyllästyneille.



NEWS:

The new bouldering movie »The Locals« is out now. It shows the
best bouldering venues across Europe (Austria, Italy, Slovenia, Switzerland,
Spain, France and England) and theirs local boulderers. Featureing
boulderers like: Mauro Calibani, Jacky Godoffe, Jorge Tost Garcia, Matthias
Muller, Jurij Golob, Danny Kendall, Michi Tresch, Urh Cehovin, Gerhard
Schaar, Roberto Zaghloul and many more. Also featureing problems graded up
to Font.8b+. 46minutes of non-stop bouldering action will help you getting
idea about your next bouldering mission to Europe. Produced by 3line digital
production & Dynobouldering. All infos about areas we have captured and
ordering details you can get on: http://locals.extremekanal.com/. Price is
21€ + post costs.

SAMPLE:

SPAIN
»EL ESCORIAL and LA PEDRIZA«



EL ESCORIAL
Going out from Madrid, take the A-6 (N-VI) towards Villalba or A Coruña,
you pass Villalba and after 45 or 50 kilometres you will see an exit to El
Escorial, that is the first exit after Villalba. You have taken the road
M-600, stay on this road until El Escorial and pass it taken always
direction Avila by the road M-505. After 2 or 3 kilometres on the M-505, you
can see an exit to “La Silla de Felipe II” . Arrive to the bar on the top
and go on until where the road finishes.

BEST TIME TO VISIT: From October to March.
TYPE OF ROCK: Granit


LA PEDRIZA
Going out from Madrid, take the road number M-607 towards Colmenar Viejo.
After this little town, take the road M-609, turn to the right and after a
few kilometres turn to the left by the road M-862 (smaller than the one
before), that arrives to the road M-608 turning to the left again. The M-608
arrives at Manzanares el Real and crossing it you will see on your right the
exit to “Parque Regional de La Pedriza”. It’s just 50km out of Mardrid.
BEST TIME TO VISIT: From October to March.
TYPE OF ROCK: Hard granite.

LA PEDRIZA 1.
»KLEM'S AREA«

1. UNNAMED
2. LA CAPERUZA sit 7b+
3. YELLOW UMBRELA sit 7c
4. UNNAMED sit 6c
5. WARMING UP PROBLEMS
6. SHOW ME THE WAY TO YOUR HEART 8A
7. UNNAMED 7c
8. UNNAMED 6c
9. MUDRA PROBLEM
10. EL MACETERO 7b

LA PEDRIZA 2.
» ROAD AREA «

1. AIR sit 7c
2. PROJECT
3. MANTEL sit 6b
4. UNNAMED 7b
5. LA MAMANDA PERDIDA 7b
6. 6b+
7. UNNAMED
8. PROJECT
9. FREDDY STYLE
10. FANATIC BOY 6a+
11. 5+
12. 5+

LA PEDRIZA 3.
»HERO'S AREA«

1. ESPECTRO
2. SPIDERMAN 7a
3. SUPER 6c
4. SUPER GIRL 6b
5. DOLTOR NO. 6c
6. THUNDER WOMAN 6b
7. warming up
8. warming up
9. warming up


SOME RECOMENDED PROBLEMS FROM „La Pedriza“


SPIDERMAN 7a Font. JUMP
a) Jump start to a good hold, take a left crimp, put the right hook and make
a slabby finish with very bad crimps and nuts. To go down use the tree on
your right.
b) Nuts and crimps.
c) Balance.
d) Scary problem.
1.- Jorge Tost.
2.- La Pedriza.
3.- Heroe´s area.
4.- Spiderman
5.- 7a Font.

LA CAPERUZA 7b+ Font. SITTING START (on The Locals movie)
a) Take 2 crimps with right hand on top and make a dynamic to take a good
sloper on the lip and then match (that´s the hardest move) go to the top
hole with a dynamic move.
b) Crimps and slopers.
c) Powerful moves.
d) First ascent: Klem Loskot (flash).
1.- Jorge Tost.
2.- La Pedriza.
3.- Klem´s area.
4.- La Caperuza
5.- 7b+ Font.

EL ESPECTRO PROJECT
a) Start with both hand in a sloper hold and take a sloper with left hand,
another sloper with right hand and go again with right hand to sloppy crimp.
And now I don´t know.
b) Slopers and long reach.
c) Powerful moves.
d) Project.
1.- Jorge Tost.
2.- La Pedriza.
3.- Heroe´s area.
4.- El Espectro
5.- ?

SHOW ME THE WAY TO YOUR HERAT 8a Font. (on The Locals movie)

a) Start in an undercut both hands and go to take a sloppy crimp with right
hand and match. Make another match over 2 crimps and make an exit over a
slabby.
b) Little sloppy crimps.
c) Klem did the first ascent with another secuence.
1.- Jorge Tost.
2.- La Pedriza.
3.- Klem´s area.
4.- Show me the way to your heart
5.- 8a Font.
6.- Very bad landing.

