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Slouppi • View topic - New bouldering area_Vessölandet

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Thu Nov 15, 2018 15:07

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 Post subject: New bouldering area_Vessölandet
PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2004 08:24 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2002 02:00
Posts: 86
Location: Grani
Hello,
a new bouldering area has been opened in Vessölandet just south from Porvoo. The topo should be available on slouppi.net, but can also be found on:
http://koti.welho.com/evahtola/
There are many open projects to climb in a nice environment under 1h from helsinki, espeically harder ones from 6b+ ->

Samma på finska: Käykää tutustumassa, blokeista löytyy släbiä, vertikaalia, hänkkii, you name it. Harja kannattaa ottaa mukaan jos mielii vääntää niitä projekteja.
Sitäpaitsi koko Vessölandet on ihan täynnä kiviä, tosin kiven laatu on muutamassa paikassa aika kehno.
HYVÄÄ BOULDERKEVÄTTÄ!
t
Erik


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 Post subject: Description
PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2004 08:28 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2002 02:00
Posts: 86
Location: Grani
(copy-pasted from the topo)
Description:
A nice and peaceful area near a sand quarry (Lohja Rudus) and a campsite/caravan park in the Porvoo archipelago. Anders Lindholm and Erik
Vahtola found this place in 2003 after enthusiastic searching for boulders on the island of Vessölandet near Porvoo. The quarry area features quality
slab bouldering, vertical highballs, overhangs and arêtes. The types of holds vary from smooth slopers to crimps and pinches. Within one-hour drive
from Helsinki, 15mins from Porvoo, and a great deal of further potential (especially in the grades above 6b) the area is definitely worth a visit. This
topo only covers a part of the boulders at Vessölandet. All the projects on this topo are free for anybody to climb. Just let us know (email addresses
on front page) if you did it, name it, grade it and we’ll add it to this topo, also feel free to comment on the existing grades.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2004 09:31 
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Joined: Mon Dec 24, 2001 02:00
Posts: 298
Location: One Pint
Huomasin noista kuvista, että olette käyneet Skrubbössa. Käyttekö usein siellä? Me käytiin siellä myös muutama kerta viime kesänä, kaikin puolin mainio paikka. Hyvää meren hiomaa kiveä ja hienot maisemat.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2004 09:40 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2002 02:00
Posts: 86
Location: Grani
Jep,
Skrubbössä on 2 viime kesän aikana tullut käytyä muutaman kerran, varmaan taas tänä kesänä tulee käytyä kunhan vene laitetaan veteen. Mainittavan arvoisia ovat ne muutamat hienot släbilt (korkeutta parhaimmllaan n. 7m) ja sitten siellä on pari ihan h*ton tiukkaa kattoreittiä. Eikä tarvi putsata, meren ja tuulen tehtyä työt :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2004 11:02 
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Joined: Wed Oct 15, 2003 02:00
Posts: 54
Location: Espoo
Huomasin kuvagalleriasta että siinä oli boulderkuva Kauniaisista, missä päin se on?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Apr 22, 2004 11:14 
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Joined: Tue Jan 15, 2002 02:00
Posts: 102
Location: Helsinki
hyvää työtä äijät!


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 27, 2004 08:01 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2002 02:00
Posts: 86
Location: Grani
Moi,
topon eka bugi: mun meiliosoite on päin honkia, pitäisi olla:
Erkke_1 at hotmail.com
sinne tai muiden jätkien osoitteisiin voi lähettää palautetta paikasta, greideistä, ym. ym.
Näin..
Erik


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2004 11:09 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Went to Vessölandet on saturday, its a really nice place. I have some photos I can send to Slouppi. Siderhouse Rulez is a really excellent problem and for some reason feels scarily high when you are on it, but not whilst looking from the ground?! :-? Is the only way down from the Boss boulder to down climb Fruit? That is what I did and it was as - if not more scary - than going up Siderhouse!

I'm rubbish at bouldering grades as I don't really get them, but some of the problems with similar grades felt very much harder than others.

For anyone going, take a wire brush (wire brushes are OK on granite aren't they?) as there is a lot of lichen on the boulders. Also anyone who smokes be really careful, the whole area is very dry and a forest fire waiting to happen.

Its a lovely spot. Thanks for the topo guys. Good work.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2004 15:04 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 02:00
Posts: 75
[quote="Toby"]"Went to Vessölandet on Saturday, its a really nice place." Cheers, its nice that people are trying the place out.

