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Slouppi • View topic - high ball problem

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Sat Sep 22, 2018 03:14

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2004 21:47 
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Joined: Fri Jan 16, 2004 02:00
Posts: 15
Location: England mostly
saw ´high ball problem in A-land video, the new one with ben moon backing off it numerous times...hmm bad show. Whem some one climbs it i have a name request-
"over the moon" ´
Jarmo fancy having a go?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Feb 24, 2004 22:25 
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Joined: Fri Feb 14, 2003 02:00
Posts: 301
Location: Espoo
No, not me.

But I sure would like to see someone
sending the route before the summer :smile:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Mar 12, 2004 21:40 
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Joined: Wed Apr 24, 2002 02:00
Posts: 96
I think there was too much hype around this problem in Å-video.
We tried it last summer and climbing was pretty crappy. The crux sure is "fucking scary" (quoting Ben Moon) but that´s all there is. Not really a classic.

Or maybe I´m just pissed of because I don´t have balls to send it :D
Well, name you suggested was pretty cool.


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2004 19:46 
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Joined: Fri Jan 16, 2004 02:00
Posts: 15
Location: England mostly
:oops: yep guess i was being a bit cheeky, as i havnt even seeen the problem in real life sooo perhaps shouldnt comment on others trying to climb it!!! im guessing i cannot even get to the crux


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Mar 13, 2004 20:42 
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Joined: Wed Apr 24, 2002 02:00
Posts: 96
Cheeky? njaaa!
Have you read these two reviews of "Å". If you can´t read finish, find someone to translate it for you. I totally agree with Olli P. and Antti L.
Could I do better film? propably not, but still...

Bouldering is often far more interesting to wach compared to roped climbing, but it would be nice to see finish "ropevideo" (OK! there was Crux, but another one).
Especially easy "ropeclimbing" is like waching paint drying, but is someone really willing to climb finish 8a´s and b´s just for a film.
It might be hard to motivate people to do route´s near their redpoint-limit for your "new filmproject". I´ve seen first ascent of finnish 8a on video and I was very impressed... Please! Make more films.
I´m too lazy to even try :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 14:35 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Joonas wrote:
Especially easy "ropeclimbing" is like waching paint drying, but is someone really willing to climb finish 8a´s and b´s just for a film.


It is only boring if you get good climbers to climb easy routes - use crap climbers and it adds far more spice. I have been known to go up and down, sweat, swear, shake (starting in the legs but going through the whole body) scream and finally fall off. All on a 5+. That's gotta be more amusing to watch than skinny dudes cruising hasn't it?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 15, 2004 14:37 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
p.s. Skinny dudes - I meant cruising routes. Not the other type involving public toilets... although if that is your thing it might be much more interesting to watch on video. :-?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2004 15:32 
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Joined: Wed Apr 24, 2002 02:00
Posts: 96
Good idea! New Finnish climbingfilm:
"CRAP CLIMBERS: How to climb your first 4-"

Coming soon!


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2004 14:42 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Joonas wrote:
Good idea! New Finnish climbingfilm:
"CRAP CLIMBERS: How to climb your first 4-"

Coming soon!


You'd have to find a Finnish 4- first! Are there any? I don't think I've found any routes here sub 4+, which makes me wonder how they came up with grading system in the first place. :lol:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2004 15:46 
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Joined: Wed Jun 12, 2002 02:00
Posts: 58
Location: Helsinki
There are a lot of high (yeah, right) quality 3+ and 4- trad routes in Finland. They are usually wet and slippery and covered with flora of all kind. Climbing these routes is always very unrewarding. :)


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2004 18:01 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Marko wrote:
There are a lot of high (yeah, right) quality 3+ and 4- trad routes in Finland. They are usually wet and slippery and covered with flora of all kind. Climbing these routes is always very unrewarding. :)


You Finns clearly never had the "correct" apprenticeship to enjoy such delights. There are hundreds of British V. Diffs, often chimneys, normally wet and invariably full of flora and fauna. Many get three stars in the guide books. Mainly first climbed back in the Victorian-era which probably explains a lot.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 17, 2004 21:42 
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Joined: Fri Jan 16, 2004 02:00
Posts: 15
Location: England mostly
Hahah thats why brits cant climb so hard/ they mess around on trad r=terain for ages, thats what i did, telling myself it was REAL climbing!
I reckon thats also why all the Finns ive met boulder to about font 8a. theyve all only been climbing for a year as well !!! jus get stuck into the hard stuff early on eg Nalle


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2004 11:39 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
curly ben wrote:
Hahah thats why brits cant climb so hard/ they mess around on trad r=terain for ages, thats what i did, telling myself it was REAL climbing!


In defence of my (our?) nation: Malcom Smith, Andy Earl, Steve Dunning, Steve Mclure - they are all, like, quite strong. :wink:

Perhaps we shouldn't get into the what is "real" climbing as it tends to degenerate into willy-waving quite quickly. Real climbing is whatever type of climbing you like doing.

Except top-roping, obviously. :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 18, 2004 14:32 
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Joined: Fri Jan 16, 2004 02:00
Posts: 15
Location: England mostly
:D Yep those boys are super strong- only messing bout the brit comment- everyone knows we're as hard as nails!! interéstingly have you seen Malcom Smith climbing dreamtime? theres a link on UKbouldering thread, not a great vid but he seems to stroll alng/up it, immense stuff!


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 19, 2004 10:35 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
curly ben wrote:
:D Yep those boys are super strong- only messing bout the brit comment- everyone knows we're as hard as nails!! interéstingly have you seen Malcom Smith climbing dreamtime? theres a link on UKbouldering thread, not a great vid but he seems to stroll alng/up it, immense stuff!


I think you have to climb at least V3 before you are allowed even to click on to UKBouldering (or have a Prana beanie and look good with your top off) and as I fit neither of these categories, I haven't seen the vid.

I actually have a pair of Ronhills (from the early 90s I hasten to add) but that's probably all you need to know. :lol:


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