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Slouppi • View topic - Possible new route at Nuuksio

Slouppi

Rock climbing and Bouldering in Finland
It is currently Wed Sep 19, 2018 09:49

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 Post subject: Possible new route at Nuuksio
PostPosted: Thu Aug 05, 2004 12:41 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 02:00
Posts: 75
Hei,

While at Nuuksio a couple of months ago I cleaned a put up what could be a new route (i.e. if nobody else has climbed it) on the right hand side of the crag next to Indiana Jones.

The traditional route starts right of Indiana and continues up the slab to where it ends. The route continues straight up to the vertical crack that lies directly above the head ( the crack lies in a slabby V corner) where the vertical/slighty overhanging block is reached. Traverse right a metre from the crack along the slab and go straight up the corner that makes up the right hand side of the block to the top and a big tree (right of the lower of chain).

The route can be started a couple of metres right of the start for indiana jones if this route is in use.

The route is of one star quality and around the 5- grade and fairly well protected with nuts.

Sorry if I am claiming somebody elses route but the line did require a fair amount of cleaning (especailly the top) and hence it looked untouched.

Cheers,
Jody


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 06, 2004 13:07 
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 02:00
Posts: 216
Location: Vantaa
Do you start up the groove just to the right of the 'arete' with the first two bolts of Indiana Jones in? I've climbed a line many times that starts up that way but then by a couple of moves to the left crosses IJ to finish as for Scifi in the easy grooves to left of IJ. It sounds like your line carries on straight up where I have gone left?

I've often wondered why that line was never on a topo (it wasn't on the original Mountainshop topo from the mid 90s as I guess before anyone put any bolts in that would have been one of the first lines to go on the cliff... There is also another line left from Scifi that starts where Jokisen Eväät starts and then goes up to the slightly unnerving flake. It isn't marked on any of the topos either. If you climb the left crack of the flake for this route, and the right side for scifi you actually have two different 5-s that only share the last few moves


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 09, 2004 12:25 
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Joined: Fri Jan 25, 2002 02:00
Posts: 86
Location: Grani
Toby wrote:
Do you start up the groove just to the right of the 'arete' with the first two bolts of Indiana Jones in? I've climbed a line many times that starts up that way but then by a couple of moves to the left crosses IJ to finish as for Scifi in the easy grooves to left of IJ. It sounds like your line carries on straight up where I have gone left?


The route actually carries on more and more to the right hand side of I.J. the higher you get, and tops out on the right side of the last vertical "bulge".. (Jody: Correct me if im wrong )
/e


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Aug 16, 2004 09:31 
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 02:00
Posts: 75
Erkke wrote:
The route actually carries on more and more to the right hand side of I.J. the higher you get, and tops out on the right side of the last vertical "bulge".. (Jody: Correct me if im wrong )
/e


You are spot on. It does not cross IJ, rather it goes straight up from the top of the slab and around the right side of the bulge. You can use the first two bolts of IJ or you can start two metres to the right up a shallow corner.

Cheers,
Jody


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