"Is the only way down from the Boss boulder to down climb Fruit? That is what I did and it was as - if not more scary - than going up Siderhouse!"
I can believe it was!, in the past we have descended down the back left corner as you climb up Siderhouse using the big beech tree for help down the last meter (i.e. the corner of the impossible wall and problem 36)

"I'm rubbish at bouldering grades as I don't really get them, but some of the problems with similar grades felt very much harder than others" Lets us know which problems, any feedback is appreciated since it helps improve the topo for others.

"Wire brushes are OK on granite aren't they?" I hope so otherwise we (the developers) are going to climbing hell (i.e. Holland :wink: ).

"Also anyone who smokes be really careful, the whole area is very dry and a forest fire waiting to happen". Very good point.

Cheers,
Jody

Pictures are always welcome, I ( and Erkke and Anders) would be very interested in seeing them at least.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2004 15:23 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Jody wrote:
"Is the only way down from the Boss boulder to down climb Fruit? That is what I did and it was as - if not more scary - than going up Siderhouse!"
I can believe it was!, in the past we have descended down the back left corner as you climb up Siderhouse using the big beech tree for help down the last meter (i.e. the corner of the impossible wall and problem 36)


Hmmm, it was definitely the far left side of the Siderhouse Slab that I came down (not using the arete) which I think is where fruit goes. There is a tiny tree on a small ledge once you get down to that its OK, but crimping on dirty holds as I tried to stretch down from to it was ...ummm... amusing. I didn't see a big tree, perhaps I just didn't explore very well on the top of the boulder. The "good break" near the top of Siderhouse was also full of pine needles and dirt as well, making the top out quite exciting!

Good effort on Painted Slab, I managed one of lines towards the righthand end, but the main line up from the painted hand spat me off numerous times.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon May 03, 2004 15:41 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 02:00
Posts: 75
Toby wrote:
Hmmm, it was definitely the far left side of the Siderhouse Slab that I came down (not using the arete) which I think is where fruit goes. There is a tiny tree on a small ledge once you get down to that its OK, but crimping on dirty holds as I tried to stretch down from to it was ...ummm... amusing. I didn't see a big tree, perhaps I just didn't explore very well on the top of the boulder


Sorry I don’t think I explained it very clearly before, I meant the opposite left corner from the Siderhouse wall. If you look at the topo you should see a black circle where the impossible wall and the wall facing the moose boulder meet, this is the beech tree that is the way down.

Toby wrote:
The "good break" near the top of Siderhouse was also full of pine needles and dirt as well, making the top out quite exciting!


Originally the break was clean but we threw in some dirt to increase the excitement. :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2004 14:03 
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2001 02:00
Posts: 129
Location: Porvoo
Hmm?

Here is a picture I took last summer pretty near Vessölandet, I think. I spotted the block during a boat trip last summer. As I am not that familiar with the geography of the area so I am not sure whether this is on an island or on the mainland?

But at least the block is quite near the "Vessölandet" -area.

Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2004 15:40 
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Joined: Wed Dec 19, 2001 02:00
Posts: 333
Location: nybacka - uusmäki
muistatko mikael olisko jossain näillä seuduilla?

Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2004 17:44 
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Joined: Fri Dec 21, 2001 02:00
Posts: 129
Location: Porvoo
samppa wrote:
muistatko mikael olisko jossain näillä seuduilla?


Jaa-a, kun tietaisi ??? Mun pitaa vahan kaivaa flashmuistia, kattoo onko kaikki tieto sielta havinnyt vai ei, ja tutkia tuota karttaa vahan enemman illalla, nyt juuri ei pysty. Ehka ma sit voin maarittaa murikan koordinaatit tarkemmin ...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 05, 2004 21:50 
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Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2002 02:00
Posts: 43
Location: Helsinki
Loistava!

Mulla on lande noilla kulmilla, joten voin käydä kattomassa mikäli jonkun näköiset kordinaatit löytyy... Vessölandetin boulderit me alunperin löydettiin tutkimalla vanhaa merikarttaa mökin seinällä (jostain 1920 luvulta) jossa isoin boulderi oli merkitty sanalla "Jättekastet". Kuvassa oleva järkäle saattaisi käydä samankaltaisella merkinnällä.

-Andy


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