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Slouppi • View topic - Liljendalissa Kaappihomon vieressä...

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Thu Sep 20, 2018 14:15

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 Post subject: Liljendalissa Kaappihomon vieressä...
PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2004 09:23 
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 02:00
Posts: 185
Location: Helsinki
Oltiin eilen Liljendalissa ja kiivettiin Kaappihomon vasemmalle puolelle uusi reitti. Ei ainakaan ollut mitään kiipeilyn jälkia ja yläosa ihan putsaamaton.

Lähtee siitä törröttävän kiven liuskan päältä ja kaartaa selkeitä otteita oikelle topittaen kiven oikeaan yläkulmaan.

Annettiin nimeksi "Club Confidential". Greidistä en tällä kokemuksella osaa sanoa...ei kovin vaikea!?!?

Kokeilkaa ja kertokaa...myös jos on kiivetty aiemmin!?

-Kalle


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2004 13:45 
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Joined: Wed May 14, 2003 02:00
Posts: 115
Location: Hki 93
Jep, kokeiltu on. Onko lähtöotteet määritelty? Ja lähtö oli kiven päältä(kö)? Hyvän version saa myös, kun ottaa lähtöotteet ylempää ja jättää kiven käyttämättä...

Pari muuta reittiä, variaatioita tosin. Petsopastan alku (muuten sais omat reititkin, mutta jäävät lyhyiksi) ja helpompi versio jatkuu sitä ilmiselvää halkeamaa (jossa ylhäällä "kasvaa"/törröttää se kuiva mänty) ylös oikealle ja puun jälkeen toppaus hyvillä otteilla. Vaikeampi versio, jossa ideaa ehkä vähän enemmän, jatkuu samaa linjaa, jossa Petsopastan alkuotteet, oikealle päätyen ilmiselvään jumalattoman isoon kahvaan, jonka jälkeen toppaus. Puun ja kiven välistä mahtuu kyllä...

Onko kiivetty aikaisemmin? Kivi oli ainakin noilta osin putsaamatta.

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riku@


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2004 14:49 
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Joined: Wed May 14, 2003 02:00
Posts: 115
Location: Hki 93
Hups...tulihan kirjoitettua tökerön kuuloinen viesti. Siis otetaan uudestaan, niin tarkoitukseni ilmenee paremmin: eli kokeiltu on, ihan jees. Lähtöotteet ei oikein auenneet, jos ne oli ne, joissa oli hitosti mankkaa, niin silloin ei oikein löytynyt jaloille otteita, ellei tarkoitus ole lähteä jalka kiven (siis sen liuskan tai vast.) päällä, oliko näin alkuperäinen idea? Kun heittää jalan feissille, niin lähtöotteet nousi luonnostaan ylemmäs, mutta sehän on vaan omaa heikkoutta...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2004 08:48 
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Joined: Wed Sep 04, 2002 02:00
Posts: 185
Location: Helsinki
Alotus otteet oli oikealle kädelle se pieni "nypykkä" ja vasemalle pieni lista. Toisen jalan saa sellaselle pienelle otteelle ja eka muuvi onkin veto ylä vasemmalle olevaan grimppiin! Ihan ei ole perse maassa alotuksessa ja viereinen kiven liuska ei tietenkään ole mukana. Alotus muuvi menee kyllä siihen suuntaan ettei siihen ole mielestäni vaaraa pudota!?

Kiva että joku kiipesi! :)


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