EL MACETERO 7b Font. (on The Locals movie)

a) It´s a jump from 2 metres. The only one thing you can do is to put up
your feet and jump! Jump!
b) Good holds.
c) A dynamic approach is needed.
1.- Jorge Tost.
2.- La Pedriza.
3.- Klem´s area.
4.- El Macetero
5.- 7b Font.
6.- Try left and both hands. It´s so nice.


AIR 7c Font. SITTING START (on The Locals movie)

a) It´s a steep of 4 metres with good crimps and the hardest move is taking
an undercut and going to a little crimp. Then you do it.
b) 5.
c) Good crimps.
d) Powerful and long reach.
1.- Jorge Tost.
2.- La Pedriza.
3.- Road area.
4.- Air – nº 1670.
5.- 7c Font.
6.- Unrepeated.

LA MAMADA PERDIDA 7b Font. SITTING START
a) I like to climb a dick! “The lost suck” is called.
b) Slopers.
c) Powerful and pumpy.
1.- Mario Lorenza.
2.- La Pedriza.
3.- Road area.
4.- La mamada perdida
5.- 7b Font.
6.- It´s easy to feel pain.
RÉQUIEM POR UN SUEÑO 7b+ Font. SITTING START
a) It´s a vertical problem where the first move is the most difficult
because you take a side pool and you should do a foot – hand. Then the rest
of the problem is easy.
b) Crimps and nuts.
c) Finger power.
d) Now the first hold is broken, it maybe a problem.
1.- Jorge Tost.
2.- La Pedriza.
3.- Lonely boulder.
4.- Réquiem por un sueño
5.- 7b+ Font.


SOME RECOMENDED PROBLEMS FROM „EL ESCORIAL“


EL SALVAJE VOLADOR 7c+ Font. SITTING START
a) Both hands in an undercut slope, go twice in a crack with left hand, and
go another time to take a bad sloper and then put right toe and match on the
slope, and then it´s easy.
b) Rounded holds.
c) Force and powerful.
d) First ascent by Roger Migga.
1.- Jorge Tost.
2.- El Escorial.
3.- La Colina.
4.- El salvaje volador
5.- 7c+ Font.
BOURBON STREET 7c+ Font.
a) Start with right hand on a very small undercut and with the left foot on
a good hold. Jump and take a sloppy pinch with your left hand. Match and
bring your right foot above a lip and then lock and take an intermediate
with your right hand. Then right hand on a sharp crimp. Keep on locking with
your left hand and go to the top with your right hand.
b) Crimps.
c) Fingers and long reach.
1.- Jorge Tost.
2.- El Escorial.
3.- Bourbon sector.
4.- Bourbon strret
5.- 7c+ Font.
6.- Sitting start is a project.


BAMBULE 7c Font. SITTING START (on The Locals movie)

a) Start on a good hold and put left hand on a sidepull and match. Long
reach to a crimp with your right hand and match. Finish up a slab.
b) Crimps and long reach.
c) Force.
1.- Miguel Ayllón.
2.- El Escorial.
3.- Unnamed sector.
4.- Bambulé
5.- 7c Font.

KAMIKACE 7c+ Font. (on The Locals movie)

a) Start with your left hand on a sidepull and heel and toe and then put
your right hand on a slope. Then match. Make a short traverse to the right
and then jump to the jug.
b) Dynamic movements.
c) Eye-hand coordination.
1.- Jorge Tost.
2.- El Escorial.
3.- Unnamed sector.
4.- Kamikace
5.- 7c+ Font.

KATAPULT 8a Font. (on The Locals movie)

a) Both hands on the undercut and fly to the top jug.
b) Dyno.
c) Power and coordination.
1.- Jorge Tost.
2.- El Escorial.
3.- Control cetaceos.
4.- Katapult
5.- 8a Font.
6.- Hard to maintain the body close to the rock.

EL DEL REFUGIO 7a+ Font.
a) Left hand on a small 2 finger pocket (undercut) and then jump with your
right hand to a good crimp. Then use the slopers on the lip to exit.
b) Slopers.
c) Mantel technique.
1.- Miguel Ayllón.
2.- El Escorial.
3.- Control cetáceos.
4.- El del refugio
5.- 7ª+ Font.

PARALITIC 7c Font. SITTING START
a) Start on a juge undercut and then go with your left hand to a small
crimp. Lock it and then finished up the slopers.
b) Crimps.
c) Finger power.
1.- Jorge Tost.
2.- El Escorial.
3.- La colina.
4.- Paralitic
5.- 7c Font.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 10, 2004 10:51 
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Joined: Fri May 10, 2002 02:00
Posts: 1001
Location: Imatra
... ja tiedoksi: DVD- versio tulee vasta maaliskuussa. muuten kyllä vaikuttaa vallan mainiolta.


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